Karl - I've never tried to make thumbnail shrinking dies, but several people told me that they were very difficult to make work properly. I am so impressed that you achieved such success with only your second set of dies! I'm sure your trip to Australia will be a huge success. I've traveled there quite a bit, and there are so many people there with a 'can-do' attitude, that love the traditional American style of cars!

Awesome job on the power hammer thanks for the inspiration Karl.

Insane how scrap metal tools work. I'm the same way as far as making tools for my shop. If I make the tools I understand them more. Nice job Karl

I see a lot of energy that flowing from you during this project. Please continue do crazy things! Thank you so much!

Man this turned out killer. Thanks so much for sharing the whole process, warts and all.

Ingenuity unleashed. Not just thinking outside the box, but miles outside. Then problem solving on another level. Great results well done.

Great job as usual. TGW, torch grind and weld! Plus, a whole bunch of fabrication skills and talent. Thank you

Hey Karl, love your videos. Very impressed that you “threw together” a pullmax-style hammer using materials on hand and weldment as without a lot of fancy machined bits. Super cool. I made a set of thumbnail die’s by tack welding the upper and lower blanks together then using a drill press to drill an angled hole at about 15 degrees to the parting line, dead center on the parting line. Drill deep enough to form the recess in the upper die and a full depth of the drill in the lower die. Then break the tack and slide a short piece of round bar into the trough/hole in the lower die to give you the “thumb”. A small weld on the back of the die will secure it. Then it’s mostly a matter of clearanceing the dies so the the only contact spot is a smile just in front of the base of the thumb. The trick of drilling the angled hole to spruce the recess in the upper die and the seat to locate the thumb is a big time saver, and you are guaranteed that the dies line up.

Great fun watching the fabrication process and I really like the size of the dies you made. It gets me to thinking I might have to try making an even smaller set for myself. Every once and awhile you work on something small and it would be great to have some tiny dies for shrinking.

Very KOOL Karl looks like it works very well

Brilient👌👍👍. Thanks again brother.!

Awesome to see how shrinking dies work.

Oh and we all love flames 🔥☄️💫💥

thanks for sharing.. Black Art Forge..

Thanks! We talked about this a couple times and you gave great advice on how to build one but showing us is even better!

Love the homage to Wray Schekin, "Metal is clay"!!!

Love it when a plan comes together,lol!( Merdoc, the A team) lol!

Thanks Karl! I will make it.

Hi, have a great and rewarding journey to Oz my friend. Hope you really enjoy the change of culture.

Great camera work

That's a die filer file you are using, I ran across a pile if them when I built my die filer, very handy indeed! You've got a fine touch with the disc sander, massaging that set of thumbnail dies, looks really good. If you really need more power, try going with a three phase motor, if you don't have three phase, you can use a stationary converter or a dynamic, if you need the full power. I've only got single phase but I'm running my milling machine and a couple others on three phase from a static converter. I always enjoy your videos, great content, great inspiration!

Nice job!!! I think hydraulic cylinder rod is 4140. Forklift forks are also 4140/4340. I make a lot of tools out of coil and leaf springs. (5160 usually). On numbered steel the first two numbers (51)60 Is the composition (nickel and chromium and steel Etc..) the second number 51(60) is carbon content. 60 is 0.6 percent carbon 4140 would be 0.4 percent carbon etc. For striking tools 0.4 is enough carbon. That is just a rule of thumb. There is allot to hardening and tempering steel and they are all different in their own ways. I tell people making knives and tools (blacksmithing) leads back to working on cars eventually.

Like the break on a z50 omg just love it. Keep up the outstanding work mate love all you work. 🍄☺️👍🏼👌🏼👌🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼

The machine! I mean - about $100 out of recyclables!!! No wonder there is so much under the bench - it's the tool making idea source. Watching your thought process unfold is very interesting to me. You could make one of these and buy your dies from HF (CP) and be soooo far ahead of the game!!! The build video and this die video were awe inspiring! Today I am going to get back to my little Kart project, grind off the crap and GET BACK TO IT!!! THANK YOU!

Always great videos my friend. Thank you for everything Sir. Hoping your trip south is 4 times better then your best ideas

Was tempted to build a shape o matic style hammer myself, think i go ahead and build a similar as this one instead 🤘 Thanks Karl for inspiration you rock 😁

Have a great time Aus . David from Australia

Fantastic job! Thank you for the inspiration

Amazing stuff going on here! Go Japhands, keep moving forward!

Ya did a great job on those dies karl. I'd be stoked too! congrats...

I can believe I forgot to subscribe! But I guess because I watch it so much. KZfaq just recommended it every day 😂. I'm going back to heavy equipment repair. So I can afford to join the channel too.

Looking forward to the die making video!

Love the Indian Larry Handle

LETS Go!!!!

That’s really very good. What a tool!

yay ... never done that before ! lol

This. Is. AWESOME!

Nice, I like it

Couldn't tale my eye off the wall clock .. good job - som'fun ...

That was nucking futs! Great work Karl :)

hope ya love it here mate!

Super cool machine !! Very usefull and cheap to make thanks man !!

This is such a great project!

Great Work. #STAYSAFE #PHILLYPHILLY 🇺🇸

You are very inspirational to all car mankind and god to your viewers THANK YOU MR JAP HANDS

I'm a Bennett. Great video thanks for sharing.

That’s amazazing! Its been rolling around in my head since part one of the build. Nice thing is, i can come back and watch it again when i want to build it.

You should use the hammer to make a trick belt cover for itself.

Well Karl, you've done it again. This week the silk purse from a sow's ear. Great demonstration on making thumbnail shrinking dies look easy. Next week, figuratively transmuting lead into gold. Metal shaping alchemy, and you Karl, are the resident wizard. You never cease to amaze. Thanks for another mystery made easy and we'll see you next time.

Very nice watching from Philippines

Great job, your power hammer work very well. I was make eckold type hammer and power is amazing, shrinking metal like crazy. And it's quiet to. 😊

Karl love the videos my friend. Awesome craftsmanship as always. Can't wait to see more videos soon my friend. Keep up the great craftsmanship and hard work my friend. Fab On. Weld On. Keep Making. God Bless.

That shift knob with the nitrous switch would be cool if it turned on a work light.

The sour face for all the late night you tubers was priceless man lol...awesome machineoo

boost over to NZ for a holiday while you're at it.

Awesome sauce!

Enjoy the Aus trip mate. Won't be able to come say thanks for the vids in person as I'm up in Brisbane, but, thanks for the videos and the knowledge you share. Very much appreciated!

Glad your coming to Melbourne Karl. I think Aus will blow you away , very much like Canada but without the snow. Unless you go up to our small mountains. Pack a jacket s it is getting cool now in Late April May but can be up to high 20's C (70' F) also the very next day. Car culture here in Aus is huge. So are Bikes.

Morning Karl, great second video, when you build machines as you are they're never really done...you just keep improving....I should have some updated photos of my 31 Ford Coupe project, kinda waiting for the weather to be a little more consistent so I can do some painting, I don't like to paint in a closed up garage... y'all be safe!! God Bless!!

awesome job

you're really getting in your groove with your skills reminds me of my younger days keep up the good work!

Awesome job Karl I hope to meet you at Motor X in Melbourne From Down Under 🦘 Cheers Andy

Great die work! Wish I could meet you in Australia, but I’ll be in Spain!

Heck yeah, I've just had a job postponed. So I should hopefully be able to make it down to Dunsborough this weekend for the meet and greet at Bennets customs, Keen as. I've been watching your channel for ages and have learned heaps of tips and tricks which have helped me out a lot with my Metro project.

instead of clutch linkage ,how about a morse style cable and foot pedal , or hand operated control ,like on a boat?

"Beauty!" @14:40 - Bob & Doug McKenzie "Metal is clay." -Wray Schelin I've long understood the concept of over-centered but I didn't know the name for that. I love learning new terms

Nice build. It seems you be need of a small anvil!

Welcome to Oz Karl, hope to catch up at Motorex.

I enjoy your videos, I learn alot from them, and you even give me refreshers as well. I haven't been much in the kustom world game for some time. But yrs ago I had my hands in the start of the 39 Lincoln zephyr sedan delivery fiberglass buck build for deco rides. Your definitely a person I hope to someday meet and hang out with. Keep up the awesome stuff. Cheers from Ohio.

A treadmill motor might be a good motor. Variable speed and powerfull. I have one for a grinder/polisher i built. Plan on using one in a belt machine too.

Awesome

And a protection shield for the clutch and fly wheel

Was little disappointed when you said no foot pedal but that hand lever makes up for it, mint 👌 Hopefully catch you in Sydney

Might as well come to new Zealand well your down here

If you open your fuse panel it should have a 10 awg. Wire for auxiliary trailor breaks. Should be able to tie into it. And run a ground directly to your frame. I'd wire a bat maintainer,off that to your winch batt. You could always wire it so you could plug in a portable solor panel. When trailor is parked for a while it'll keep the battery up👍👍. Thanks again brother .just sharing ideas I've had.

"Sweet!"

Karl, I'm an Aussie, up in Queensland so way too far to ride and meet you in West Australia, and I'm a great fan of you and Jordan from Bennet's Customs. Aiden from Bespoke is probably the best metal shaper I've seen since the guys that worked for Boyd!

💚🇬🇧🌱 awesome

Say hi to woody and Al from the skid factory !!

As for lubrication of the machine, around here they make an ag product (brand name) Sliplate. Basically graphite in paint form. They even have it in spay. Used to lubricate field discs, plows, metal on metal... Basically what your machine is doing. Since it's a dry lube you won't get the oil drip down and it'll last longer than the WD40.

I have a 3hp version of that same motor its even the same colour definitely worth looking for one should bolt straight on I was about to buy a Chinese reciprocating hammer but im seriously reconsidering now 😂

The switch could be used to pull in a contactor to start the motor.

its gusset time, that thing is flexing like crazy

Love the build, ( steam punk )

Inspired to build one for myself, I have a lathe and a mill. Your thoughts on using a 2 HP motor with a flywheel and brake.

Love the power hammer build and extras. Sorry not able to get to Australia to see you in person at Bennett customs due to finance.

Such a clever man give him a mechano set and he’ll probably build you a new car ! Nice work dude impressive 👍

🙏💥

This is just simply awesome! Would you,know how much “real”time it took to build the whole machine?

The spring in Sosa Metal's power hammer allows a smaller motor at higher speed because momentum, speed and direction change become stored energy in the spring. Karl's direct link mechanism uses straight, mechanical advantage in the lengths of arms to both stationary link and upper die. Karl's guess is reasonable about hydraulic cylinder spindles being alloy, most likely 4130 (4140 carbon content is a bitch to weld). 4130 chrome-moly steel has good weldability and even annealed 4130 has higher toughness than 1008-1010 low-carbon or A-grade steels common on wrought shapes (angle and square/rectangle tube). Probably good to weld a bolt shank that had six or eight 'dash marks' on hex head or use a socket-head cap screw, as those are alloy steel. Cracked welds on the first set of Karl's dies likely came welding alloy steel at room temperature. Alloy steels aren't easy to weld and pre-heating die/bolt before weld reduces tendency to crack. Well-soaked, pre-heated material stays hot and slows down cooling/shrinking after welding. Avoid getting alloy steels red-hot where possible as that does similar to a heat-treat process. Rapid temperature changes can cause cracks (like with water-hardening grade tool steel for example).

Wow, it's working great. If you lowered the peak of the beak on the lower die a tiny bit maybe it might need a little less power when pulling the work piece back in the flattening phase? Just a thought, it looked like it was hanging up there a few times.

You should go the opposite direction with the arms and make a foot pedal

A foot treadle would be awesome and keep your hands free. Maybe cable operated to avoid the cludgy linkage.

I challenge you to make just one hub cap. For your truck behind you.

👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻

Come over to New Zealand when you go to Aus

Golf balls make good knobs.

I want to make a suggestion about guards on your hammer machine. The belt drive needs a guard. The gear drive on the bead roller also needs guard around it. Don't get me wrong the machines are great but not everyone is not used to working around them. Keep up the great work. 12/9/23 Louis

roll the motor down so the clutch lever is down then make a pedal to engauge it!