Thank you so much! I’m glad I was able to help

no problem! im glad I could help

Hey that’s not true at all! I have a few of Canons SLR film cameras and overexpose/push or pull film. You can override the DX code reading on your camera

@@gbonii5673 yes I know you can, but you were showing this for cinema not static photography.

@@SterlingSigurdsen this is used for static photography. I’ve never done cinematography

Thank you so much! I’m glad it could help. Most developers will charge extra because they have to do your roll separate since it’ll be in the chemicals for a different amount of time. But people pull/push (mostly push) their film because it “properly exposes” it. So if you shot a roll of 800 at 1600; underexposing it would make it super dark and muddy where as pushing it will give you a more correct exposure. I hope that makes sense, I’m trying to make it to the point and not ramble on haha

There is no difference in that. You can set your meter to +1stop and it will do the exact same

Henry Danner Thanks a lot! I completely understand the confusion because it took me forever to full understand it all haha. But in terms of pushing/pulling with no over/under exposure, you can ask them to do it but your results aren’t going to be very good. Basically what is happening is say that you underexpose 400 film at 1600. The negative is going to be lighter (because it’s reversed negative vs positive). If you have the lab push that film, they’re leaving it in the chemicals longer which in turn darkens the negative to where it’s supposed to be for 1600 film in return “correcting” what you did in camera (it also adds the effects people are looking for because the film isn’t supposed to be shot at that iso). So technically yes, you can have the lab push/pull box speed film but all it’s going to do is extremely darken or lighten your image. You won’t get any cool colors or anything. I hope that makes sense. It does in my head but I know it can sound like jumble when I let it leave my head haha

Gbonii thanks for the reply. Definitely makes sense to me based of your through explanation. Once I learn to develop film it will probably be even more clear. Thanks verbal this video really helped me understand the whole concept of “rating” , “pushing” and “pulling”

Thank you! I appreciate it. And for color negative film I usually expose for the shadows. Film is opposite of digital where instead of retaining info in the shadows, it retains info in the highlights. It’s never a bad idea to overexpose negative film when shooting, you can do like 5 stops overexposed and still have a usable image

Thank you so much! I really appreciate that, I'm glad I can help. As for B&W, you can over/underexpose it but it just wont hold up as well as C41 color film so I wouldn't push it too far. 1-2 stops over or underexposed shouldn't give you any problems. I would say though that if you want to experiment with B&W film, try pushing HP5 or Tri-X to 1600. I always push those film stocks because it gives such a cool contrasty look.

@@gbonii5673 when pushing to 1600 do I set my iso on my camera to 1600 as well?

@@jhpeso yup! Meter for 1600 iso and make sure your lab knows to push it to 1600. If they don’t, your photos will just come out very underexposed

Thank you! I’m glad I could help. I use the RF 35mm 1.8 with an extension tube that I got off Amazon

Whichever one you use to meter for your photos. Your film can’t change iso, it’s stuck at what is us. When you change your iso in camera (or in the light meter), you’re just tricking the camera into thinking you’re shooting a different iso film. You can change both if you use both to read the light!

@@gbonii5673 thank you very much brother, finally someone who explained the right way, really appreciate it.

Any answer to this? Noone?

The effect will be the same.

It’s basically the same thing, most older film cameras just don’t have exposure comp but if yours does then you can definitely just use that!

Awesome, thanks for the feedback man. Looks like over exposing by a stop with that will be cheaper too as my lab charges extra to pull.

If your camera has a lightmeter and you set it to 200, it’ll read the light as if it’s 200iso film. If you’re trying to pull or overexpose then that’s what you want

Really just because of artistic approach/limitations. Over/underexposing will give very different results compared to push/pulling. A big scenario is; you really want to do a color photoshoot in a very low light area. They dont make 1600/3200 color film anymore so you use 800. You can either underexpose that film and get muddy shadows and lots of grain OR you could push that film 1600/3200 and get "properly" exposed photos with color shifts

What camera is it? I’m interested as to what camera only takes those 2. But I would set it to 100, always best to overexpose color negatives

@@gbonii5673 it’s a konica c35 ef p!! thank u for sharing this,it’s really helpful to me

Not exactly. All c41 film is developed at the same time/temp no matter what the iso is. Changing the time/temp is what pulls or pushes the film. That’s why chemicals decide push/pull and settings decide over/underexposure. Shooting Portra 400 at 200 and having them dev normal would be overexposing but if you shot it at 200 and told them to pull it 1 stop then it would be pulling the film. They will leave it in the chemicals for less time than normal c41 developing

Pulling 400 1 stop would be shooting it as 200. Pulling it two stops would be like shooting with iso 100. Pushing 1 stop would be 800, 2 stops 1600

Exposure and processing have completely different functions, and I referring only to black and white film. In black and white film the amount of detail that is carried in the shadow areas is determined by exposure only. You cannot add significant detail to the shadows by increasing development by any reasonable amount. Shadow detail is determined exclusively by exposure. In development the shadow portions of the negative develop completely fairly early in the development part. Maybe in the first three or four minutes if you have a seven minutes or so development time - which is a fairly common time. (For instance when I was using Tri-X my base development time was 7 minutes at 70 degrees f.) The highlight areas will continue to build density as long as they are in contact with an active developer solution until all the exposed silver in those areas is converted from silver halide crystals to metallic silver. Once that is done the film will not gain density since all the silver has been converted - which by the way will render negatives that are bullet proof. So we control shadow density, or detail, by exposure and we control image contrast by film development times. That's why, if you look at the film data sheets it usually says "suggested times". Time and experience will show you that most black and white films are rated at a very optimistic ASA. There are some very technical reasons why these things are the way they are. The best advice is to do a little experimentation. If you are processing the film yourself just be sure to always do everything the same way. If you have the film run commercially get to know the people at your lab and always use the same lab. Consistency is the key to getting better negatives.