You're very welcome :D

Well cheers! 🍻

Very true but only for your own personal use, and even then a properly presupported stl file is better to have than storing the sliced file for your specific printer. For distributing presupported stl files you definitely want to ensure people can just slice it with their own profile for their own printer without having to worry about UV tools workflow, as most people getting into 3D printing for miniatures certainly do not run their slices through UV tools. If you're just supporting something for yourself though, and don't mind storing the sliced file somewhere or running it through UV tools everytime you want to print it then sure that's a valid way to approach it as well.

Haha well I hope you enjoy good sir! You're probably the last person who needs this video, but I very much appreciate you checking it out all the same :) If you spot anything I missed or have any useful tips and tricks to add then please don't hesitate to share!

@@OnceinaSixSide oh I am a firm believer that you can never be so good at something that you can't improve. I'm always excited to hear how others have refined a process to make it work for them. I always learn something useful. 😊

@@SlicePrintRoleplay Very true, we should all be life long students :D

Much appreciated!

You are very welcome!

Much appreciated!

Me too! Thanks for your comment :)

Glad it was helpful!

You're welcome sir

His "heavy" supports are more like medium supports in the slicer preset. He is not using stock settings. His light support has contact of 0,26mm, medium 0,45 mm and heavy are 0,55mm. Contact depth of 0,2mm for each.

Much appreciated!

Hey no problem! Glad you found it valuable. You can get the model as a reward for joining Gamza's Patreon.

Thank you!

Thanks for stopping by :) Yeah big bases can be a hit or miss, at the very least providing a base topper in addition to an all-in-one would be great to see.

BTW I did watch all the way through and you did a great job of show don't tell when it came to illustrating why success through failure is important with these sorts of projects.

@@DanielVisOneCade Thank you very much! I'm glad to hear it :) Part of me wanted to edit that out and just show deliberating on the orientation, then cut to deciding on the right one but in the end I figured it was better to leave failure in.

To do this manually is really simple. Download blender (free) Open the file, make a cyclinder and type in the correct dimensions. Run a "boolean" cut using your cyclinder as a cutter into the big printed base. You have now hopefully created your base topper.

Thanks! Truthfully I'm not as knowledgeable in FDM printers, but I could certainly share what I know regarding support blockers at some point for sure.

Not in my experience, I just shelled out for the pro version and I'm still getting quite a lot of 10+ pixel islands even when using "real" mode detection.

The skate is supported by the build-plate. A flat plane away from the build plate is only supported by tiny little support tips. Imagine the cured resin isn't solid, but bendy and visualize whats going to happen to the flat bendy thing getting pulled on by lots of little points versus being pulled on across its entire surface area. I have another video that covers this with some animations

Thanks! Great question, I should probably make a video on why you can't rely on auto supports but essentially they're unreliable because they won't get every island which risks resin curing to the fep and not the rest of the model. A lot of times as the following layers cure, those little bits of resin will attach to the model and come away from the fep but this is not guaranteed. Auto supports give you no variation in settings either relative to the volume of the island they're trying to support as far as I'm aware, and do have a tendency to place supports where they're not even needed creating unnecessary scarring on the model. Basically if you want the best results and you want to be damn sure nothing gets left behind in your vat then do it manually.

​@@OnceinaSixSide Thanks bro keep up the videos coming

Sorry to hear it's been so frustrating for you. I came from using an FDM printer and it took me a little bit to wrap my head around the concept that I had to think about how the figure would need to be supported printing upside down. I would honestly stick with medium supports until you get an idea of when to use which supports. I look at the model from underneath and set the sliders on the right in ChituBox all the way down and then start to move them up and place support in places where the part of the model appear by themselves. You have to think of those little parts that start to show up as floating in the air and they need a support to hold them in place.I don't know if you have looked at 3DPrintingPro's channel because his videos break it down pretty well. 3D print weather it be FDM or resin is a learning process of trial and error at times You can also try auto-supports and while they are not 100% accurate you can run it and then move the sliders in the slicer beginning from the bottom to the top to get an idea of how the supports are attached by paying attention how it places the supports as parts of the layers begin to show up. Don't give up yet. I don't think you don't understand it because you can't get it, you just haven't found the right teacher yet.

I did at the beginning of the video, there's no direct link to share for this model as far as I'm aware but as I said in the video you can get it by signing up to Commisar gamza's petreon.

@@OnceinaSixSide a link to the patreon then. I know you shouted it out but I looked and couldn't find. Keep up the great work tough loving the content

Yes, sorry I should have mentioned that in Chitubox the setting 'Contact Diameter' appears to actually have no effect at all on the supports. Just pay attention to contact depth, upper diameter, and lower diameter.

@@OnceinaSixSide All clear. Thanks

@@artineogda You're welcome!

Disclaimer: I have no idea about printing except for what I saw on this channel and the explanation in another comment why autosupport is not ideal. But regarding calculating where supports should be: while it is true that we could program the size and number as well as position of supports such that it will print well the downside is time and computation power. It is basically a problem with a load of variables where, as explained in the video, no single best solution can be found. Printing the torso/head right side up or upside down can both be correct but not necessarily best. The other thing is that to optimize the computation for where to put supports would need to include the whole 3D model, we could even go so far as to compute or at least guess the peelig and suction forces. All of that would be possible and we could have a well supported model. However to reduce computation time needed as well as not limiting this to people with the beefiest computers we need to make compromises. Otherwise it could take hours to have a well supported model and you would be faster to just do it by hand. The other danger is that the program would over support the model to be 'ideal' and you end up with problems where you have too many supports and the model will have scaring or you cannot remove the supports easily. But still a good question and I guess somebody with more coding experience than I have could work out a code that would improve the autosupport feature. Or at least give the option to put the most necessary supports in.

Oh no! First thing to do is rule out the printer and resin as a problem as even well supported minis will fail if your settings aren't dialed in. I suggest running a range finder test (RERF) if its an Anycubic machine, or if Elegoo or other Dennys Wang's test model is a nice fast print to dial your exposure time in with. Lift speed is the other big variable too that can lead to failures on properly supported files. If we can rule out the print settings then we know its the supports that will need work.