I am unfamiliar with those, I will check them out, thanks.

Nice, I'm glad it is working out for you.

Thanks, I am glad you enjoyed it, and welcome I hope you enjoy some of my other videos as well.

Thank you! 😃

Thanks, I'm glad you enjoyed it.

Cool, hopefully I gave you an idea.

I agree, and thanks.

Thanks 😊

That's a good idea, I might try that next time.

The blades on the 111mm knives are pretty big beefy blades, which might make it a bit harder to get down to a good detail carving size. Also depending on your blade/knife type many of the nail nicks are pretty close to the tip which give you good leverage to overcome the pressure of the back spring and open the knife safely. If you shorten the blade you might have trouble accessing the nail nick between other tools and it might be a real nail breaker with little leverage close to the pivot. All things you can undoubtedly overcome, but they are the first speed bumps that come to mind.

My pleasure, thanks for watching.

I enjoy it, and I am glad you enjoyed watching.

If I were to do it again, I think a seven is what I might go for. The six works (it is also what I already had), and I haven't had any trouble holding on to it, but a seven might be a little more comfortable to hold on to. I think an 8 would be a little too big for my pocket.

I personally would lean towards the 7, but you might want an 8 depending on your hand size and desired carry method.

Ok! About the size of the blade, do you thing that have a big difference in the size of the blade between n.7 and n.8?

I have and it isn't terrible. It is not as good as a knife made for whittling/carving, but it is better than any utility or disposable-blade knife I have seen or used. What it has going for it is, obviously, the price of both the knife and replacement blades and a shorter blade than a typical utility knife (easier to get into tighter curves). The downsides are, the blade needs to be sharpened up and the steel is on the softer side. Thus you need to resharpen often and the knife doesn't do as well in harder woods. All that said it isn't the worst knife I've used for whittling and it is fun to play around with different sharpening angles, blade geometries, and blade shapes because the replacement blades are so cheap.

Assuming you go slow with the metal removal so that you don't ruin the temp in the blade you could do some pretty major alterations on most any knife (Victorinox included). One issue I do except you will run into is opening the knife once the blade is shortened down. Where will you put the nail nick and will you have enough leverage on the much shorter blade to open it against the force of the back spring (not an issue on the Opinel, which has no back spring).

Great thoughts, I think the contour of the 111 scales have to accommodate the small can opener tool so when I’ve looked at them it looks like there’d be space for a nail Nick, but I didn’t think about the spring tension. Guess there’s only one way to find out! Thanks for the thoughts