Says 3 yrd right off the bat

that's is what I thought too - but considering that most of the "subject matter experts", e.g. also T.G. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/d7yHlaR4rJiYiJ8.html send out the same message, there must be more to it. After some contemplating I came to the following conclusion: they are correct if they talk about a small deviation from the center shot and a arrow with a relative soft spine. Then the archer's paradox will cause the tear pattern they talking about that needs to be corrected by moving the rest in the opposite direction of the tear. However, if you have a very stiff spine, or shoot with a relative low poundage, or if your deviation from the center shot is high, or worse: all of these scenarios together - then you have to move your arrow rest first so the point of your arrow moves towards where the tear is. I guess that would also explain why there is so much confusion about the right way to move the arrow rest: it all depends on your setup (poundage, spine) and how big the deviation is from the ideal center shot.

The fletching corrects arrow flight by that distance and hides issues with the arrow leaving the bow... Paper tuning at distance has value - but only if you're using bare shafts.

I found the best way to shoot perfect bullet holes is to paper tune your bow 2ft away that way there's nothing to affect it's flight pattern. Left nock tear that close means you move the arrow rest to the left. Follow the arrow nock. Once you shoot perfect holes shoot a bear shaft arrow at 20 yards and make extremely small corrections.

@@joeversus2893incorrect! U move it right

@@reddawng43x91 why? what is the theory?

100grain is nothing. Need 150minimum.

I heard from a reputable source that any distance should look the same.

3 yards is for rest adjustments like he is demonstrating here. As you move farther in distance the rest doesn't play as much of a role. What you'll be trying to correct at farther distances are spine stiffness and fletching. Hope this helps.

Jmac Possibly an issue with the arrow being too stiff

i have the same problem but my arrows kick down every time... do you discovered the problem?

Apparently the longer the arrow travels the more it sets itself up to fly straight. That's why paper tuning is done over a short distance.

sounds like your bow tech just wants to sell you new limbs!. Alternatively, just raise your arrow rest a little and shoot again. Simply setting an arrow in the rest and setting it level does not take into account the forces applied to the arrow when it's shot! rests drop, blades flex and this has to be taken into account when tuning. just adjust your rest or go to another bow technician.

You can also tiller tune also

Adjust one side of the poundage lol ! Jesus Christ that tech is dumb

You might need to add/subtract twists to the yokes, if your bow has them

@@LancasterArcherySupply I don't believe my bow has yokes. It is a 2006 Bowtech Tomkat. I have never taken proper "lessons" on shooting, but I was getting good groups with my 100 grain field tips, and was shooting high and left with my 100 grain RamCat broadheads. I decided to paper tune, and that is when I noticed my right tear issue. I am headed to the bow shop tonight and see what the experts say. I hope it is user error because that is something I can/want to correct. I find it hard to believe that my field tips and broadheads are way off at 20 yards. Thanks for the video and the info!

@@vikingslayer34 You are correct. That bow does not have yokes. The difference you are seeing between field points and broadheads is quite common, but it's harder to fix on your bow, since you don't have yokes. You might find that the fix requires moving your cams on the axle....unless the problem is hand torque, as you suggested might be the problem. If you had yokes, you would just add twists to change the cam lean. Since you don't have them, the fix usually is to move the cams with shims.

@@LancasterArcherySupply Awesome I appreciate your input!

bare shaft tuning is for traditional archery disciplines.