Is the probing routine simply a gcode file on the flash drive? I will have to look into this. Do you just call them by opening and running a gcode file them like you would to cut a part?

Yes

You can zero the axis without this probe. This makes the process quicker and more accurate. You can use a piece of paper and jog the axis until it drags. Then measure the thickness of the paper and offset by that amount and take into consideration the diameter/radius of the bit your using to get your zero location but this is going to be far slower (and maybe error prone) than this probe. If your just engraving signs, flattening a glue up or a slab of wood a few thousandths accuracy is probably over kill and you can eyeball it. If you're making mechanical things that need to align to other parts accuracy is more critical. Or if you are doing toolpaths that require switching bits from say a flat endmill to cut the shape out and a chamfer mill to chamfer the edges then you need reset your z-zero height after the tool change this will make compensating for that a breeze. Another example is flipping a part over to machine both sides and you need to zero so the features align. Obviously there are ways you can make clever fixturing to help resolve some of these scenarios but this is just another useful tool to simplify and speed up the process of accurately finding a corner of your part.

That's a good point and probably works for z zeroing I will have to try that. The scenario I didn't mention but it was specifically imagninging was flipping a part after machining one side and wanting to pick up the same corner. I suppose clever fixturing can handle this but is more steos. My past CNC expierence has largely been on CNC mills where I have a probe or wobbler on a Bridgeport and I can pick up any feature and any orientation. Coming from that this feels simpler but limiting.

How do you recommend reinforcing it? Some kind of tape or?

@@SafetyGlassesRequired I had started modeling a 3d print out of tpu to be able to give the screen some cushion until I realized there wasnt a way to replace the screen. But an easy fix would be to put some thin foam tape behind the screen where the ribbon cable is tucked and soldered onto the board, the cable and screen are just held in place with one thin peice of double sided flat tape. There is a connector on the other side of the board to hook in a new one but openbuilds support said it wont work.