Thank you!

Well, when you do things, something still happens.

Thank you. And good luck to you in making rustic furniture.

Yeahhh, still .. just the simple king.

Olá Adelar. Não fiz nenhum curso. A própria vida ensina.

Thanks Carl. I do everything with one finish. In half of the cases, I don't know who buys my furniture and where he uses it. And in fact, both Teak Oil and Danish Oil are designed for outdoor use, but once a year, outdoor furniture has to be oiled. I always tell my customers that.

@@udoaas2466 Thank You ... I am using both on the furniture I am starting to make for my home. Love your videos and music.

@@carlwilliams6347 Nice. The difference between Teak oil and Danish oil is that Teak oil can be applied in abundance, even from the hose like i do, the excess will drain away, only the excess from horizontal surfaces must be wiped off. However, Danish Oil should be applied immediately in a thin layer. I put Danish Oil with cloth.

Thanks George. Best wishes to you and your daughters as well. I know you cherish the present moment. Yes, I made a little joke with oiling. Probably difficult for a child to understand. Well, that's life, don't get too serious about it.

It seems to me that what I do is just a waste of time for the dog. Wax is oil wax, yes quite common. and oil .. he-hee!

@@udoaas2466 what kind of oil? Is it linseed ? You have a rectangular bath with foot powered pump, feedet of bath? What wax you use? How many coats ? Greetings from Poland 🇵🇱 love you muchly:)

@@kornelmoleda Hello to Poland. I watched that you also have your own woodworking youtube channel. Only I didn't understand. Well, I don't speak Polish. Sorry. I use "Teak Oil", its main component is linseed oil. The oil bath works with the drain pump of the washing machine, I don't have to pump myself. I oil it twice and once more with oil wax. Teak Oil is well absorbed but poorly covered, sens the last layer of oil wax. The oil wax must also be slightly polished, it will be smoother to the touch. Greetings from Estonia.

Hi Todd & Maxine. Thank you. The big wheel is self-made. The core is made of plywood and sandpaper flaps are glued to the core. The machine is not an angle grinder but a polisher, which means that the rotation is 3000 rpm. not 6000 rpm. like an angle grinder. The pink/red disc is a store-bought velcro sanding pad with sanding disc.

@@udoaas2466 thanks

@@udoaas2466 very clever, I was wondering if the large flap wheel was diy. Couldn't find them in stores anywhere online. Did you use contact cement for glue? What grit are you using? Recently I used a variety of wire wheels on a grinder to strip furniture and it certainly puts a mark on it, with lots of loose wood fibers. I'm looking to make mine smooth like yours.

@@LitoGeorge Yes, I also couldn't find it in the shopping network, that's why I make it myself. Very good for sanding curved surfaces. I use a roughness of P100. Maybe it would be better to do it in two different roughnesses - P80 and P120. In the case of harder wood varieties, it would probably be good. But the soft alder can handle the roughness of the P100 as well. I glue these disks with Soudal Fix-ALL High Tack glue. Sometimes some individual sandpaper comes loose, but generally it holds. When sanding with wire discs, the wood fibers come loose, yes, you should lightly sand with sandpaper after brushing. Maybe toning the wood a bit between the brush and the sandpaper would bring out the wood pattern better.

@@udoaas2466 interesting thought about staining? (toning) the wood between the wire wheel and sanding. I believe I'll give that a try in due course. TX for your info, I think you're one incredibly inventive woodworker with your tools and methods. I keep thinking you're the grandpa everyone wants to be around 😊

Welcome to Moscow. Strength to you for the summer. You can find the dimensions of my furniture on my website. www.uudopuu.ee/ I haven't made any drawings and probably won't. And many dimensions depend on the curves. Unfortunately, I cannot be more helpful in this matter. Looking up, the sky looks pretty good.

Hi Kareem. The glue I use is polyurethane glue PRO 45-P. D4 class glue, weatherproof, expands when it hardens, so it fills all kinds of gaps. Yes, a lot of my tools are self-made, partly to get by cheaper. Partly because such specific tools are simply not produced.

Olá Olá. Obrigada. Eu envelheço a madeira deixando-a no sol e na chuva por pelo menos um ano, depois escurece, depois arranho e amasso um pouco mais. Essa é a idade que parece.

Ok, obrigado, um abraço

Я использую краситель, добавляемый в воду между шлифовками, чтобы было легче увидеть, где уже была отшлифована, а где еще не отшлифована. Во время последней шлифовки я оставляю немного оттенка добавленного красителя, чтобы был того же оттенка, что и поверхность уже состаренной древесины. К сожалению, я не могу вам сказать, что это за краситель. Секрет производства.

В ванне «Масло тика» хорошо впитывается, но плохо покрывает. А потом масляный воск. Плохо впитывает, но хорошо укрывает.

Спасибо 👍

I couldn't find them anywhere either and had to make them myself.