openauto pro follow up with script install kzfaq.info/get/bejne/odVdqMd92ce0m2w.html

You'll definitely need to get an anti-glare screen protector, that glare will become a problem when least expected. QOL improvement.

How a complete build in detail from scratch to build the head-unit in several videos would be handy . detailing all connections, software, adding different module and setting up, especially things like 4way audio, radio tuner, cameras, etc

SSD is absolutely recommended especially when you use Android Auto. After a few weeks of use I had serious reliability issues with SD cards (system was not booting up or only after multiple attempts)... No such issues after installing an SSD.

This channel is gold mine of knowledge .

I was about to mention about touch screens being really bad for volume control when you mentioned it. Another thought would be to rig up a jog shuttle/switch instead of a basic volume control so that when you are in the map view it could allow you to pan and zoom around the map view without having to drag the map via the screen.

Awesom Work! 👍👍👍 Yes, "car computers". It's too much a luxury to own a car in Singapore, never thought I would enjoy watching something like this, until now.

So cool! I'll be super keen to also add reverse camera. 360 degree camera, DVR, 3G. Possibilities are endless with such a cool custom build! Gonna keep tuned to this

I've managed to get FM running on a Pi using one of those cheap $10 SDR dongles that have the RTL2832U chipset. That chipset is probably the most commonly used and supported chipset for SDR devices on the Pi.

When she doesn't say I love you back

I learned to things from this video. #1 this is a huge project and i probably wont be able tp do it for a long time. #2 your incredibly smart and i appreciate the time you quality of your videos.

I've been playing with streaming music for years in the car. I first mounted an old tablet, which worked for 2 years until the screen died from the heat (touch screen connections pulled off). This let me know that only quality LCDs should be used. I've been running an RPI (3?) with Openauto Pro in the car for years now with the official 7" RPI screen, and it's worked very well except when Google updates their software and it breaks for a little bit. Great to see this video about it. Very nice!

I've been working for some OEMs' "real" infotainment systems. This is impressive.

You may want to put a little delay on the relay to turn on the relay. Reason for this is because when you start the car you'll get accessory feed for a few seconds, lose it while cranking the engine and get it back once the key is released from the start position. Basically causing the Pi to start booting, get interrupted and then start booting again

That's awesome. It looks factory installed. I really look forward to seeing more about this. Thank you for the video.

I wouldn't suggest this to most people, but you're nerdy enough. You should drop a CAN-BUS Tx/Rx into the mix (there's even a great hat for the Pi). You can then access the car's data bus directly, and gain control over everything, including environmental, and any other electronics in the car (steering wheel controls!). The accessible OBD-2 ports block a lot of data and are largely read-only. With a performance car like your WRX, you'd get gobs of awesome data straight from the ECM. It also has the added benefit of being able to wire into the stock wiring harness nice and clean. You may have to Wireshark your bus to sniff the variables for awhile and map them, but totally, totally worth it.

Finally my love of pi and my love of subaru have came together as one. Been planning to do this myself but with 2 screens (sat av and infotainment)

I would add a forward AND reverse cam for those times when you have to park and there is virtually no room. As an even better solution, you might want to get a recording front and reverse cam to record what happens to your car when you are away from it.

Im doing a similar concept on my truck, and this video answered most of my questions faster than i could think of them. This is awesome

I'm doing a conversion van custom tech rebuild but I want to make it my own. This is dope and perfect for the type of ideas that I'm looking for.

This is fantastic! Thank you for posting it. I have started building mine but have come across a couple of things I need to add or change. When it has been posted I can’t wait to see your schematic and script for the relays, that’s one thing I am missing. I can help you navigate the custom obd gauges and pid’s as I have set them up for my car.

I used a UPS hat instead of a relay setup. I got a buck converter to take the 12v accessory from my truck and put it down to 5v 3a on two separate usbc cables. The UPS automatically turns on the pi. Also the UPS is able to do a safe shutdown of the pi when power is lost (when I turn the car off). And it holds time on the pi!

Bravo! Simple and effective. I like how you approached the safe shutdown and parasitic draw issues. Would like to hear more on audio quality. On my setup, I'm now only using the USB sound card for mic input. I installed a PCM1502a dac for sound out which has much better sound quality. I've seen some guys using HiFiBerry for the same thing.

::Shows cardboard box:: “It’s a really nice box. I might upgrade this later, add some LEDs, and a fan for exhaust.” You should be selling houses! Anyway, great video, really informative. I was thinking about the heat. Maybe flipping it, putting the amp on top and the raspi on the bottom. Also maybe putting the, on separate panels. Like add a second plate to the very bottom of he frame and put the raspi there. Heat sinks should always be aiming upward too.

Hell yeah a tech channel and car channel. Will go together. I picked up a raspberry pi cuz I'm interested in learning a little bit more about PCS programming, coding, networking and all the other little things that are involved with it LOL. Not trying to be some mad computer scientist but I do have an interest in it. All of that because I have a love for cars and I want to understand the electrical system a little better. I have two cars that are from 1988 very little Electronics in them. So making the stereo out of a Raspberry Pi is dope. I'm also interested in a GPS for the cars made out of a Raspberry Pi. The ECU in my 88 Chevy is tunable and I would like to make something out of the Raspberry Pi to get live readings of the ECU. The reason I want to use the Raspberry Pi is because a laptop is just too big. If I can make something like that the more than likely I would just mount it in the dash with a 7-10in IPS touchscreen display. So yeah the 2 channels would work. If anything I want I want to is is possible and you know let me know.

Nice job. The menus seem quite slow and laggy though, probably due to the SD card. I'd definitely recommend booting and running the OS from a USB 3 HDD or ideally an SSD. Also, given how unreliable SD cards are (especially in RPIs) you'll probably find yourself needing to remove the unit to replace it at some point anyway.

That cracking sound cracks me up

welcome to the Family! ;) ive been a memeber of this project since update 2.0

OpenAuto rear-view defaults to the Raspberry Pi Camera (with the flat ribbon cable connector). There's a Pi-KVM project that recommends TC358743 boards for HDMI to pi-camera port. Then you can chain it with a cheap composite to HDMI converter. It's a bit roundabout, but probably the easiest solution.

Not going to lie... I was going to call you out so hard about the VPN service claiming to not keep logs. However, after doing research into them on my own, PIA really doesn't keep logs of any type. I must say, I was wrong and this was a great sponsor shoutout. Thanks for the link, bro! Great video on the Pi head unit as well. I've been waiting for a few months now for someone to drop this so I can follow along and install one in my Nismo RS. Just liked and sub'd, thank you thank you!! :)

Awesome, man! i've been thinking about making a build like this myself, was holding back and waiting for a properly working android build for Pi. I haven't found a head unit for my car that i'd actually like for almost 10 years now. thats frustrating that you have to build something yourself to make it actually good. My plan was to not use a built in amp, since my speakers are powered by an amp anyway. And i'd like to find a proper good sounding sound card for the pi, and one thing i have to solve is that i definitely need a rotary volume switch and maybe couple of buttons for next and previous tracks.

I like your project! Looks great. Did you consider extending the front out so you could mount a much larger screen? You could also add standoff's to raise the raspberry pi up a few mm to assist with heat dissipation. If you need to adjust the base plate to allow for the height, you can add side 'wings' and lower the base plate and use the wings as new attachment points to the double din metal frame. The wings could be 3d printed and glued or screwed to the base plate, then tapped and screwed to the metal frame. This would give you whatever height you might need and allow for better heat dissipation. You might even add a layer of insulation between the pi and the base plate to protect the plastic. Perhaps drill some ventilation holes in the base plate to assist with airflow, even making a back plate for the lower area and add an intake fan, and add an exhaust fan up high to get that airflow. Again, with standoffs, if you have holes drilled below the pi, the flowpath will have cooler air pulled in from below, then up through the holes, thus cooling the back of the pi, then out the top or the back plate. It would require 2 more fans, but you could easily run much larger fans - even perhaps have them controlled by the pi with a couple of temperature thermocouple's/sensors placed wherever you think best - It should be no big deal to add fan speed profiles etc... Good stuff! Call me impressed.

I would be curious how it stands up to extreme vehicle temps in the midst of summer of like Arizona. I've done a tablet head unit install in the past and no model holds up and overheats. I'd even put a cover on it.

Ah dude, SUPER sick build, love your work! definitely thinking of doing something like this in the future.

If you have any issues with it keeping it cool you could always use the ac ducts above. I would 3D print some small tubing and adapted to the Ducs above so that way it blows cool air on the Raspberry Pi. But you have to figure a way to shut off the airflow during the winter the heater is not blowing on it

Looking forward to the updates!

Compute Module 4 might be an perfect candidate....But custom designing PCB is a real challenge...Good Luck with your cool project!!

Looks very clean. Seems the relay contactors used did their job. I may have to give this a shot one day. Greatly appreciate the video.

That bracket does not have to be that precise. You could use a piece of masonite and just drill, glue and screw it together. A spacer for the screen is a bit more of a precision part, and it shows a little, si that it almost surely worth printing. I do plan to make one if these myself, but as long as I can work from home motivation is a bit lacking - LoL

I have been wanting o do a modular pi deck forever! Bravo!

Amazing .. waiting for the FM module update.. Great project ... Congratulations!

Very neatly explained. I will soon start installing openauto in my car. The only thing I can't find is that on your drawing and the script for the esp. Only 1 wire goes to the relay. But in your video I see 2 wires. I understand that's for the double relay. 1 for the gpio and 1 for the global_en. But I don't see whether that has been incorporated into the script that I have to put on the esp. Thank you for the clear explanation. Keep it up

Great video, loved it and nice job on the head unit but whatever was clicking and clattering in the audio drove me absolutely nuts lol

I was looking on Amazon for a second monitor for my head unit and saw that they make mini HD I displays for Pi. Did a quick search on YT and landed on your video. I really like this build. This is great! This auto pc has serious potential. If I still have trouble with my Pioneer MH1700NEX, I think I'll try building my own micro pc like this. I might go with a 10inch screen though, if it'll fit nicely.

How is the audio for calls? One major issue with so many after-market head units are the terrible audio quality for calls (and many cause feedback between the speakers & mic) - if this solution can bring 'first class' audio when driving, then this is a huge game changer! Also, have you figured out if this can handle steering wheel controls?

I have been using PLA+ for automotive interior parts with great luck. no deforming or any pliability.

With the extra heat (for charging), I'm sure you could have the ESP board using a pin to switch a fan on/off too.

wow, please add the steps and plans to your store , Thank u for all u do

Great job. I wish that I was younger and could take on a project like this. Once again, good job Don!

I have been waiting for this video. I have most of the parts and now I just need to source the 3D printed parts.

Lt. Commander Geordi La Forge : I've been in this room before. Commander William T. Riker : We've all been here before.

Hey, I'm hoping someone can answer @ few questions for me for me. 1. Is the 4ch amp board required? Can I use multiple 2ch amp boards? 1.1 Is each channel for each speaker? 2. Can you use a higher end car amp for speakers&sub. I'm parting this out and it looks like a fun project, but I'm just trying to see what my options are. This is such cool stuff.

I'd like to see you do something with a factory head unit, and have you add Android auto or Raspberry Pi to it.. like a basic Factory head unit with only a 5-inch touchscreen..lol.. that's what I have and I'd like to upgrade it or add something to it..

Very nice work on your build. If its running warm you could mod one your vent ducks inside to blow down with little hole inside to help keep cool if your running your a/c or such.

Seeing as how you already have a Pi onboard, you could pretty easily just run an SDR USB dongle for the radio.

if you leave your car off for 3 days, it should kill your battery. I've had lot of issues with the pi being "off" but coming out to a dead battery. Hooked everything up the same way as you did.

@Novaspirit Tech - aside the 3D prints what was your total cost of this Build?

Nice setup. It looks very professional. I am curious as to why you chose to have the amplifier at the bottom instead of on top since it is the biggest source of heat. Isn't it unnecessarily heating up the Raspberry Pi and other components?

do you not need an isolated power supply for the pi to avoid ground audio interference?? Im guessing you will run into a buzz sound or a high noise floor.... you can fix that by isolating the power supply for the audio source from the amp..

I think this is really awesome. It looks clean and looks very functional. Can you slow down a little? You are so twitchy and speak very quickly. I know a lot of people have ADHD but it takes time to digest what you are saying and you just jump from idea to idea very quickly.

OK, thanks for the video. This is the first time I have seen OpenAuto and it's cool.

Looking forward to find out how to get FM radio working with this. However I am wounding if the audio has the ability to fade between front and rear speakers. Or does the amp only have one left and right signal instead of front L/R and rear L/R.

I’d have to look at the dimensions and power input spec, but HifiBerry has their BeoCreate amp board that’s equipped with overkill levels of audio DSP for the amps. they’re $250 ish but take 12v input and powers itself and a pi.

Ok so the amp for the speakers since you are only using headphone out you only have left and right am I correct? You will not get Fade and Balance, it would be one or the other. Just got the AMP in and haven't tested anything since I am lacking some parts still.

The problem with using a ground loop isolator is they cause your audio to sound like garbage... but i guess at least it gets rid of the engine rev noise. It's possible to get rid of the ground loop, you just gotta do some wiring. Everything must be grounded at the same location in order to remove the buzz. Measure the resistance of your grounds to make sure they're solid. Just because you buzzed off a bit of paint and screwed the ground in tight, doesn't mean it's properly grounded. Modern cars are glued together a lot and don't have the greatest conductivity between panels. I'd also double check that your power adapters for 12v and 5v are outputting proper voltage. Since the car runs at a different voltage with and without the engine being on. 14.8v while running can do weird things.

Sorry Im late to the party but mausberry circuits has a power board specifically for running you Pi off of an ignition source. Then you can program it to gracefully shut down your Pi. The cool thing is , you can program it to turn off the Pi after the car is turned off, for instance I have mine turn off about 30 mins after I turn off the car so if I just make a quick trip into the store it will not need to boot again.

i was dreaming about this 10 years ago! these times i was not skilled enought to build something like this and touchscreens where not affordable. Today the cars are more modern and the default double DIN is not present in the cars anymore, what a shame!

get rid of the amplifier underneath the head unit it's not needed. you also will not be the ground isolator if you do it this way and you'll get the highest quality sound possible with zero noise. *BUDGET* Walmart has an amplifier by the Jensen brand label which is actually made by the same engineer that makes the superior line DUAL amplifiers that both budget Gems , Big D , and me of course have tested thoroughly. this unit has the Bluetooth input also has a basic equalizer you can use via a Bluetooth connection as well. it also has configurable RGB lighting the amplifier can be purchased anywhere from $69 for two channels $100 for the four Channel. that will take care of any ground Loops you have and any noise that you may experience will be a thing of the past. you also don't need to run RCA's which means you can basically hook up this amplifier anywhere you want which is convenient. *PRO WAY* pick up any outboard DSP that accepts Optical or uses Wi-Fi or Bluetooth input. the Dayton bsp and the Adu 1701 also has this capability. you can also use something called the hifiberry in order to get multi-channel out of the Raspberry Pi and use that to drive your amplifiers but it's a little bit more technical than needs to be. you can also use something like a mini DSP which works very well. the Nano digi is my personal choice since it has a channels of output and accepts Optical inputs. it's best to use a PC to set it up however. you can also use things like a volume control knob and other accessories with it if chosen. you get up to eight channels of audio that way you can go fully active on the components that you have and purchase any range of 4 channel amps that will fit your pricing budget. I'm currently doing heat testing on a blocked punt 1504 4 channel amp and it does get a quite a bit toasty when running on hot days. if you plan to use a 3-way front stage then it's not really a problem for running tweeters and mid-range. the excellent line of dual digital amplifiers is my personal pick since they never overheat or I've never experienced it and they sound wonderful especially when used in an active application. at the very minimum you're going to need a 4 channel amp up front and a dedicated subwoofer amplifier which you need to be mono or stereo that's up to your setup. doing it this way we'll get you the highest audio quality while at the same time not only do you get close to zero noise from things like round Loops but it will be damn your silent during operation and interference is not likely. *MICROPHONE* for the microphone I always suggest a Bluetooth microphone mounted anywhere you would like mainly because again it gets rid of the ground Loop problem that you usually end up having interference or engine whine being picked up to the microphone cables. there is always a source of power in the sun visor area has a sun visors usually have a dedicated 12 volt line that's always live. that way all you have to do is just Supply power to it which is basically the ground in a positive and that can be had from just about anywhere in the vehicle. NOTES: check out the hifiberry project for Raspberry Pi it might be of interest to you if you're going to install a subwoofer anyways , it's probably a good idea to install a second battery in the trunk area like an XSpower or something similar or make your own Lithium Ion Battery/pack. the reason why I mention this is that now you have a what is essentially a FULL PC in your car? Why not use it as such? Remore start? Car Alarm? Car Battery monitering and Low battery start? FULL DVR for your CAR WHILE ITS PARKED! GPS Locator! WiFi Router. Lighting control. Etc et.c etc. I would rather have the Pie running all the time then worry about shuting it off due to not having enough battery capacity on board. if you have a 21st century stereo it's time to have a twenty-first-century battery

Changing the boot up splash screen to the car maker's logo would be a nice touch.

Wow, what a nice random find. I had almost the same idea, and I have almost the same car (sportswagon). As soon as I saw the plastic center console on your desk I was like "hold on a minute". Anyway, my idea was to have a dual screen setup, one like you did but also a smaller one mounted to the other side so I could have closer access to controls but also I could keep like Navi up and still play a movie or something along those lines.

Loved building this , so thanks for all the info Has anyone who has built one had any issues with audio crackling ( quite loud ) Used pretty much same parts as in video ( I have looked through forums )

That is neat! I little bit of warning about peeling the plastic off of the screen is(or any other electronic for that matter), make sure that the system is shut down. and disconnected. The chances might be low but the static electricity from peeling the plastic off can damage your system.(Dont ask how I know)

Can you please share what model 3d printer you used to fab the bezel pieces? Thanks!

This is so cool, thanks for posting this and can't wait to see what's next. I bought a rock pi to try doing this before the pi 4 came out but unfortunately due to lack of software and some breaking the as slot off when it dropped on the floor, I was unable to complete that. Might give it another shot however using this setup.

The resurrection of home brewed carputers! I had one in 2001. It sucked. But it worked. No touch screen though. I couldn't afford the screen. I forgot the name of those screens everyone was using. I used a cheap little laptop, which was a lot like a netbook before there were netbooks. I played MP3s using winamp and some skins and key mappings to a hacked keyboard. I used a laptop hard drive, mounted on an isolation sled made using an old car Cd player silicon dampers.

Very nice install and good to see a Subaru getting some love. I have a Tribeca so this would be a bit too involved to get working in that since the screen is about 10 inches above the controls. But the head unit I put in my Jetta has a/v inputs so I could add a pi to it.

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How will you install a "reverse camera"? Using a long cable to connect to the Pi Camera that would be somehow installed near the rear car plate?

Thanx for posting. Now you have a platform to test the other open source projects out as well. Hopefully you will include some of the full android ones.

THAT IS SICK DUDE i had an idea to make kind of an mp3 box with a pi and one of those cheap 3.5 touchscreen cases but power it from cig lighter and hook it to aux for the ride. but you doin big things

Can you theoretically use second and third screens on the same pi to run separate programs? I’m going to run stuff for my dash cluster and want everything to be in sync and very sleek looking.

I know this appears to not apply on your build.....but steering wheel controls. That's the one thing stopping me from doing this in my CrossTrek right now.

If it were me, I'd go for an I2C FM controller like the TEA5767 or similar. Should be very low power. I don't know if it supports RDS data, but that would be cool too

Have you tried using Torque OBD on android? Youd be able to use whatever sensors you have access to and should be able to install it just as an application

Very nice. I built one using a odroid xu4 running android, and a TSA8498 4x100w bluetooth amp, using the bluetooth instead of an audio jack for the amp solved the noise issue

I used to run Centrafuse thru a mini pc with win7pro worked flawlessly for years in my 2005 focus wagon then I sold the car and left everything in there. I should have removed and reinstalled into my new then 2013 Rav4 which has the worst infotainment system which I replaced with a Atoto S6 android which works awesome !

Love this kind on projects. Good work.

i had a full desktop pc under the drivers seat of an old ford ute. legit driving round with a wireless keyboard and mouse with a screen just loose in the cabin.

I'd love to do this but my only concern is steering wheel controls.... volume up/down previous/next track/preset etc

Is there a way to convert a car with manual climate controls that display on the stock radio screen over to a unit like this?

What was the logic behind making a flat piece of plastic out of PLA from a 3d printer to mount the PI on, Would it not have been a much faster and simpler option to cut out the desired shape out of a existing flat sheet of material like delrin or acrylic, and simply drill holes as needed

dude love result!! Brilliant OEM look

How do you like the screen? What is the nits? Is it bright enough during the day?

Great video but why does it sound radioactive? Like a frikkin Geiger counter was next to the camera.

I have one similiar project going on, i just have pi 3b overclocked to 1.4ghz, smaller passive heatsink, 4A isolated step down, step up boost converter for 4x tda3116d2, few rca outputs and im using mosfets instead of relays, i still need alot more and might use my 2din alum case as heatsink.

If I understood you correctly the Red LED is on when the Pi is turned off, dessolder the red LED, it would lower your standby even more. Or you could try finding and RTC module for the pi, and have that keeping time, and turn power to the pi completely.

Insane build. Love it!

super clean install! loving it. which bluetooth are you using?

Have you ever Built a unit for a customer ? I have a automotive application where I would like to take an OE Audi RNSE and rebuild its internals ( and replace screen ) to create a 2021 era functional head unit that looks stock adding things that you'd find in off the shelf units -but that in addition give you an in-dash computer ...The unit is made in Japan by Aisin Co. for Audi, my thoughts were that some of the switch gear, ( buttons ) could still be used to control the unit, but the screen could be touch screen and some other inputs for things like Back up Cam or Bluetooth which were never available could be added ... fans and the heat sink could be harvested from the donor unit ..

I was thinking of doing this with my E46 Sport Wagon, but I have 2 crazy power amps that shot my bass through my 12” subs, and sick voice set up…would your idea work to run with my existing setup? Or am I limited to just that 50 watt amp?