Ordered 2 and I’ll have my build at slam this year

You are welcome!

Forgive my inquiry, but why would you make a hard cutoff for frequency handoff? Doing so leaves fidelity on the chopping block. Per your example (speaker frequency range considered), something more akin to acoustic nirvana would be represented as: 1Hz - 75hz (Subwoofers) 45hz - 650hz (Midbass) 400hz - 13khz (Midrange) 4khz & up (Tweeters) Sounds preform best when there's rolling transition from one to the other, much like when the baton is passed in Olympic Track races and the "receiver" has a running start... Your listing suggests upon getting the baton, the 2nd runner would be starting from a dead halt, which is hardly optimal. Additionally, this allows each speaker to fully perform how it's intended per its application. No offense meant, just trying to assist and explain.

@@RAW_Reality There is a rolling transition. For example, if my sub goes up to 50, and my midbass starts at 50 there is a very low Q so they blend together smoothly. If the Q was high, then it would be more sharp and less desired. Thank you for your awesome input though.

@@Bassotronics I guess my point is that there isn't a "blend", just a swap, like oil to water, whereas a blend would be more like one puzzle piece feeding into another. You're right about the point of not wanting a high Q, but that's typically expressed as the separation between frequencies not played, not as much so for overlapping ones. But I suppose I'm going by theory, as I've not heard/EQ'd a system that's processed and tuned as yours is.

@@RAW_Reality I’m not understanding the “oil and water” concept you are referring to when the sounds are blending like Red to Orange in a rainbow. I would understand if I’m trying to blend red and orange to make green which is not possible.

@@Bassotronics The "oil and water" analogy was meant to state that there's an actual separation between red and orange, like as if you're drawing with crayons. A real prismatic rainbow doesn't have "hard" separations between colors, instead having a gradual transition from one to the other. At the end of the day, as long as you're happy with it, that's all that really matters here. I was just trying to add in some perspective for those who might be curious about the subject from your original post. ✌🏻

The basic 100 dollar pioneer radios have all the features of this dsp i believe

😂

+25 db by changing phase 😂 sounds (literally) like a massive upgrade, for free

100% same, I'm also trying to acquire a dsp currently... & that's soo weird huh... Idk if you thought same thing I did or whatnot(thought to myself hmmm that's strange, I watch all their videos and never seen anything DSP related whatsoever, then all of a sudden I decide 2 days ago that I want one and told myself that "I really, really do need it." And so that I should go and learn a little about them & how wiring goes... Then everyone started posting dsp content like wth 🤔

I use a audio pipe dsp works great

I just installed a Stetsom in the last couple days. Love it.

@@smetanavichlamanov8103 Becraft Aintloud posted a vid of him installing his PRV DSP 2 months ago. He has a killer system. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/rbKWgdRjsdXIZo0.html

@nate0 It does what I need.

Hello you seem very knowledgeable on this matter I have the same DSP and I have issues with setting the filters because there are so many. Can you help me out with this?

@@zerolash16Nuh uhhhh

​@@lowlowsandclothes9923 real😂

he didn't really show anything that a DSP can do, that a system without a DSP can't do. splitting can be done with a Y-cable (even tho DSP is a cleaner solution). crossovers for each channel can be done on most, if not all amps. turning off sound on channels doesn't even require a tool a DSP in a sound quality setup should be used to tune the sound in different frequencies, and if it's a good DSP, it should be possible to tune it to perfection, making the sound quality far better than it is without a DSP. proper DSP tuning requires a mic, otherwise it's pure guessing based on preferences and how you hear the sound, while the mic can measure each frequency with accurate data

😊

@nate0 I had a dm608 before this one and the helix is quite a bit better IMO. Nice warm sound and very deep bass. The bass augmentation is killer too. I hesitate to mention it anymore since some douche tried to say I was bragging because it cost almost a grand for the mini and it’s add ons. The remote is where they get ya @ $300. But it’s badass and the mini itself is the same price as the 608 approx.

@nate0 I hate my dqdx, it keeps adding ground noise. Changed ground 2 times, all ofc, wires no rcas near power, just don’t get why the dqdx is that way seen several complaints due to this

@nate0 then why a Rockford 3sixty.2 not have the noise but as soon as I hook up the dqdx it has it

I have the helix DSP.3 and it's nothing short of amazing...I also upgraded the the USB port audio so I can play sample rates up to 192khz

@nate0 I got stinger x3 rca cables so deff not From them, then have a kenwood excleon dmx706s head unit so don’t think it that, it didn’t start till dqdx was introduced, so I’m going to call audiocontrol tomorrow to see what they say. I’m about to throw it in the road ik that much, I agree on the noise part also. I’m thinking alternator may be on last leg also, I’ve ran it hard. Orion hcca 3000.1dsplx, ct sounds at125.4, secondary agm in the rear along with under hood. Plus it only A 90 amp Honda Fit alternator lol. That be taken care of along with lithium soon

That very much depends on the headunit

I really appreciate you sticking around this long man!

I have sub's on a factory deck and door speakers on a LC2.......Will a DSP help me out at all?

💯💯

PPI made damn good products

To oversimplify it... For each output, set your HPF and LPF surrounding the frequencies you want that driver (speaker) to have outputted to it. For example: If I wanted my door speakers to play everything above 70hz, I'd set the HPF at 80hz and the slope at -12, so the audible output of that slope would begin in the 70s, and not setting a LPF so it plays everything above that. For your equalizer, imagine a 🐫's back, only not as peaky. The middle "valley" being around 1000hz (1k). From there, tune individually to your ear's pleasure, but that's a good basis of representation on how music should be heard.

💯💯

🔥🔥🔥🔥

Glad to hear it!

It's called an expert px2 it has a 28 band eq and is totally tunable from an app on your phone

Put it in your glove compartment

PRV 2.8 is the exact same thing with 2 additional channels. Eventually you'll want something with more bands of parametric EQ. These only have 1 input and then 1 output per channel. More expensive dsp's have 31 bands per channel

@@Titans2138 Wow thank you so much!!!

Yes you just run the dsp to your bass knob then out to your amp. Just installed mine that way and works perfect

You turn them off, the DSP will only send the frequencies you choose to the amps. No other crossovers needed.

It comes out of head unit into the dsp then the dsp he set it to 100 hz so nothing under 100 hz would go to the mids ...

Yeah I didn’t even notice I said it until someone commented 😂

😆😆 messily I gotta use that term!!!

Did you end up fixing it? For me the hissing is always there, but when I add my sub output the hissing gets louder

@@briantoolive Turn down the DSP output gain to 10 or 11. Thats the only way I can get rid of it.

Yes, every output is individual, output 1 has it’s own Equalizer, Crossover, Delay, Gain, and Limiters. Same for Output 2,3,4 and so on.

Also there is “Routing” being that you can make each output be fed from either the left input or the right input or mixed L&R, these are actually very good and basic DSP’s that are very popular in the “Voceteo” community 👍🏼 Stetsom, Experts, PRV, DS18, And Taramps make these types of DSP, which are more handy for the diy being that you don’t need a laptop to program them. Fyi “Experts PX2 DSP” is also Bluetooth compatible, and allows you to make any and every adjustment via bluetooth and a App. Very handy. Hope this helps. 👍🏼