I'd recommend having the switch between the power cable and the module, rather than the module and the transducer. No need to keep the circuitry on if it's not actually doing anything

You should've connect the PE-wire to frame and made sure the tank grounds through the frame

At 15:25, the bigger tabs closest to the insulation of the wire should go around the insulation. That's why they are bigger and longer to wrap around the insulation. The smaller tabs, which you crushed completely flat, they should grab the bare copper. If the wire bends to many times, in your current state, it will break just after the 2 bigger tabs and you have a loose disconnected wire. If the tabs would grab the insulation, it would prevent it. It seems the black wire was done correctly.

The transducer should come with a threaded plug that is designed to be TIG welded to the stainless tank. Then the transducer gets screwed down hard onto that with a smear of Sikaflex bedding compound. This greatly extends the life of the transducer as it gets cooled directly from the tank rather than hoping enough heat gets passed across an epoxy barrier, which when using the five minute handyman types can fail quickly due to excessive heat. JB weld or a similar metal rich epoxy may prove much more effective in the long term, if choosing epoxy as the connection medium... There was a lot of interest in fitting ultrasonic emitters to boat hulls a few years back instead of applying anti foul coatings. A lot of people found out the hard way that bonding the sonic generators to any surface permanently is way harder than first thought...

Nice build! A tub that size would have greatly benefitted from having two transducers. You can see the cleaning action is pretty much only in the center. Also if you can find a basket to put stuff in and have it lifted from the bottom, the cleaning area will increase as it did with the aluminum foil that was floating up top, as the ultrasonic action spreads up and out like a V. End of the day it's a good build that will beat a toothbrush with ISO any day :)

one little advise, when your drilling metal at the beginning juste make sure your turning the right way, it was the wrong side

7:14 You've wired the phase into the neutral and vice versus: Brown & Red are live, Black & Blue are Neutral. 13:26 The Earth really should be attached to the metal water bath; also the cut Earth (green wire) could randomly touch parts of your PCB. Tight grommets or silicone would be nice around the wire / switch case penetrations. Very interesting to see the insides, thanks!

Thanks for the video! By the way, you could probably add a faucet to drain water. Then you'll not need to disconnect the transducer etc.

Things should not touch the bottom and only water can be placed in the ultrasonic cleaner, aggressive substances can be placed in another container and placed in the ultrasonic cleaner. Sorry for my english :)

Really cool! A nice upgrade should be a PID controlled heater and timer.

Nice work on making your own ultrasonic cleaner, it came out great! :D I look forward to seeing you use it in any future reviews, as well as newer experimental videos from this channel!

Nice build. One tip: using some hot air (hairdryer) after mixing the epoxy removes the air bubbles in the epoxy and gives a stronger bound.

hey! great build! i wish I'd done that instead of buying a cheap one. Just a note, you should use a elevated plastic or ruber mat (with holes ) on the bottom, or else putting hard materials (glass, metal) straight on the bottom can ear the bottom of your tank (what with all the vibration).

Making it with the connector out of the way under the bowl was super smart for getting rid of the dirty water safely. Nice job 👏

Perfect thing to watch before bed.

Some bad things can happen with this design ... 1. On/Off switch should be before the electronics, ie right after the power cord. EMI shielding is required 2. 3rd wire of the power cord should be connected to the metal parts - frame or the tank 3. Very poor protection of the electronics against getting wet 4. Both wires for the generator should be mechanically connected to withstand those vibrations 5. Same goes for epoxy connections - won't last in a long run 6. The tank is big enough to use more than one generator - because vibrations are in cone shape 5 are optimal (1 per each side and 1 at from bottom), but it will be more expensive 7. Tank also must be thick enough - most industrial variants has 3mm stainless steel wall

Nice project! I do have some constructive criticism concerning the soldering. 8:00 It would be a lot easier to solder the wires if you pre-tinned them and the area you were soldering to. Solder sticks to solder better than to untinned metal. 11:06 The soldered wires have spiky protrusions that could theoretically poke through the heatshrink. Especially the red wire. This is why it might be better to cut each wire to a different length so the extension points don't line up with each other. This way even if the heatshrink insulation fails the chance of a short will be lower. 12:53 I'm a little concerned about the loose wire strands. To avoid this it might be better to twist the strands together after stripping the insulation and then tin them. This way the strands will keep together.

Very nice idea and a great build of the mechanical part. As an electrician I am almost horrified. Some points are already mentioned in other comments like the connector pins that aren´t crimped as they should be or the switch that has to be in the power line instead of the output. Then I recommend using a cable gland for the power line instead of making a knot. Or fixing the control board properly inside the box with some spacers and screws. Last thing would be not be absolutely necessary, but when using a power line with a PE, connect it to the metal frame even if there should never be any contact between frame and power line. But when it´s there anyway, why not use it?

Anyone else see the drill bit rotating Backwards? , ,. 3:08 as it comes to a stop, pause then single frame the video backward, you can tell for sure then.

I did very similar but to my kitchen sink. It’s some of the best money I’ve ever spent.

Love the drill-powered paint shaker...

Within the “speaker” area the effect is immediate, but it decreases at more external zones. I think that more speakers could help having a constant action inside the bowl. And considering cost I think that’s one of the things is convenient to buy instead build it : less than 80 euros for a 3 liter tank, less than 120 for a 6 liter one, all stainless steel, with temperature and frequency adjustments, timer, lid and drain tap.

Your videos are so relaxing and satisfying to watch.

This is one of the coolest things I have seen from you. Great work!

The layman is amazed - and the expert throws up

Subscribed for 2 reasons: 1. Interesting little project. 2. Good descriptions.

Thank you very much for sharing your video,that's great. from Algeria🇩🇿

Wow you got the shop lol. Nice.

Hi, although this video is almost 2 years old (til now), you did a great job. Thanks from Ecuador, SouthAmerica. I noticed something that may be apreciated by many of us hobbists, wich is the kind of liquids or solutions for each case of cleaning. Some mention warm/hot /no water with detergent/isopropilic alcohol/thinner/etc. but all there are briefly mentioned in different videos. For example, just I learn from your video that rusty iron can be (accurately?) cleaned with vinegar and some time at the ultrasonic cleaner. In my case I'm craving to find a way to clean dollar coins found in the beach that have black stains, sometimes sand and broken seashell stick to them making it to look like a bigger dark stone. Watches, keys and some jewerly run the same fate. Anyway, I found your video useful and it will go to my library of knowledge.

That rattle can shaker is PRICELESS!!

For a good and fast soldering: first put tin on each part to be connected, place them in contact as desired and approach the tip (well tinned) of the soldering iron: the heat is transmitted instantly to the entire connection , the tin is evenly distributed over the entire surface in 2 seconds and the soldering iron can be removed. The weld is homogeneous, solid (no "sticking") and aesthetic.

1. Ground the entire frame (and bath). 2. It does make a difference how you attach the transducer i.e. polarity and grounding. 3. You either crimp or solder a cable, different methods for different applications, although in this particular case, doesn't make much difference. 4. Add cooling to that PCB 5. The epoxy method of attaching the transducer will not last long enough. I have few of the cheap Chinese ultrasonic cleaners, like the Vevor, etc, they are all bad. Even though the transducers are attached with the screw to the bath AND with an adhesive, they detach quite quickly. The screw is spot welded poorly. The best method is to TIG weld the screw, attach the transducer to the screw and then apply epoxy. In this case the epoxy is to prevent the transducer from unscrewing itself, acting more like a tread locker than as an attaching adhesive. There is nothing generally wrong with your design, except the grounding. because electrical shock, however the epoxy will just not last long enough and you will have to constantly fiddle with it.

Very nice work, may I suggest adding fan to circuit because these kind of circuits getting very hot.

the spray shaking machine is evolutionary!!!!!!

Nice! I'd be tempted to do the same if I already didn't have a 10l ultrasonic cleaner. BTW, the best drill bits for plastic are glass and masonry bits, with a good edge. Masonry bits scrape off the material and don't bite into it, while metal and timber bits try to cut into material and cause all kinds of problems.

I recently got one of those soldering irons with the trigger solder feed. It's a wonderful tool

Wow ❗ great video and a perfect build. Thanks for sharing

Thank you for the warning on the welding/lights!!

Many Thanks! This will be very useful in my future

fill a zip lock bag with a bit of cleaning solution, put the objects in it, fill the cleaner tub with water, place the bag in the tub. This keeps your cleaner tub clean and does not waste huge quantities of cleaning solution.

Magnífico proyecto mi querido amigo......Por lo cual, le doy mi más efusiva enhorabuena.......Solo un par de detalles......Le recomiendo que el recipiente metálico o la cubeta la conecte a Tierra o masa de su instalación eléctrica.....Para prevenir posibles derivaciones directas o indirectas y proteger su integridad física.....Una duda que tengo....¿podemos añadir algún liquido que a la vez nos ayude a quitar más óxido a la pieza que hemos sumergido?.....Le mando un fuerte abrazo desde Las Islas Canarias (España)................

Circuit board has 2 transformers and they produce heat. You need a bigger box with in and out venting with a cooling fan . Also a suspended wire basket so items to be cleaned will be able to get treated evenly and not destroy the bottom of the pan.

That can shaker is awesome

I think you're supposed to crimp wire insulation under 2nd set of tabs to ensure a very good grip

Your switch should connect to the main power supply for safety.

Nice, I keep wanting to get an ultrasonic cleaner myself, I just haven't gotten around to it yet... :P

Great paint can shaker !

Great video thanks for sharing with us.

Nice build!

May I suggest first attaching your wires and terminals mechanically and then applying solder. In the event your end up with a cold solder joint, then your wire will still pass maximum current. With a cold solder joint, the current may be forced to pass via the solder material and that could develop unwanted heat and possibly result in a fire hazard. Make sure the wires are always twisted together where possible before soldering. Apply a small amount of solder to the soldering tip then use the tip to heat up the wire. Once the wire reaches the temperature, then melt the solder onto the wire (not the soldering iron tip) so that it flows. The Ultrasonic Emitter needs maximum conductivity to work properly. Hope this helps.

Great Job.. Thanks for the Video..

@18:23 Just look at the nodes! That was pretty cool.

I would never lend you my taps. LOL

3:05 your drill tip was turning in the wrong direction, it will be damaged very quick

This would have saved me some bucks. Just a small suggestion. You can put a control valve similar to a water faucet at one end. That will allow you to drain it without removing the tub

Very good ❤

I would have used thermal conducive epoxy to mount the transducer. That way, the tank can become a heat sink to cool it and perhaps help the transducer last longer.

You also don't need to put your cleaning solutions directly into the tank of the cleaner. Use water with a drop of dish soap in the tank, then set a jar (or other container) with your cleaning solution and parts into the tank. Clean as usual. Now you only have to use a small amount of cleaning solution (saving money) and don't need to empty the big tank every time. In the lab I work in, we use the UC for all types of cleaning solutions and only change the water in the main tank when it gets yucky, maybe once a year. Just top up as needed.

For larger holes in plastic use a step drill. Its so much easyer. Try it. Also get a crimping tool of aliexpress for those wire connectors. Works way better then pliers

simple but efficient build generally, the interrupter is on the hot wire so it should have 2 red wires...

Good work 👍 Yeah...the PE/Ground but it's almost a plastic case. but I would do it anyway, just in case. Water/metal Container/230V ... But there is one thing you have to change as fast as possible ! You have build the PCB into a air&water tight case. But you have to know that the PCB gets very hot! If you don't take care of airflow the PCB and the Transducer distroy itself by overheating. One PC fan is minimum for airflow.

Nice to have a shop

It's got wood sparks!

Thank you so much ❤🙏 19:26 is it enough for do cleaning to fule injectors or solenoids ? Gasoline can be used as a cleaning solution?

Very nice idea

This is a brilliant idea, to use these stainless steel mini tubs. I wanted to build one myself but I didn't find any tubs. I ended up buying a 400 dolar ultrasonic cleaner Form Ali :))

good job bro, that gave me a good idea

Muito bom seu vídeo!!!

I won't comment on your wiring as several people have already done that. But i see from your comments that you plan to add a second ultrasound generator at some point. You would need to make sure that the second was completely in phase with the first and the spacing is calibrated otherwise you might actually end up making it less effective, not more.

Valeu!

6:06 - LOL "I Want One Of Those" - LOL 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣

PE to the frame Power switch to the live wire This way your switch is going to weld pretty quick and driver is going to burn out because its running without trasnducer connected

Why did you put the switch on the output side rather than the power input? Is the circuitry OK with sudden changes in load that that would create? You'll have to keep it unplugged from the mains when not in use so it doesn't consume power (not an arduous task).

Good video. Thanks. I think that the epoxy should be a certain thickness (and hardness). You might have used shims to hold the transducer at the correct distance from the metal.

Awesome build! Although do you think that maybe it would have better efficiency/power transfer if you welded a bolt to the tank that fits the ultrasonic generator and screwed the generator on in addition to the epoxy? I feel like the epoxy would come apart over time maybe not so much because it degraded but because the vibrations just breaks the bond between the metal and epoxy. So by having the majority of the power transfer through the bolt it would help longevity as well as a more direct power transfer but I could be wrong because the shape of the generator is important as well, it works on the same principal as an antenna, it matches the impedance to allow more efficient power transfer but it also makes me wonder why they have that threading on the output. Just a thought.

Put the biggest lazy susan that you can in your paint booth. This makes it easy to rotate your work. Your will not regret it.

You should connect the watermelon cable to metal frame and red wire to brown one. The on-off switch should be cutting off the brown wire when you are not using the machine. It can send 230V on the frame without making any sound or tripping the breakers now.

Wow nice machine

I love how he shakes it to test the glue like that's going to simulate 20khz + frequency 🤣

Old, but as an electronic tech, you really aut to have looped those then soldered transducer, you only ever do simple lay over for testing. For V2.0 you need backer cylinder under the transducer spot when clamping to prevent distortion and air pocket formation, (All so want to mix your epoxy sepperate, degas then add on, then allow transducer to do the spreading after cleaning with acetone)

Is it a good idea to run the board without the transducers?I've read many warnings that it might blow up without a load.

16:22 haha, touche gonna be everywhere on facebook pretty soon , good call! lol

If I add 4 of these transducers to my kitchen sink, maybe I can just dump dirty cutlery and dishes in. :)

Nice 👍

Looks like you should use 2 ultrasonic generators instead of 1. Its just working in the center by the looks of it.

Thank god you showed the entire drilling a hole process....

Could the power transistors not be replaced with CREE Power modules that are designed to work at high power levels.

I love your spray can shaker!!! Do you have a video on making it? I would have to adapt it to a bench grinder as I have 3 or 4 of them but no lathe.

Cool! but I would d have considered using two Transducers for a cleaner of that size. Also putting in a heating element and a basket to lift items of the bottom of the pan. Nice build though.

I would recommend JB weld for the transducer to tank joint... much stronger and harder for a better ultrasonic transparent / transmission joint. Good looking build. Subbed here.

Muito top mano, faltou comer refrigerar sistema resto nota 10❤

Won't the constant vibration eventually break the epoxy glue bond?

Nice job, do you plan on making a 2.0 with stronger motor and more power?

For wielding, you can apply a green filter in your video, so everyone can watch it :)

I have several pressure pots and was wondering if there would be any benefits to operating a sonic cleaner under pressure or vacuum. Iv not been able to find any information I could turn the pressure pot into a sonic cleaner and apply vacuum or pressure to it.

How long for continuous operation before ultrasonic module getting too hot? and can we use desktop pc power supply?

I'm more interested in seeing a build of your spray can shaker.

Thank your for the idea for this build. I wonder, if you have made any calculations before the building about how many vibrating engine you will equip? I mean, why have you used only one engine? Would not be this tool more effective with 2 engines? Thanks for your answer. ;-)

Aawweessoommee!👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻🥰🥰🥰💓💓💕💞💛💛💗💗😍😍💖💖❤️

Nice job , Where did you buy the components