Hey rob! Thanks buddy! I appreciate that! Thanks for always watching! I’m glad you get useful tips and learn something! That’s my goal!

Have a great holiday! Enjoy! Thanks for watching

Thank you!

I appreciate it! Yes it is somewhat of a Piro flip but not really a Pirro foot. I don’t know I just did it one day and I liked it so I continued it lol

@@westhobbiesrc8051 I keep trying but it looks like a pirro funnel than any flip:(

I greatly appreciate that! I hope you and your family have a very merry Christmas as well! And get some flying in!

I greatly appreciate it! Thank you! Merry Christmas to you and yours as well! Stay safe! Thanks for watching!

It looks great! And very durable! I had one crash with it and not even a scratch. I really like that it has fiberglass reinforcement where the grommets go

That is a good idea! But I can tell you what will happen lol Stock blades will break in a crash just as much as the carbons will break in a crash but! I have had crashes with carbon bleeds on another helicopters and not break them on smaller machines like the blade 180 I had carbon blades on and had a couple crashes where I just picked it up and kept flying. Every crash is different so it’s so hard to duplicate it. Because I could go out and crash it 10 times in a row on video and then somebody have the same exact crashes me and break theirs. So it’s a hard video to make just because of that but would definitely be interesting to know.

@@westhobbiesrc8051 I'll hold the camera for ya! LOL

I’m sure you would lol maybe if I get another M2 just for testing I’ll do some stuff like that lll

Merry Christmas to you as well! So battery usage was slightly more with the carbon blades. I landed at 3.6 V Per cell and 3.78 with the 175mm blades.

Merry Christmas to you as well! Hope you have a good morning. Thank you for watching!

@@westhobbiesrc8051 my 470 LP finally arrived 🙂 there are some preassembled parts like the head and rear rotor assembly and main gear/pulley. Do I have to take these apart and grease the specified spots or are they already pregreased? And: did they at the factory put thread locker on those screws? A bit confusing.

@@Abszurdista-fatalista awesome! So yes you’re gonna wanna pull all of that completely apart. Greece and Loctite everything that needs to be greased and Loctite it. The manual even tell you to pull it apart. It is just assembled so there’s not a ton of parts everywhere but nothing is tight or lactated or greased.

@@westhobbiesrc8051 hm... on those pages the manual says: "Original manufactory packages contains product already assembled, please confirm every scew is firmly secured with T43. Do not use T43 on any plastic part". So this tells me I only have to check, doesn't it? I'm getting even more confused 😕 But there is one bag, 470HT4, where it says on the bag "the metal Tail Rotor Holder is false assembly in the factory, make sure to apply little glue on screws and tighten them back appropriately before starting to fly. ..." An other thing that is not clear is where to use the not included R48 retainer fluid. I mean nowhere in the entire manual does it say to use it on any part. The main shaft bearings look like they are all nicely placed into the plastic bearing blocks. Why does the manual say at the beginning then that R48 is required for assembly. It is not required at all, right? A last question, this time about oil and grease. Is it okay to use silicone oil and grease where needed? I've got a few different viscosity silicone oil for my RC car diffs and shockdampeners. The 100k diffoil I need to squeeze out with a vice, I guess that should work as "grease"?

@@Abszurdista-fatalista so yes you were gonna wanna completely disassemble the head and tail assembly and use Loctite to make sure it is assembled properly and Loctite it properly. They are just screwed together with no Loctite. Personally what I do is I put all the screws and rubbing alcohol and it cleans all the machining oil off. It gives you an incredible bond of the lockdown. The lockdown is enough to do the entire helicopter you only need tiny amounts per screw. Remember only Loctite screws that are going in metal! No loctite and any screw that is going into plastic. You can use medium CA if need be. Now is for as oil and Greece, you want a grease like wheel bearing something fully synthetic. You only need to pack the thrust bearings with grease in a tiny amount on the shafts after assembly just to help everything slide perfectly. I go over a lot of it in the 470 build videos. As far as oil, I just use a silicone three in one oil I put a drop into every bearing. I’ve never used the diff oil so not sure. The bearings that are in the bearing blocks can stay. They are plastic no need to put any kind of retaining on them.

Thank you! I appreciate it, the boom is vinyl wrapped. I get the vinyl off Amazon. You get many different colors.

Yes stock blades are a composite plastic mix and very stuff but still have slight flex when flying high head speed and hard cyclic. Carbon will always be stronger and better then any plastic/composite blade. It’s not a “people wanna flaunt” thing but a stronger blade is always better. I’ll choose Carbon all day over any plastic blade.

@@westhobbiesrc8051 Yeah, but isn't there the chance that carbon fiber could just shatter under under hard cyclic load? I have always been under the impression that carbon fiber blades would shatter if you pushed them too hard with hardcore 3-D maneuvers.

What’s up buddy, so what is inexpensive and what is serious speed? I do have a lot of very fast airplanes and prices range as inexpensive and speed really don’t go together for say but there is ways to go fast for relatively cheap. And what is your definition of a kit are you looking for a balsa or composite model? Or a foam model?

@@westhobbiesrc8051 anything really, I want something fast, don’t mind the material and I want something that isn’t ridiculously expensive. No worries if you don’t have anything in mind, oh, and merry Christmas 🎄

@@sams0748 okay so there is a few different options, you can go with a Funjet, check out my Funjet rebuild video to see what has to be done for crazy speed. Flight video will be out Monday. You can get a Eflite V1200 change ESC and prop to a APC 10x12 and get a good 170mph plane for relatively cheap. You can go full composite F5D models. What is you speed range? Merry Christmas!

Hello! I’ve never tired those blades on the M1, but! If hey fit the grips and are not to long them use them. They will work!

Hello! I’m running a DSMX Satellite