Thank you

Glad it was helpful!

Hope it comes in soon! You are going to love it!

Thank you for watching

Thank you and congrats on your om1

Thank! Glad it is helpful and congratulation on you OM-1!

Glad it is helpful.

Thank you for sharing your settings! I like that you have a moon setting. I haven't photographed the moon for a while so maybe one of my goals for this summer.

The lever? As in film camera? Let me know and I will try to help.

That is a pretty good deal too!

Thank you for clarifying this… I thought I had made a horrible mistake in not noticing I had not got the flash :). V plsd with the 5 year guarantee though.

Hi Scott. I do need to update my gear list on my website. I have the 12-100mm pro since last summer and absolutely love this lens for traveling. I am not much of a landscape and portrait photographer so I do not own the 12-40mm and only use the 12-100. But I have heard that the 12-40mm f2.8 is a favorite lens for many. Do you have it?

@@EmilieT I have neither. I'm in the midst of switching from full frame to m43 / OM Systems but stuck waiting for my OM-1 at the moment. I ordered the kit with the discounted 12-40 f2.8 but I'm thinking of changing the order to just the body and then buy the 12-100 for my all-around lens. I've always been a wide to short telephoto zoom + super telephoto zoom + a few primes for low light kind of photographer. I'm mostly an outdoor/landscape/wildlife/graden photographer so I think the 12-100 will be fine for me but not sure whether I'll miss a little less DoF between the m43 DoF being less and the difference between 2.8 and 4. The body-only seems more available lately but saving $200 by buying the 12-40 with the body is attractive if I end up wanting it. Decisions, decisions. I'm moving to m43 to be even more mobile and for some of the computational capabilities with the OM-1. The appeal of fewer lenses, fewer lens changes in the field, and a lighter overall kit is leaning me towards 12-100. Thanks for sharing how much you like the 12-100 for travel. I photograph more when I travel than close to home. With my Nikon's I've used the 18-200 on APS-C and the 28-300 on full frame more than any other lenses and they are not as sharp as the OM Systems 12-100. Also thanks for this particular video. I suspect my C1-C4 will be pretty similar to yours so this was very helpful.

Great question. 200 is what is recommended for best results but I rarely shot wildlife at 200 ISO. I am very often way higher. Especially nowadays with all the improvements.

ca va dépendre de beaucoup de choses mais en général, je peux passer une journée avec une batterie.

Both cards are recording identical information but if I have a 64GB and a 125GB as my second card, if my 1st card is full, the second card can still record images.

I know that in Europe the flash is not included but you get a crazy long warranty. The charger is not included. You just get the cable and plug for the wall.

Thank you Emilie. Keep the vlogs coming. Enjoying them greatly.

@@vanessaprice-adams5001 Thank you so much Vanessa!

No, if you start it, it should tell you that a new version is out and you just follow the process.

I use this setting for birds in flight but also for bird not flying and for bird detection it is best to use all focus points. In my experience it works well with a clean background but also with a busier background hence ESP. Depending on my subject I might over exposed or underexposed.

@@EmilieT Did a test this morning. Juvenile Barnswallow on a pole while mom was hovering above the baby. The af-point kept bouncing between the two birds when using bird detection....... Succes rate less than 5 %.... ESP? I do not get ESP since it measures the whole frame...... I want to measure the amount of light on my subject and adjust the exposure accordingly..

@@ArnaudSiemons If you have two birds and one is more active than the other, you will have that issue. I usually switch to CAF with one focusing point to 5 focusing points in this scenario. The settings I gave are my starting points and something I can switch on and off fast to get a shot. I find that ESP gives me the best results paired with exposure compensation most of the time as a bird in flight can give you a very different exposure reading depending on how the light hits the birds and where your reading will be (think shadow). That is why I just use ESP and exposure compensation. I do use spot metering too in some scenarios. That is my C2 settings.

@@EmilieT Thank you. Always good to learn from a different approach.

@@ArnaudSiemons Thank you for your questions. As you said, it is great to learn from different approaches and try them in the field in different scenarios to see what works best.

Thanks for catching it