I think this process will naturally happen to at least some degree in a lot of cases

This is correct.. You must give the silicone access to the air fully before engagement. Anaerobics are usually better when instant installation is necessary.

You sound about right had to learn that trick from a 70 year old dude that’s been building motors since the 60s been learning slots of tips and tricks building my small block side by side with him check my page out I’m building my 84 cutlass supreme

🤔

It will just leak through the bolt hole.

@@pingpong9656 Rusting the bolt so it snaps on removal. Small Block Ford problems

No it doesn’t, it will leak through the bolt hole.

My thought as well , like why else would a water pump that comes with a gasket also goes around bolts

@@1pyroace1 actually you’ve got a point

Agree

I also find that especially in tight spaces, slightly cured RTV doesn't wipe away as easily when trying to fit a part.

0:38

Yeah I did that this time. Thick bead, hand tight till it oozed a bit, waited an hour, tightened it down, and its been several hours now. I might just go fill it up.

@@culturebreath369 - Nice… I would wait till the morning if you don’t need to go anywhere tonight. I’m sure it will turn out good regardless.

so you made it wrong, cause all fabs are saying the same: bolt it loose, wait, torque it down.

i use only red rtv it seems to be stronger

Si I did not quite understand , when you put the bead of silicone are you suppose to wait for it to dry before placing the cover and bolting it down, or do you put it all together, wet and tighten down?

@@alexshatner3907 Sort of Wet. Let it set up for about 5 minutes. For a water pump as shown here, you shouldn't need a very thick amount.

Of course the instructions say don't wait for it to tack, but how many do we all know that do wait a bit? Not me, though. I only do exactly what the instructions say. Except I usually don't. And if someone ask me how to do it, I just say, I always do exactly what the instructions say". And then my SO would say, "You're such a liar! I can't believe I let you (beep) me."

WATCH THE WHOLE VIDEO! 2:56

Not sure about this silicone but doesnt say that on the black stuff. It says assemble immediately and finger tighten bolts then torque to spec in an hour.

The Right Stuff says thick bead, hand tight immediately, wait an hour, tighten down, wait 90 mins. Fill her up. I waited a few mins before hand tightening, and a bit extra before filling, but other than that I did the exact directions. We'll see how it goes.

Si I did not quite understand , when you put the bead of silicone are you suppose to wait for it to dry before placing the cover and bolting it down, or do you put it all together, wet and tighten down?

Yes, the thin skin first bead is allowed to dry or skin over. It only takes a few minutes, maybe 5 plus. That skin does not squish out from between the parts as readily as uncured rtv. The bead of fresh rtv on the opposing surface fills any small gaps and sticks the two surfaces together. I have seen friends put a bead on one side and let it skin over or not, then assemble with zero leaks and I have also seen it leak, same with my method. I have simply had far better results with my method, so I go with it.@@alexshatner3907

Imo, start with the info the company gives you and then adapt from there. Nobody seems to ever follow the permetex instruction, but perm tells put down the correct amount, put pieces together - finger tight, and then torque 24 hours later. I try to adhere to the time requirements specified, but most do not. I get why, being the time needed before you torque, but apparently it works anyway. You got the one guy here that first puts down a thin layer, let's it tack up, and then does the other side the real way. I would think you want a one layer seel. I've worked with a lot of glue type product in construction, waterproofing, included. All as technical support. Never had one fair on a job I teched. If putting on two sides, you want a monolithic seal, as if it was one piece when cured. I do not believe permetex was designed to do that, but if layer 2 "melts" layer one and they bond as one, theoretically, it could be possible. But in that case, why wait for one side to tack up, as it's not "just" a glue, but I've always treated it as if it creates a gasket itself that you torque down. I guess the stuff sounds like it's pretty screw up proof once you come up with a workable system. I prefer yhe mfgrs system. I'm not gonna be in a rush, and they've already proved it out. But then, if a reliable mech is doing his way, chances he's not getting leaks either. Do overs cost much more than one and done. Clean is always the biggest factor, I have always concerned myself with. Good luck. Hope it turned out well for you. I'm starting one in about 20 minutes. Oil pan farm equipment for a neighbor.

@@nothankyou5524 Sweet, you do you, im sure it works fantastic. I don't have time to wait 24 hrs normally, most mechanics don't. I know my method works, I have my theories behind why it does work and after 25 plus years, see no reason to change what works. Have a fantastic day and hope your neighbors pan turns out amazing.

Man can you help me on how to spare the parts after doing that? I’m suffering haha

I even tuff up surface with electric engraver also and thick layer of right stuff plus wait 24 hours

@@philliphall5198 Aaaww.... you took me back to 1968 with that one! I used to lay up top in my bunk bed thinking that, _if I "grind down" the top of my cylinder head on my Faux Sears _*_Mini-Bike_*_ i'd get increased compression._ Because so much shlit has happened since I seen *Hippies* smokin' pot at Haight & Ashbury, I forgot what i finally did.

Si I did not quite understand , when you put the bead of silicone are you suppose to wait for it to dry before placing the cover and bolting it down, or do you put it all together, wet and tighten down?

@@alexshatner3907 It is ok to apply and tighten immediately . Before applying clean surface well with brake clean or ether to remove any oil residue on the mating surfaces .

Si I did not quite understand , when you put the bead of silicone are you suppose to wait for it to dry before placing the cover and bolting it down, or do you put it all together, wet and tighten down?

Naw I never have. Never get leaks either. I use a caulking gun w a 14oz tube of ultra grey. When you think you have enough, it's usually too much. Most peoples use way too much! Everything that squishes out is wasted. A 3/16" bead is plenty for most applications. Lifelong mechanic by trade specializing in trans & drive lines.

@@oneninerniner3427 You're lucky. Phil's right.

Si I did not quite understand , when you put the bead of silicone are you suppose to wait for it to dry before placing the cover and bolting it down, or do you put it all together, wet and tighten down?

@@alexshatner3907 The thing that no one seems to under stand is, Let it skin over like the instructions say. A half an hour or 10 minutes or so. Then put it together. If you put it together wet, it will all squish out. He put on way too much. A thin film is all you need. Thin. Like paint thin. :)

@@ebenwaterman5858 Thanks Eben makes more sense the way you explained it

Don’t wait

Don’t listen to the guy that tells you not to wait. Sealants need AIR to cure. This is the reason they recommend giving it the amount of time they engineered it for.

@@kevinanderson8773 Thanks Kevin

Guess Im not the only one that read the instructions. Hand tighten then tq however long later.... I think one was 24hrs no?

@@dave-yj9mc Let dry for 1 hr before torquing. Wait 24hrs before filling with fluid.

it doesnt say that on the Black stuff. It says assemble immediately and finger tighten bolts. Torque in an hour.

I don't paint I'm more likely to need to use rtv than paint something that is that critical

I have a 2008 Cadillac Escalade ESV. GM, nor anyone else (fel-prone,etc.) makes a gasket for the thermostat housing to the water pump. I've wasted so much coolant after putting on the water pump thinking that maybe my tourque specifications were off or something along those lines, when in all actuality, there was a gasket "missing" the whole time that no one makes.This video just saved me tons of money.

Yeah, apparently no one can make a gasket that doesn't leak.

​@@theme61I have same vehicle napa autoparts has that gasket if not get rrv works for me

Si I did not quite understand , when you put the bead of silicone are you suppose to wait for it to dry before placing the cover and bolting it down, or do you put it all together, wet and tighten down?

Si I did not quite understand , when you put the bead of silicone are you suppose to wait for it to dry before placing the cover and bolting it down, or do you put it all together, wet and tighten down?

They can be insulted though, that's ok, I have faith that they can be insulted and are big enough and strong enough to cope. The world will still spin, and carry on.

Yup, clean it and clean it until you think that it must be clean enough, then clean it some more - acetone seems to work well (ventilate!)

@@kellismith4329 Acetone and lacquer thinner are excellent. Residue free contact cleaner is a good substitute in a pinch but it's expensive in comparison to the first two. Best wishes! - Max Giganteum

Si I did not quite understand , when you put the bead of silicone are you suppose to wait for it to dry before placing the cover and bolting it down, or do you put it all together, wet and tighten down?