I’m a little surprised at the inaccuracies of this meter. I have always thought of Kaiweets being reasonably accurate for it’s price point. Very good test review. Thanks!

Very impressive testing approach. and no hidden agendas and trying to sell it, just let reality stand on its own two feet and exactly how it should be.. also got a variant of this clamp meter, though its the Habotest version HT208D. its somewhat cheaper and the only difference I can tell is the probes, that is some tacy cheap ones and not the silicone'ish variant from the Kaiweets.. Its pretty new just arrived, but will try to test it out to see if I get the same variables., or at least as good as my noob'ish knowledge & tools can manage. thx for one thorough testing.. subscribed as I like the honest approach that takes center, at least in the video above i just saw.

After the dialog here, I complained to Kaiweets customer service about the poor performance of my HT206D and they sent me a free replacement! That's something in their favor. I think the basic problem is that this meter does not measure down to milliamps which is what you need to detect many automotive parasitic drain situations. I looked at the UniT with a 2A scale that you mentioned, and then found a Mestek unit with 2, 20, and 100A scales, and a millivolt accuracy on the 2A scale, for a little cheaper. It arrived a few days ago. It's detecting a very small parasitic drain, but varying from 1 to 20 mA over a 5 to 10 minute period. That seems odd, but may be a built-in feature of the car's electronics. That is an acceptable amount that should not drain the battery for months. So now I need to figure out why my nearly new battery drained last time after sitting for 2 weeks. I use this car infrequently for certain purposes. Perhaps I am not driving enough to recharge it sufficiently, or there is a fault in the charging circuit. I'll use the new current clamp to check alternator output next.

Most unfortunate…. I bought this meter to verify peak amp draw on startup for my HVAC unit. I’ve purchased a soft start unit and had hoped to capture the before and after. I guess I’ll get a “value”, but it won’t be accurate. I’m wondering if you just got a faulty unit? Thank you for the very thorough testing on both Video #1 and #2. Best I’ve seen so far. Well done!

Why did you not Zero the Kaiweets before current measurement? I am sure the accuracy will then improve. Manual specifies Zeroing. Read the section on zero button and current measurement.

the ht208 clamp can be calibrated with calibration potentiometers, inside, there are 2, have you tried to calibrate manually? that would have been interesting to see.

Thanks for the video. Can you clarify something for me? What is the correct position of the clamp on the wire for DC current testing? You seem to have the wire running parallel to the plane of the meter in your test rig. Is it all right to have the wire running perpendicular to the plane of the meter? I get a reading this way, and it is more convenient in my arrangement where I am trying to measure parasitic drain on a car battery. An added confusion for me is that I watched an instructional video from Fluke where they show the clamps not even closed on the wire; rather the wire fits loosely within the open space enclosed by the clamp. (Perhaps this works for AC?) Please clarify.

4:46 have you compared measurements with the 50 turn coil using another clamp meter to see if the flux stimulating an actual high current is accurate? I wonder if the high number of turns will match the theory or if they affect the readings.

thanks :)

Just got back from my garage with a much reduced opinion of this clamp meter. I've had it over a year and never felt I could rely on it for much, but my recent test just proved just how absurdly inaccurate it is. As I explained in previous post, I am trying to track down a parasitic drain in my 2001 Ford Taurus. The clamp meter was showing a 0.48A drain on the lead from the disconnected negative terminal, and a 0.23A drain on the positive terminal with the engine shut down and all systems off. Something was peculiar about this because it did not change over time, whereas there should have been an increase when the electronic control system "woke up" and a decrease when the control system "went to sleep." To see if the problem was with the clamp meter, I disconnected the lead to the positive terminal of the car's battery. The clamp meter still read 0.48A. and stayed at that value after multiple on/off cycles of the meter, disconnecting and replacing it on the wire, and zeroing out of the DC amp function. Then I disconnected both negative and positive terminal from the battery, and still found a 0.48A reading with the clamp on the disconnected negative lead and 0.23A when clamped to the disconnected positive battery lead!! What is this meter responding to--the thickness of the wire? I tried it on a random 6-inch length of wire that was connected to nothing, and got a reading somewhere around 0.28A. Laughing to myself, I next put the amp clamp around the shank of a flat head screw driver. It read 3.63A and flashed orange! Perhaps there is some residual magnetism in the shank which confuses the meter. But what about the disconnected copper wires? Judge for yourself if you want to trust this piece of junk for anything other than entertaining an infant with flashing lights. As far as my real problem, there is indeed some sort of drain through the negative battery lead, because when I connected my trustworthy Simpson meter between the disconnected negative terminal and ground, the built-in circuit breaker repeatedly though intermittently tripped. I believe I have a faulty controller unit, known in Ford lingo as a GEM (generic electronic module). I decided to order a used replacement on eBay and see if it fixes my ongoing problem of a new battery dying after a week or so of not driving the car. . . . Thanks again for your video.

like to know VFD frequency reading