Great video Tom. People need to remember, its a drill chuck for drilling holes with drill bits. Drill bits aren't for drilling a hole closer than 5 thou to the finish diameter. You want a hole within 1-2 thou, you ream. Want it closer than than, you ID grind. That chuck was perfect before new jaws and even more perfect now. Put it to use, make chips and make something cool.

Love your videos, always learning something new. Old stuff for you but Thank you from me

Great video Tom. I would call the 1st way you did it correct😁. You priced new jaws 😕. Got to love those great viewers.

Gotta love that you were able to save that chuck and then give it a bit of an upgrade along the way. Nice work, Tom!

Well Mr. Bozo may not be impressed but I certainly am, great video follow-up

Lazrus chuck, I really like that ! I resurrected an old drill press recently. I had seen it setting in a yard beside the driveway, been there for a couple months in the weather with no protection. Then I saw that it had been moved to the side of the house. I inquired about it but they weren't interested in selling it. Inquired again after two, three weeks and they were hesitant. Offered $25 dollars and they accepted. It needed a lot of work but the quill and spindle were rust free and turned easily. The top cover had quite a bit of damage the feed handle was broken, capacitors on the motor were smashed. (It looked like it had fallen off the truck) Quite a bit of rust on the tables and column. I straightened the cover, cleaned off the rust, ordered new capacitors for the motor, cut off the broken feed handles, drilled and tapped the hub for new handles, and ordered new ones from Grizzly. It cleaned up nice and has a three HP motor. I polished the chuck (3/4" !) and ordered a new chuck key. It runs smooth and true, has eight speeds. In all I have about $100 in it. I priced it online and a new one sells for $ 1,300. I'm happy ! Yes, sometimes old tools are worth a little work and second thought ! Enjoy your video's !

If mister Bozo were to look at the dial indicator from a horizonal view instead of a perpendicular view to the face, the tolerance would be ever closer... lol Nice rebuild and test. Thumbs Up!

Thanks for showing us how these chucks work. I think a better measurement of the actual chuck run out would be to measure it without the tail stock involved at all. It would be interesting to measure it with and without the tail stock support and see how much it changes.

Thank you for taking the time to share this with us. Good job as always.

Nice to see it saved from the scrap heap. The rust remover was amazing. Thanks for sharing.

I love learning from your videos!! Even if EVERYONE doesn’t agree with EVERYTHING you do... Please keep on making great content 👍🏻

I really appreciate these videos even if I'm not using the specific purpose (rebuilding the chuck) I learn about other ideas/ways of thinking and of course doing. Thank you.

For the curious, the finish is not rust pitted, it is hydraulically random knurled; gives extra traction for carpenters using it as a keyless chuck.

Your viewer saved you money AND heartache. Jacobs went out of business, and sometime around 2010 Danaher Tool Group bought the name, designs, and tooling. Today Jacobs is a Chinese brand. Same price, but with super soft "Chinesium" steel. I rebuilt my 34-02 and 34-33 chucks with Chinese kits and was very unhappy with the action and the concentricity, I was able to find one N/OS kit like yours (from the 1960s) on eBay and re-rebuilt the one that was more important to me. The other retained the Chinese steel parts. Three years later and the N/OS Connecticut-made parts look brand new. The Danaher-Jacobs parts are all deformed - the thin contact strip down the point of each jaw is ruined. Unless you install a bit all the way to the back it no longer holds the bit steady, so the eccentricity is magnified terribly. The jaws scratch very easily, the US-made ones are quite hard on the surface. I have another US Jacobs jaw/nut kit on the way so I can re-rebuild the one suffering from US Tool Offshoring Disease. It ought to be like new once the US jaws are installed. It is sort of cool to me that I came across this (and the first) video about this drill chuck's restoration when I did. Great content, sir. Adam was wrong on this one. You got a nice chuck for a few bucks. Congratulations!

The power of the internet Lazarus chuck. Thanks for a great rebuild restoration on something everyone will need to do sooner or later. Thanks for sharing.

Thanks Tom always enjoy your way of doing things and I like your videos

That clay clown is nightmare fuel. I do like that you are restoring this old Jacobs chuck.

If the chuck has a Jacob taper..pop it apart and then rotate it in 90°...mark it. Reassemble and try it again to see if it indicates to 0 run out. If still out. Take apart and rotate another 90° and try again. There is a spot where it will run true.

One of the internet's better uses, that being the contact for getting the jaws. Very cool. Thanks for the video. 👍

Great pair of videos. Now all I need is a flea market to find one in. But then I have a three jaw that has some rust .........

Very nice, you did a nice test we are happy for the chuck Tom. Lance & Patrick.

Great job, thanks for all the new things I've learned, never seen one torn apart. BTW, Starrett makes a 'free buy not wiggly' meter. LOL!

That Bozo/Adam voodoo doll just cracks me up! Great vid as always Tom. Glad you're back. greetings from the Netherlands, Mark

Nice re-work on the chuck👍👍👍

It ain't dead till it's buried or melted down and made into soup cans 😂🤣 good job great video 👍

Nice follow up Tom, I'd say that's pretty good. I wish the 23T3 Supreme Chuck I have would come apart so easily...

Good revisit Tom, can't hurt to have new jaws

Nice work in resurrection. I like the naming also ... lol

The other day while tightening a hose clamp with a screw driver I thought “I think a nut driver would have been a better choice “ Now I know it would be Just a note on fractured surfaces Lot of engine manufactures use fractured connecting rods They all say never use any type of cleaning rags on the fracture For cleaning use a spray cleaner due to debris being trapped in the fracture and not allowing proper contact on reassembly ( not accusing you of doing it just thought about it on the other video just didnt note it Thanks for all the great videos

GREAT VIDEO !!!

I always learn something new when I watch your videos. Thanks for sharing your knowledge.

"Free But Not Wiggly" sounds like a good Machinist's tee shirt.

You did a great job with that chuck

I would think the tail stock would remove error that would be present if it was measured while installed in a spindle socket.

Tom I appreciate you taking the time to explore the depths of this old chuck! You made a very good point a few times that the (your) intended service of this chuck/arbor is in a tailstock. The chuck is going to pretty much sit still. So the procedure/use will be to place a drill bit of some unknown quality into the chuck then drill a hole in something. Drill bits are not meant to drill precision holes right? That is done with boring bars or reamers. So really who cares about the TIR unless it is so bad that the desired goal of a rough hole close to desired size can't be accomplished.

Damn, thats an opportune gift!

It's always a good day when you post a new video. It seems like you would need a larger indicator tip to reduce the effects of the pitting on your reading.

great video , thanks..

Nice job Tom

Good video. Very cool of him to send a jaw set. Because there would be no way I'd spend 100.00 $ + on a new jaw kit , just to lose .001 run out. You sticker came last week.. thank you for that.. Doug.

Real nice work, you can mark the chuck/ taper relation with a sharpie try it 90 degrees and sometimes cancel some of the chucks zig with some of the tapers zag. You'd do that in the spindle your gonna use it in to cancel that part of the equation .002 id say is dang good thanks again good edutainment i hit the thumbs up too

I agree with the comments. If you were able to clock on a full diameter instead of the tang of the Morse taper you would expect zero throw as the concentricity is controlled by the centre in the centre hole. Also the centre forces the axis into line even if it's inclination is to be out of true. Having said that I really enjoyed watching. Very interesting and informative. I'm just an armchair critic.

The only jacobs chuck we have that runs sub 1 thou constantly had the arbor turned in place. It's 5 thou under 1/2", but still runs dead true in a collet. All of the rest have some wiggle.

The only machine shop channel where I have ever heard the word pedantic. Had to go look it up. Anyway this video was a great chuckup.

You mention that it's intended use is stationary chuck (in a lathe) as if to "discount" the runout. I am far from an expert in any aspect of machining stuff, but 0.003" off center in a lathe tailstock still produces a hole larger than intended. I have enjoyed the restoration and rebuild and the measurements etc in this build. Every time i watch seasoned veterans work I learn something.

Tom i salute this one it's as good as it can get 😨🙊🙌

Hey Tom, I own 8 or 9 Jacobs chucks and they all have their collars even with the back of the chuck. I saw yours leaves about 1/8" exposed. probably not a big deal, just letting you know the way mine are. They all work perfectly and to the best of my knowledge they were set at the Factory that way as I have NEVER disassembled them. Most of them were purchased new, only two were bought slightly used so I doubt they were ever disassembled either.

not to give mr. bozo any ideas, but wouldn't it be more realistic to test runout w/o using the tailstock? under normal use the chuck/arbor combo would be held by the taper end only; as in one end, not both. not trying to split hairs, just curious.

Hi Tom, have watched most of your vid , Pretty brilliant, Just wondered after having watched the Jacobs chuck rebuild what if any was Abom's reaction, given the initial reaction that it was "Garden Furniture" Ha !!! Kind Regards Mike from Cornwall ,UK

Nice of him to send you those in. I was hoping you were going to compare the runout to your chuck off the mill. See if that was better or worse.

When you put the chuck in the lathe - I was hoping to see a skim-cut over that pitted arbor. Sometimes, dreams need to stay dreams :)

Classically, drilling is not a high precision application. If one needs more precision than this chuck gives, you turn to boring or reaming.. That taper is clearly well used, yet it stayed with factory limits. It would be nice to see how this chuck measures up to the other chucks in the shop. They would have had much better care. It seems a great example of caring for a Jacobs chuck. Great Work!

Great Video: Indicating with the tailstock center engaged influences the T.I.R. I was disappointed that you didn't indicate it both ways ,engaged and disengaged. Did you notice you got the best reading when you close to the tailstock center. Like Dick Clark would say: I'll give it an 85 ,the music was great, but it was difficult to dance to .

Tom, I love that you got the runout to be better-than-spec, particularly with a 3/4" pin in the lathe! Purely for curiosity's sake, I wonder if you'd get better than 0.0025" runout of you did the "half capacity" thing and chucked a 3/8" pin.

Love it.

"So I changed the setup" That's always a good thing when you are comparing the runout. lol

yes, a WRCH is an accepted unit of measure. Not to be confused with the much coarser RCH or CH.

I Have a 1/2" chuck I used for a long time with one jaw out of sink , my drilling was always a little of center I finely took it a part yesterday May 25th 2020 The jaws do not have any thread at all like on the paper lucky for me I timed the Jaws by the other end , It worked out fine Now My drill bit is strait and in the center ...

considering the consistency of the reading I would say it's not the chuck that has runout but the tapered arbour. Possibly due to rust. Could probably true it up if you have taper attachment on lathe. Just a skim cut, or grind. IF you were one of the "anally retentive" accuracy types on a drill chuck that will never move in a tailstock quill.

I'm not sure of the test.. it is restricted at both ends. It conforms to the confinement. (But I'm new at this. Am I missing something?)

Nice "resurrection." I would have liked to see an indicator run on the inside of the Jacobs taper at two points. (You would probably need a tenths indicator to get measurements so close to where the jaws are clamped.) The arbor may have been bad (either as-made or tweaked later). I also agree with Dave T. that forcing the tip of the arbor to center with the tailstock (which may or may not be perfectly in line with the spindle axis) could influence the reading. (And the center in the tip of the arbor might have been inaccurate or damaged.) There are so many ways for the chuck to be "off" and some are probably very hard to measure. Simple off jaw axis and parallel, on jaw axis (at a single location) but tilted, off jaw axis and tilted, off jaw axis and skewed. (Note that if skewed there will be no place where it can be on axis.) Checking for tilt or skew would require "clocking" several measurements at various orientations. At some point this becomes an exercise in "because I can" rather than an economic choice - even at several hundred bux per 18N chuck.

The big takeaway is that if you see a Jacobs ball bearing chuck or Albrech keyless chuck for sale is that repair parts are available (see McMaster-Carr for an idea of prices for various sized chucks). These parts aren't cheap so you have to consider that in deciding if the chuck is worth buying. But if you can get the chuck for a few bucks, it may be worth $150 for a repair kit (e.g. a 5/8" Albrech) to have a $500 chuck. If you have time to search and wait, you may find repair parts (especially Jacobs) on evil bay that someone has left over at a reasonable price. Cheers from NC/USA

The runout test showed similar values at near the center of the assembly, and with the indicator very close to the small end of the taper. If I saw that, the first thing I would do is take a close look at the condition of the arbor center.

In my humble opinion please remove the arbor and indicate the inside of the Jacobs taper if you are interested in the accuracy of the chuck. Once you add the arbor and then the tailstock center one no longer knows what you are measuring. I really appreciate the video as I have two of these chucks and now know how to service them! Keep up the videos I love them.

Great resurrection! I'm probably in the group that finds the measurement of the result to be the most interesting (likely because I had an issue with my mill & ended up regrinding the spindle taper)...... Feel free to correct me; but introducing the tailstock ends up limiting the axial runout that would exist, and the measurement on the small end of the taper is essentially testing the relationship between the MT taper & the center that the TS is residing in-? I understand you not going to the trouble; but wouldn't the most correct way to check the runout of the new jaws: cut the JT taper on a shaft in the lathe.... install the chuck....grip an endmill/bit/ground shaft and have at it? Thanks again for your great videos!

Love the Chuck...hard to kill them things....mR Bozo looks more like Mr Bill from Saturday Night Live from back in the day...

If the TIR runout on the MT shank close to the chuck body translates directly to what it is on the jaws then your runout is just about double what my brand new Albrecht had. That's still not too shabby for a rusted half seized up pos chuck that no one wanted it started out as. And as a non rotating tailstock chuck it should be more than fine. I suspect the shank might be showing more runout than the chuck jaws would.

Hey Tom, can't put my head around why you would use the tailstock for this....it will reduce runout significantly

Thanks. No Bozo needed ever.

verry cool

Good job! Kinda would have liked to see the runout from the original 3/4" stock, you might of eliminated more than you think! Always keep that control group in tact then make changes later with all experiments ;) Keep it pedantic! (you are the only person i know that uses that word in real life aside from myself haha).

I am curious as to whether it is better or worse than your other “good chuck”

Do not use the tailstock center, you are biasing the outcome. Try it again with the chuck just gripping the mandrel and the taper end running in free air.Off Topic I know, but what was the outcome of the Bullet Vice you made, is it sold or is it still in your display cabinet ?

Chuck in tailstock, coaxial indicator in the 3 jaw, on a dowel pin in the Chuck?

Man I love me some videos from Öx Tööls Cö

An amazing journey from the start of the first video, and a very generous donation to your channel. Although my brother is a time served engineer and now has a PhD in the subject, much to my father's disappointment I know naff all about the subject. That might explain my present confusion. At the beginning of the first video the rust was fairly well set in and left a lot of pitting, does that pitting not affect the readings you are getting?

How would you go about regrinding the bad jaws ? It would be a pretty hard and interesting set up

if you watch closely at 16:53 to 16:58 you will see the arbor move when he tightens the tail stock into it so there is more run-out in that chuck than he thinks

Hi, Tom. I'm curious how much of that runout is caused by the Morse taper, and how much is the actual chuck head itself? Surprised you didn't remove the taper & indicate the inside of the chuck, or test it with a different taper attachment. Anyway, thanks for the video, it's always interesting to see an abused tool come back to life.

Putin in the center will negate some of, if not most of, the runout.

Mr. Bozo sent me a star for my forehead because he knew i had worried about the chuck not being seated/dropped down deep enough for the key's threading to have full engagement with the chuck-head gearing track. I think he likes me because we both approve of Mirthful Irreverence whenever and wherever opportunity presents. In return, may i offer him a Lifetime License Key to my unpatented and untrademarked quote: "And with that, may I once again raise a toast to Mirthful Irreverence Everywhere. [ Cultivate A Sense Of Wholesome Emotional Hygiene ]" .

Here's an idea how about making your own set of jaws for a chuck? Show exactly how to cut the thread.

@oxtoolco why not mount the chuck in the spindle? Doesn't your lathe have a sleeve to mount the same taper in the spindle?

You chucked a chuck in a chuck,chucked by a bigger chuck.There is crazy things going on.

Back from the brink and in the pink!

It seems like the measurement close to the tailstock should have a lot less run out than it does. I wonder if the taper is concentric with the center drill on the end?

Not bad, you took some yard art and resurrected it. I do have a question though. If you would have put a MT3 adapter in the spindle bore and inserted the drill chuck in it, would it have provided an accurate reading or would there be a possibility of errors from the condition of the arbor and other things multiplying and causing an even worse reading? Thanks as always.

I get the feeling that little Mr. Bozo figure largely represents the comment section of your videos, with a little self-deprecating humor thrown in. Regardless, excellent vid as always.

Nice video, thanks. You could compare it with your good chuck to get rid of the nay-sayers.

Is it possible to take a skim cut to remove the runout and have it still fit or are they so close to tolerance it would be under size regardless of the amount removed

What Jacobs wedges fit that mt3/jt4 arbors? I can't find anything for mine.

due to taper shaft has a bad surface but not effect to its functional, will oxtoolco consider to use an oppsive way? place taper into spindle and crab the hard pin and read it cantilever, compare with the outer ring's readout?

Yes I agree with Steve, on the lathe or what ever the first rebuild was better than any import, besides would it been worth sinking the rebuild price in it? Since you got the kit as a gift it did make some improvement. The real fact is who left the chuck to rust should have been beat severely got such stupidity

Did you indicate the carrier shaft in the lathe chuck first?

where'd you get that apron? i hadn't noticed you switched away from the ben davis until just now. i'm observant.

A chuck holding a smaller chuck, smaller chuck holding a piece of round stock to check the runout on a drill chuck. How many more chucks could you get involved in this?

Mr Bozo just whispered that you should have measured the inside of the chuck taper for the runout.

Got a #19 Super Chuck that has one jaw that will not extend with the other two and is jammed in so the chuck will only retract - open? - half way. The chuck isn't rusted or been beaten on. Any suggestions how to get the thing apart so I can assess the damage, clean and lube the thing? I tried pressing it apart as usual but there was clearly something jammed by the out-of-position jaw.

Tom, sorry to be pedantic but just for interest, was was the run-out on your final hard bar, chuck in a chuck setup? Great info. Kindest regards. Joe.

Wouldn't you get a fair (maybe fairer) comparison by putting the taper of the drill chuck in the tailstock, like you'll be using it, then holding a gauge pin in the jaws of the Jacobs, and indicating the pin with a spindle-mounting indicator clamped to a fresh-cut piece of stock in your headstock/3-jaw/6-jaw lathe chuck?