Okay a funny story. I was once hired to set up a digital room correction system for a person who reported the balance was always to one side. After getting the system channel matched across the whole frequency range I was later informed he was unhappy. I had not met the customer in person before this, just bought in to do the job. I sat next to him and explained how I had matched the channels from the listening position. After that he said "I'm sorry can you speak to my other side, I'm slightly deaf in this ear." :O True story! We all sometimes dont accept reality!

This is what I like and need. Audio geeks talking geeky audio tech stuff that nobody wants to explore in depth. Make more videos about electronics, I think there are many people who likes this stuff.

one of the best videos you've made. understanding electrical engineering and what the components are doing to your signal is important IMO. thanks for the lesson. Cheers from LA

I knew I wasn’t crazy when i hear more out of right channel than left

Been using the Mackie Passive Big Knob for well over a year with no complaints. Honestly, at the price if it dies I’ll probably just get another one. Recommended. 👍

Just an engineer's plug here. These days we have powerful, buffered line outputs in audio interfaces, coupled with active studio monitors that have input amplification (and these days we get megaohms of input impedance in $1 opamps), meaning there's virtually no possibility you'll have problems due to impedance. DC blocking capacitors have to be in line with the signal, not put across input and ground like you have shown. A resistor and capacitor in series (which is what actually ends up happening) does not change the frequency response. Also, tbqh for better (and more consistent) stereo imaging I'd go for hooking up the pot to V+, having it supply a DC offset voltage that controls a stereo VCA that actually processes the signal. Lots of quality off-the-shelf VCA chips with way better parameters than a potentiometer.

I have one of these - and I like it a lot. Had many passive volume controllers and this build and functionality feels quality to be honest!

I've had my Palmer Monicon for years and it works really great !

Creating a sub buss in your DAW to output to alternate monitors works too. Sounds great as well.

I have the Big Knob and I am very satisfied with it, works great in my setup :)

I've got the same Mackie Big Knob. Great device, allows me to A/B the DAW interface output between small 5" reference monitors, and 8" inch monitors with a sub.

This product is extremely handy to switch between two monitor pairs (on the fly ) ! Great while mixing and mastering.

I use the mackie big knob in my studio and now I know why I hear more from the right speaker than from the left speaker.

I considered monitor controllers from Mackie, Behringer, and Presonus. Honestly, I was not very impressed because I thought they were overly expensive for what they did. It was difficult for me to find only what I needed, without extra features that in my opinion didn't really belong in a monitor controller. Fortunately, I stumbled across the JBL M-Patch Active-1. For about the same price as the Makie Big Knob passive, I got an active controller that does cut and gain, has four inputs and two monitor outputs. It has a stereo pair USB I/O which is all I need, and enables me to hear my computer audio on my monitors. It has two independent headphone amplifier, plus talk back into the headphones. One thing that I found really useful is that input A is RCA jacks so I can use that for my drum machine, making it very easy to do drum programming tasks without having to run it through a console. Inputs B & C cover my two consoles. Input D is the USB. To be honest, this JBL unit it has exceeded my expectations and I can't believe how convenient it's made my life.

Thank you, great explanation!!!!

Damnnn I have this Big Knob Passive and I had to turn the volume of my right speaker up by alot to match them... Thanks for the in depth explanation

Just fyi, I manage the studios at a university. This big knob has been in one of the studio for years now and we have no issues with it so far. And this is in a university setting where the gear sees a lot of abuse of the kids

Congratulations for making an interesting cool show out of a volume knob ! I had one, it is from SPL ! SPL is a great company and very underrated I think !

Ah a Mackie controller. This can suit me with my Mackie monitors.

some audio interfaces/converters have this sort of channel variance on their outputs and can reach a 1dB range

You got a new subscriber man...! Tysm ❤❤

Very balanced explanation! I have panned toward the passive one.. central station from presonus.

I use the big knob as a switch only and never use the volume knob. For that purpose its perfect.....

Interesting - as always! I've been using a Presonus Central Station for years - I've recently suspected there's something awry with it. BTW I am a recovered electronics engineer (sound only now!) , I found that the trim pots (which don't belong in pro equipment IMO) were affecting the volume of other channels, which shouldn't happen... for example. Anyway, after chatting with a friend I decided to take it out of my system. I use 2 sets of speakers. I use Studio One - it has a listen bus; I can use that to control the level and change the outputs, so it covers the basic requirements for a monitor controller, I added DIM and MONO and a VU meter to the channel strip, I was shocked, and pleased, how better my sound was and how tight my stereo image had become. It's now digital at the way from the (Focusrite) D to A to the speakers. It's not a perfect solution, like the bass bin has become a problem, although I don't use it much, stuff like that. I like Presonus gear and software and have to point out that my Central station is old and, probably, overused.

Really great Video! I picked one of these up so I can A/B speaker sets coming from my symphony desktop, I planned to leave the max so I didn't think I would have any issue with L R difference . I don't hear any coloration in sound and think it does a great job for the price, but I noticed it introduced high frequency noise in my speakers. I opened it up to see the cheap circuitry and It got really annoying so I returned it and got the Heritage Audio Baby RAM. More then double the price but not worth putting the big knob it in the chain when I spent so much on Focal twins and mogami studio cables.

Great video. I use a Behringer control 2 (active/middle class) to control two pairs of speakers. It does its job and it's built like a tank!

I'm thinking of getting the ART SCC instead but this was the first one I considered

You are very accurate on the projected life of passive monitor switches. My first SM pro M patch 2 lasted 2 years and then became scratchy on the volume knob. When I used electronics cleaner to fix it. The stereo balance was slightly off. I replaced it with a Mackie passive Big Knob and hopefully I will get another two years of service. I might just build a 50 position 2 channel variable resistor board when the Mackie is end of life.

I have exactly the same big knob model showed on video. IMHO The sound is clear than like use a direct connection. Your point of view is correct about the interation betwhen the capacitor and resistor chain, but on my experience on work the mackie big knob dosen't change the sound. Cheers from Brazil

You answered all the questions about monitor controllers that worried me. Thanks.

This video was so geeky I loved it. This is valuable content 🤘🏼

Just an idea: couldn’t this monitor controller be done digitally through the DAW/audio interface and only have the Pot as an control input for that system? The pot value would just be read by an ADC and the DAW would interpret that as a controller input. I know it’s not analog anymore but a computer could make this easy.

I have an RME 800 sound card that is my monitor controller. Main outs 1&2 go directly to the inputs of my main amp (Crown DC150 with inputs at wide open) and I control my monitoring levels via the RME interface software. It has 8 places to store your levels setup and I generally use 3, one for low level listening, one for mid level and one for loud monitoring all set precisely in steps of 6dB. This helps with getting consistent levels mix to mix. Even a slight difference in monitoring of as much as 1dB can make a significant difference to your perceived brightness or dullness of a track as with the low end. I recommend this if your sound card interface software can do it. Most importantly!!, my RME main out 7&8 go to my VU meters as well (1k@-12FS = 0VU)

Great share on KZfaq! Waiting for this video time ago. Thank you Wytse!

Update 2023: I'm done with non-VCA controllers. My JBL M-patch and Mackie Studio wore out. I'm using the Behringer Studio XL and the stereo field stays consistent throughout the throw of the volume control. I verified the drift with white noise/cancellation testing with all the other units. The Behringer is absolutely silent. My mixes reflect a solid L/R balance as a result. Personally I am sensitive to balance to the degree of less than 1/3 dB (tested). None of the other monitor controllers are worth the money.

Thanks for clearing this up for me. Good job.

Been using SPL MTC for about 10 years.. love it

isn't then more accurate to just use some midi controller to handle software output volume? I'm using old Faderport (with help of BOME MIDI) to control output volume of RME HDSPe AIO and it works well

I just use a mixer I've had lying around for years to control monitors, provide a phone input for music listening, etc. I wonder how much the deviation in the stereo image you showed really affects the sound in the room. I know, depends on speakers, depends on room, depends on ears. I would not agonize over the "tone" of buffers. It's pretty easy to design a transparent buffer. Keep in mind, there's no perfect room, and all the monitor controller affects is the room sound. Your ears already have to compensate for room imperfections. Good point about pot wear though. That could become an issue in the long term.

Excellent points! Don't most interfaces have volume control? Mine does (Scarlett 2i2) and it works well. Best place would be VCAs right at the output of the DAC. The Scarlett's is probably not there--good VCAs aren't cheap. I would lean toward having VCAs controlled by a single pot. VCA IC technology was pretty good in the 90s and has improved since then. Otherwise have a multiple stack of $30 pots on a single shaft and go passive. Switched resistors have their own set of problems; relay contacts get dirty and wear out; as do switch contacts--especially if signal is present during switching. Solid state relays introduce distortion. Etc. You do get what you pay for. Bottom line, your little box will probably last long enough to pay for itself and a new one, when that becomes necessary. Good video!

I have the Behringer Monitor 1 , really simple but for me it's an upgrade in my workflow. Once again as always a very good informative video! :-D

Since when do you use the volume on a monitor controller all the time anyway? It’s primary use is for switching monitors. Once you’ve set up the volume you’re good to go.

Thanks man! Trying to find a video like this for days!!!

Great video. You’ve helped me in my decision making more than any other gear review

Ahhh I love this channel!

Do u have a video like this on Active Vs Passive Monitor SPEAKERS..??

I use a passive attenuator made by a Polish company called Khozmo, 48 steps from Minus 60 db to 0 db the channel matching is to +/- 0.1 db.

SO DOES IT COLOUR THE SOUND OR NOT?? I have a pair of Genelec 8030 and was thinking getting one of those..

Thank you

In such a simple monitor controller, the potentiometer can be easily replaced with a better one when it wears out. Sometimes simple is better. Thanks for this review. I've read some reviews from people claiming it filters your top end but seriously if you, and I consider you an audio freak, and I mean that positively, could not make it go filtery, then it should be good. I'm gonna get this one.

Just wondering if 1 dB difference between left/right is really noticeable. How much difference do you get when you sit a bit off center between your monitors?

Really like to try Imperium from 2400 Audio or Nero from Audient. Presonus Central Station is a nice option too.

you forgot to mention Crane Song Avocert. in theory is a converter, but has a volume control too. really popular in mastering studios apparently :) i really like your videos dude. carry on!

Fascinating behind the circuits info! The Big Knob is a great switcher. However, ours only lasted a couple years before dimming the left side gain. Would recommend it for $50, but it will need replaced within a couple years.

Excellent video, thanks. I wish I had viewed this video before I purchased the Mackie controller! With my gear, the Mackie is not only attenuating the output signal from my interface to my speakers but is also noticeably degrading the overall sound quality.

One of the best videos on youtube🙏🏼💯

Good video! It would be nice if you made a video like that concerning interfaces (budget 250 dollar). There is a new model by native instruments. Maybe a technical comparison of the NI interface and the new scarlet gen.3 would be very useful. greets from Germany 😊

I'm using a MOTU stage b-16. I didn't want to use any kind of analog volume controller so I used the Lemur app on an old old ipad and control the motu avb mixer directly over OSC. no more scratchyness, no more right vs. left level inconsistencies. the hard part was getting lemur to do the linear->log value conversion :P

Now you should make a video if a cheap active monitor controller (like the Behringer Monitor2 for around 100€, which is a clone of the SPL 2Control) does things better than a passive attenuator.

The dude that promote the chords in the ads before the videos is so fake he is hypnotic.

There is another simple-ish solution. A servo controlled, active buffered potentiometer. It sound complex but basically you have a motor controlled volume knob, like so many 90's amps, then a microcontroller 'seeks' a specific resistance, rather than just going to a certain position. If the left and right potentiometer are different it doesn't matter, one could be 100k one 50k - the servo will seek until they match, at any level setting. My Cyrus 'Pre' works this way and at 22 years old it stil works with original potentiometers. No crackles because they have been enclosed their whole life. (Just as well, Alps don't make them anymore!)

so presonus central station (I think not in production anymore) has trim for each channel per each speaker. What about that?

I own one of these, honestly never noticed any coloration, since passive, or level issues like you pointed out. Would a passive monitor controller like this only cause the up to 1db difference in volume from L to R, or does this cause phase issues too? 1db isn't great, but fairly minor in the real world over that spectrum in imperfect rooms, but phase issues can be devastating for mixing and mastering.

Really like the format of this video. Learning about these types of subjects is very useful! Please, make more educational video's! :-)

Do you have any idea of the quality and features of this Coleman audio products for monitor controlling ?

how about presonus monitor station v2 and the stereo shift thing you described?

I just want to throw it out there than even if there is a small variance in the stereo field, the benefits of having a dedicated analog pot to control output volume really outweigh any minute signal degredation like this. IMO There is a huge value in having easy/ergonomic access to set the volume in your studio in a *repeatable* way. (ie. having a knob where you know that certain positions on the knob correspond to specific SPL levels in your listening position.) So if anyone is worried about not spending enough money to get a resistor-relay based monitor control... don't worry! Just get the one you can afford because any volume control is better than none. The 120$ little volume knob I bought years ago was one of the best investments i made in my studio space after monitors and soundcard.

I almost went for the Avocet once, or the Dangerous Monitor... but anytime I considered it, reality kicked in. I have the original Big Knob from when they first came out, and back then anyway, they were made fine, and I really don't hear a difference directly out from my interface which has analog attenuator (Lynx) vs. the Big Knob. I also use JBL M-Patch for a more compact active controller... makes some pops when clicking some of the buttons but overall, seems fine. (also has USB input, although I've gotten noise on that so I don't use it, but handy in a pinch) Maybe if I mixed and mastered all day for a living, sure, I'd want the stepped control and to REALLY know I am at the same dB potential at each step on the dial. :) Totally agree with you BTW that the "active is sacrilege" is ridiculous. It's like saying, you don't need hydraulic brakes for your car - just use an anchor that you drop through the floor when you need to stop. Or the emergency brake. ;-0

iv'e got a big knob!! no complaints so far 😉

Thanks for you good video I do enjoy watching your channel :) What I did is made my own buffer / impedence controller which consisted of 10 outputs with knobs basically cost around 80euros but was high end circuits which you would of paid around 2.5k euros for. No need to spend that stupid amount and ran it through a passive box. What you are spending a lot of money on is the box and assembly etc the refinement for want of a better word, but this is not necessary. For an extra 30eu I have fixed in a metal box housed with silicon = job done :) Inputs from source and monitors went directly to buffer control and buffer control mirrored to passive box.

I have a Gracedesign m905. the one in the screen shot.. Its the best monitor controller i have listened thru.

Good potentiometers these days use conductive plastic versus carbon for the resistive element. Sure they are more expensive, but well within the price you paid for that box - at least I hope the control you have uses conductive plastic potentiometers. You are correct with regards to ganging these devices - even conductive plastic will have variations between potentiometers in a gang. Usually devices of this type try not to use reactive components (capacitors or inductors) due to phase variations across the audio spectrum, but instead use some kind of resistive pad network. Sure these pad networks are not perfect, but electronic engineering is a game of compromise wherein the shift in resistance throughout the range of the control knob will have negligible impact on the signal levels - in fact it can be designed as part of the gain reduction of the control. Good discussion, thanks for the video :-)

I like these videos! Even in expensive consoles there can be a drift between left and right. If I run our Harrison console on reaaaally low volume I hear more of one side than the other. I've experienced the same thing in other studios too where the master monitor is a knob instead of a fader.

I bought this so I could connect my mix cube. I like the functionality, and indeed if you upgrade ur speakers and interface etc this might be last thing you need to invest in...

This was the missing info that I needed now - to know that I need a 3-4 thousand € knob to control my monitors' volume. I was happy choosing that very same Mackie Big Knob and I wanted to see a few videos about it before buying. Now ... . At least I found out why my monitors didn't started reproduce sound at the same time while turning up the volume knob on my previous Focusrite Scarlett 2i2b 3rd gen. Thanks for the info, but I hate you :))) I believe I heard something about digitally controlling volume knobs (which have a perfect balance between the L & R channels). Are those part of the 3rd category (the super expensive ones), or there is yet another category? Without those "knobs" being separate sound interfaces on their own (with ADCs and DACs inside), I do not see how they could digitally control the volume. I believe the Mackie Big Knob will do the job and there is no need for something expensive. It is good to know that the little difference in panning comes from that potentiometer and not from faulty DACs. A little knob twisting at the back of one of the monitors wouldn't harm and would remember us that life is "analog" :))) (referring to its imperfections).

this video is from 2019 and we are in 2022 now....IS IT BROKEN NOW? Because a lot of people saying it wont last more than a few months or a year....

Mismatching impedances can be a real struggle with those cheap ones. I've used a Big Knob Passive with my old cheap ass ESI nEar speakers, worked perfectly fine. Upgraded to a newer pair of cheap ass Kali LP6 and I was getting massive distortion when attenuating the signal. So everyone thinking to get such a passive one, try it beforehand, to see if it works with your speakers!

I have the original big knob. its a 4 x 3 . lots of ins and outs. Its pretty much indispensable. Only b/c I work with many speaker sets , and multiple input mixers. My big knob is one hole away from being completely stuffed.. jk .. but 4 real .. I ended up taking the power supply out of it and racking it. For 2 reasons. One is that it was humming way too close to signals and buggin the crap out of me(yea i can hear that shit), and two; the supply gets hot and changes things in the mixer. Things=noise floor. Crosstalk. crackly buttons etc ... Ever since then its been a perfect unit. When you take it apart you will find just how fkin close they put the PS next to the signal boards and opamps ,, its crazy how they jammed all that in there.... In my studio I pretty much take all the 60hz old skool regulated supplyz and put them in metal boxes so they don't get noise in any wires or cables. just run the clean DC wires in their own loom . Not having to worry about 'don't put that wire there' makes sessions a lot more fun

Always super useful.

I use Rme, I'm thinking about the Arc controller to bypass all the external monitor controller "problem" and route everything through Totalmix

Nowadays I would look for an audio interface with 2 different Speaker Outputs and 2 different Headphone Outputs. And when I need just the possibility to switch Monitors, why do I need a volume knob? The One in my audio interface do the same job. So if I want to keep my interface, I would search for a passiv switch box - just to connect mor Speakers. All other Features are in my interface. There is one feature that is missing ever in the mid class controllers and that ist to adjust the volume of the connected pair of speaker to each other.

I use the Audient software control panel as my monitor control panel.

Could you also please do some video where you're overviewing the studio setups for beginners / professionals. HW SNAKE OIL )) For example making advices on monitors, preamps and... ok.. monitor controllers :)

I have the same Mackie Passive Monitor Controller but there was a hum/buzz when switching between my Yamaha HS5 to Avantone Mixcube (powered). So I assume there's some current/loop? I spent days trying to figure it out troubleshooting everything but it was still there, the hum bouncing over to the "silent" speaker when switched. I bought a Furman Power Conditioner and plugged everything into it but no difference. Finally, I was due for a new interface so got one that had a desktop/monitor controller built in. It's active so I guess that took care of the problem, but it still makes me wonder what the issue was with the Mackie.

There is no passive unaffected audio. As soon as you insert anything in a signal chain that is analog, you affect the audio slightly. Passive unpowered devices affect it worse because there is no power to bring the audio signal up to original levels. Passive you lose signal a little bit every time there is another connection. Powered audio devices better because they maintain the original audio signal better.

Good informative video. I've owned 3 different price point monitor controllers. My first was a JBL with room correcting software too, was ok, not great though. Could hear the difference after setting it up. Next was a Dangerous Music Monitor with the fancy remote, very nice, relay, great clear sound, expensive. My current one which sounds great and was affordable is a Presonus Monitor Station V2. I would recommend it to anyone, and it's low mid level I would say.

i notice when i turn my volume knob at my focusrite scarlette interface very low then the right monitor gets quiter than the left one

Thank you! After watching, I know you referenced the different "classes" of monitor controllers and potentiometers. Are all the $0-200 passive controllers internally the same and going to have the same problems? I ask because there's the Big Knob and then there's the RCF MC-1. $100 price difference.

Interesting topic. I use Apogee Element interface/converter, the control is all digital, no physical volume path. I'd recommend it.

Thanks for video!

Some awesome insight in this video!

Very interesting!

ANOTHER great video !! gave us the liwdown on passive/active vol.controllers THANKS !!

Thanks for the nice demonstration. I wanted to get this 2X2 passive monitor controller. I have a question, Can I connect a pair of monitors and a subwoofer in 'A' output and a pair of monitors in 'B' output? Output 'A' = mon out- sub in- sub out -speakers in. Output 'B' = mon out- speakers in Please guide me regarding this method I have Adam audio t5v monitors and Adam audio T10S subwoofer

very good video - always wondered about this!

I mean, I love the Big Knob Studio plus, but they keep breaking. My home one has broken once and my friends has broken two times. But they are very good. They do have a strange thing though. When at minimal volume it is true it has a difference in volume between the stereo.

Thanks, great info!

Would the Heritage Audio Baby Ram have these issues as well? The knob clicks, but I'm not sure whether or not that is just a design thing to match the feel of higher end ones. I had a JBL MSC-1 for years and now it won't turn on, so looking for something to replace it.

Getting flawless service from my Drawmer CMC2...

I mean.. my interface has nice knobs on the front for monitors, headphones, etc.. they can be assigned a little also. Definitely recommend the focusrite 18i20 3rd gen. I only would not buy it if I knew I needed more than 18 inputs over time. It can expand to 18 but not more unfortunately.