i dont mean to be so offtopic but does anybody know a trick to get back into an instagram account? I somehow forgot my login password. I love any tips you can offer me

@Raiden Jason Instablaster :)

@Huxley Kendrick I really appreciate your reply. I found the site on google and I'm trying it out atm. Seems to take quite some time so I will reply here later with my results.

@Huxley Kendrick it worked and I now got access to my account again. I'm so happy:D Thanks so much, you really help me out!

@Raiden Jason Happy to help =)

I've sold the boat so I can't answer for that but I can tell you that we built a deck the same way in another boat for my brother and when he took that one off to make a larger removable aluminum deck after like 6+ years of the treated on aluminum there was no sign of any issue.

@@gnsoutdoors4020 well thats good news then. I'm about to start building a deck and I've been going back and forth on wood choice

www.estoconnectors.com/

Thanks!

For corners, I used the adjustable "T" pieces (5AJS33) and for straight runs used the standard "T" connectors (532100). At the bottom of each leg I used the flat "T" (532300) that is designed to connect the tubing to a flat surface. Those flat "T" pieces don't offer a ton of strength so reinforcing them with a shelf bracket like I did is necessary for some extra strength when/if you attach the legs to your deck. Then 90's (521100) for the end if the straight runs. The nice thing is you can customize what ever you build with all the different connectors available. I also used just the standard 1" connectors, didn't use anything fancy

I used a clamp on 55lb thrust trolling motor mounted next to the main motor some with this boat, but the river I was usually in had too much current for the troller to push us up river, so I usually just used the main motor. But in areas with less current the trolling motor was good

@@gnsoutdoors4020 so no foot petal. ?

Not on that boat the way I built it, my brother did a similar build but left space at the bow and had a bow mounted troller with foot pedal and it worked just fine. My current boat I run a bow mounted with a remote so I don't need the foot pedal and can control from anywhere on the boat.

They were bolted on through the hull. Which can cause some corrosion to the aluminum when using treated wood, but I never noticed any issue and my brother built his the same way and recently built a new aluminum deck for his boat and when he removed the treated wood after several years there was little to no corrosion.

www.harborfreight.com/generators-engines/generators/2000-watt-super-quiet-inverter-generator-62523.html This is the generator I'm currently using, the generator I have in this video doesn't seem to be available on the harbor freight web site

Yeah I wouldn't do a raised platform but a flush platform would be fine for a boat that size

They come set up for 110. There are lots of LED flood lights available that run on 110 for home use that work great for bowfishing lights.

I used Esto Connectors: www.estoconnectors.com/

Lights were about $20 each, so I have about $200 in lights, probably $50 in the deck, 1 sheet plywood and a few 2x4's, think I was like $120 or so in the aluminum and connectors for the rail, and maybe $50 in the wiring. So I probably was a little over $400 in total give or take. Generator was another $100. I got a new generator inverter this year though, I will do a video soon on that as well.

There is a lot of airflow for cold air under the seat as there is about a 4" gap under the whole seat, I'm hoping between that and the vents I left in the corners will be enough plus piping the exhaust out the back should help. Once the weather warms up enough soon I'll take it for a test run, nice thing is if it gets hot it's easy to remove!

10-4.

Update-after finally getting to take a night to bowfish, it did get too hot and start to over heat. I removed the side panel on the water but kept the top, it redirects the noise and still gives me the ability to stand/sit there while not over heating.

It's a flexible stainless steel tubing that I matched the OD of my generator exhaust to the ID of the stainless tube.

These are the lights I put on the rear of the boat: www.amazon.com/dp/B07JJ11D6W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_GqYQCbJCBKATK And these are my front lights: www.amazon.com/dp/B00VFVGFWU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_.oYQCbT1RF521 I used the smaller ones in the back sho they could be mounted lower for shooting over from where I stand in the back, you could use the small ones in the front as well. Just remember, the small ones do not come with a male plug like the big ones do so you either have to add one or hard wire them in.

The power lead running into my switch box is a standard 110v 3 prong house plug, so o can plug that directly into the generator or for maintenance and such I can plug it into an extension cord to power the lights.

How would that work cause u would still be connecting 12v to 110

That boat was a 16' Jon

I cleaned and prepped the whole boat and then used rustolium paint to paint it all

Sounds good bud I am building a 16 x 52 flat bottom and I’m for sure going to take ideas from your setup

Awesome, good luck with your build man!

It's a 16' x 48"

I bought 4 8' sections of 1" square tube and had just a little left over

Thanks! Is it pretty sturdy with just the L brackets mounted to the platform?

Yeah, we have had people fall against it with no issue, though I wouldn't go much taller than I did to keep the leverage on the L brackets down

Sweet! Just ordered the parts, hopefully my light setup will turn out half as good as yours haha. Appreciate the help!

Good luck man! I dont remember if I mentioned it but I did put self tapping screws into each connector to really lock it in.

Maryland, the boat is actually for sale currently.

@@gnsoutdoors4020 I live in Oklahoma

@@gnsoutdoors4020 how much tho just wondering

@@joshcampbell5543 I am asking $5k for it including some extra things like an entire extra lower unit for the motor