22-36 low gear is like having a 32-51 1x low gear.

Agree, 9 speed is really good to work around with. Especially if you like to mix up MTB and road components. For Shimano parts I do feel there is quite a drop in build quality between 10 speed and 9 speed, which is a bit of a shame.

@@markachternaam5207 But you can find old deore xt and tiagra rear derailleurs who have better materials and microshift have their rear derailleurs for 9 speed that are compatible with all 9 speed shifters.

@@analbumfromhell1842 that’s true. Unfortunately it’s not only build quality, it is also spec. For example finding a Shimano 9 speed derailleur that supports a bigger sprocket than 36T is actually quite hard. Nonetheless, agree with your sentiment. 9 speed is cool, and probably easier to deal with for most.

@@markachternaam5207 I was running shimano Sora that is only up to 32t with derailleur extender thingy in snowy winter months with 12t-42t 1x 42t setup and it was good together with 175mm long cranks it gave enough torque to plow through snow that was like 40cm+ deep. On a old USSR road bike with 700cx40 in the back and 29x2.00 in the front.

But the larger ring as noted in the stream are not "shifting" outer rings. I will take a look at the shimano set you reference here. I would need an adapter for my FSA set up. Thanks

That’s what I found too.

I can relate to this.

That was the design of the half-step with granny gearing in my optinion .... that last shift to the small granny to keep the show moving up a steep hill and to the big one for down hills and tail winds

I'm curious, what would be considered the go-to chain lube there? You can pay as much for lubes as you do for a chain, if not more.

@@thepandaman old folks 2T oil, used engine oil you ask your neighbor who drives a diesel public utility vehicle, Singer machine oil works great too. Basically what you have and what you can afford. The modern ceramic spray on stuff are usually for those who can afford it.

Hmmmmmm food for thought

@@sirensynapse5603 Right. The power required to go from 27 to 28 mph is exponentially more than going from 14 to 15. Best off enjoying the 27 mph and having a drink and snack instead.

How did you set that up the 40/26? I am looking for something very similar. Thanks

@@markifflander8508 it is the stock XT 2× crankset with a 10sp XT cassette using Wolftooth 16t at 42t giant cog. I've setup Advent 9 speed 11-42 with 38/26 on a 110 BCD triple converted to 2x with great success

That's a great set up. I run 24/42 and same cassette. My rig has a 1x big ring for rough descents and a hand shifted granny. I don't use a front derailleur. I'll hammer the big ring as long as I possibly can, then get off, catch my breath and change gears. No biggy. This is party pace!

Agree, i still use triple chainring on my MTB and Hybrid. Fun fact, in my country, its easier and cheaper to buy triple chainring MTB crank than dual chainring 😂 of course if you don't mind the look, weight and square taper BB 😁

@@deckyputra1281 I even use a triple on my favorite road bike. Which I have successfully done many century rides. Even the famous Death Ride, all 5 climbs, 3 different years. Triples rule. BTW, just curious. Which country are you in?

And, neatly you now have a 9 speed bike ! Mint.

I agree, I like the triple as well, but I think you can go a little further than that. Ur range is not that limited and 9 speed chains are cheap.

@@BrandonMeyer1641 You're right. With the road bike (10 spd rear) I shoot for 4 gears at each end before going to middle chainring. But my favorite MTB is 8 spd rear, where I shoot for 3 gears at each end. I find gear indicators helpful when trying to stick to this plan.

Duckas is available via aliexpress. Its more expensive than 5$ but its still a great deal compared to most US available rings

Plenty of older clamp on derailleurs handle a 16t difference. You can even surpass the recommended spec if you know what you're doing. I will admit, front derailleurs are often very specific for odd shaped frames and uncommon mounts. Its often not as simple to find such a simple part. Some derailleurs are very specific, even proprietary to certain frames. We can thank the silly bike industry to make such a simple machine often so damned complicated.

Yup! I like old mtb triple cranks. 24 granny with a 42 tooth 1x chainring is my set up for loaded offroad bike packing. Maybe a chainring guard or a rock ring on there for extra rough trails. 11-36 cassette. No front derailleur. I get off, catch my breath, shift by hand. Party pace! I'll probably switch to 20/38 on a 94mm bcd crank when I move to Colorado. Ive got some of those old SRs. Where do you find rings for that oddball bcd? Mine's set up singlespeed.

If the high ring is 44 i still want it. But otherwise I agree.

@@rollinrat4850 found the 42 on ebay..., and the 28 in England brand new. Stronglight made/ makes a crank with the 86BCD

@@robertwyland7770 Stonglite still makes very nice stuff. My favorite looking cranks of all time are the old Model 93 'star' cranks. They're from the '70s, off an old Motobecane. Problem is old French parts are weird. They hardly work on anything else. The 93s still on my old fixed gear 'cross bike. My SRs are just a few years younger. Theyre on a grocery getter bike. I think I still have the middle and granny rings squirrel away somewhere.

Does Origin8 Chainrings work with 11 speed chain and drivetrain ? I thought they are for 9 or max 10 speed chains

@@eggplant9277 I don't use front derailleur or a front shifter. You can't use a derailleur with a 1x chainring anyways. It doesn't make any sense. No offense, but You missed the entire point! Hear me out.... K. I. S. S. (Again, no offense!) Its a 1x! (Sort of) With a hand shifted granny! I use one friction shifter. Brifters suck! They're complex, they're prone to damage in a crash or dirt ingestion, they're like clockwork inside and very expensive to replace. Once damaged, or worn, they are next to impossible to service. Ever get a broken piece of cable stuck in a brifter? Its a pain in the ass! They break cables often. There is nothing simple about brifters in the least. They are job security for me, a mechanic. NEVER disassemble one unless you have lots of patience and perhaps an ME degree. Who would want to ride the hoods on two different shaped levers? That would be awkward I'd imagine. But to each, his own.... I got some used brifters for free. They were on my bike for one ride. Then I sold them.... Unreliable junk that can't handle an innocent little crash. Gravel bikes are dirt bikes. They get USED. A friction shifter still shifts fine WHEN (not if) you bend your hanger or bang up your derailleur and tweak it. Out in the middle of nowhere on a long ride. It keeps shifting fine until you tear the derailleur off the freakin frame or break the cable! Index shifting goes all haywire if anything is damaged just a little. The more gears you use, the worse it gets. A brifter is proprietary. It works with one derailleur and a specific number of gears. Making replacement parts an issue. A friction shifter works with any derailleur and any speed cassette. So if something breaks out on tour, you can 'jerry rig' with whatever is available out in some 3rd world country or almost anything found in a pile of old free junk. Been there, done that. My bikepacking bikes are designed around reliability and simplicity #1. Ease of the most minimal maintence. They'll tolerate abuse and even ignorance! Leave nothing to chance. Bikepacking and touring offroad is a rough and tumble world. It's dirty and we're fun hogs who ignore our junk! Shit definately always happens! I ride in places with no cell service or help for days. Walking out nor that call of shame are an option! Been there, done that too. I learn from my mistakes! I wish to meet my grandchildren one day!! Friction shifters never die! Mine are all 30 years old or so. I use either a bar end or thumbie of some sort. Even a downtube shifter could be used for the shortest possible cable. That would give ultra precise, quick shifting. Friction shifting is also an option on some indexed bar end shifters, thumbies or downtube shifters. So you can have the clicky bits, but switch to friction if needed. My Sun Tour is a really old 7 speed indexed thumb shifter. My bar ends are worn out 9 speed Dura Ace. The indexing stopped working a few years ago. I use anything from a 6 speed freewheel on a really old vintage wheel to 10 speed cassettes on more modern wheels. Ive got lots of wheels. I build custom wheels as a business. I'm also a pro mechanic. I can have all the newest gear at cost. I want none of it because it doesn't last. New bike junk is a poor value. Bikes are supposed to be simple. Its also supposed to be a'green sport'!! Brifters last maybe 10 years if you're lucky and never crash. Riding serious technical terrain on top of the hoods on a serious dirt ridden rigid bike is just a bad idea anyways. In rough terrain, it's a good way to crash and go over the bars. Your weight is up too high and over the front end For my latest bikepacker monster cross 29er, I took a sweet vintage Sun Tour XC Pro left thumb shifter, modified the clamp and mounted it right under the hoods on my dirt drops h'bar. I use a very high stem, so I can ride in the hooks most always, just like dirt drops are designed to be ridden. Riding in the hooks, your weight is more evenly distributed on both wheels, so you get much better traction and have a lower center of gravity. This is great for cornering and bike control. You have a much better grip on the bars for rough terrain. You can wrap your hands all around the bars! Your hands are in a more natural, powerful position than even an mtb and you can still put your hands on the hoods or tops of the bars to move around a bit and rest. Those positions are no a longer primary position. Theyre just for comfort and to change position a bit. The serious business happens in the hooks. Its what they're there for! I always ask people, why have hooks if you never use them? For vanity's sake? You're much more in control when your hands are in a neutral position where you can hold on for dear life! All this stuff makes a huge difference in how your bike handles and corners. Its a weight distribution thing. Most people have the wrong idea riding on drop bars. But it just requires a shift in thinking and a different stem. Getting that high stem is the key to using dirt drops. Lots of riders completely miss this. If you want to ride hard and spend lots of time on the bike, I can't stress simplicity and reliability enough. This is just my two cents and a bit more. I realize everyone can ride whatever and however they want. My particular usage may seem a little extreme, but my machinery is simple, practical and reliable. Bikes should be very simple machines! Its definately your money and your ride. I simply try to use logic and reason.

@@eggplant9277 Right on. Just get out there and ride. That's the important part. Ride what you've got until it dies. Then replace it with something else that gets you there!

Yes. That's why I show options and don't say you MUST buy the IXF.

(That's not meant as an argument against your points in the video, BTW; I was just walking through my own flirtation with a wide/low crankset in this specific weird context.)

I actually found a bashguard that replaces the outer ring on ebay. I can slam the shifts without worrying about overshifting also!

Sweeet boots, btw. Are they Redbacks?

Quoc