Fantastic Bill, youve done a wonderful job on it. Knew it was in a bit of a mess, but was confident you could get it going. Love the quiet running, looks fantastic next to yours. Cant thank you enough for your help. Cheers Gerry

Well done Bill. That brush component goes to prove that glue isn't the best of conductors! Hope the owner now has many happy hours running his Class 37. Thanks once more and great repair.

Quite a thorough “Workout” with that one - just about covers everything that would need doing. Loved seeing the two running together. Well done

Great job! Lovely to see this running again.

I just looked up the release date for this model and realised that this was the first locomotive I got in 1977! Interesting you mention sparks as mine used to spark like hell which was a bit scary for a six year old lol!!

Nice to see your videos back on KZfaq after such a long time. Looking forward hopefully to some new stuff if you’re able to. Have a Merry Christmas Bill 👍🎂🍷🍷

What a result😄 I’ve been ripping my hair out with a bad running “bargain” off of ebay. I have a Triang Class 31 it runs like a bag of nails... i have actually found three Track pins in the Bogie assembly whilst stripping it down I just can’t get the thing to run smooth. Was really gutted not had anything this old before but it’s beyond my skill set to fully repair... one day I will get her going again

So much patience good work

You are a clever chap! You are lucky to have been blessed with nibble fingers,where as i have big old sausage fingers :)

I have one of these, got to love the growl from the motor, almost sounds like a real 37.

great work resoldering the bruss regards sam woodward

8H22. The only running number I ever remember. Have one of these in a BR Royal Mail set. Love this. Even the sound!

Great video. 👍😃

I have one of these. It has little traction without a steel track underneath. Mine has been converted to DCC and sound. It was very noisy and I traced that to the nylon armature bearings. I rolled up some thin brass sheet and inserted it into the bearings to quiet the growl.

Those spider motors have a distinctive sound. I have two locos both the A1-A1. Running both on my layout is quite noisey. Still enjoy running them!

Hi great video thanks

I quit smoking in 1998 , now thirty years later I know what to do with my ash trays !

I enjoy your videos. I found that the back of the motor bogie wheels can touch the traction magnet if the wheel back to back measurement is too small. This probably causes the sparking, Sometimes turning the traction magnet over helps with wheel clearance.

Looka good bill! But it's very quiet

The flux capacitors always need upgrading on these vintage trains.

I originally thought the bogies on the model had been exchanged at some point for some spare ones off a class 50 as the cab steps are in the incorrect position. The reverse was quite evident on some withdrawn 50s as the cast bogies were reused leaving the withdrawn loco on a set of fabricated 37 bogies with the steps incorrectly positioned. A quick image search however shows thats how this model was made... they must of just used an existing production bogie design off a 50 already produced. An interesting video and I can tell you its a lot easier cleaning the amarture and comm on something this size then on the full size locos.

gosh that was a labour of love. I would have let that one go..

I enjoy your repairs. On this motor, where did you put that little bit of insulation? I have one of these models, I’m trying to repair for a mate.

For of those having heart palpitations with using a rotary wire brush the wheels are sintered iron hard as hell you won't damage them.

When you suddenly used the power tool I jumped out of my skin. Any viewers with a heart condition?

Lol. Someone glued the brush back on.

Hi Bill Just been watching this old Triang R751 of which I have one. The body still being in good condition rest of the loco most is okay. No picks from the trailing bogie still plastic wheels.. I did look at wondering if this could be converted to DCC. Seems not possible with ease. Any ideas Thanks great videos you seem to have a knack to keep these units going.

Bill both the green and black wires are lying loose at the motor end in my model. Can you tell me where these solder to as I couldn't make it out on the video. Thanks.

Now we need to know how to fit a dcc chip to it.???? Any ideas.??

The bogies on this early model are actually Brush type two bogies ( class 31 ) so are wrong , cost saving

I have one of these, but a later one as mine has BR TOPs number, doesn't go anymore :-(

You could add a little T-Cut to the paper.

I've got an R751, my 1978 Christmas prezzie and it has a ringfield motor. That looks considerably different. A replacement from an older model?

I have an identical version, can traction tyres be fitted to this model? Good video though.

I have that exact same train and it just stopped working and I'm not sure how to get it working again. any tips?

Good morning Bill, as I cannot get in touch with Chambs123 do you have a source for the machined flange wheels?

Hi I have a Lima class 43 witch looks like someone has tried to repair it and I was wondering if you could look at it for me

What contact cleaner do you use ?

I've cleaned mine up. Put new brushes and put it all back together correctly and all mine does is short. What is causing this? Do I need a new motivator or rotavator? I have found the problem. No insulator on the spring. It runs now but in the opposite direction to my other class 37s ! Can't see why ? Aggh!

And what grease do you recommend ?

You put the brush back on 90 degrees wrong, so the wear groove is running top to bottom...

I've one of these spent many hours to get it to work and then it will decide not to again

8H22 head code for a coal train working in South Wales

The best thing you can do with these Tri-ang type 37s is flog them on ebay and get something that works properly - I did!