You’re welcome!

Thanks so much!

Oh thank you so much 😊

Ah thank you and thank you!!

Thank you!!

Ah thanks so much!

Oh my! I have just one wisteria but I’m thinking about getting a couple more. They’re so beautiful! Thanks for watching!

Thanks so much! We definitely thought with how large ours was going to be, 4x4s would just look dinky.

I hope he’s just as handy as his dad 😊

Thanks so much! It’s a feat for sure. Especially with 6x6 and I’m just sure glad it’s done 😆

Exactly! Especially with lumber costs sky rocketing, everything is just getting more and more expensive so save where you can!

@@olivegreyavenue Thank you!

Same here! I actually went back and looked at the size online and it did say 5.5x5.5 but it wasn’t!

It is actually nominal lumber, though normal makes sense 😉

They are 1/2” lag bolts!

@@olivegreyavenue Thanks for the reply. To go through the brick and hit the rim joist. what was the length of them

@@steveaguiar1we got 7” screws but we measured the width of the brick, the open gap and then thorough the rim joist. It needs to stick out 1” on the other side of the rim joist from what we read. I wouldn’t say all brick is the same.

We sealed it with outdoor silicone

@@olivegreyavenue thank you!! Love the look of your pergola! I’m getting ready to attach to my house and wanted to make sure I protected the home.

@@jesse6731 you’re welcome! Thanks for watching and good luck to you!

Aww I agree he’s the cutest!

I believe everywhere could be a little different so I’d check with your local building codes but I think generally if it’s attached to your house you will need a permit. We were told that if it were freestanding then you don’t need a permit.

@@olivegreyavenue I will look into it, thank you for the information!

We got lag bolts! I believe they were 1/2" lag bolts but they fit the holes of the bracket perfectly.

@@olivegreyavenue Thank you!!!

It looks like they used zinc coated bolts, which are okay. What you really should use are galvanized bolts, which are more resistant to rusting. You really should use J-bolts, but won’t find them with the other bolts. Home Depot, etc stock them with the rebar, concrete etc. Probably on the other side of the lumber. They have a hook on the end that resists being pulled out of the concrete. Also be sure you have an inch or three between the bolts and the edge of the concrete or the concrete will be prone to breaking away.

Thanks! The tall one is almost 12’ tall and about 10’ wide and the shorter one is about 10’ tall and the span is about 15’.

@@olivegreyavenue Excellent! thank you. I figured it was more than 9', but finally somebody goes higher than the "by the book" instructions. I have a tri-level modern deck and want to put the pergola spanning 2 the levels, the lower level posts, need to compensate the height difference. Love it!

@@yvanahernandez great! Glad I could help 😊

It was pretty precise in planning and no deck will be built here.

Yes we did!

Thank you! It is very doable. Good luck with yours!

4 or 6” beams?

@@olivegreyavenue Sorry about that, yes 4' or 6" beams.

@@donaldfennell971 yes, toja grid has free standing kits for 4” or 6” beams

I’m not sure what the diagonal dimension is from outside of the bolt to outside of the bolt, but do check. To keep the concrete from breaking away at the bolt, there needs to be a minimum of one inch of concrete outside the bolt if the bolt is completely above ground and 3” of cover if it’s below ground. An alternative to the sono tube if you can’t get one big enough in diameter is to use pairs of 8x8x16 blocks in at least two layers. It’s also a good idea to put rebar in the footer to handle any tensile forces when the earth inevitably moves. Concrete is horrible in tension.

I’m sorry you found out later on. Last I checked, they do disclose that it should be nominal lumber sizes on their website.

@@olivegreyavenue Thanks! They really should make their joints to actually fit, It's really misleading imo.....On their packaging it says 6x6 not 5 1/2 x 5 1/2, I ordered mostly everything from lowes and had it delivered like you guys, Hard lesson learned.

@@samln5019 yeah I totally get it! I think it’s because most wood will say 2x4 but be 1.5x3.5 so they designed their brackets the same way so I was expecting the wood to be 5.5 not 6 😅

@@olivegreyavenue And to add another heartbreak, I paid $350 more than your cost, just for one 12' x 8' cell with the angled peak trio 30 roof celing joints. So the joint kit, 8 8-footers, and 3-12 footers, Granted it's still less than some contractors out there, but prices have definitely gone up since 2020

@@samln5019 they sure have!

We live in central Texas. Thank you!

@@olivegreyavenue thanks for your reply!

It’s all cedar

Yes that’s why he tried that at 16:33 and that’s how he did the rest of them

So my husband says 😂

Thanks so much! We’re happy with it so far!

Oh, I’m not sure if you missed that part but he did it with the circular saw first and then tried the router. The router was much quicker than the circular saw so that’s what he used.

I'm planning on using a handheld electric planer.

Hey guys, we ran into the same problem yesterday with the plain pressure treated 6x6 posts and the metal brackets. I tried both methods (circular saw and router). After cutting one post with the circular saw to a large toothpick and another 2 posts with the router 1/4" depths x 7", I just knew something was a miss here. We decided why not just use the router and round the edges? Guess what? It worked just fine. Use the metal bracket side that has no holes to line up the bracket to the 6x6 post. The inside corners of the metal brackets are rounded. We found that there's no need to chip away all that timber, just round the post corners for 7".

Miguel - What you are referring to works if you have dimensional lumber, which is basically planed in the factory and 1/2” smaller. That’s why a 2x4 is actually 1.5” x 3.5”. In their case, she commented that they had rough sawn cedar which would be a full 6” x 6” and needed the 1/4” removed from all sides.

Anything professionally done would have been $15-22k! Check out Costco, any little pergola they have is the same price, is not as big and is made of cheap materials. Wood is the major cost in this these days. You can make it cheaper with treated lumber but cedar is worth the extra $$ to make it last!

Just finished a pergola using dimensional pressure treated 6x6s and some Toja-like fittings from Amazon. No fancy laser letter cut-outs, but less than half the price! Could have saved a bunch on the wood if I'd bought it a week earlier as well!

@@Standeck heindsight is 50/50 huh!

22k???? can you send me a link to that company?...

Thank you!!

I’m pasty, this is the only place I have the costs outlined.

Hey, thanks for the comment. Are you talking about the wood slats?

@@olivegreyavenue hi! No I'm talking about the width of the poly panels. You said you got them from the manufacturer, do they produce the panels to your specs or are they standard widths?

@@piratetaylor29 we didn’t use any poly panels in our pergola build. We used the Toja grid brackets and cedar lumber.

Thank you!

Thanks!

Technically, “J-bolts”. Also wise to use galvy bolts instead of the shiny zinc bolts. Much greater rust resistance.

So when getting quotes for pergolas from companies, they explained about the structures being rated for ‘lift’. To put a solid roof of whatever material to make it waterproof, you would need to factor in for lift. This is where we bowed out on that topic

I used cedar

@@olivegreyavenue thank you!

I actually rebuilt them! I don't need that much seating or storage so the plants suit me better :)

Like I mentioned in the video, the kit is toja grid and I don’t remember the cost but I mentioned how much it was at the end of the video.

His parents are from Nicaragua 😊

Definitely go for it if that’s what you have found. In our research we heard no such things.

Tape is not required, but it is a good idea. Cedar is a rot resistant wood, but it will rot. The tape would help, but you are also using moisture treatment, which is good. The research I’ve done shows Thompson to be an accepted name but not the best. It likely wears off in a year or two. You might consider trying a penetrating oil. We’ve had really good results with ours, which is what I’ve found from others as well.

They ended up around 11’ to meet the house at the rim joist

@@olivegreyavenue how were you able to find where your rim joist are behind the brick? Thanks in advance!

@@vernonwilliams4927 that’s a good question! Basically, we measured from the top of the window to the ceiling in our living room and then from the bottom of the window to the floor upstairs. Then we took those measurements outside and got an area between those measurements that we were assuming was the rim joist 😅

@@olivegreyavenue ah ok sounds good. Is it usually safe to assume that the Tim joist is between your floors in a two story home? What hardware did you use to secure to the joist?

@@vernonwilliams4927 I’d say so but make sure to look up building codes in your area because homes are built differently in different places. And the hardware we used were just lag bolts that were long enough to go through the rim joist plus an inch.

It’s about 11’ off the ground

Lumber for sure!

@@olivegreyavenue damn!!. I guess I would stick to 4x4 instead lol

That really stinks! The ones we got are extremely sturdy and wouldn’t bend if we tried. Learning that they aren’t rated for lift, which is what I understand you’d need for a roof could definitely be a deciding factor but we knew that we didn’t want a roof of any kind. Sorry about your negative experience!

😂😂

Hahah we’re here now 😉

Pregnant weightlifters do so safely and there are lots of factors. Just don’t comment on pregnant women 👌🏻

@@olivegreyavenue 😆

I’ve never heard it pronounced any other way 🤔

If 2020 taught us one thing, that’s it! Thanks for watching and commenting!