Indeed! I had to remove a lot of young branches that were in bundles, though I kept a few, to replace some of the longer branches in the future. But this root system though! Mugos have fibrous shallow root systems, very rare to get tap roots, even when planted in the ground for years. It's a joy to work with this species! Thank you!

Thank you!

Thank you, I appreciate it greatly!

Thank you!

Thank you! You guessed right. Myco additive. I've described it in my other pine videos, guess I forgot in that one. Cheers!

Thank you! I appreciate it greatly!

Thank you Jef!!

Thank you Pako!

Thank you! Every pine destined to become a bonsai should be bare rooted once in their lifetime. The younger the better. Unfortunately since this was a nursery grown pine I had to do it now despite being a little bit older. If you do it the right time (beginning of spring when the roots have produced white tips) and provide decent after care (mine is in a greenhouse with high humidity and protection from frost) chances are it will be fine. If you don't have a greenhouse, keep it in the shade for a month to 6 weeks and mist the foliage daily especially if the day is hot. Now that I've set the root structure radially, I'll never work on the nebari again. In every repotting from now on, I will work the outside and underside of the rootball. Cheers!

Thank you! Yes, you can repot after the new growth has hardened off BUT assuming you can provide perfect conditions (shade and temperatures below 25 26 deg Celsius plus higher humidity) until autumn has settled AND as long as it is not a big repotting (let's say taking a tree with an already good fibrous root system in a pot and putting it in the same or similar sized pot). Since you have probably trees in nursery pots, I'd recommend against putting them in much smaller ceramic pots in late summer. Having said that, I've done heavy pine repottings in late October to mid November with 90% success or more and with my native species here (pinaster) I can get easy 100% success then. My climate is rather hot for summer repottings. Cheers!

Hello Victor! This work is done in late winter. Since I have a relatively hot summer I like to work the roots a bit early and have more time until the first heat wave. Greetings to beautiful Virginia!

Not entirely. It has equal parrs zeolite and perlite and for organic I used about 5-10% topsoil from the forest, which is semi composted abies needles, bark and cone pieces. Cheers!

Late February. Late winter for me. Cheers!

Is this tree survived?

@pinoydad_0811 yes it did! But I don't have it anymore. New home!

Both. You need both to maintain a good looking single flush pine. Although with this one I will skip working on the candles this season since it has been through a barerooting which is major surgery. So in mid spring you break the strongest candles (not in half but to become the same size with the some of the weakest but still have some needles on them) and then in early June you come and prune all of them to only e few pairs of needles(perhaps 4 or 5 pairs). That's for well developed, refined, healthy trees. For trees still in development or new unbalanced trees, I skip the mid spring cut and do just the early June and needle removing in November. Cheers!

@@ArkefthosBonsai that was super helpful! Thank you so much!

@@ArkefthosBonsai another question 😅 do you also do this two step (early spring pinching/candle breaking and the early June pruning to 4 or 5 needle pairs) procedure to Japanese white pine if it's well developed? and I can do the same 2 step process to my Pinus Nigra, right? You never cut the complete candle? always leave a few needles? last year end of July I experimented and did cut a few candles completely on an Scots Pine and Pinus Nigra and got many new buds. why should I not cut the complete candle? thanks in advance. your help is very appreciated.

@@maxlucamaus1663 For the first part. Yes, that's the procedure for all single flush pines (parviflora as well) that have been somewhat developed to a point. This, and a good fertilizer schedule, that's it. Second part. It doesn't make any sense to cut completely the new growth on a single flush pine. Yes, in some vigorous pine species you might get buds on the cutting point (there is also a good chance you might not, and then the branch will die) but cutting the new growth just takes you one year back in development and ramification. Double flush pines, they set new buds AND elongate them in the same season, so even if you cut back the growth, you are rewarded with new growth, probably more than two buds, which enhances ramification and as bonus, with good timing, you are getting smaller needles. For single flush pines, at best you get more buds but for next year. You lost this season. I can only see very limited application for this and it does not worth the risk of losing the branches. And be carefull, doing this over and over, not only the development stays stagnant, but also you are not going to get new buds for more than two years in a row and the branch will definately die.

Yes you can, but you won't have to. Through proper bonsai techniques, watering and fertilising, once the tree is well ramified, aged and in a small enough bonsai pot, the needles will be so small you won't need to trim them. Mugo reduces it's needle size very well.

I use Micoseeds Plus from a company called Miceospore. Found it locally, it's working great. Wherever I use it, in pines and most conifers, I see reduced repotting stress and soon fungi reach to the top of the soil, under the moss and the fertilizer bags, everywhere. I don't think you can go wrong with any mycorrhizae supplement.

@@ArkefthosBonsai Thank you!

And the big answer is, yes it did. You can see it in my updates video, in the summer, pushing new growth. Cheers!

@@ArkefthosBonsai great News!! Yes i found your channel this morning. Just subscribed. I will check out some more videos when i come home from work

It's great to see you here! I hope you enjoy every second of it! Thank you for your support!

Yes it did, but it's not with me anymore. It has a new home! Cheers!