Great video, Stephen! I just sent a small cash donation to Ethan's fundraiser. I CHALLENGE ALL OF YOU FELLOW VIEWERS here to do the same. After all, where can you better spend your money than supporting America's future?

My Husband worked on Cars and Trucks for Thirty Years he Love's your videos That is one good young man you have there God Bless

To keep the rotor from getting wiggly and doing whatever it wants I hand tighten a lug nut until the rotor quits moving.Also anything that contacts rubber gets silicon slide pin grease and everything else gets antiseize, especially the hub face up here in the rust belt.

Hey guys, I fixed the link to my sons fundraiser! thank y'all for letting me know!

For anyone that watches: First thing I suggest doing is drowning everything with brake clean, otherwise when you start touching the brakes all of that dust is going to go in the air and into your lungs. It's an open secret in the auto industry that your brakes still do, in fact, contain asbestos, folks.. Secondly I would suggest using medium-strength blue thread-lock on the caliper bracket bolts, the red often requires a torch to remove later on Stephen I know this video was a long time ago for you, I actually found it through a video of yours from 2017, thank you for trying to give insight to others(sorry about the screwdriver hopefully you got it warrantied) and most of all thank you for using jackstands, you would be amazed how many guys on KZfaq do these kinds of videos with only a jack supporting a vehicle

This is where I can't wait to see if I have missed anything since I specialize in brakes and tires.

I always learn something Stephen, awesome. You're so lucky you don't have to deal with rust from salted winter roads. Great video, thanks.

The guides are stainless. Put the grease under to prevent rust jacking. Not on top. Rust belt dwellers know all to well

To keep you from snapping more expensive Snap-On prybars...I mean screwdrivers...use a large set of c-clamps to push the pistons back in before pulling the caliper off. You can even weld a nut onto the end of the screw so you don't have to crank on the little handles.

My FIL taught me to use a c clamp and the old pad and it pushes the piston right back in. No tools broken 👌

For guide pin holes that have had pins stuck in them that have rust in them, I wrap some scotch brite around a drill bit and clean the holes up like new with the drill.

Sometimes it's the simple things that get you! It never seems to amaze me that so many experienced mechanics don't know to take the cap off the master cylinder before trying to pry the brake pads! This releases pressure making the prying easier and keeps the pad piston from creeping back out!

Man I'm always down to learn new things even if I've done job 100 times

The cleaning stuff is a great tip. I love your videos because the nuance is good to know about wirebrushing the surfaces. Plenty of videos will just teach you how to grease up the rubber contact surfaces. Replaced the brake calipers on my F350 7.3L and got my first torque wrench, Milwaukee impact, jack, and jack stands (in addition to learning about jack safety). Time to get myself a wire brush and some of that surface cleaner.

Have you ever tried applying a little caliper grease where the hub and rotor make contact? I tried it when I put new rotors on my Jeep, mostly because of the road salt and the rust it causes. Hopefully my wheels don't fly off lol

Those thin spacers are on there because the railroad uses a wheel like an inside dually wheel at all four corners on hi-rail trucks so the tires can run on the rail. The spacer is most likely there to sorta fine tune the wheel spacing so the center of the tires are running on the center of the rail when hi-railing.

I truly like your torque procedures. In the Army ba k in the 70s I worked on trucks and that were the torque procedure.

Hey STEVE. fix that leaky air hose. 😂🤣

Try doing brake jobs in northern New England and then tell me to just use a wire brush. You would lose your shirt on flat rate w/out power tools while surrounded by rust.

Agree with all but for one point. Put rounded-face brake hose pliers on flexible brake hose and open bleeder screw (with a plastic hose emptying expelled fluid into a container) before pushing piston back into caliper - consult any brake manufacturer's textbook and it will say the same. Problem is if you don't, you risk any contaminants in the fluid behind the piston in the caliper getting back into the ABS unit, a unit which is not repairable - and is expensive. If contaminants end up in the ABS unit, then a good chance of ABS unit going "wheels up" at some stage. Topping up with a bit of brake fluid is much cheaper than replacing an ABS unit. Just remember to close off the bleeder screw and remove the brake hose pliers after the piston has been retracted. Bob Hudson. Retired mechanic - Land Down Under.

Always lift with you legs and not your back. I always apply never-seize between the brake rotor and the hub to prevent rust or corrosion so the next time you need to remove the rotor it will come off far easier.

Just imagine what brakes are like, up here in the Salty Belt. EVERYTHING gets super glued by rust. So freaking annoying when everything gets rust jacked. I C-clamp the caliper, rather than breaking stuff... lol

I have used Wagner brake parts for longer than I can remember at this point on all types of vehicles and never had a returning customer or problem with them. I don't agree with red loctite on the caliper bracket bolts - I stick with blue so they will hold but come off without a lot of pain. Good information and been doing it that way for a long time now.

That screw driver trick is worth gold...thanks

Pro tip: Always check the master cylinder fluid level. I hate it when some lube tech tops it off. Compressing the pistons can cause the reservoir to overflow corrosive brake fluid onto everything below. Nearly every mechanic has done this at some point.

Hello! I have usually repaired my cars myself, including repair work on the brakes. Do not rush ,the extra time is always the key here!

I Worked At CRC Products When i Was 14 Years Old Back In The late 60's On The Assembly Line One Summer And It's Still Their in Warminster PA.

you know what makes Stephen a true professional he specifies which country's torque it is. I know someone who accidentally torqued to 2 to 5 ugga duggus french torque and his whole truck fell apart.

CRC is what I use for lubing brake parts too. Love the stuff. Great vid man.

3m makes a deep wheel stud grinder attachment for cleaning around the studs. Makes cleaning the hubs easier.

A little Fluid Film spray added where the parts touch metal to metal will make it easier to take apart later. Too much could get on the brake pad and rotor braking surfaces. It is safe for rubber parts.

Family man. Respect

Thanks for your time and tips!

Thanks Stephen. Good stuff. I changes out the engine oil on my Toro single stage snow thrower. We had some heavy snow last week. Oil changes add some life to the snow thrower.

I have had a lot of luck with power stops too. I am convinced that the o’rilley house brand are re branded power stops.

YES STEPHEN! I learned the screwdriver through the caliper trick from my uncle!

Simple job, but one we just don't want to do... I usually get stuck doing them when the shop is full.. so outside in the wet gravel...

Personally, I use a large screwdriver or small pry-bar to compress the piston enough to make it easy to remove the caliper and then, with the inner brake pad still in place, use a C-clamp to finish compressing the piston until it bottoms out. Just take it slow and easy while the brake fluid makes its way back to the master cylinder reservoir.

Man you’re so right about parts stores now. They charge triple what you can get the exact same part for on rock auto or Amazon. And sometimes Amazon can get it to you faster because at oreillys there are the “special orders.” I avoid oreillys as much as I can now unless an emergency

Step #1 Loosen Brake Fluid Reservoir Cap to prevent seals from reversing themselves, Place a Clean Rag over the Cap and Reservoir should absorb Brake Fluid if it overflows. Brake Fluid is Caustic, that means it will react with Automotive Paint and cause it to wrinkle and complete release from the Substraight.

OCD???... maybe that's my problem. The hardest part for me is cleaning all of the mud and manure and rust and then repaint everything. All of my stuff get full of mud and crap because I have a small ranch. I helped a few friends do their brakes. And it amazes me how fast and easy things are done on city driven clean vehicles.

Powerstop is pretty good the rotors and pads I used when I had my Malibu lasted for 40K miles till I turned it back in for another car

Motorcraft rotors and Centric posi quiet ceramic brake pads for my Lincoln truck. I also cover my wheel hub with copper anti sieze after I wire brush it and spray brake cleaner on it. Great video.

Enjoyed the video... I've always preferred to loosen the bleeder screw before pushing the piston back in. I don't want to push crap back into my brake lines.

Great video, and even learned a few things. Dont agree with the red loctite on the bolts though. Far as the grease, that is how I was taught to do it and never had any issues, but I also grease the backing plates where the piston in the caliber makes contact. Also loosening your brake res cap can make pushing the piston in a tad easier, but be sure to take precautions if you think it may be overfilled and overflow once that space in the system is lessened.

Correct me if I’m wrong, but the brake clips will corrode under the clip on the bracket. I feel that’s were you should put the lube to help with the corrosion and seizing of the pads in the bracket.

The ol’ pad slap...... There is a 50/50 shot when you have someone else do ur brakes. Bout ready to do mine on the grocery getter. Nice vid..

Thanks for the video dad.

You are AWESOME and a WONDERFUL father

Thanks , im a chef driving x5 SUV , now i will know where to look for fault :)

Wagner power stops are actually good pads, I never had any returns when using them.

Very helpful video. Thank you.

I always coat the backs with a little crc anti vibe stuff too - not sure it helps but my brakes are quiet so maybe...

I can tell he was nervous. I love it love the little push.....keep him on his toes

Wow he gotten so big since I first started watching your videos. Keepnup great work

Been running Wagner's for years and had great luck with them on a Full-size Bronco.

Good job. Just like I do! - you need a bigger hammer! Also a good pry bar to leverage tire/wheel back on. Try it!

My order from the fundraiser has already arrived. It's good stuff too! Thanks!

ANOTHER AWESOME VIDEO. BACK WHEN I WAS JUST A TEENAGER (40 YEARS OR SO) I USED TO FIX MY VEHICLES OUT OF NECCESSAITY AS I WAS A KID AND MADE MONEY IN TEXAS BY TRAPPING ,I'D USE FINGER NAIL POLISH FOR THREAD LOCKER AS I HAD A FEW SISTERS AND HAD AN ABUNDANCE OF IT. IT WORKED FINE,ALSO IF I HAD TO COLOR CODE SOMETHING,(LIKE WIRES OR VACUM LINES) SO I KNEW WHERE TO PUT THEM IN THE RIGHT PLACE IT WORKED.. THOUGHT I'D THROW THAT OUT THERE ..I DON'T KNOW IF IT STILL WORKS AS I DON'T MESS WITH SHTUFF ANYMORE . GOD BLESS YOU AND YOUR LOVED ONES STAY SAFE GODSPEED (HOPE THE YOUNG MAN MAKES A TON OF $ FOR HIS CHOIR)

Something I do with new rotors (glad to see you went with drilled and slotted rotors. Huge difference in brake fade!!!) Is I was that scotch bright pad fine on my rotors just to take any kind of coating other than the wax/oil to keep from rusting the rotors. Other than that I do everything exactly the same expert I put antiseze on the lug nuts

For me I use the brake lube under the clips also. That way it doesn't rust under clips

Also helps if you crack the bleeder loose while pressing the caliper piston back with a screwdriver. Keeps any trash that may be in the caliper from going back into the system and allows the piston to move easier.

Two important things are don’t forget to put new brackets in the little metal peace’s the pads slide on and second use brake grease that will 100% stop the squeaks. Put some grease on the brackets where the pads slide on and grease up the piston ring that pushes on the back pad. And check the pins pull them out re grease them make sure they move freely and easy or else you could get a stuck piston and your brakes won’t work. Not a bad idea to bleed the system either and add some new fluid

I stayed in tonight to buy some things for your school Ethan

Good content! You need to do some more videos. They're therapeutic. 👍

Brake fluid change is good to do during a brake job.

Something I do with new rotors (glad to see you went with drilled and slotted rotors. Huge difference in brake fade!!!) Is I use the Fine grade surface conditioning discs on my rotors just to take any kind of coating other than the wax/oil to keep from rusting the rotors. Some have a zinc type coating that will get worn of anyways. (Just don't breath it in just in case) Other than that I do everything exactly the same except I put antiseze on the lug nuts

There are no tricks, no gimmicks or short cuts to doing a brake job. Just do the job correctly and keep safety in mind. Pay attention to what you are doing and don't rush the job.

good job man good video

Up north here ( rust belt )greasing the crap out of the breaks is standard practice I have even seen some shops sand blast where you put the break clips

Someone’s been watching AvE lol

When using a pry-bar to fully seat the caliper piston remove master cylinder cover and remove excess fluid. Else you got a mess on your hands. I also use PB Blaster for rusted caliper pins and Permatex Nevr-Sieze for caliper slides.

Remember kids.Any tool can be a hammer and most tools can be a pry bar.

I love CRC products... for darn sure, but I am not completely sold on PowerStop stuff yet... I had a set that wore out faster than they should have....

good luck with sales Ethan💯

First I always loosen the bleed valve screw and put a rubber hose on with an old oil bottle. Then I decompress the brake caliper to loosen the pad. It will be a lot easier to move the caliper piston and not break the screwdriver/prybar. This will also prevent pushing grime and dirty brake fluid back up in the lines.

Always have had good luck with Wagner thermo Quiet. Only issues I've had is when incorrectly installed or when installed with subpar rotors

Great tips. Only problem I have is the tire lffting tip. It's great if you have good leg strength, but I have arthritis in both knees and some hardware in my hip. All 56 years old.

Who's the old mechanic? Lol great advice. Taking your time is always best. This is why you stay away from any "quick" titled service especially if it is a dealership

Don't you just love it when you don't have to fight to collapse the caliper cylinder(s) to fit over the new pads?👍

I do brake jobs the exact way except the screwdriver pry bar. I use a c-clamp after removing the caliper. Tried Power stop drilled and slotted rotors and they were the worst ever.

Funny how they can do fundraisers now. Good luck kid! Made a donation!

Great video! Got any info/tips for the 2wd superdutys since the wheel bearing is part of the front rotors?

Interesting 🙂

I wish my truck would stay that rust free! If I don't antiseize contact parts there's no hope for getting them back apart. Yay rust belt....

I always tighten my brake bolts to 6 uga-Dugas just for good measure. 😁

i came back to give u a thumbs up

Great video. Never heard of using caliper pin grease on the clips before. Have seen people use anti seize on them. Do you think one would be better over the other just for the fact of not having all the brake dust sticking to it?

I think I’ve got a set of Wagner pads for my truck I bought 2yrs ago for my 95 250, ive since sold my 95 & got a 93 250 & haven’t had to change the pads yet. I drove 8K miles on the 95 & never had to touch the pads. I think my 93 has decent life on the pads left, so might change them soon.

Ordered some venison sticks for me and cookie dough for the girlfriend, good luck with the fundraiser.

I've always been one to wipe down the piston before pushing it back in. Otherwise you could inadvertently push dirt around the piston. Btw, never thought to use a wire brush where the bracket meets the knuckle. Thanks for the tip.

I’m a big fan of the German torque specs!

I had to buy 2 of the jalapeno venison summer sausages. I just ran out of the deer I shot last year And didn't get one this year

As an internet arm chair mechanic I wouldn't lube the stainless steel hardware... I lube the caliper bracket underneath the hardware that you hit with the wire brush! Cuz that's where they rust fam

Agree with everything but using locktite.

Great video. I normally clean all mounting surfaces and slides with a die grinder with a wire brush on it. Then clean everything with break clean and then reassemble with brake grease and loctite as needed. I noticed that you didn't wash the rotor?. I would also like to note that the F450 and 550 breaks look the same as what you showed in your video. But the bolts are larger and I have broken more than one Snap-on socket taking the caliper bracket bolts out.

A mechanic friend recommended opening the purge valve and collect the fluid when returning the piston to avoid fluid backup the line and messing with the ABS sensors readings. Do you agree?

I always used NAPA Seal Glide. Everybody has that one product they use for brakes. As an apprentice, I was told to use this that and the other. Always had comebacks for brake noise. Don't have that problem with Seal Glide

Where I'm most conflicted is, whether or not it's a good idea if possible turn the rotors in a lathe when you replace the pads. I do it a good portion of the time at work. Unless the rotors have had metal on metal contact, excessively rusty, or under spec'd I have to turn them.

You fix brakes like you just met your girlfriend.