You guys should really do an official feat ! ;)

I seent it. Not to sure about his color choice either. But oh well, I still enjoyed it.

@@dantimmerman6693 wasn't sure but at least it is something different from the usual

I love the way you and Martin talk about each other. This hobby has such a great sense of community it makes it really enjoyable to keep up with what people are doing, especially when I can't work on my own projects as often as I would like.

Always!

Well... I got highschool on fridays, so half the day is gone

Thank you!

Thank you for being on the front lines of this. Healthcare workers are really not as appreciated as they should be. You have my thanks...and please stay safe!

@@Panzermeister36 Thank you. Still alive and not contaminated. God bless all of us !

Glad you enjoyed it Stevie! I will try to add those in from now on to keep everything clear :) Oh, and I ordered some of those new 3D printed clamps you showed me!

@@Panzermeister36 cool. Those clamps are amazing

Thank you!

Thank you Shane!

Glad I could help!

Thank you Scott! :)

Thank you! I will continue to show those details on screen from now on :)

Thank you! I agree :)

Hey Michael :) yes StuG and smaller Panzer are always coolest, but I have to build Tigers to also appease Adam :D

Hamilkar Barkas At what stage do you apply the gloss varnish please? I am starting with weathering and so any tips will be appreciated.

I have stepped back from using glossy varnishes a while ago, at best i use it only in the spots where i want to apply a decal, not over the entire model.

Hamilkar Barkas Thanks for the quick reply, much appreciated.

@@theenigmaticgamer first off I'm not that experienced in weathering, but I would say to apply your paint job, add decals, then do a coat of satin or gloss varnish. Then weather, then put some matte varnish

Thank you, and have fun :)

Thank you! And stay safe and healthy too :)

Thank you very much for the comment. Greetings from Canada 😊

Thank you :) It wouldn't have been visible through if I had picked that colour...so I had to pick something a little more pale so it would stand out. With oils and stuff it's toned down more anyways.

@@Panzermeister36 I thought the colour of your zimmerit was perfect. In the closeups at the end, you can see the tonal differences easily.

Yes, red oxide was applied before zimmerit. It's a metal primer so I'm not even sure it would adhere well to zimmerit.

Hello! I will be doing a video looking at that sometime. I'll do bent fenders, shell impacts, and so on.

I look forward to it. Thanks.

Not exactly. Pre-war you have the Buntfarbenanstrich three-colour camouflage scheme, consisting of RAL N.17 Erdgelb, RAL N.18 Braun, and RAL N.28 Grün. This looks a lot like late-war three colour camouflage. From 1937 to June 1940, tanks were painted a base of RAL N.46 Grau with 1/3rd of the vehicle covered by RAL N.45 Dunkelbraun. Note that this includes and battles of France and Poland. It's tricky to see this camouflage in photos since brown and grey appear the same in black and white photos, but there are tons of original colour photos from this period too. From June 1940 to February 9th 1943, RAL7021 Dunkelgrau was the standard base colour for armored vehicles. In 1941 the first tropentarn (tropical) camouflage pattern was introduced for vehicles serving in North Africa and Greece. It is a base of RAL8000 Gelbraun with camouflage of RAL7008 Graugrün. In 1942 the second tropentarn pattern was introduced which is a base of RAL8020 Braun with RAL7027 Grau. By this time these tropical camouflage schemes were also approved to use in Russia. You can see vehicles in the winter 1942-43 battle of Kharkov painted in tropical camouflage operating in the snow, which is very unique. Now in early February 1943, RAL7028 Dunkelgelb was the new standard base colour. Units were supplied with RAL8017 Rotbraun and RAL6003 Olivgrün to apply their own camouflage patterns over the yellow base. In August 1944, the order was changed so that vehicles were painted with Olivgrün and Rotbraun camouflage over the base yellow at the factory. This was done so that the vehicles would be camouflaged for rail transport. This order was maintained until war's end, though in early 1945 some factories started using Olivgrün as the base over which was applied the yellow and red-brown.

I'm talking primer colours not. finishes.

Thanks for answering the comments.

I use plenty of small stencils on modern armour and they don't fall off. Besides, micro sol is solvent. It should melt down the decal film into the surface. You also definitely do not need gloss for larger decals....just a smooth surface which you can get through smooth paint application and sanding. Decal size is irrelevant. Surface finish is all that matters.

You're using Mig AMMO "One Shot" primer? They also make a standard Mig primer which is garbage. Now, this One Shot primer is rebranded Badger Stynylrez primer. I know Badger had to change the formula during COVID due to material shortages. It's possible you have one of these new mixes, under the Mig AMMO brand. I have not tried the new mix but people are not impressed. Apparently Badger is now back to their original mix. Sorry I can't give you a definite answer here, but my experience with this primer (original formula) is very good so I suspect you have the bad COVID-era mixture.

@@Panzermeister36 hey thx for the reply. It is Mig "one shot", must be a bad batch like you said, my luck haha. Its all just part of the modelling experience, adapt and overcome.

Thank you for the info. I did really like AMWorks' tool clamp sets and PE...it's a shame they're out of production.

@@Panzermeister36 Their tool sets can also be found on the Aliexpress site

Not even....too much work for me :) thank you Bruce!

Hmm, I usually wait no more than 10 minutes before I chip. But this time I had to apply the brown camouflage as well after the yellow, so it was probably more like an hour. It still chipped pretty easily though. Just don't wait super long for the paint to set...chip pretty much ASAP after it's dry to the touch.

Badger 105 Patriot

Maybe I will do a Panzer IV soon. But I don't have an H in my stash...only a Vorpanzer Ausf.D I think.

You could spray on hairspray from a can instead of airbrushing on chipping fluid (yes it works the same), but your brush painting you'll have to keep your top paint layers thin for the chipping to work well. But it might be possible.

I find it is much faster as you're just spraying an extra coat of paint (15 minutes) and the chipping is super fast. No worries about thinning your chipping colour properly or applying it with enough wiped off the sponge...you just use a damp brush and the chips naturally form when youre doing HS chipping. The sponge chipping takes much longer in my experience as you have to be conscious and careful about so many more factors. But still, sponge chipping itself is so much faster than painting each chip with a tiny paintbrush.

I generally have used hairspray because in the past I found it produced finer chips. However I seem to be getting pretty fine stuff with chipping fluid now. Still I prefer not having to clean my airbrush when I just spray on the hairspray from a can.

They are attached using some very fine brass wire. You'll be able to see that more clearly once I do the detail painting in an upcoming video :)

I put them on a shelf :)

Thank you! I actually did do some chipping on the wheels in some areas, but I didn't film that part, sorry. You'll be able to see it clearly in 2 weeks when I put up the detail painting video on this Tiger, since I paint the steel edges of the wheels there. Also, the chipping will mostly be hidden by the mud and dust I apply to the wheels eventually. That's also why I never apply the pinwash to the wheels either...it's pointless since it gets hidden by mud and dust passes.

@@Panzermeister36 OK cool thanks; will lookout for it in a couple of weeks. Thanks.

Honestly hairspray works better, but I didn't have any at the time due to the covid lockdown. So I used chipping fluid in this video.

Because German camouflage patterns were sprayed on at repair facilities when the units received the tanks from the factory. Brush applied camouflage is not as common as people think on German tanks. Also, there are tons of photos of the unit I am modelling and their camouflage was clearly sprayed on.

Hello! I do have a Panther which will be an upcoming build project :) I was using a 0.2 needle at about 10 psi for the camo stripes.

@@Panzermeister36 thanks for the info.

Thank you Jan! Yes, I always get so many questions about varnishes...hopefully I can make it clear with my Tiger series :)

Dragon 6383 I believe.

@@Panzermeister36 Nice! Looking great! Keep the videos coming! Stay Safe!

No more than 10 minutes

It would depend on the unit and time period. A Tiger 1 would most likely have a base colour of yellow, and then green and/or brown camouflage applied over that.

No, I have not found that out. It's water soluble so it also it should be very easy to clean.

@@Panzermeister36 Oh fluff, maybe it's the tamiya thinners and airbrush cleaners I've been using to clean it up then. I need to experiment on scrap bits of plastic I guess. Thanks for responding.

I don't wait at all. The faster you start chipping, the easier and more in-scale the chips are. I basically just go clean my airbrush and come back and start chipping. 10 minutes maybe.

@@Panzermeister36 Very thank you

If that happens you're spraying at too high of a pressure and the paint is drying before is hits the surface. I don't have that issue at the pressures I spray at; the finish is matte but still smooth. I just did the sanding to get an even more smooth surface for the decal since gloss varnishes are a waste of time and money.

Yes. I usually use HS as I find it easier to use. I just didn't have any on hand for this video.

@@Panzermeister36 ok thanks

The video I will be uploading Friday covers tool painting. I paint them on the tank, but you can paint them off the model and glue them after.

@@Panzermeister36 Thank you very much, I appreciate the help!

At high pressure, very thinned paint will dry in the air before hitting the model or it will not spray nicely and run all over the place.

@@Panzermeister36 Thanks for the info. That now explains the reason for my problems. Everyday is a school day :)

You want to chip it before too long. I usually wait 10 minutes...no more than an hour.

@@Panzermeister36 thanks!! Love your work. Keep it up.

Dragon 6383 I believe

Hmm, I suppose you're correct :)

@@Panzermeister36 yea... I dont know

Oh, I would have used the muzzle brake that came with the barrel. However, this "Late" Tiger I am modelling had an "Early" muzzle brake which I did not realize when I bought the metal barrel....I just bought a "Late" barrel and brake set since I figured it was meant for all "Late" Tigers.

No, this Tiger is later than the ones if Africa. A good way to tell is that Zimmerit was only introduced after the Germans were defeated in Africa, so no tanks there ever had Zimmerit. This is an Eastern Front unit that fought around Ukraine I believe.

Panzermeister36 ah thanks for the awnser very helpfull

That's just the molded on Dragon zimm! Comes in the kit :)

506 S.Pz.Abt I believe. White numbers would be first company of that unit.

Hmm, what set up do you have?

@@Panzermeister36 Ventus detail air

If you don't have a psi gauge on your air source you can buy one at a local hardware store or canadian tire for $20. Attach it with proper connectors to your hose. They may not be included.

@@JBonzalot18 thanks

Team hairspray all the way. It gives finer chips and has a longer working period.

@@Panzermeister36 another quick question - what color primer was used on the early Tigers that were painted Panzer grey?

Thanks for the responses by the way, I love the details and mixes you give in your videos, very helpful

They would be red primer under the grey. Germans always used red primer except for 1945 when some heavy armour plates were given a grey phosphate primer instead.

What's wrong with red oxide

@@Panzermeister36 What do you call the black you started with??? not primer maybe.

That's actual model primer. Then I painted with red oxide for the hairspray chipping. It would be ideal to have a model primer that is already the right red colour but there aren't any options where I live.

I haven't painted the details yet. I'm going to look at that after I apply a wash. Detail painting will involve the tools, wheels, machine guns, rear light, periscopes, etc.