Thank you so much man. You made this so easy to do and so simple. My thruxtons suspension was ALL over the place💆🏻‍♂️

After one year still riding perfectly according to your adjustments. Cheers.

Thank you sooo much. It was all wrong when I bought it from the dealer.

Good job on clearifying the suspension settings on the TTR. Helped me out a lot! Thanks!

This was the video I've been looking for! Great job!

Thanks for the info man I got my bike dialed in pretty good with your help and DMT.

Very useful! well done chap!

fantastic job!! Thanks for doing this!!

Tremendous video mate! Thanks

Brilliant video - thanks, really helpful

Just purchased a 2022 RS and found this to be extremely useful... a new subscriber thank you 💫

Thanks, man! That was a master class.

Brilliant gide made easy to understand. Thanks

Fantastic job explaining something that thruxton r owners, should be very familiar with. Perhaps you may add that with a stiffer rear, in a solo hard acceleration, the front will be transfering less weight to the back, so it will keep your nose a bit more on the ground, eliminating that light effect of the front wheel whenever you are strong on the gas when exiting a curve. Fantastic video mate.

Great explanation. Thanks

Brilliant video!

Very helpful, thank you

Thanks for posting this video, respect that you've been able to get the C-spanners to do their job! I have a Thrx R and have spent a lot of time tweaking the suspension. Your video is very helpful, but I'm confused to hear you say in a couple of places that if you're finding the bumps harsh, to INCREASE the compression setting, and the same with the pre-load - INCREASE it. I found the R suspension very harsh, on bumpy B roads especially. Tried all the adjustments myself on both wheels all the way from hard to soft, confused myself hugely. Eventually went to Tillit Suspension in Woodmancote, Glos, Darren is first class. He changed the oil in the front Showas for a thinner grade, and that's helped a great deal. He says the top adjusting Showas don't in fact adjust all that much with the screws. For the Ohlins, he recommended a soft compression and harder rebound, and reset the circlip to the top groove, giving minimum pre-load. Again this helped. His view is that pre-load primarily affects ride height, but with a progressive rate spring like the yellow Ohlin, any preload will make the suspension firmer. I am light weight, 140lbs, and the present setup works well. I would need to adjust the rear preload for sure if I took a pillion or for a heavier rider. One more thought - I found there is an actual misprint in the Owners Manual - it contradicts itself. I pointed it out to Triumph in an email, they acknowledged it, and they may have changed it now. On p99 the table says count the front preload clockwise from the fully anti-clockwise position, but on p100 it says the opposite! I shared your confusion about the rebound setting on the Ohlins, view from above or below? But at least you can feel the difference...

Great video!!!

Great job, dude! Tksss

thanks for your video, it really was very useful, the ohlins should do it for us but it does not. I live in Brazil and I also have a trhuxton 1200, very nive bike. thank you again.

You state that the front preload adjustment is done via 7 clicks. The manual actually says 7 TURNS clockwise from the fully anticlockwise position (the first turn being counted as zero) and not in clicks. Can you clarify?

Brilliant 👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼💯

Good job explaining the basics on the suspension. Would be good to know your weight and the sag settings after adjustments. Also can be useful to use a cable tie to see how much of the suspension you use when Riding based on the setting. Although my weight is only 83kg, believe I may have to get a firmer rear spring.

Where did you order your rear led signals from? They look great!!!

To be clear, by increasing the front clicks from 7 to 10, you are increasing the preload, lowering the front and increasing wrist strain?

great video... thank you very much, I don't have my C spanners, Can anyone tell me the size please?

Öhlins not Ohlins. The company is named after the founder Kenth Öhlins. 12:06 you say 'rebound' but that is the compression adjuster knob (on the reservoir) Minor oversight I'm sure. 13:20: "clockwise" & "counter-clockwise"? This can get confusing depending on which way you are looking at the clickers. Try to think of it as normal right hand threads so Righty-tighty, lefty loosey. The compression adjuster (on the reservoir) is your comfort knob. Compression is soft or stiff. Run it as soft as you can get away with. The rebound clicker knob (bottom of the shock) is a control knob. Rebound is going to be fast or slow depending on your clicker setting. As you go down the road the tire hits a bump & compresses. The compression adjuster knob affects this action. As you go past the bump the shock extends back out or rebounds. How fast or slow the the shock extends out after hitting & then passing the bump is what the rebound knob affects. Fast rebound will keep the tire on the ground (which is good!). Too fast & the ride will be like a pogo-stick. "Springy", bouncy, etc. (un-controlled). Too slow on the rebound will make the shocks "pack up" or drag across the top of multiple bumps in a row. Faster rebound will allow the tire to extend down into the valley of each bump (keeping the tire on the ground). The clicker knobs are controlling a small amount of fluid (oil) inside the shock. It is like a water faucet. Open the faucet to allow more water to flow out. Close off the faucet to restrict the amount of water coming out. Experiment with the clickers one at a time to find your ideal set-up.

I went out on a test ride on a new Thruxton R, at high speed on the motorway it became very unstable. In that situation what do you recommend?

Wow what length is on the rear shock. They seem really tall.

Hopefully you can answer this. During your video your rear dampening number was 24 clicks but in your comment you list 5. Which one is it for your preferred straight line comfort?

Have you tried to set the suspension up with the right (static) sag numbers on your weight already? That's normally the best initial setup for every rider. After that it's all about setting the right compression and rebound to be able to use the full travel without bottoming out and not "pogo-ing" back up.

Hey man what’s the tail tidy you have? Or is it the OEM fender removal?

Thanks!! Anyone get the po-go stick rear bouncing on the highway? Like, highways that just aren’t paved fully flat? Had this issue on both of my bikes, but want to address it on my thruxton rs. It seems to be coming from the rear.

Please tell me where do you buy your bike seat. I have one but without pillion seat

Excellent and helpful video, but I find it odd Triumph sold us suspension that you can reduce preload in the front, yet not easily the rear. You can reduce front preload from factory settings 7 clicks (biker617 rolls his back to zero, adds 7 and then adds 3 more) but on the rear you cannot reduce preload with the tools supplied, but only add (position 2 or position 3). The only way to reduce preload from the factory settings on the supplied Ohlins is to compress the spring, and pull the circlip that's under the top ring and move the circlip to a higher groove. This is not covered in the Owner's Handbook and that book is incorrect in saying you can loosen or tighten the top ring which they refer to as a 'lockring' - Did Triumph assume they were supplying Ohlins threaded style shocks instead of the circlip models supplied? I'm 5'-4 and needed to reduce preload to get the rear of the bike to sag. I ended up pulling the circlips and letting the two rings rise all the way to the top of the shocks.

My book says adjust preload on the forks from the FULLY CLOCKWISE position not anti

Just for extra info here are my own preferred settings in addition to the manual recommended ones: These are + from the minimum level on each setting. Urban / Crappy English Roads / Max Comfort: Rear Preload : Setting 0 (no clicks down) Rear Compression Damping: +8 clicks Rear Rear Rebound Damping: +5 clicks (turns opposite way to Compression) Front Preload: 7 full turns with key Front Compression Damping: +1-2 full turns Front Rebound Damping: +1-2 full turns Pros/Cons - Best comfort in a straight line. If you get front-end dive or oversteer try increasing front compression damping. Two Up: Rear Preload: +2 clicks Rear Compression Damping: +16 clicks Rear Rebound Damping: +15 clicks Front: As above * UPDATE: My preferred sporty ride settings: To improve the cornering agility, consider the following as changed from the solo settings: Rear Preload: 0 Rear Compression: +2 clicks in addition Rear Rebound: = +1-5 clicks in addition Front Preload: -1 full turn Front Compression: No change Front Rebound: +2 turns in addition. Try a pro suspension shop if not achieving desired results. Thanks!

Not sure you are doing the front preload correctly. The manual says number of "turns" not "clicks". I am confused myself so open to interpretation. All other adjustments mention clicks, however.

On the front preload setting is it 7 clicks or 7 full turn?

How would you lower the rear shocks?

I see your having issues with engine cover corrosion other people have been talking about online.

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FUUUUUUCK 5 MINUTES IN U STILL YAKING!!!

Your video is fake, and have put people at risk. The front preload in turns and not clicks corrected it.