@EVERYTHINGcpo did you notice much from a performance side of things after fitting the engine & trans mounts? thanks

Upgrade the transmission mount aka Dogbone. That should stop or reduce the loud banging sound on hard acceleration.

Interesting. I don’t find it bad at all. In fact I was wondering how the track sports might be. NVH tolerance is such a subjective thing.

@@EVERYTHINGcpo glad it’s working out for you. Great channel and content. I’m running an EQT stage 2+ custom tune as well and the power output is incredible. My stock mounts were worn and sloppy at 50k when I tried the billet 034 mounts. They were beautiful and I really wanted to like them, but the vibration made the car feel cheap. Under power I could feel the engine through the steering wheel. Switching back to fresh OEM mounts was like a new car, and power delivery was smooth and tight. Just my experience. I did a ECS poly engine/trans/pendulum mounts in a friends GTI and the whole car vibrates like a race car. Not my thing, but he liked it.

@@AlanSutton I too went through the stocks at only 19k, then went with the Street Density and those were changed yet again after just 10k. It is the Transmission mount that gives, but they only sell them in pairs. When you begin to feel that "lurch" at low speed (like a shifting of the chassis) then you know they are worn. If you get your mounts through FCPeuro (whichever you choose), then at least you can get them again and return for store credit to use again at a later date on the same part or otherwise. Most other mount manufacturers bypassed the 7speed and produced 6speed upgrades, so it's a slippery slope in that category of the GTI. BTW - if acquiring the Street or Tracksports from FCPeuro, they do not carry the "retro fit" kits. So, you would need to purchase the entire component set again - and $900 after tax is a lot to chew.

You’re in luck. I made a video on it. :-). kzfaq.info/get/bejne/p8V8nd2durnKco0.html

I only did the front. I thought about doing all four, but it was honestly out of laziness that I didn’t. The risk is when you jack the motor and trans that you don’t want to tweak anything. It was not a big deal, but just pay attention to that.

You don't even need to use jack stands if you have a low profile hydraulic jack. But, if you are on a lowered suspension you would need to initially have two jack stands for the front to get the hydraulic jack underneath the trans and the engine. You'd use a good 2x4 of maybe a foot long, centered on the jack and across each component you are working on (Engine/Trans).