Thank you for the comments, and more is to come... how is your pick up , lots of work ?

@@D3Sshooter Thank you for answering me. Yes I bought this truck over 25 years ago, I didn't have the experience, or the equipment to do what I am doing now. The truck started life as a 52 3/4 ton truck, I started dismantling it, I was convinced to trade 2 VW bodies for work on my truck body ( it was bad ).well the VWs were gone, and my truck was in worst shape than when I started, The guy replace it with a 54 wich is similar , but has a one piece windshield, then it sat in my garage for over 25 years,, I have the time, tools, and a lot more experience, OH I have you.. Its not original. But its coming along OK. I'm rambling, so I will stop now. Thank you..

Thanks for the comments Jim, I work in stages as i have multiple projects. There is always a part missing and waiting on those parts, let alone finding them can take a long time

@@D3Sshooter Oh yes I know what you mean, finding original parts can take years sometimes, I rebuilt my old (ish) Yamaha from 1980 problem I found was some of the parts were specific to only my model ! It only took me 4 years to finish ! but it was worth it because I have owned the bike since 1991 looks stunning and pulls like a train😁 I have only just found your videos ! Subscribing right now 👍

Thanks for the comments

Thanks for the comments

Hi Timothy, Thanks for the comments... and I hope to get it running in a few weeks

Thanks for the comments...James. I will provide more detail in the comming video's

Thanks Stevie, I will do my best to get it running again.

Thanks for the comments, my pleasure

Thanks for the comments..., Indeed and that is because the engine is the same as the Traction Avant of which 300.000 cars were build.

Thanks for the comments

Thanks for the comments, more to come

Glad you like them!

Thanks for the comments, and indeed it is as going back in time...knowing that those who build it are long gone.

Thanks for the comments,

Because of the polished surface, the oil film doesnt "stick" very good. Rocket Arms surfaces shouldnt be polished either, becuz of the same problem.

@@biiLL4bonG ehhhhhhhh, this is some dubious advice. However, I'd love to see some science behind it.

​@@christobar It is realitevly hard to explain in englisch for me - and there is a book from Gert Hack - Autos schneller machen - there are a lot of Informations, just google the name.

Thanks for the comments, I try

Thanks for the nice comments, I try to keep things simple.... enjoy. P.S I have many Polish friends at work.

Thanks for the comments, and yes I got a few new pieces .. But not all that expensive... some are good quality others a bit less .. but then again the price was very low...

@@D3Sshooter As long as they do the job thats all that matters. Tools can be extremely expensive. You have a lot to do with old rusty but its such a worthwhile historical project and you are the perfect custodian for this vehicle. Superb restoration so far. 👍

Thanks for the comments

Thank you! Cheers!

Thanks Chris, indeed I love to bring back things that are totally destroyed or left behind... the good thing is that with this old stuff there are many ways to rebuild it. Not like with modern things, that can't be fixed

Thanks for the comments,

Heavy Metal is fine. Techno sucks.

Thanks for the comments

Thanks for the comments

Thanks for the comments, much appreciated

Thank you

Thank you! Cheers!

Thanks for the commentsTom, and sorry to hear about your dog...

Thanks for the comments, I try to share what I know and for the rest I have a thick skin lol , so I do not get upset about those specific comments

Thanks for the comments and tips.

Thanks for the comment

Thanks for the comments

Thanks for the comment, you can still find them for low prices but lots of work

@@D3Sshooter Yes sir I know, I am not affraid of work. Last year i bought Iveco Daily III (in fact it was not that old its from 2002 but that things attracts rust as hell, it was pretty cheap 1,800 £ and mechanically in good condition and its frame is "C" Channel instead of tubing that means it was much easier to clean and rust protect it for me. Whole "front wheel area" was rusted and needed fixing, place where battery is in engine bay was also in bad condition. One of tension rods was broken and of course paint was needed. I made it and convert it for towing vehicle. Now i am using it with that feeling.. You know how its like to save something from decay this is amazing, isnt it? . Whole thing took me 1 month from body work to painting. I think it was worth it. Sorry for English, it isnt my native.

Thanks, Indeed I am getting the cranckshaft re-grinded and polished and balanced. . Great to see that you have MF . I also use my MF 35 every week in the garden . I love old style engines although I am an electroncis engineer

Thanks for the comment, its not that hard. Simple and strong technology

Thanks for the comments

Thanks for the comments, and I love you text...

Thanks for the comments

Thanks for the comments

Thanks for the comments Nick

Thanks for the comments

txs for the comments

Reminds me of the bearing shells in old Caterpillar tractor engines from the 40’s and 50’s. They had a lot of beef to them too.

Thanks, and indeed those ate thick and called white metal

Indeed, and this engine is from the same period

I was surprised to see no primer used....

hahaha

I now, the paint according to the datasheet does not require a primer... and is good for temperatures upto 170 degree centigrade. What do you use John as primer on an engine block ?

Thanks for the comments

Thanks for the comments

Thanks for the comments,

Thanks!

Thanks for the comment, that explains the black paint. Great comment

Thanks for the comments, not the first engine I did

Thanks for the comment

Thanks for the comments

Thanks for the comments, any video's of it ?

Thanks for the comments, its coming

Thanks for the comments... as for the 125 , mine is a injection model so no carburettor...

@@D3Sshooter Oh. That makes sense. So mine is probably too. Thank you!

txs for the comments

Thanks for the comments, agreed

Thanks for the comments

Thanks for the comments..., thrift store

It looks entirely too nice for power washing an engine block :P

Thanks for the comments

yes, it's renovated.

Thank you for the comments, graag gedaan

That is a CV-11 , the same as in the Traction Avant

Thank you for your answer sir.

Thanks for the comments, it will not fail , this is very simple mechanical stuff . nothing fancy..

Christ they don't come much simpler than a 1950s 4cyl, 3main bearing .,wet liner cast iron block engine .

@@geraldswain3259 , yep indeed

Thanks, en voor HBM. Bepaalde items zijn wel OK. Maar veel andere chinese import is inderdaad rommel en de prijs is dan wel heel laag

Indeed, and now that its painted you will see in the next video the second rinse and oilchannel cleaning , just to make sure that all grid is gone. I had a video take in this video showing all the blanking of the oil galleries and machined area's , but I did forget to put the sound on... SO I left it out in the video... good catch, txs

Yes, I would say it is worth emphasizing for newbies that after sandblasting (or even just cleaning with solvent), you have to do a quite thorough job of trying to get rid of all of that grit. Small amounts of grit can be bad news for your new bearings.

@@DNomer Indeed

Blasted engines only fail because "professional" reconditioners fail to flush out oil ways and retention areas, they start out new being blasted, but too many people come up with this scare story, they usually heard it from a bloke in the pub whose second cousin had that problem!

That is not an issue, you might have noticed that I used very fine garnet garnet 330, and that I have blocked of all oil galleries and machined area's.. Blasting was only on the outside of the block and the water galleries. Now that it is painted, I will flush the oil galleries once more and remove all possible grid if any. You will see that in another video... Going wild and blasting allover the engine including machined area's with grid like garnet is not a good idea and should not be done.

Thanks , Englishman indeed as you stated ..

Thanks for the comment

Thanks for the comments, I use tickopur R33

Thanks for the comments...

Thanks for the comments, with this kind of old engines a 0.01mm will do. Of course a 0.001 is better but then again we are not building a race engine. Just make sure that you have good quality and percise calibration blocks.

Thanks for the comments, I think that this is not am issue as the followers are flat and cover the entire cam lobe. the pushrods sit in the followers

@@D3Sshooter Very good. I know you are well versed. Just didn't want something simple being overlooked.

Thanks for the comments, D33, sorry for the late reply

Thanks for the comment, Vlaanderen is my region. And polisher is from toolmania

@@D3Sshooter Ah okay, thanks for responding. Keep up the good work! Je maakt leuke videos, erg interessant.

Thanks for the comments, I need to say that I have no experiences with that methods..

I got the paste from HLM machines and the polisher from tool mania. Both in the Nederlands with a webshop for global shipping.

@@D3Sshooter thank you

Indeed John, I have looked at it in detail and it was caused by surface rust..

@@D3Sshooter I've been loving the old Rusty videos and have been looking forward to this one a whole lot. Thanks for sharing all of them. Surface rust is a pain to control over here I normally coat my engine parts I have to store long term in chassis tube grease it's very messy but last longer than anything else I've found. Of course that doesn't help parts already affected when you get them.

Thanks for the comments, hi well that is easy I have the old workshop manual...

Thanks for the comments

Thanks for the comments, I see

Ronald Church yep, my old one died on me after 13 years

Yes indeed as far as I could trace back/ this one was painted later with black

If I have time , I will

Thanks for the comments, hahaha

@@D3Sshooter i'm glad you took it as a compliment! you should :)

@@JoeHynes284 i am not hating i think its really cool

Thanks for the comments, hahaha

Thanks for the comments , on the back page ...lol

@@D3Sshooter Need to do a photo shoot with Rusty when done, like the Phase one with all the pretty people.

Thanks for the comments..., It will... what can go wrong ? Its simple and straight forward technology from the old days

Thanks for the comments, battery and electronics is a piece of cake for me as an electronics engineer

Very soon

@@D3Sshooter Can't wait to see more , this is one of your best project's, I think. So different to all the modern mechanical gear.

Thanks for the comments, that is what I suspected

Hi dave. This truck as far as i can check is 1949. Its the u23. And indeed some parts like the engine are common with the traction avant. But it would be great if you had parts

@@D3Sshooter I have 2 hulk's I need to recycle. What's stopping me is they both have a lot of usable components like doors, fenders, trunk lids, glass, and body sections which are usable. In other areas I have several 19 engines. Of course shipping from California for heavy stuff is prohibitive but I believe 11 parts are readily available.

I'll add that despite decades of weather exposure, I see much less rust in most areas of my 11s than in Old Rusty. The exception is the floor boards which are essentially gone as the cars had windows down and were outside for 30 or 40 years...

Thanks for the comments..., no Pinto in this truck... want to keep it original... I will rebuild a Pinto for the super seven

Thanks for the comments, hahaha not a good idea

Thanks for the comments,

Thanks for the comments, I hope not... PS it is still not back from the shop.. who knows

@@D3Sshooter If he keeps it that long, it is either that he has a lot of work at the moment, or that the crankshaft has a big problem...

Thanks for the comment

Thanks for the comments

Hillside Projects because i am an old guy. And all the stuff i work on is old. Except the Elise. Haha

Thanks for the comments , yes indeed as I am using very low pressure and not such an aggressive grit

Thanks for the comments, you are right , a hot tank - ultrasonic is the best. Yet blasting with a small garnet grit 330 on the external side only and not in any oil galleries or machined area's is IMO not an issue. I shoud have mentioned that in the video. In fact I had a video take on how I masked everything and what I was about to blast. I just forgot to put the sound up... so I left it out of the video.

Bullshit you dont want to have peaks on your surface material. aka you want to have a polished surface. oil film is only a thin layer between to surfaces rubbing agaisnt each other, Only pressure and flow matter. and of course how much load there is applied.

Thanks for the comment, i disagree polishing reduces the wear and tear. It allows for a very thin and smooth oil gliding film. Think about ski, try it with rough none waxed skies and polished wax skies.

Thanks for the comment, i agree

@@TheBlabla1996 You can believe what you want, but its not true. Car Manifactures have done this Test, may before you were born. You need a good surface finish but NEVER a polished one. And even further, if you want to improve your knowledge, ask SCHRICK in germany. They do NOT polish their Cams... there is a reason for it. So, dont talk if you dont know what you are talking about.

Skiers and Camshaft.. sorry but this is the baddest comparison i have ever heard.

Thanks for the comments

haha, now I see what you mean... maybe its me