Thanks for your feedback !

Many thanks!

Lot of thanks!

Thank you Ken!

Thanks for feedback, Thomas!

Thanks for the comment. Yes, indeed, some users of 5050 machine with a heavily worn capstan may face a mirror shine problem. The capstan shaft on the video is fortunately still in good condition. The tape contact area on this capstan is slightly lighter, but it is not shiny. That part of the shaft, where you could probably see the large shine of the mirror on the shaft in my video, located inside the sleeve bearing (when the motor is assembled) - this is normal. Microswitches yes, their similar replacement exists, but in our country they are rare to find, and if you order in other countries, you have to wait for quite a long time (although you need to look where they are and order 10-20 pieces for repairs at once)...

Thanks a lot! Well ... it's all experience, some knowledge, a little patience and accuracy. And a little soul invested.

@@Anthony_Scott_Studioservice grazie, io sono solo un appassionato e non un tecnico, alcune nozioni di elettronica che mi permettono di fare qualche riparazione ma niente di impegnativo, non ho l'attrezzatura e strumentazione adatta ma qualche registratore a nastro sono riuscito a sistemarli. Grazie ancora. Ciao

Thanks a lot!!

Thanks!

Thank you so much! This 5050 video is the only one on my channel so far, but I plan to make a few more repair and align videos in the coming months. If the lever behaves unstable, there may be hard dirt on its surface, check this by pointing a table lamp or flashlight near the lever (check the groove along which the tape runs).

Олег, спасибо за фидбек ) Как новые skf встали?) Ёмкости на плате капстана не менял? Видео по настройке, ты имеешь ввиду, русскоязычное? Я не делал, потому как актуально ли это будет?… так как забугорного видео по настройке 5050 на просторах трубы немало.

@@Anthony_Scott_Studioservice да, всё поменял, не стал только разъём ставить как у тебя) видео много согласен, но разрозненно , у тебя получится информативнее, уверен!

@@olegbutorin9625 , разъём, конечно, ставить не обязательно ) этот двигатель стоит, не снимаясь, в аппарате десятилетиями )) При замене только подшипников такое жёсткое соединение вполне терпимо, а при обновлении конденсаторов не очень удобно )) Пару раз бывало, что от этих плат отлетал какой-то из проводков, пока много раз покрутишь плату. Видео по настройке аудио тракта будет, сделаю к лету ) постараюсь всё разложить по полочкам и ничего не упустить. Ещё хочу сделать отдельный ремонтный ролик по сервису реле в MX-5050, поскольку в них также нередко встречаются болячки в виде окислений (в частности, в сигнальных реле негерметичного исполнения).

Thanks Jim! Yes, my Goot working properly for 15 years already!

Thanks!!

Thanks for rating!

Thanks! :)

You likely already found them, but I believe the part number is KWOH009. Overpriced these days, but worth it as they’re proprietary 🤷‍♂️ Good luck!

Брат, 💪🤝

Thanks! Best wishes to Vietnam ❤️

I have not tried to remove the plastic buttons, maybe they are just glued on. I'll figure it out, and maybe record a video. Have you already solved the problem?

Hi, yes, 0.12 ohm is an excellent resistance, including wiring. I lubricated the tension arm with a well-known CIATIM Russian-made grease. You can use any technical grease that is suitable for machines and mechanisms, lithium will work well. Of course, avoid to use edible oils and greases, they usually thicken quickly and can also cause corrosion.

Hello David, the fact is that MX-5050BII has a fixed tape tension. The motors torque depends on the resistors, which is inserted into the motor circuit using the relay contacts. There is no other control electronics that could create such oscillations if it fails. The main cause of oscillations is the use of tape with sticky syndrome (like the old Ampex for example) and tape deposits on this arm. Do all types/brands of tape experience shoulder oscillation? Are there oscillations when playing new tapes (RMG, RTM, ATR) ?

Steve, good to see you! Thanks for your feedback and rating. I had concerns that this video would be very long if I made the titles longer. I will keep in mind your wishes in new videos… But in this video, at least some big titles, it can pause and read slowly… 👍❤️

Спасибо большое! 🤗 Камера - Lumix G80, снимал в 4K (поскольку мелкие детали всё ж захватываются подробней, чем в обычном full hd)… Подписка взаимно! У тебя вообще масса разных полезных видео )

Thanks Joseph! Tantalum cap values: 0.1uF 35V

@@Anthony_Scott_Studioservice Thank-you!

Hi Steve, sorry for the long answer, in recent months it has been difficult to get free time to come here... Have you solved the problem with the operation of the motor board? Perhaps somewhere there is a faulty transistor, or something just soldered off.

Thank you! Yes it is. These SKF bearings carry the official factory marking 608-2Z, but also carry the alternative marking 608-ZZ (more likely to be from other manufacturers).

Sorry for the very long reply, thanks for the comment! Yes, it is desirable to put the plastic bracket with three sensors in place at least approximately, but I don’t think that the overall positioning will affect anything. The main thing is that inside, between the sensors, there should be the right angle. The sensors should not touch the rotor, but should be located with a small gap. Otherwise, of course, they will make it difficult to rotate, and will be broken (there is a rather fragile ferrite alloy). If the shaft rotates with difficulty, this should not be, and it is necessary to check what is causing the difficulty in rotation ...

@@Anthony_Scott_Studioservice Thanks Anthony. I eventually completed the rebuild of the capstan motor and everything is running well. I've also replaced a pinch roller and impedance roller and some other minor repairs and mods. My machine is running really well thanks to you great video. I hope you are doing well at this time sir. Ben

@@maestrobpm911 Hi Ben, thank you very much, I'm glad to hear it!

Hello, thanks for the feedback! I lubricated the pinch roller with Motul gear oil, and if you do not have special oil for tape recorders and moving mechanisms, you can use a quality transmission oil with a good degree of cleaning.

@@Anthony_Scott_Studioservice thank you very much!

Hello Luther! Thanks for your comment, it's appreciated. Yes, the fact is that in the 5050 manual you will not find any procedures related to cleaning or replacing internal electronic components, and usually this is the task of a specialized service center where they know what to do. Within a month, I plan to shoot at least two or three videos. One will be dedicated to cleaning buttons and potentiometers, that's your request. The second video will be dedicated to the total replacement of Op-Amps, and the third video will be on the complete alignment of the 5050 machine. I would be very happy to make more videos, and more often, but alas, most of the time I have a lot of work. Thank you!

@@Anthony_Scott_Studioservice i need a video showing how to calibrate this deck

@@jn3750 Calibration videos are in my plans for the next couple of months... I'll do that.

@@Anthony_Scott_Studioservice Repro and Rec calibrations with Mrl tapes are highly desired. Thanks

Wow, wow 😳 thank god you're alive!... Yes, these machines have really dangerous voltage, and besides the fact that it can be on the old switch, it is present on the boards of the reel motors at the top of the machine under the cover. So all the guys reading the comments here, be careful and take care of yourself.

@@Anthony_Scott_Studioservice You should always be aware of mains voltage present in any mains-powered device and where it is. I just wanted to emphasise that particular point about the power switch of this machine, but it could equally apply to others. Never assume the same model within a brand to be exactly the same across versions. In this case I had worked on a later iteration and took it for granted, the earlier one was the same when clearly, it wasn't. Thank you for your reply.

I congratulate you that the problem was found and you just glued the sensor (although I answered your previous message a couple of minutes ago in an attempt to understand what is happening with the board). Yes, you are absolutely right and noticed that I put the steel angles upside down at the end of repair, thanks! Apparently, in the process of shooting, I did it automatically, without thinking. Because at that moment, probably, my attention was focused on the framing of the shot in the shoot. True, two hours earlier, my friend came to visit for a while, who took the camera and took a couple of moving shots. But I did everything else myself. And when you do everything alone, repairs and filming, sometimes something is missed.

Hi Jake, thanks for the feedback (and sorry for the long reply). I used SKF 608-2Z bearings (very good bearings, and they could be quickly ordered in our city, which became the determining factor in the choice). I wish you success in the repair and restoration, and I hope that everything works out for you. If you have any questions, write.

Okay, so I adjusted brake bands and brake plates to spec and it's fine and smooth. And also I adjusted the pinch roller pressure, which was wayyy too hard. Cleaned and lubed parts and it's much more smooth now in operation. Recorded from a cd to a nos Maxell UD-XL and it sound really great. Kind regards.

Hello, thanks for the feedback. I am based in Russia and have occasional professional analog equipment repairs for international clients. But at the current time, international transport communication in our country has been disrupted. I've repaired a few 5050s, as well as individual sent boards from 5050,.. and we have a couple of machines in our studio too. Within a month I'm going to make two or three videos, one of them will be about the total replacement of the op amp in the 5050. So if you can't find a local specialist, and you may have some questions for me about a self-upgrade, let me know, maybe I can help with advice.

Hi, it usually never happens that these little coils burn out. If possible, take a photo and post a link here.

Thanks for the question! Yes, I repair and restore mainly analog studio equipment, but I'm in Russia. I have some experience working for clients from other countries (in particular, repairing boards and cards from tape machines, as well as cleaning microphone capsules). But for now, at the current time, the process of international shipment between Russia and Europe (and America) has been suspended. There are a couple of well-known Russian companies that offer courier delivery from other countries, but this can be somewhat more expensive and longer.

@@Anthony_Scott_Studioservice Thx Anthony yes we are forbidden to do any business at all with the Russian Federation and could be fined. In the 21st Century to be doing Hitler or barbaric type behavior is extremely shameful. Building Empires is and should be a thing of the past. I certainly hope this doesn’t escalate to an international thing (WWIII) or the whole world will be destroyed. Thank God your neighbor Germany turned things around from using death & destruction as a weapon. Be well & take care

Thanks! I use B-7000 glue (there is also a similar glue, but black, T-7000). Such glue is generally known, since it is used by craftsmen when replacing displays on smartphones. The situation with heads can sometimes be a problem, as they wear out during the operation of the tape machine, or machines with already worn heads come to me for repairs… There are skilled people who do head relapping with their own hands, and I have several times turned to one such specialist for such work. In your country, I think, there are also such persons, and it will be very useful to find them. Of course, you need to look for and learn about them in the area of ​​​​tape machines users, and a good head man will always have good recommendations. Yes, and of course, you can still find good Otari heads on Ebay, usually in a whole stack, less often individually. But in this case, you need to be careful when choosing, so as not to buy worn ones.

@@Anthony_Scott_Studioservice Thanks for the quick response. Does this glue stay sticky, or getting hard as glass? Another issue.... Is there a "free wheel" function on this machine? It's very useful when threading the tape. I have been thinking of having a button to activate the solenoid to open the breaks without reel motors running.

@@bertiljreng258 This glue stay slightly sticky and plastic. This machine does not have a "free wheel" function, and in the Stop position, the reels are fixed with felt brakes. If you leave the reels free, then when threading the tape, a piece of tape will sag from the supply reel, which will not allow you to thread it well with tension.

@@Anthony_Scott_Studioservice - I guess so, but it is tempting tough. :-)

MRL short cal tape, but these tape were made in MRL by special order of one of the well-known tape technicians - Wayne Gunn (unfortunately he is no longer alive...), we were well acquainted and communicated. If you want the exact number, I can look tomorrow and let you know. But... if you need an MRL tape, you can write directly to them and request the tape for you, giving your desired parameters: tape width, speed, reference level (nWb/m) and equalization standard (NAB or IEC) of your machine. They have short "minimalistic" tapes that contain the minimum required set of signals: white noise, reference level, and frequencies (10, 16 kHz, as well as 50 and 100 Hz), this is beneficial in terms of dollar/efficiency but if of course you have one or two 2-track recorders and you want buy a MRL tape for non-often periodically align.

I used SKF Explorer 608-2Z bearings.

Ersa FMKANC32 flux paste

@@Anthony_Scott_Studioservice Thank you

Thank you!

560 Ohm 1 watt

Wow, unfortunately I have not repaired this type of capstan. It's probably one of the older Otari models (that didn't have an electronic tape counter yet) ?

@@Anthony_Scott_Studioservice thxx for the rapid reply! Its an 8tr 1/2" deck from '88 WITH digital counter. May I send you a pic? Where to? Many thxx

@@eddisc4205 send please on e-mail: mobile88studios@gmail.com

@@Anthony_Scott_Studioservice also: @13:13, after cleaning, can a cap be installed across the leads to suppress the spark? What value? Thxx

@@eddisc4205 This is an interesting question, but it is impossible to say for sure that it will reduce sparking. This is not an AC circuit, where arcing on shutdown is mainly from self-induction. There is DC, and self-induction is usually eliminated by blocking diodes and capacitors on the motor control board. If you solder a capacitor in parallel with this switch, then when the contacts are closed, there will most likely be increased sparking. In addition to the fact that start-up transients will occur and the capacitors on the board will be charged, the button contacts will in addition discharge the capacitor soldered to them, and the larger its capacity, the more intense the spark will be. Yes, but at the same time it can be assumed that the sparking when the contacts open (and it is very small when the contacts open) may decrease. You can experiment with a 220 microfarad capacitor value. But in series with it, you need to turn on a resistor of about 10 ohms to reduce the spark load on the contacts when the capacitor is discharged.

Thanks for the high rating! ❤️😊

Russian Federation! )

Вадим, вы из России? :) По кнопкам там ничего сложного, набор стандартный для любой проф машины. Справа налево: 1) переключатель ослабления чувствительности микрофонного входа (либо вообще отключает микрофонный преамп, если не пользуетесь). 2) переключатель референсного потока намагничивания, его положения соответствуют уровням 185-250-320 нановебер/м, 3) переключатель стандартов эквализации (по-нашему, коррекции). 4) собственно уровень выходного сигнала на выходах (если у вас проф сетап, то high; если бытовой, то скорее всего low). Если в знаниях есть некоторые пробелы, тут можно читануть и восполнить основы (это совместная статейка с основателем катушечного форума): analog.pro/tape_recorders/play_adjustment/play_adjustment.html Или спрашивайте, если что-то будет не ясно…

@@Anthony_Scott_Studioservice Спасибо большое за ответ. Я из Канады. Трудно найти знающего специалиста. Пока провожу косметический ремонт, провода необходимые купил. Начну подключать, думаю возникнут вопросы. Пока изучу то что вы написали. Да, там еще слева от головок Cue, это для чего? Я в радиотехнике начинающий. А Вы где живете?

@@VadimDolgovArt ну не спеша думаю справитесь, если будут трудности, спрашивайте, никаких проблем. Я из Брянска. В студии у меня периодически трудится один 5050 и широкий MX-80; дома ещё один 5050. С магнитофонами в плане ремонта дружу давно, где-то со школьных лет. Сложилось так, что вначале это было увлечение, как и у многих (переписывали, слушали), позже постепенно затянуло в проф сектор (радио, студии звукозаписи), и ракурс сервиса-ремонта магнитофонов сместился к технике другого плана, а Олимпы-Электроники были забыты как страшный сон 😀 Если вы делаете самостоятельные шаги в профилактике и настройке магнитофона (тем более профессионального), то никуда не деться, оч желательно хотя бы в общих чертах погрузиться в знания в области магнитной записи звука и особенности настройки магнитофонов, взаимосвязей электрических параметров. Нужно иметь измерительное оборудование и иметь понимание магнитофонной метрологии. Если, конечно, стоит задача не просто крутить какие-то старые катушки с антресоли ради забавы, а получить качественный звук на правильно настроенном магнитофоне. Именно в электронику и схемотехнику вам серьезно вникать не обязательно, достаточно знать/понимать азы хотя бы в общих чертах. Специалиста в идеале нужно искать также в проф секторе, который в былые времена обслуживал аналоговую технику на радио, ТВ или в студиях звукозаписи. Сами понимаете, не всё можно отремонтировать дистанционно через интернет, дав советы или рекомендации, поэтому наличие спеца очень желательно. Рычажок Cue в режиме перемотки плавно подводит ленту к головам, благодаря чему можно найти паузу между треками не слух. И сразу запаситесь оригинальным блоком голов про запас. Ибо сейчас их можно найти в продаже, а что будет лет через 10-15, неизвестно.

@@Anthony_Scott_Studioservice Легче самому все изучить, чем найти специалиста. С удовольсрвием погружусь в изучение. Прочитал вашу статью внимательно, вначале все было понятно, под конец уже поплыл :) . Вопрос где найти калибровочную ленту с правильными параметрами и правильные измерительные приборы. А где еще можно с вами пообщаться? Вопросов много. Послал заявку в друзья на Фэйсбуке.

@@VadimDolgovArt пусть не с первого раза, но думаю, в процессе станет понятно :) Калибровочную ленту можно приобрести в ваших краях - найдите ближайшего дилера MRL (согласно списка www.mrltapes.com/intdlrs.pdf , или обратитесь к ним напрямую, сейчас эта компания состоит фактически из нескольких человек, заказов не много, и они обрабатывают их напрямую. Какую выбрать- это зависит от того, как вы будете применять магнитофон (только слушать или же записывать, с какими лентами работать, на какой скорости). Если к примеру, планируете работать на 15ips, записывать с применением новой ленты (sm910, 900, atr), то есть смысл переключить аппарат на IEC EQ, 320 nwb/m ref flux, 15 ips, и соответственно калибровочную ленту заказывать с такими параметрами. Но ленты оч разные по назначению, есть одночастотные, многочастотные, есть и короткие, где на 4 минутном отрезке записан весь джентльменский набор сигналов (и стоят они дешевле). Поэтому по выбору марки надо подумать. На ФБ увы не могу добавить вас при всём желании, поскольку в связи с известной ситуацией доступ на платформу для пользователей РФ заблокирован. Да и пока мне нет смысла там быть - до этого момента я брал международные заказы по сервису, а сейчас нарушена вся транспортная логистика (ко мне не могут ничего прислать, и я ничего отправить), и денежные переводы также закрыты… а пообщаться с удовольствием, но это лучше пишите на почту - mobile88studios@gmail.com

Thanks, yes!

Здравствуйте! Если вы имеете в виду синий конденсатор, похожий на каплю, то это танталовый конденсатор. Ёмкость 0.1 uF.

⁠@@Anthony_Scott_Studioservice Спасибо большое!Я не профессионал Просто хотел попробовать свои силы в новом хобби 😀У меня точно такое же темное пятно . Меняю все как у Вас 😀 Вопросов конечно больше чем деталей в магнитофоне😀Еще раз большое спасибо

@@igorsvoyatsky600 не за что ) ну что, Ваше хобби будет весьма увлекательным 😅 Резистор, образовавший потемнение на гетинаксе, я вынес вверх (на его длинных ногах), чтобы он больше не грел плату и не сокращал срок службы новым (заменённым) конденсаторам. Если будут затруднения, спрашивайте 😊

If you hear a noise inside the motor, this is not normal, you need to find a specialist nearby and get him. It is better if it is a pro specialist in the field of analog tape recorders and has a reputation. This is if you want a pro serviced machine for professional use in your studio. For many musicians, myself included, at one time had to learn electronics in order to repair of some gear in the studio and also create self-made devices ... but this happened during the years of study at school, with all those who tried to make their first recordings )) You can too, even if you are already old enough (20, 30, 40 or more) ... here it is a matter of time and practical meaning. And if you have a friend who knows electronics well, you can restore your 5050 together, since there are no miniature SMD components, and everything is not so complicated that it could be broken the 5050 machine without special knowledge. As a hobby, I think it can be quite normal. The only dangerous moment is the presence of dangerous voltages inside the machine, you need to be on the alert.

Hi Three Winds, thanks! My e-mail: mobile88studios@gmail.com

Thanks for the comment, I also wanted some silence in this video. Just work. In addition, the selection of music also delays the editing of the next video and its publication...

A very strange phenomenon. I looked in the audio editor for the waveform of your signal. At the moment when a click is heard, the signal drops out for a short time (0.1 - 0.2 ms). And the drops have exactly the same character in both channels and almost the same shape in all drops. I would like to ask you a couple of questions to start. Try connecting headphones to the "Headphones" output, do you also hear those crackles there? Are these crackles heard on all tapes?

@@Anthony_Scott_Studioservice Thanks for the tip. I found out the problem lies with my audio capture device Focusrite Scarlett 2i2. Time to replace the capacitors on it.

Looks like it's a bad 15ft USB cable. I tried a 6ft USB cable and no noise. I'll get a new 15ft cable.

@@rsuryase It's good that you easily found the culprit this way. While listening your file I assumed problem was the recording host (when I looked at the wave in zoom, I became even more of this thought). 👍👍👍