Keep putting in your time, you are well on your way.

And this is the exact reason I only braze now! I noticed over the years systems I soldiered would start leaking do to joints cracking! Good call on your future jobs as well you are a smart young tech your doing well keep it up! As a young tech start doing things to save your back as well I was a idiot at your age thinking I could lift and move anything and now at 38 i pay for it everyday!

Stay bright 8 solder

Also when brazing try to heat the pipe first not the socket, concentrate your flame more on pipe and move back to socket

probably too wide a gap between copper and brass due to the bending and that silver solder will not bridge gaps. the tubing and fitting really need to be tight fitting all around the full depth. it could possibly be a lack of flux or not enough heat at top for the silver to flow on original sweat. all the low lead brass is a pain in the hind quarters, you pretty much have to get the pipe blazing hot to get heat up into the socket, then still work the flame around the whole brass fitting to get good flow. I really hate the junk. ** seeing 5:21 it looks like there's a gap right before you brazed, so the silver solder failure probably was the pipe too loose in the socket. if you can see a gap or it rocks around it's too loose for silver solder. try expanding the pipe slightly to make it very tight or just braze those ones. 🤔

I got 5 years and you did it faster than me bud lol

Newly subscribed…. Looking forward to more videos!

When your pulling the vacuum from both side like that your not seeing a true vacuum. I usually pull down to 1200 - 1000. Then Isolate the side with the gauge. Then continue to pull down to 500 or lower. This way the gauge is not being influenced by the pump. I like to put my gauge on the liquid side so after gauge isolation you are still vacuuming on the larger pipe

I know you like to weigh in but in my experience you have to fine tune charge any way. I would have had you close valves and resolder vacuum, charge, get it running and top it off

This speaks volumes about your character. Those who can admit and correct, get better. Those who hide do not. Great work.

I spent 17 1/2 years in a condenser manufacturing plant and about 14 years of that was brazing. We used twin-tip torches with oxygen and natural gas to braze. My advice is to get some copper fittings and tubing and practice. Your flame was too small and broad; it should have a nice pointed neutral flame and braze at the end of that blue flame tip. In brazing, the alloy will go toward the heat. Move the flame around the joint to heat the whole joint to about a dull red then apply the alloy at the top, and swing the heat around to under the joint to pull the alloy. Keep most of the heat on the outer fitting and not much on the tubing. Oxy-acetylene will be your best rig for brazing. I have brazed copper-to-copper, copper-to-brass, and copper-to-steel; only copper-to-copper does not need flux if the copper is clean and bright. Only the alloy in the joint is going to do any good, the alloy on the outside is wasted. When you heated the gas line and pulled it apart, the area that was not covered is where the leak was, it did not seal when you originally did it. Please practice brazing as soldering freon joints is not a good way to connect tubing joints in a freon system; the pressures are too high for solder joints. I did online repairs on all 5 of our lines; with our tips, I did not need to protect the valves(good insurance though). Something to remember; the longer a system has freon in it, the longer it will take to pull a vacuum on the system. Also remember, brazing is not hard if you keep the joints clean and practice.

with soldering, prep is EVERYTHING!! i use a thin coat of tinning flux on both pieces, use silver solder and have never had a leak. steve lav has been soldering for 35+ yrs and i picked up little tricks just watching his vids. during this time of year, i wear long johns everyday, all day. rather be a little warm than cold. "better to have it and not need it than need it and not have it." i always have extra outer layers with and depending on what im doing, a extra shirt and hoodie. nothing worse than being cold AND wet when your outside in the winter. dont be so hard on yourself, give yourself some credit. youre doing a great job for this early in your career. learn from everyone and then use what works best for you. cant have too much knowledge about your trade.

Can you see why your micron gauge has false readings, hou have the hose and vacuum line on the same line try a set up with the micron gauge on the total opposite side only. The systems you guys put in don't need double vacuum lines the vacuum process is still fast with one hose ! KISS! VACUUM CRAP ON THE SUCTION, MICRON ON THE LIQUID ALONE!!! TRUE READINGS AND INSTANT LEAK DETECTION. 🍺🍺🍺🥃🥃 STAY SAFE!

Hey mate, key to brazing copper is get it really hot prior to laying any silver solder on, the heat in the copper is what you want to do the work not the flame on the silver Lay silver on to early you won’t get it in the join and the silver will boil on the surface if you try to sweat it in after

I'm a retired plumber and have done thousands of these joints. I was shown a technique where you flux the joint, heat it evenly (socket and pipe) then remove the flame and apply the rod to the joint and allow the heat of the pipe melt the rod not the flame. Give it a try sometime. All the best.

If ya just braze it from the beginning like the manufacturer said to, you wouldn’t be repairing leaks caused by not enough flux.

Valve it off, pump it down to 5psi, Wrap the valve, fix the weld, pull a vac, release charge, add if needed. Done.

Sticking with staybrite.

Call back are never fun but I’m glade to see you owned it and took care of the customer 💯

When I pull vacuums, I put my gauge on my high side core tool side port, and then a hose to the low side core tool port and hook it up to the tank and pull everything up to the port on the tank into a vacuum and it ensures that I don’t get anything but refr when I’m ready to charge

You did a very professional install on that unit and a professional repair. And it all turned out great at the end. Another quality job D.C. And I agree with you 100% on brazing right way to go.👍👍👍

Good find and repair. I never liked turbo torches always takes too long for braze to flow imo. Use the regular oxy acetylene and you’ll be in that weld for less than half that time.

Nice job! Everyone makes mistakes. Tip for you: Lose those gloves. They will melt to your hands.

I don't get the Stay-brite 8 fad, takes absolutely minimal additional time to hook up a nitro tank and go at it with an oxy/acetylene torch. You have to have the nitro tank to do a pressure test anyways! Sand the pipe and go! No flux, no cleaning fittings like your prepping a plumbing joint. To each their own! Enjoy the videos though.

I always braze at service valves and use staybrite 8 everywhere else.

oh no, your killing it buddy for your age your an amazing tech.

The hottest part of the flame is the tips of the tree bright flames. You are holding the torch a bit to close. Keep up the good work.

What did you solder that with originally was it regular plumbing solder or did you use stay-brite 8? It makes a big differance and I'll be honest I have soldered more thana few brass body TXVs on self contained refrigerantors just because its a lot easier when your in a tight space and it has always been fine, however I wouldn't have soldered those service valves because there is not much reason to, I only solder if brazing is going to pose some kind of problem (such as laying on my back inside a single door undercounter refrigerantor 10 inches from my face). Also I would have gotten that joint hotter, you will get better penetration into the joint, if you did use stay-bright 8 heat might have been your problem don't be afraid to get that pipe hot, I have seen a lot of newer techs have a problem of being afraid they are going to melt things and not getting enough heat to make a strong joint, also put your flame more on the joint (where the pipe overlaps) than on the seam, it will help draw the braze into the joint through capilary action. Your doing good though, take my criticism as a way to improve because I absolutly am not trying to talk down on you, keep trying your best and improving and you will do great.

You just didn't get enough solder in the joint. Don't let this deter you for using the StayBrite 8.

yea, it happens to all of us! But good analysis of why the joint failed and fix after. BTW - I really like the BT interface and the Carrier Service Tech app so I can read pressures, Current, etc. without even hooking up gauges. Thanks for posting!

16 lbs . Ouch.

Brazing is a skill that you can practice with scrap copper and fittings in the shop when you aren’t trying to make a repair or doing a new installation. Start with clean connections and don’t over heat or overfill the joints. You’ll become great at it because you’re a craftsman!

I hope MIKEY paid you well for fixing his MISTAKE!

Good job man, we’ve all done it once or twice. Brazing is the way to go though on heat pumps

Hey Daniel, get a charging jacket. It's just a heated jacket u can wrap around your tank. It sounded like your PSI during brazing was way too high. double check that because it could prevent the solder or brazing rod from being pulled into the hub of the fitting if too much internal pressure.

Those units typically come with a low pressure switch l, I doubt the system went into a vacuum.

Hey man it happens! All you can do is practice , great thinking on immediately checking your brazing connections. At least you fixed the error & onto the next one!

Oxy acetylene is the way to go.

happens to the best of us. ive always just used a little more and rounded my solder joint just to be safe. then pressure check with nitrogen at 300psi....lgood video bro

Get rid of the Turbo. You will ruin the service valves on suction lines trying to get the joint hot enough to braze. Learn how to braze with an Oxy/Acetylene torch

It’s not the solder. I braze all the time. It has happened to me too. Good job

Callbacks build character….you are professional. I’d do some practice solder joints at the shop and then unsolder and pull them apart and do a close examination. Knowledge is power!

Who did that ugly weld? Why even take chances that weld will hold?

Always bring your heat back and fill fitting and cap

Did that leak not show up on the micron decay?

Daniel Keep the torch on the bottom at the start and touch the top and when it starts melting then work the solder around to the bottom Once your getting flow you can pull the tierce away ever so slightly so you don’t over heat the solder & keep the torch back on the swedged part And in this vid your resolder joints are much better…..see how they have a nice shoulder that’s perfect but some guys will tell you it’s to much but it will hold forever. You must have a shoulder for high pressure industrial refridgerant brazing so in residential you can do it as well without wasting shoulder Also when you pressure test using a digital pressure gauge or digital gauges with digital pressure gauge you will see leaks much quicker or even small leaks. And of course use soap etc You should never lay you hose ends on the ground too bro

It happens to the best of us ! What spray is the one you used at the beginning? I like it better thank carrying a big spray bottle 💯

Keep up the good work brother. Being doing Commercial HVACR for 5 years now and you never stop learning. I agree with everyone else as well with the soldering a a clean pipe and flux is your best friend. I prefer brazing after I have practiced it. Heats up quicker and you can work the solder around much easier even without flux. Just need more heat control with it👍

We’ve all had leaks and we learned from them

Great fix daniel

Nice repair, maybe keep the flame on the fitting longer and walk it around to really pull that braze in to avoid a cold joint. It will be easier to do with an oxy/acet kit where you can easier pin point the heat. I think the system will be good to go, lp switch opened and you still had pressure when you arrived. I installed a few of those infinity systems when they first came out, nice but pricey lol.

I agree with a bunch of the comments, I prefer Oxy Actylene Torch to Braze. I know Mike prefers the Solder, I have not tried that on Commercial work. I prefer Braze, Silver Solder on TXV and Steel to Copper. Leaks will happen. Anyone that says they never had a leak is either a liar or never brazed before. The important part is learning how to prevent as many leaks as possible. Good Job Daniel.

nice job. i would've tried to get all that solder off before i brazed. the braze runs from the solder sometimes. always better with a clean slate. also having done hundreds of carriers. theres always oil from the factory in those condenser stubs. i always wipe the inside with a rag really good then clean with a wire brush before brazing. great job though man. happens to us all

I would have also checked and braze the evaporator solder as well. So far I only like the press fit and brazing. Anything else I would hesitant

good job Daniel, for sure time to get some oxy and ace torches. a little silver is the best at joints like that and good heat on the joint. you'll find its easier with oxy/ace torches.

The prep work for Staybrite is HUGE. Either you didn't use enough flux (not much is needed), transferred oil from your hand to the pipe or didn't use enough soldier. 3/4" pipe needs 3/4" of soldier melted in the joint. My guess is you had a cold joint or not enough soldier.

I’ve been there too!!! I only do brazing oxy acetylene and have good success with it!!! Keep it up!!

Daniel, you can have pinholes or small leaks in brazed or soldered joints. Don't be so quick to dump Staybrite 8. We all have some callbacks, they are learning opportunities.

Good repair. I’ve seen braze joints with silver that would not really pass a visual/cosmetic test. But hold up for decades. I’d say don’t be too conservative when it comes to laying the silver down, Better to have too much than not enough. I’ve only brazed my condensers / Air-handlers and haven’t had issues. Enjoy the brazing

Leaks happen. Not a tech or installer out there that hasn't had them. Important part is to own up to it and learn from it.

That means that flux in that spot was not present, with Staybrite you have to really flux it well

This is one of the hazards of the job. I'm a copier technician and while we don't deal with leaky solder/ braze joints, we deal with things that apply to copiers. I had a machine once that had a bad foam toner supply roller and I rebuilt it and put it back in the machine and all seemed to be functioning like it should. Got a call back about an hour later customer said toner was literally everywhere in their office. Long story short, I had a seal that I had replaced but didn't catch th

You will do fine Daniel, I think you are great. Mike did the right thing in hiring you. You are a definite an asset to his company.

What watch do you have?

For not brazing in a while, ya did a great job. Nice video today, thanks for the entertainment!

Staybright 8 dosent work good if there are little gaps in the joints

I prefer oxy/acetylene when brazing. It heats the copper much faster so there is less heat put into the surrounding components. And next time just heat the solder up and then wipe it with a dry rag while fluid and then clean up with sand cloth, and sacrifice a fitting brush and cut it and put it in your drill to clean the fitting, it will be much easier to braze if you do. Other than that practice makes progress

you dont use enough solder, if its 7/8" pipe you need to use at least 7/8" of solder, just a rule of thumb

Just a recommendation, after you finish doing any kind of brazing work, and new install, before you dump refrigerant in you probably should do a nitrogen pressure test to find leaks just in case, you have and spray down the joints with soapy bubbles

Brazing for me all day. I tried that solder .

When brazing wear leather gloves...the rubber gloves can catch on fire and stick to your skin .Great work

What made you switch to solder/ sty bright in the first place?

Brazing is the way to go.. pressures too high for solder.

#teambrazealwayz🤣

Daniel all you have to do is re sauter that joint and you wouldn't have to do the amazing you do good solving worked all you have to do Be confident

I really hope this doesn't dissuade you from using StayBrite again. It is rare that it happens. Same could have happen on a braze

Absolutely sucks after a good decay test. Pressures were steady, and yet the StayBrite joint failed 🤦🏻‍♂️🤦🏻‍♂️🤦🏻‍♂️. I’m thinking you are on the right track going back to brazing again, even though it can take longer…it beats call backs and lost 💰💰 in the long run Daniel 🤷‍♂️ Gotta say the joint looks much better now. Practice makes perfect, you need to get back in the game again, that’s all…👍👍

We’ll blame this one on Peter lol

Great job Daniel keep up the good work. Hey things do happen important thing is you made it right?

With an Oxy act rig, this will be a lot easier. You can also use tinning flux to clean the copper after the sand cloth if necessary, it wasn't here.

“Your best teacher is your last mistake”

It looked like the pipe didn’t perfectly fit the valve in that case braze will fill a gap solder could never fill. Gotta love ancient hydrotherm maintenance, if I can I tell ‘em don’t waste your money changing the oil on a 400,000 mile car and just buy a new one.

Don't be hard on yourself you do great work. Brazing in an art you will get it... Definitely recommend oxyacetylene to braze...

Don't beat yourself up bud it happens even to the best of them by the looks of the pipe seem to not be clean right or no flux even so it happens

When you guys did the initial install, were the inside of the service valve and line set pipes sanded and fluxed before the Staybrite 8 was added to join the pipes at the outdoor unit? You'll get better. Just remember that it's all about preparing the pipe! 🤙

First off- Great job owning the mistake- You are a better tech now because of it. I have to ask, wouldn't this have been discovered (before dumping the charge) if you nitrogen tested up to nameplate psi?

Daniel you can't predict everything things like this happen shit happens

It happens and you will be a better tech for it. Question, who eats the cost of the refrigerant Mikey Pipes or you? Thanks for sharing your work and watching you grow!

Did you install this or just fixing it?

How about those quick connect fittings no more brazing. Lol

I do enjoy ur content Daniel but damn I thought I was watching Peter braze! Practice at the shop cuz that was top notch apprentice brazing! Love ur stuff tho

Is there flux inside that rod ? You need a clean area and plenty of flux.

Did you use Stay Brite 8 ?

Man I like ur videos bro but come on I always braze so who would solder on refrigerant and especially r410 with high pressure but like I said I like ur videos but this one I don’t like

Not the fault of the product. Fault of the applicator. You didn't prep the pipes right, didn't push enough solder. Also did you use the correct flux? I also guess your decay test needs some improvement. Your a good kid. 👍🏻

Hmm Danielson No Flux???

Looks like you are holding the flame to close to the solder and joint which causes bubbles ...the flame should be so that it surrounds the pipe and makes the solder suck in the joint as you direct the flame . No one perfect but great job repairing.

You are a great tech but son you need to learn what silfos is and how to apply it’s not solder

Daniel What do you use to make your KZfaq thumbnails?

That leaking braze looks beautiful but as a person who has sweated a billion service valves let me tell you,,,,, build up some solder,, don't make it beautiful make it heavy duty...