Whoa that must have been a blast to setup and shoot!

Martin thanks for tuning in, I appreciate you!

Bellows extension factor is such a big one to remember there's a whole episode! :D Cheers!

Thanks Ammar, glad to see so many folks getting into large format. These videos are for everybody interested in shooting big sheets of film.

@@MatMarrash it would be nice if you do a video on in depth metering. I couldn't find good stuff about it out there.

It's like you've read my mind! Stay tuned...

Sure will 🔥🔥

Hey Gerry thanks and happy shooting!

Awesome, thank you!

Thanks and glad you're enjoying the series!

Glad you like it!

Thanks and happy shooting!

Glad it was helpful!

Thanks for sharing your steps!

Interesting suggestion, thanks Terry! I feel like the longer this goes on the more it's going to be a DIY channel.

@@MatMarrash I join the question. I can't find a suitable high-quality and inexpensive dark cloth...

@@sergeydorovskikhNot sure what you consider inexpensive, but for high quality look into Wanderer or BlackJacket focusing cloths.

@@MatMarrash Thanks!

Hey John, thanks for the comment, hope to see some 4x5 from you soon! I'm totally in for whatever FPP has planned later in 2020 and 2021.

Thanks! With ample practice that concern will become confidence in no time. But do make sure everything is locked down before inserting that film holder!

What 4x5" camera do you have? Some come with a bail back and others offer a bail back as an option. A bail is a lever that one uses to oppose the spring in the back so it easily opens. Once you slide in the sheet film holder, then you use the bail to close the back down onto the film holder. Gently check to be sure the sheet film holder's rib has dropped into the slot cut into the back. My monorail 4x5" Cambo did not come with a bail back that *also* rotates to change between vertical and horizontal compositions. I had to watch for a used one to come up on eBay and I grabbed it when it did. If your camera does not have a bail back, don't just try to push the sheet film holder in because you risk the danger of rotating your camera slightly which changes the composition. This is because all that is holding it in place is friction where the base of the camera rests against the top of your tripod. Instead, try this: 1. use fingers of your free hand to gently hold open the camera back a little bit. 2. slide in the sheet film holder just slightly, then pause. 3. move your free hand to the opposite side of the back. 4. use your free hand to hold the camera in place as you now slide in the sheet film holder all the way. You want the two forces to equal each other. With some practice, this move will become second nature and your camera will maintain the composition. About that friction. You can increase it quite easily. Go to a bicycle or motorcycle tire repair shop and ask for a blown-out inner tube from their trash bin. Wash it well and air dry it. Then cut out a section sized to fit between your tripod head and the base of your camera. Pierce a small hole in the center just small enough for the tripod screw to barely pass through. If you can not find a blown-out inner tube, cut out a piece of cheap soft plastic shelf liner from a discount store. I like the kind that has alternating soft bumps and spaces because I think it might compress more. Just after you set up your tripod but before adding your camera, place that piece of inner tube or shelf liner over the tripod screw then thread the screw through it. Now when you attach your camera to the tripod, you will find that the amount of friction has increased greatly. Every one of my camera kits has a couple pieces of cut out inner tube or shelf liner. They weigh almost nothing but can come in handy for other things. For example, if I need to apply a clamp to hold a light, a flag, a wire, etc. but I do not want the clamp to damage a surface, I place one of those pieces of soft material between the clamp and surface. Also, the soft material increases the grip friction of the clamp. Check to see why those sheet film holders are not easily sliding into your camera's back. It might be dirty or have some other problem. If you want to reduce friction, you can apply some Bee's Wax to surfaces. Most beekeepers in your area will sell you some wax. I apply Bee's Wax to the sides of my sheet film holders. I also gently apply Bee's Wax to the corners and long edges of my dark slides to prevent them from binding. I do not apply it to the short edge of the dark slides since it *could* foul the felt light trap over time. I hope these tips are of some help. Terry Thomas... the photographer Atlanta, Georgia USA

Maybe one of these days!

It's an old LowePro Super Trekker AW II. More about it here: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/i5dhqdSfuJzSmIk.html

Maybe slow to start, but increases in speed with time. That's why we gotta do the "dance"!

Hi Frank thanks for the question. That's an old Majestic geared head. It's a super heavy duty two way head that has a large carrying capacity and can be found used for a cheap price. The top of the head has an Arca-Swiss quick release mount from Novoflex called the Q=Base.

@@MatMarrash Hello Mat, I was not familiar with this type of tripod. I will also order the Novoflex Mount now. It is manufactured around here. So far I thought cheap wasn't bad either. Now I'm going to buy something really good! Thanks for the great video! The Dance --- there is no better way to say it! And yes ... I like to dance!

Infinity stops aren't typically present on field cameras and aren't necessary if you're doing ground glass focusing. If you have a field camera like an Intrepid, Chamonix, or ShenHao where you screw the front standard into the bed, you'll choose the hole that's closest to your lens focal length to start.

You can use them however you wish, but typically holders on the white portion of the darkslide have ridges so you know which side you're working with in total darkness. I also recommend some painter's tape for labeling holders and colored stickers for processing instructions.

The convention is: white side out means unexposed, black side out means exposed. It doesn't matter as long as you're consistent, but most photographers I know use white unexposed, black exposed.

Spoken like a true gentleman.