A sense of wanderlust and infatuation with cultural syncretism drove the Fall 2019 collection. Beginning with trips to the Middle East and Spain, the designers were inspired by architecture and artists from far and wide.
Moorish Spanish architecture was a notable reference. Particularly the Cathedral-Mosque in Córdoba - its grand arches inspired the runway set, its Byzantine-style mosaics and gold were references for embroidery and accessories, and the Grand Mosque in Abu Dhabi - the carpet pattern in its prayer hall inspired a key print. Further inspiration came from close to home: a jacquard motif was created from a rug that Alex and Eliza Bolen found on their honeymoon in Turkey.
Intricate embroideries are ever-present yet took on a sense of restrained opulence. This was achieved with the collection’s earthen and spice-toned palette, hand-embroidered dégradé velvet to create the illusion of distressing and crystals stripped of their foil backing to highlight the fabric below. Elaborate fringing recalls the work of surrealist artist Faig Ahmed, known for distorting traditional Peruvian textiles.
This juxtaposition of elements and formalities was an important theme seen throughout the collection. Traditional menswear fabrics were used to create feminine silhouettes, daywear blended with eveningwear with the use of whisper-weight fabrics and asymmetric cuts. An exquisite balance of old and new.
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