I have this exactly right now

Good point. 18659batterystore.com, liionwholesale.com, and illumn.com are great places to get 35+ Amp 18650s.

Good to know, my sofirn batteries say 10a max 15a, I just ordered some 45a molicels

Welcome aboard! And thank you for your kind words.

The video is still mostly accurate. Just get Nichia 519a 4000k instead of SST-20

@@cheule I actually wanted to try a 2700k light with hank and their D1 mini pocket thrower with W2 blue emitter (saw a yt content about it) looks fun but not practical.

Glad to help! Thanks for the praise!

Welcome!

I agree, but I guess he’s spread too thin work wise to spend a lot of time on the website our promotion. He’s told me that he and one partner do all the assembly of all the orders, in addition to all the financials and customer support.

@@cheule Thanks for your follow-up, Cheule. You know, so many in the community love Hank and his work--I'm sure he could enlist some volunteers to help him out with some of the content. Especially given how there are a number of technically proficient members that buy his flashlights.

Glad it helped!

The XTAR plus charger I just reviewer is under $20 and works well for 26800 batteries.

Welcome! This video is older but still very accurate. The only thing I would add is, 519A 4000k is a good SST-20 alternative, and optional boost driver if you want half the lumens for 5x longer.

@@cheule Thanks, I was curious about the boost driver. If I use the light with the smaller 18350 tube configuration that driver should keep the temperature down and less strain on the smaller battery, I hope. As a newbie, the SST-20 4K sounds like the best candidate for color rendition.

I would recommend Nichia 519a 5000K for most users.

Glad it helped!

@@cheule it did, just ordered the d4v2 and d4sv2 ... cheers

SST-20 4000K, because the 5000K version of SST-20 is extremely green tinted and looks awful.

@@cheule Hank contacted me also and stated for my purpose he recommends a 519A 5700 k dome with floody optic and boost driver upgrade. Stated it will have better efficiency and longer runtime, but the turbo would drop to 2200 lumens. Since the standard is 4, 000 but it drops down extremely quickly. It's kind of useless for long-term high beam.

I'm glad you mentioned that the output difference is barely noticeable, because I don't have any lights with SST20s and watched a ton of videos trying to decide between SST20 4k and 219B 4.5k and also the 219B 3.5k and finally I decided to go with the 219B 4.5k fearing of green SST20s. In most of the videos it seems like the trunks of trees look more greenish with SST20s and I think this makes trees less contrasting in the forest (a green environment), while with 219Bs everything that's brown, just looks vivid and more warm, which is much more calming.

@@sciencestuff699 I disagree, my SST-20 D4V2s are noticeably brighter than my 219b D4V2. My SST-20 outputs 3000 lumens while my 219b is about 1500 lumens That’s not to say 219b is a worse emitter. I love it and have it in over 15 lights. It’s just not as bright or throwy.

My D4V2 FA3 bin from Hank is dead neutral. 0.0001 DUV on my Sekonic C-800. Which bin did you get? Hank has sometimes resorted to using FC1, which can run above BBL.

@@cheule Ok, I will see how far it reaches, when it arrives. I found a lot of videos with SST-20 quads, but not so many with 219B quads. I will probably end up buying more with some other emitters anyways, because I'm curious.

@@cheule I believe it is the FC1. My SST20 4K is in a month old Black oil Ti from JLHawaii808. My understanding is the older SST20 4K light were pretty neutral bin but the more recent ones have been green. I don't have an old one to side by side with but it had a noticeably more green tint than any other light I have, including my LH351D 5k, before I filtered it. Don't get me wrong, I love the light. I'm carrying it with me right now (first shift of the week. Ugg..) After I put a Lee filter on it it is beautiful, if a bit warmer. I also probably stated the brightness difference poorly. The SST20'S are clearly brighter. I just mean that, in my day to day use, I never want for more lumens with any 4 emitter Hank light. Except for geeking out I haven't had a situation where I couldn't illuminate what I needed to with either emitter. I suppose if you are trying to light distant objects in an open field, the 219's might not get it done. SST20'S are throwier for certain.

I think many people make too big a deal about the driver options. Get boost for efficiency, but at the cost of lumens.

@@cheule I think the boost driver is pretty much a must if the D4V2 is your first Hanklight. Most people who aren't enthusiasts will appreciate the much longer runtime and efficiency of the boost driver. When you pair the driver with the W2, 519A or the SST20, it turns the D4V2 into a true EDC duty light.

Flashlights 101: Tint talk! (CCT, BBL, DUV and bins) kzfaq.info/get/bejne/l815lc6X2sDOeGg.html And in this video I measure CRI: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/kK5iksqF0tncm3k.html

I’m a bigger fan of single channel lights. They’re more efficient and ultimately put out more lumens. Note that dual channel lights can be fun, but they lack a usable moonlight, and are 9A linear only. They don’t have FET or DD.

Welcome aboard! You're gonna love the D4V2. Be sure to get FLAT top unprotected 18650 battery. Molicel, Sony Murata, Samsung are all good choices.

@@cheule awesome thanx. I saw a couple more of your vids and I’m leaning towards a mule seeing as I use it mainly for car work (so a lot of flood would be nice) and you mentioned photography work which is also a hobby of mine. How do I order the D4V2 in mule and what high CRI emitter should I use? Thanx for your response! 😄

Your heat issue is definitely from the driver. FET generates huge heat. Go boost, and you’ll see the difference.

Addition

For multipurpose I suggest 4000K. I would go 519A 5700K DD. Here is some data I’ve measured during DD. 519A CCTs for DD sm273 DD -> 2200K (Carclo TIR) sm303 DD -> 2600K (?) sm353 DD -> 2700K (LOP Reflector) sm403 DD -> 3050K (LOP Reflector) sm453 DD -> 3250K (Carclo TIR) sm503 DD -> 3650K (LOP Reflector) sm573 DD -> 4000K (Carclo TIR) sm573 DD -> 4300K (LOP Reflector) note: there is variation between emitters and CCT can drop because of optic.

It is, just email Hank after placing your order. Give him your completed order number and he will tell you if any additional paypal payment is necessary.

Jury is till out on 519A... The hype is massive right now, and I'm waiting for the honeymoon period to be over and get down to the facts about 519A.

I was also wondering about w1 w2 and 519 Also the video didn't mention boost drivers

I don’t think Anduril 2 is a huge upgrade, no. But you can definitely flash firmware under windows, but I can’t walk you through that as I don’t have a window machine. Mac/Linux only here.

@@cheule thanks for the info. Really appreciate it.

I recorded this just yesterday! His site is very inconsistent, some lights show button options that others don't show. This is why I mentioned custom ordering and emailing him. Also, I didn't make the video exhaustive with regard to all the options, it was already too long!

@@cheule I also could've used this video a few months ago but still really appreciate you taking the time to make it. I'm sure it will be very useful for many folks who are just getting into the hobby. Cheers and thanks!

@@cheule I noticed it on some items. The video was still interesting and useful to watch. The problem with such things is that you understand the product when you have it in your hands. Just then you understand why people said go for the high CRI, or get a dedicated thrower etc. That why videos like these from people who tried most of the "flavors" are very useful. Thanks for being honest about the pocket clips. I heard that some people had problems with anodizing. One complain that I had about the video was the size of the page. Please next time go full screen and zoom in. I was watching on the phone while I was doing something and I had to put it on front of my nose to see the various options.

@@westsenkovec sorry about that, I really did produce this with a 4K computer in mind. My bad.

They are fabulous. I have a D4sV2 with lh351d 5k/w1's and my D4v2 with lh351d 3.5k/W2 should be here tomorrow or Tuesday. The lh351d 5k is a touch green but not too bad. I may put a minus 1/8 green on but it's not bad as it is. I have the D4sV2 in switching, rather than ramping and it is just like having 2 lights in one body. I'm sure there is a measurable difference in 2 vs 4 emitters on at a time but, in use, I only see it on a flat wall. If you are concerned, go with similar color temps. I honestly don't know if I will buy another single Chanel 4 emitter light (right... I'll stick to that, sure).

I have a love/hate relationship with the dual channels. I’ll make a video about it. It’ll be an opinion piece.

@@cheule Look forward to seeing that. My experience has been positive, but limited. Like to see a well reasoned argument and see what I'm overlooking.

@@joshevans3452 did you get your d4v2 dual channel? how do you find it?

@@dalex100 I got it. I like the light for sure but I think I might have gone for a strange mix. So the lh351d 3.5 are quite nice. At higher power, they have a lovely warm color. As you ramp them down they get very yellow with a touch of green (to my eyes - don't have a proper photometer) but that is to be expected. The W2s are the W2s. With the D4v2 standard optics, they don't get nearly as throwy as in a D4sV2. Rather than being half way between, say, SST20'S and W1s, I think they are maybe 1/3 passed the SST20'S, if that makes any sense? They have a wide hot spot with a very pronounced second ring. When used as tint ramp, I can get some interesting combinations. The mostly lh351d with a touch of W2 gives a big yellow flood with a cool center that diminishes toward the edge of the spill. I brought the light to work all week and it is fine. Due to what I ordered, it isn't the do it all light I hoped for. I think getting either a cooler temp lh351d (say 5k), a sst20 4k (with minus green) or a 219b 4.5 with the W2 or getting a W1 in the second channel. The other thing I want to try is to get a 10621 optic and then just DC fix the lh351d. I just put an order in to JLHAWAII808 and totally forgot to order the optic so that will have to wait. Keep in mind, none of this is me saying, "I don't like it". I'm saying that this light is an unusual combination and may need a few tweaks to make it perform the way I want.

Yes, he ships worldwide. As far as import duty, I don’t know!

For throw, nothing beats a large reflector. Go with the largest reflector you can deal with.

This sounds right.

519A is less lumens than XP-L HI, similar to SST-20 in my testing. With dome, more floody and neutral tint. Without dome, more throwy, more beam artifacts, drops about 20% CCT, and gets rosy.

West Coast about 2-3 weeks. East Coast about 4-5 weeks. Shipping is free, and the flashlights are an unbelievable value. So I just got used to waiting.

@@cheule you recommend getting a d4v2 if I already have a s21d?

Candela can be pretty easily measured at home, if you are so inclined. A simple lux meter at 1m away. Google “convert lux to candela.” Also, with a light like the D4V2 there are about 30 emitter options, all with different lumen and candela ratings.

@@cheule that's my point. It's easy, why don't more reviewers do it?

Copper is excellent, but very heavy and soft. So it’s one of my least favorite metals for flashlights.

Hi there! You can send an email to Cheule.on.yt@gmail.com and we can work out details.

Ti stonewashed has a couple advantages over aluminum ano. 1) it’s much harder 2) it’s pre “scuffed”. With that said, note that the darker the ano color, the tougher it is. Cyan is so light that it rubs off easily. Black and dark grey maintain look better.

@@cheule Thanks! Have you seen JLHawaii's "Black Oil" titanium finishing? I assume the black finish on that will wear off over time.

Ti is a terrible conducter of heat and when it gets hot it stays hot longer ,I use gloves

My favorite combo light right now is the AceBeam Terminator M1. I have one, and review is coming soon.

100%

Boost driver offers less lumens, but generates less heat and greatly extends runtime. Up to 5x more.

219b put out more lumens, so more throw. E21A are sliiightly high CRI, but not worth it IMO.

@@cheule what about 219 and 351? I’m gonna do a dual channel with a W1. I know the flood is better on the 351 but how about the tint?

You’re gonna need a 21700 Flat Top I’d say pick up a 21700 Samsung 5000mAh High Discharge Flat Top from Illumn. They’ll run you about $6.50 per one. And you’re also gonna need a special charger with those things. I’d recommend the XTAR VC4

In my experience SST-20 DR is actually quite a lot of lumens. Usually 500-600 per emitter (depending on various factors like driver and optic).

Boost is a simply choice, efficiency over max output. If you want max lumens, go FET If you want max runtime, boost

Yes this video is a bit out of date. But I hope a lot of things I explained still help you.

@@cheule yes it was great for this nooby! due to this new addition, does that mean the difference is a tinted screen with a neutral light as opposed to a coloured light over a neutral tint? thanks!

I don't. I'm not really interested in efficiency. If I think I'll exhaust the battery, I'll just carry a spare. The boost driver is less bright on turbo, and brighter on moonlight. Both things are handled better by the "stock" FET+1 driver. I am also not a huge fan of the Dual Driver for the same issues.

I appreciate your help, thanks..

Oh my, don’t make me have to dive into this topic more lol

It does!

Email hank, it might not be too late to change the order!

A stand alone charger like the XTAR VC4.

Hank only takes PayPal. It's worth it though, his stuff is enthusiast-grade!

Thanks for the prompt reply. I will have to find another way. PayPal is not worth it to me.

@@cheule I sent Hank an email, and he sent me a link that allowed me to pay with a credit card. I am excited to get my hands on the D4V2. Thanks!

Amen to the SS bezel.

It’s fate - time to take the dive into the world of custom flashlights.

@@cheule haha you're right, it's fate! Will do!

When I made this, I expected people to view this on a computer screen. I had no idea people would try to watch this on a cellphone. Sorry!