Totally agree with you .

How do you feel about having 2 GFCI outlets in the same box?

@@Dysl3xicDog it's a little unusual, but if there are two circuits in the same box then it could be necessary.

Buickman455 - 100% agree about the drywall screws. I carry a Klein 6-in-1 tapping tool to restore the threads if they have had an oddball screw installed. Worst case scenario if the ear is totally blown out I'll tap it out to a #8 using the tapping tool, and use a #8 screw I carry for these cases. Some newer townhouses around me simply use 2 layers of 1/2 inch drywall for fire-break and sound barrier between the units, but the electrical boxes are set based on a half inch setback, so almost every plug is floating half an inch above the box just on the "ears".

I found out the hard way there were two circuits in the box😂 I edited it out though.

Vertical or horizontal, either way, just as long as one is picked and stuck with. I prefer horizontal, that way any stray electrons don't just drop down the vertical channel.

Screws all horizontal with me. Shows attention to detail. Though lately I'm a fan of screwless faceplates

Agreed. Thanks Conrad.

Looked down here, but it was pointed out it's a #6 machine screw - 32 TPI or (NC - national coarse). I won't get into the type of head.

#6-32 on the box usually 👍

Haha this is so often said and generally it's never confused with the wrong 6 1/32. It's a great point that I bet most electricals don't question. I would think I have done this in the past. And I used to work at a fastener retail store. 😂

Took the words out of my mouth. 🤡. But what a helpful thing. Box extenders. Excellent topic.

I go with vertical because the dust particles are less likely to stick 🙂

@@bhami Have you ever seen a clean outlet cover with dusty screws?

@@bhami when unscrewing much easier to aim at horizontal screw with the driver than vertical where it might miss and scratch Beats me why we don't have PH2 on these

I actually edited out the part where I shocked myself😂. This wall had two plugs like this. I turned off the breaker for the first one, installed the extension and then started filming the video on the second one not realizing that the second one was in another circuit. I would have loved to leave it in but I get tired of getting raked over the coals in my videos.

@@vancouvercarpenter this sounds like a good opportunity for an outtakes/bloopers video Ben.

I have set the plate screws vertically for years. Now I know why. 😅

It just looks more professional. An OCD thing.

This is extremely important for a proper professional install. We aren't hacks here 😂

They could be separate circuits. You can see the Load connections are not used, which is expected regardless. I don't see the hot wires. Why 20 amp receptacles?

Thank you so much Roy!!! I hope you are well!!!

My electrician told me I would need to go to a wholesaler to find the two-gang extender. He did say the singles are at HD.

They also have (tubular) spacers that you cut down to the needed length and put the screws through to hold the fixture out at the correct distance.

@@VC-Toronto If the box is recessed by more than 1/4”, you need to use a box extender to be code compliant. If the surface material is combustible (e.g. wood), it has to be flush.

@@VC-Toronto Thank you.

@@tempesttube Thank you, the electrician put the boxes in before I could put the drywall in then disappeared. I am doing this on my own, and it's always good when people help you out.

Receptacles are outlets. Outlets are not necessarily receptacles. Here either term is fine.

Outlet is a electrical box to access electrical wiring , either for receptacle, switch , ceiling light , smoke detectors etc…

No, it’s French Canadian for Drywaller 😂

Those receptacles are on different circuits

It is the only way to convert the split receptacle we have in kitchen in Canada without replacing the 14/3 with 12/2 or using an expensive gfci breaker

This is a trend I've seen on a number of home remodels and fix-and-flips. All receptacles in the kitchen are GFCI and often (as in this case) 20A receptacles. I don't know where this comes from--some overly cautious interpretation of the code? Or a misunderstanding of how GFCIs work in the first place? It is possible in some kitchens to feature multiwire branch circuits, whereby each outlet on a receptacle is a different circuit (both tabs are broken on the screw terminals), and in the case they would be retrofitted with GFCIs, you might need to put in a double gang box with two GFCIs since you can't land two circuits on one GFCI (one per circuit). Also, NEC allows 15 amp receptacles on 20 amp circuits. The pass through current rating is greater than 15 amps on a 15 amp receptacle. The 20 amp version buys you the awkward looking receptacle that zero people own devices for. 20 amp circuits are great in kitchens to support multiple

To circuits in one box

Perhaps the existing receptacles were flush with the existing wall surface. What is your solution if that is the case?

@@ustabee6091 you cut the tile so the ears of the receptacle sit on top of tile and notch out for the screw. Sometimes screw is long enough to reuse, sometimes we have to add a longer screw

You still need the extenders to match code. The outlets are existing too far out of the box.

@@460sw3 So it’s OK to place the tile so it covers the top and bottom portion of the box? I suppose so since the tile isn’t flammable.

Actually??…..I take that Hefneresque moniker back: you’re more like a young & debonair if not dashing Clint Eastwood if you look at some of his early movies….plus he’s got a much better character (like yours) than the Hef.