awesome

That is exactly what I will use it in….80’s coffee colored stained furniture!

My thoughts exactly 😂

@@sammoore5136 Looking for Chris Martin? Or Zinsser 123? 😝

Cheers Guy, appreciate the comment

Massively agree with your comments here - sanding gives a superior finish

Hello. 20 years in the trade. You must be the expert here. 👍 Could you please give me your best advice on choosing the most durable paint system for my wooden framed windows? I've used 80 grit sandpaper and I spent hours & days > hand sanding x 4 wooden sash window + 3 doors. I sanded off many layers of old yellowed gloss leaving behind a thin layer of gloss which I can now see the wood grain through. I 'm now facing trust issues with water based paints for my interior as I never used them before. Solvent-oil paints are phasing out fast. I want to be 100% sure I am choosing the right paint system, so I don't have to re-do all my efforts. How would I go about this ? Do I need to prime first over the old thin layer of gloss ? using Bulls eye 123 or BIN then a top coat ? Please tell me the most trustworthy & durable paint system ( paint brands) to use with the longest lasting effect ? if this is possible ? Regards Micheal 👍

Don't know why they call it a stain killer as it is beyond hopeless in that context..bin is much better

Dave what is bin??

@sharijudd4576 It is a product by Zinnser. Pretty much a tinted shellac. So think of a primer that rather than using an oil or latex base, uses shellac. Works for well for certain situations. Easy to clean the brush with 50/50 water and ammonia.

can you use a water based satin finish paint on top of the BIN product?

@@richarddoheny2706 Why not? The BIN product he is talking about is also water-based. But you can also apply it over the oil-based BIN, or the BIN shellac primers. My entire home is satin Decorator's White latex over all three primers. Latex BIN on varnish, PVA'd drywall, or previous latex paint; oil based over "pitchy" new wood or some stains; shellac base over nasty stains, or when I need superior sanding or ultimate adherence.

100% 123 will chip off. Bins is a shellac based primer. The one to use. 👍🏻

Yes, ive used 123 on banister with sanding and it chipped off with slightest knock.

Got to use bin. 123 is water base. It will not stick like Bin. Don’t waste your time.

123 will peel off varnish.

Any knots that haven't been treated will bleed through water based paint. That's why bin is the primer too use, shellac primer will seal the knots in the wood.

Cool man

😄👍

Spitting image! It's crazy, he must get that a lot. I'd use it to get free drinks mate! Lol cheers!

I just came to say this, he should give us a song too. I vote for Yellow! 😂

That's the problem isn't it. It's just not very durable.

What are the States?

Hey! I am wondering, did the end result leave a nice all white finish? I want to use this all.over my room and I want to know if Ill need to purchase white paint to put on it

Thank you!!

It's important to use additional coats; brush strokes will show through. The overall finish is smooth and even. I needed to thin out the paint in order to get rid of brush marks. I used wall paint instead of cabinet paint. Wall paint is made to dry quickly. Therefore the brushstrokes had no time to flow out. I also used a foam roller for the areas that were big. I use the brush for smaller portions.

yes these paints do mess your brushes up bristle are never as soft agin just using soap and water even wire brushing your brushes all water paint clogs up your brush including emulsion's. you need to wash it every 1 hour or so.

I did a staircase which was stained with mahogany and then varnished over..used good old-fashioned oil based primer, UC and topcoat...still looks really good 10 years later..

That is good to hear. I have some Junk Monkey Paint. Eight different colors from them. And I would like to put an interesting color on these poor little sad varnished doors. One of my cats decided he wanted to strip off parts of the cheap door off on the bottom. I have barbecued the cat. But the door will hang in there. Ha ha. Sorry. I didn't really barbecue Billy Bob. Being a bobtail cat. There's not enough meat on him that it would make it worth my while.

Jajajaja. As a punishment he should play with my hyperactive playful dog for a couple hours...

@@davidmorris6278 they turned great. Give them a couple coats of primer. I didn’t wax because I didn’t want to repeat process in 6 months. Instead I used General Finishes Flat Out Flat Topcoat. I gave it 3 very thin coats and no yellowing.

I have to paint a large dining room table as well. Can you please tell me exactly what product you used? Thank you so much!

Fantastic 👍👍

@@JBTV Hi Justin, Bought this in ToolStation. However I have just looked at the instructions and it states 'NR' for varnish and stains? weird when the tin states Stainkiller? Before I start on the banister like in the video should I buy the smellier BIN red tin or the just use this Bulls Eye 123? Please advise. Thanks.

@@therookiegbuk7011 I've had no issues with it on the Varnished surface. What you could do is lightly key the Varnished surface, this will help it to adhere even better. Good luck

It will never stay on , it will chip so easy 100%

@jlbradders Yep, I think so too 🤣

Did u use oil based primer or water based?

First time home owner here. Our drywall contractor just recommended this product to use before we paint our living room. I've read people saying it's really thick and you might need to thin it. What's your experience? And how would we thin it? Cut it with some water?

@@sonichallbartender it would be very expensive to paint all your walls with this. I would just use a drywall primer

Ever spray painted over it? Any probs?

Is the best option. 123 that hes using is more likely to chip/scratch off.

How is it holding up? Any peeling?

All good, zero peeling! Mother in law had decoraters in doing hers at the same time. Hers are cracked and peeling already. Good gear.

@@Napoleon-Blownapart Thanks!

​@@Napoleon-Blownapart Hi I've sanded down old yellowing gloss wooden framed windows x 4 . I have trust issues buying the right paint. I want to make sure I us ethe most durable. How is still holding up any flaking ?

Yeah i would too. I used it on varnish and it flakes of VERY easily.

Thanks man 👍

100 percent right m8 im a pro decorator and would never use the water based it is garbage always use the oil bases or shellac based bins primer this guy is clueless

A lot of hype from Zinsser, ill tell you, sand ANYTHING down you want to coat FIRST, then apply an OIL based UNDERCOAT, let it dry for a day then you can paint it with ANYTHING oil or water based, Zinsser 123 is useless for stopping staining dont be fooled by the hype, OIL based will stop staining, water based adhesion is also rubbish, scrape it off with your finger nail. 40yrs decorating in the UK, water based stuff is often junk hyped up by the green brigade except emulsion for walls, its only decent use is on a good surface INDOORS as an undercoat finsihed with an oil based top coat certainly for glosswork. Woe betide future decorators when they have to get a good finish on years and years of built up water based gloss paint which goes like jelly all sticky and crappy, its JUNK right up there with non drip gloss despite manufacturers claims.Of course im of the generation that KNEW what a good finish was, flat as glass not a speck of dust and not the new "look how white" it is brigade, its like modern car paint awful orange peel,dumbing down of "finish"

@@pmrose18 I'd use oil based more however I can't stand the smell of it. I don't like how the whites go yellow after a couple of years either.

you can use zinsser 123 plus thats good on varnish woodstain

@@clintmannion5598 Hello. pro decorator You must be the expert here. 👍 Could you please give me your best advice on choosing the most durable paint system for my wooden framed windows? I've used 80 grit sandpaper and I spent hours & days > hand sanding x 4 wooden sash window + 3 doors. I sanded off many layers of old yellowed gloss leaving behind a thin layer of gloss which I can now see the wood grain through. I 'm now facing trust issues with water based paints for my interior as I never used them before. Solvent-oil paints are phasing out fast. I want to be 100% sure I am choosing the right paint system, so I don't have to re-do all my efforts. How would I go about this ? Do I need to prime first over the old thin layer of gloss ? using BIN then a top coat ? will water based top coat stick to BIN ? Please tell me the most trustworthy & durable paint system ( paint brands) to use with the longest lasting effect ? if this is possible ? Regards Micheal 👍

If it makes you feel any better, one of my kitty cats decided he wanted to try to strip pieces of the veneer at the bottom of one of those cheap doors we have in our houses. I did not kill him. He is a bobtail cat and na,ed Billie Bob, of course. So there's not enough meat on his bones to make it worth my while for even a BBQ. . But I'm going to use this product on the door. I can sand out a little bit to feather it. And I'm not that picky but I would like it not to look like crap I heard about this particular Bullseye 123 product and I think it is going to be fantastic.

@@gailremp8389 I ended up using a combination of 1-2-3 and spot priming with BIN to get the job done. 2-3 thin coats of 1-2-3 got a good base, but there were some tannin bleed spots that the BIN primer was much better at covering. End result was pretty good.

@@spronkey much thanks... I will let Billy Bob live for yet another day. Peace.

Billy 2 Smooth no. Housless jim

You should've used Zinsser Allcoat exterior stain or gloss, from start to finish, and it's water based. The first coat primes and seals, the second coat completes the sealing process, personally I would apply a third coat.

Thanks. But between bin and 123, which is best for satin wall.

Does it chip easy?

@@rabbieg09 It will actually peel in certain circumstances as its latex based. Unlike the alkyd based Cover Stain, which will cure over time and therefore become brittle with age.

I had a similar problem. Did your problem resolve itself?

@@geoffsmith673 unfortunately not. Swapped the 123 for coverstain and its been great. Sticks like glue

@@charliemccollum Thanks. For various reasons, I have 123 on my multifinish walls underneath two coats of emulsion. I live in fear that if the emulsion gets knocked that this will bring the primer off. I'd done such a good job on the walls too. I sanded 123 off the main, problem wall/culprit. And, of course, 123 doesn't sand well either. Still deciding whether to put B.I.N. on this area or fill and mist coat all over again. Nightmare knowing I have walls that look great but wondering if they'll hold.

@@geoffsmith673 hope it goes ok. 👍 i was painting stained wood. 123 just would not adhere. Bin coverstain really covered well and soaked right into the wood.. very good stuff. I am just a DIYer so not sure whats best for you.

@@charliemccollum It is what it is now! I am not convinced about putting B.I.N or coverstain over large areas of wall. We'll see. Thanks for the reply.

Lucas Divers just from what I know and looking at the comments, same here on song bin

Using

B-I-N has better adhesion to glossy surfaces and will block the tannin from bleeding through.

123 is not recommended for varnished surfaces, this is advice from the manufacturer and is even on the label! use BIN

@@David-kp4en There's literally a picture on the front label of someone using 123 on finished oak cabinets. It's insane they put that there.

BIN is all you need. 123 is not as durable

You'll need to sand it before applying a top coat

For me as well. I tried it in a few small test areas and it scratches right off so for me sanding is a must on my old trim.

Thank you. I would avoid painting on top of bees wax. If you do, you would have to clean with spirit, then apply a zinsser bin type product, or use a solvent based primer.

Thanks Justin 🙏🏻

zinsser 123 plus would have worked thats good on that

@@jackwardley3626 it was it was zinsser 123 and this is what happened the bin primer from zinsser is the best I talk from experience and a lot of hard work

@@cathyknapp9360 the 123 plus is different its in a lighter blue tin

Save your money get the cheapest OIL base d paint you can find as primer or u/caot ( not gloss) as a base coat.

Glad you enjoyed it

Download the data sheet for 123. If I remember it says to lightly sand if not use B.I.N.

123 will never last on that , that's certain

Bin is much better for sticking to the varnish than 123. If you do a scratch test 123 will come off much easier than bin. 123 is easier to use but doesn't always work.

It says on the can on any surface, including wood and metal

Rustoleum's customer support says that Bin and 123 are both recommended for covering glossy paints and clear finishes. Both are their "best recommendations".

@@alymetz2020 Zinsser pocket book says otherwise. not to be used on varnish. never used Bulls eye for varnish.