The most clear concise tutorials ever !!!

Thanks for sharing your process. As a hobbyist I’ve followed your instructions using the blocks you sell and have achieved great results.

Great job...nobody knows the stuff that happens before you can paint ...spraying is the bonus at the end

You’re very talented with older cars and how you can level the ocean on the old panels making them straight again beautiful work you do nice job

Linear videos are some of the greatest how to body work/paint tutitorials on utube And, the blocks give unbelievable results. Get the blocks guys, you won't be sorry. Maybe Colton can do a video on sanding filler when going from a convex surface into a concave surface? Much like on the Chevelle body line. Thanks for posting. Great info!

Nice work! Thanks for all the details, I will have to do this on my 70 this summer!

Great video - I don't let that filler set up completely as it takes too long to sand concrete. Once it start to kick, block it very lightly to flat

Do you block panel-to-panel with the glass and other weight out of the doors? When you put the glass back in the door, does it change how the door shuts and lines up with panel-to-panel?

Do you do bodywork with the body OFF the frame on the rotisserie, or is it better to do all bodywork with the body on the frame? I see your videos where you paint the car on the rotisserie, any issues with performing any work on the body on the rotisserie?

I been useing protec para glaze epoxy primer which is a Ppg product seems work well on wet on wet or dry sanding or blocking with filler then I been using autothane HS primer filler over the repairs which is also a Ppg product. I really like like videos and the one about filler on bare metal is a big no no

I’ve recently just used CRE product I liked it a lot good build and sands decent. I am wondering it being a industrial epoxy and gets rock hard it will be flakey once dried. I’m debating on using CRE for the whole product or SPI. Have you had the chance to spray and test the SPI epoxy ? Very curious to the shrinkage and strength of SPI product.

Your Bondo is gonna crack or bubble. You cannot put Bondo over guide coat. Guide coat is slippery and not adhesive.

Don't for get the clean down before filler have to remove the dust from the scratches or you don't get the adhesion Just like when you prep for paint.

Not sure if you guys are still interested in sponsoring my KZfaq channel with these as I'd love to try them out on my build soon. Cheers Wayne

great video ... what do you prefer with the 3M select filler over the 3M platinum plus ? ive been using the platinum plus for a while and like it ... does 1 give you a benefit over the other... thanks for the video... Big hello from Australia

Couldn't you use a high build primer?

Do you drill the hinges with reference holes so the doors go back in the same spot? What do you do to mark the fenders?

I believe you guys are here in Wisconsin but I’m not sure if your doing painting here I would like my chevelle painted I’ve seen detail and I’m convinced I’ll use the email you guys provided or keep bugging but thanks for sharing with us your work and the ingenious product

Great show how.. but man.. thats alot of mud , cars basically bondo machine.

Great tips thanks 😊

Looks great

Why didn’t you go strait vp2050 ? Why 50lp instead

If both the Gray LP and Black CRE 921 are both Epoxies why are using the CRE on top of the LP......expense and much of the CRE will be sanded off ???

Way too much Bondo.