Glad this was able to come in handy for you. Hopefully more vids on this channel does the same. And damn what a job to try out. You are obviously bad ass of you can tackle this. Congrats on getting it done and imagine how much $$$ you saved.

Mr busted knuckles just wanted to give you knuckles 👊 for this video, I did my 2013 dd13 has 470k and started to show signs of low pressure especially when starting cold or hot it was not bam pressure like b4 as soon as it started anyway took the pan down and sure as shot the tubes were clanking when I shockem so thank you man for your video it helped alot , . Ps my truck has a bracket that holds the front air valves , makes it a problem to pull the pan out , I found if you take the front motor mount off then remove the bracket pan comes right out anyways ✌️

Great idea. Next time I come across this I will add a video. Just keep in mind it will be very different for each Eng model.

Thanks for watching and the sub. Can’t do it without support from viewers like yourself. So regarding your question I’m leaning towards low oil level after those repairs. That would make the most sense. Than after your filter was replaced it was possible that your level was filled by either yourself or the tech. But low level will cause those issue. That or orings on the oil suction man are not seated correctly and sucking air which would also cause stuttering and oil light to come on. Hope it stays away and you don’t have to deal with it.

@@bustedknucklebydieseldr3228 will look into and thank you again !

Im pretty sure I answered that in the video, atleast I better of. Definitely prime the lubrication system after repairs. No oil is left in the suction manifold so the block has no protection against seizng up.

Yes! Detroit recommends that you prime after replacing the suction manifold and oil pump. They sell a special piece or you can make one.

@@qb6570 now how do i prime the oil? Where is the plug located? Thanks

​@@user-dc4ke4hf1mit's the oil sample port on the right side of the block... just need 700 dollars for the adapter and pump. Fucking sucks and now I'm not sure what to do lol

Man this is a tough one. If oil press shows zero the next thing I’d do is plumb in a manual gauge and find out if the sensor is bad or gauge is wrong before I’d drop the pan. Or this will all be for nothing

Put new sensor in. Zero on Guage still..had mechanic hook up scanner and let me watch oil pressure on laptop. Cranked engine and pressure went from 00.00 to 00.58 for 1 second then back to zero. So we figure that oil tried to pump but lost prime/suction. Either o rings or plastic tube cracked. What's ur best guess. Thx again for info.

@@dennissacco909 did engine still crank over or did it stop and seize. I’m worried that the Eng seized up with no oil press. If that’s not the case than I would change oil pump , tube orings and suction manifold.

Thanks for your help 👍

Just the screen portion of the suction manifold is dipped into the lowest portion of the oil pan.

Those ones might be 22lbft. I’d have to look it up again.

​@bustedknucklebydieseldr3228 do you know if ita 22 or 44? I'm stuck and don't wanna mess this up.

​@@tblickie7000I'm in the same boat you're in right now as I type this. I stopped at 30 ft lb and even that feels like it's going to break the bolt. So I backed everything off and currently have the oil pump and suction manifold at 25 ft lb. The oil pump claims to only require 22 ft lb as well as the oil pan bolts. The odd thing is every one of these bolts is exactly the same size. So why are the four on the suction manifold claiming to be 44 ft lb. I don't know if you torked it to 44 if you did let me know. I'm afraid to do it.

​@tblickie7000 it's 22ftlbs. 15-18 for the pan

That is a great quest,, first you want to test the sensor and see if it’s accurate. Than plum in a gauge and check actual oil pressure. If those are good drop the pan and check those orings If good or bad you’ll place them. But if good you’ll go to the oil pump replacement next. After 500k miles you can count on the orings being hard.

@@bustedknucklebydieseldr3228 hey thanks for the response, definitely will be asking more questions later on lol. I work at a fleet shop and sometimes I get stuck on something that I can’t figure out and I ask someone else but usually they don’t know either.

@@r.i.p_the_5.367 well you came to the right place. Specialty is everything freightliner but I’ll work on the others as well. Hopefully these vids are able to come in handy for you in the future of not , il do what I can to answer them. Stay safe out there.

@@r.i.p_the_5.367 sup bro, just some advice. Read the repair manuals if you dont know. if you follow them for diagnosis then you can’t fail and no one can bust your balls. takes the guess work out of it.

@@RampFisha exactly. That’s something I’ve started learning is that if you don’t know it better find it in paper. Because guess work is never good work

Thanks for commenting man. No personal shop as of yet but hopefully someday in the near future

Great question. I would say just bad timing. Those plastic manifolds can crack at any moment. Also the orings for the pick up tubes get dry over time and with being a 15 model it was going to happen sooner rather than later. While your there replace oil pump ,pick up manifold, all tube orings.

@@bustedknucklebydieseldr3228 thank you keep up the good work

Good question. M8 bolts would be 22 lbft and m10 would be 44lbft. Hope that helps

Thanks for watching and reaching out. This was a 2016

Thanks for watching. The main concern was the orings for the pick up tubes. They are the weak link. Manifold isn’t brittle but I do recommend replacing it if your there. Customer didn’t want it replaced just re-oringed even after I informed him it would be best. In the end , it’s whatever the customer wants. Thanks for taking time to reach out.

@@bustedknucklebydieseldr3228 understand. How much was it for everything?

@@user-do4ti9wb1s that I am not sure of. Expect to pay about 6 hrs labor of whatever the door rate is where you go.