thanks!

he needs to get into ASMR lol

I have not. I usually don’t use foam roller pads as they sometimes leave bubbles in the finish and they really don’t hold that much paint. If your looking for something that would apply the paint faster and not too concerned about the final look, I would use a 4” mini roller frame with 3/8” (or 1/2”) nap. It will apply the paint faster than brushing, but will leave roller marks if you do not back-brush.

I'm not sure you will like the end result. The major problem is that the new lighter trim will most likely make the old trim look really dirty. I'm afraid the only way to truly tell is to do a test spot of the new paint on some of the trim, then see how it looks. Take some safe release tape (a low adhesion tape) and tape it onto some of the trim, then simply paint the tape making sure not to get any of the new paint color on the old trim, just put the paint on the tape. It will probably take two coats to cover the tape color. When you are done, and had a chance to look at it and see what you think, simply remove the tape. Here is a video I did on taping up the baseboard when it's over carpet. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/i8x7qZyF0Muwpas.html If you are patient with the prepping, you should be just fine. If you tape the carpet up, do not apply too much paint where the tape meets the bottom of the baseboard, apply two very light coats. Make sure the paint is completely dry when you pull the tape. Once dry if you find that the paint has created a seal between the bottom of the trim and the tape, push down on the tape right where it meets the bottom of the baseboard to "break" the paint. Please let me know if you need any clarifications. Thanks!

I use a brush almost exclusively as I prefer the finish it leaves over rolling, which yes, will leave stipple marks. But a brush will leave brush marks so it just depends on what you can live with. If you want a super smooth finish, the best way to achieve that is with a sprayer, but that involves a lot of prep work and some knowledge of how to spray. You could also use a product like Floetrol which when added to a water base paint gives you more open time (takes longer for the paint to dry). This will not get rid of brush marks, but if used correctly will help make them less noticeable. You could also use an oil base paint as if brushed carefully will leave less noticeable brush lines, but oil presents a number of issues (smell, time to fully dry, off-gassing, having to clean with paint thinner, etc.). As for priming, you only need to prime bare wood, caulk (caulk can cause your finish coat to sheen sometimes, so it's best to prime it), and putty/spackle spots. If the trim is painted, you do not need to prime painted areas, but you should do a quick, light sand to give the new coat of paint something to "bite" into.

@@DaveMartin thank you for an extremely thorough, clear and careful response!!

Rt L My pleasure, good luck!

The real downfall to a flat finish in the window recess is that it will be harder to clean, especially the bottom "sill". My recommendation would be to use at least an eggshell finish. Also, in my experience, clients who like this look do it because it brings more light in, especially if you are using a darker color on the wall. A shinier sheen will reflect light more, so it enhances this affect.

@@DaveMartin Awesome. Thanks so much for the quick and thorough reply.

I would stick with the Purdy 2.5" XL Dale sash brush. The type of brush will not matter if it's really warm. Paints these days are Low VOC and have a tendency to dry pretty fast. My recommendation is to do the painting early morning or late in the evening when the temperature is about 50 degrees. If you paint when the temperature is too high, the paint will dry on you and cause the paint to drag causing brush marks. If it's cooler it will allow for more open time and the paint will be easier to apply. If you are really worried about it, you could add a paint extender which will allow the paint to dry a bit slower. But it will not help you if the temp is too warm. I would also not paint in direct sunlight, even if it is cooler. Let me know if that helps.

@@DaveMartin is that a soft bristle or medium ? You got a link for buying this brush

@@rickferr1546 medium www.amazon.com/Purdy-144080325-Angular-Paint-Brush/dp/B00002N8YZ/ref=sr_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=purdy+2.5%22+xl+dale&qid=1620180424&s=hi&sr=1-1

So first it does not matter that it's labeled a "trim/door" paint, a satin sheen will be fine. If you watch my videos, you know that I try to purchase the best paint as I believe there are so many advantageous to using a better paint line, it's worth the extra cost. However, I know that price is an issue, especially these days, so here are couple things to keep in mind: purchase a 100% acrylic paint, don't purchase a vinyl or vinyl/acrylic blend. Purchase a paint that has a higher amount of solids, around 35-45%, you"ll get better coverage. You'll most likely have to do research to figure these out. As for specific paints, that's hard as I basically only use the best of the Benjamin Moore line of paints. So, because I like BM, I would recommend their contractor or economical lines (Ben, UltraSpec), but these are still kind of expensive. If you are in the Pacific Northwest, Miller paint has their Premium Interior line, which I like, at a very reasonable price. I like Sherwin Williams Super Paint. I'm not sure how much it costs, but it's not as expensive as the Emerald or, say, Cashmere lines. I have not used the Behr lines or the Valspar lines for years. One way to test the paint is to purchase a quart of the exact line, color and sheen you are thinking about using and try it out. My biggest concern with inexpensive paints is coverage; if it's taking 3 coats, you're now wasting your time and you are going to spend more for more paint. Testing is an option. Anyway, let me know if that helps of if you have any other questions. Thanks!

@@DaveMartin Amazing. Thanks so much for the thorough response. Good tips on the % solids and 100% acrylic paint. Very true on the coverage...if it takes 3 coats, then you didn't save anything. Thanks for the brand names. Greatly appreciated! EDIT: I did some reading on Data Sheets. The Ben has volume solids of 40% and weights 10.8 lbs/gal. The Ultra Spec 500 Satin has a Volume Solids of 39% and weights 11.2 lbs/gal. Valspar(vinyl) / PPG Speedhide (acrylic) volume solids is 32% and 10.4 lbs/gal. Then you have Behr Premium Plus with 39% volume solids (10.7 lb/gal) and 100% acrylic has good reviews.

No, never.

In this video I was using Benjamin Moore's Pearl finish, it's more of a satin finish. I personally prefer a satin finish.

I’ve never had that issue, but if you were worried about it, you could use a microfiber tack cloth, or just vacuum the said area.

@@DaveMartin I had that issue, the oil from the cloth leaked right into my paint.

I use a 2.5" Purdy XL Dale. It is an angled sash brush, great for windows.

I probably should have said make sure you apply the trim paint on the wall and smooth it out. If you slop it on the wall and leave a thick brush edge, yes, that would show. If you slop it on and smooth it out, no, you will not notice it.

@@DaveMartin I understand thank you.

I would run my had across the new baseboard (carefully, in case of slivers); if it feels rough, even slightly rough, you should sand it. If it feels really smooth, you are good to paint. If it is rough, I would sand it with 180 or 220 grit sandpaper...it should not take very much effort to sand it smooth.

@@DaveMartin Sounds good. Thanks you sir!