Eh, PCTG too expensive just to repeat something like this. Specs are given independent from color anyway. (small channel like mine earns only few bucks per video and if I am not curious about the project, I don't want to invest and be minus with the budget). But if you will buy that nature PCTG and send it to me, I will be happy to test it. Currently I am more curious about Prusament filaments, collecting donations for it ;-)

I just followed the instructions about fan and enclosure (also Fiberlogy confirmed this to me before review, I asked them). About impact strength I asked that myself and it is good that I prepared additional test specimen. My testing method is good because in most cases it confirmed manufacturers specs (eSun, Polymaker)

@@MyTechFun i’m sorry ti say, PCTG is total trash no matter how you print it. The hype is the same tam with CF nylons, or nylon in general, the creep os so much that’s basically unusable for any mid to long therm load applications. I tested almost every filament except for PEEK / Ultem and some exotic/ solubles. The conclusion i made after years of trial is that there’s 3 filaments you can really work with: -PLA for ahestetics -ABS for 99% of functional parts with an enclosure at least 65c, 85 is good, avoid ABS plus and stuff like this -Pure PC if you have at least 110 c chamber or Prusament PC blend if you can go at least 70 for mid dimension parts 50 for smaller Pretty much anything else is a toy and not suited for production purpose. PETG is funny cause has a beautiful color/finish but it’s a toy filament, you can use it around 45c continuous service, maybe 55/50 if blend is nearer to pure PET, around 80 if pure PET but you will need heated chamber so at that point go ABS

@@lorenzobruschetta9919 I cannot read this nonsense. You probably mismatched PETG with ABS. Petg doesnt require heating chamber at all, as it prints like PLA, but has better impact strength and resistance to temperature. The Abs is even better but it requires VERY STRONG ISOLATED heating chamber with able to reach high heating temperature. It is also most toxic of all filaments as you can feel the nasty smell with a nose.

@@dzitiatri i own a 3d printing business, we print thousands of parts and we are specialized over series and large parts, clearly you never done large prints with PET or PETG. EVERY material you print benefit from being printed in an environment brought at TG/Vicat. This is the only way to ensure perfect stress release and dimensional accuracy, resulting in higher mechanical properties and null warping. Some filaments, like PETG, PLA have such a low TG and stress forces when printed that it’s possible to print small to medium parts without any issue even in open style printers. This is possible due to the inertia of the molten mass deposited when printing wich increase the average temperature of the part enough to act like an annealing/post stress release process similar to printing in an heated environment. Also the inherent properties of the matherial, particularly styrene based polymers, have hi elongation at break and low stiffness combined with low tg wich are ideal properties when it comes to print open air, less when you have to bear loads at hi temp. However if you start printing very large parts, with PETG for instance, in an open style printer, the molten mass inertia and the build plate generated heat won’t be enough to keep the average part temperature near TG/Vicat, this will result in warping and low Z strenght up to delamination. You don’t believe me? Try to print a 500 cm3 part in PETG on an open style machine and you’ll discover a whole new world. That’s also one of the reason amateur open style machines are generally small sized. Btw that’s not just my opinion but basic polymer science itself. So before telling someone’s sayn nonsense maybe re evaluate the amount of experience you have in the field.

@@lorenzobruschetta9919 I agree with you 100 percent, that all material print more precise in heated chamber. But you missed answering to your fault statement question. You wrote that "aroubd 80 if pure PET but you will need heated chamber". I printed thousands of parts too without heated chamber. Parts from 2cm till 12 cm diameter. And never had a problem. The biggest problem without heated chamber is if you use full infill and bug part then it will bend the whole heatbed and the part

Thanks for useful info

essentium does seem to work out, based on CNC Kitchen- fiberology's does not, which is a shame

Thank you. I bought Lithuanian maker filalab pctg and will try to compare with petg. I heard essentium has good advertising, but never tested this out. Although I think filament makers are become a marketing gimmicks like all the other industries. I will still give it a try with flalab

@@dzitiatri i used filalab pla as my first filament. absolutly loved it, gonna try their petg spools, hopefully it stands up to my expectation. also price wise it's pretty good here in latvia

@@hashbringer975 they are quite good for the price. Better than devil design or spectrum.

Yeah, it's absolutely the color additives. This test didn't control for the one obvious factor and is thus completely invalid, which is a shame because it would be great to know these results from the same manufacturer even.

I totally agree with DanO and also add that an enclosure is important for PCTG, IMHO.

In these comparison videos I am just following the instructions from manufacturer. Before test I even contacted Fiberlogy about this question and they confirm this (no need for enclosure+fan speeds). If you have the enclosure, maybe ABS or ASA is a better choice.

i am not sure if using an enclosure has as much of an impact on strength and layer adhesion as turning off part cooling. I get it that you are using the suggested print settings, but in my testing it turns out that turning off the fan makes a huge difference.

I tested 30% vs. 50% (MK3S+) on this PCTG, and it makes no difference to layer-adhesion. It only gets much better when turned off. As soon as I applied enough cooling to visibly improve overhangs, layer adhesion suffered (same for PCTG and PETG).

@@uhu4677 the cooling is pain in the ass for all printing filaments i think. Although did you see any improvements from PCTG comparing to PETG ?

Thanks for the tips, probably I will test Essentium too. And yes, I could mention that in the video, so much waste material stays in spool holder after it is empty. I like those new cardboard spools (for example Polymakers)

wow , i had the same thoughts about the higher temp ...

2 great questions!

When I am doing a comparison video, I always try to test in the middle of recommended temperature range. That's what most users will do. Hi temp may also case problems with oozing, overhangs, stringing.. of course, I have a temp tower for that, but again, most stock Enders cannot print above 240C (in this case PETG) or if user have all metal hotend, atill have limitation of 260C by firmware (PCTG). If I do only one material full test, then this is also one of testing parameters (temp vs layer adhesion)

@@MyTechFun Yes, I thought that taking the median temperature would be the prudent thing to do for the test considering there was no noticable changes in print quality across the three temperatures in the test tower, how ever in real world printing I would have taken the highest temperature possible before any quality degradation purley for the increased adhesion properties of higher temp plastic.

Oh I see. Thanks!

Yeah, those secondary roundover bobbins (that you can thankfully take off or they wouldn't fit into AMSs)... like, why??

Interesting, so many comments mentioned their spools. Wasting a lot of plastic.

Eh, yes. Prusa product reviews you will see only on popular channels and I have a feeling that they may be sponsored too. Anyway, no reply from prusa so far, so I ordered all 4 prusament types (PLA, PETG, ASA and PC Blend). The PC Blend CF version will be in separate video. Maybe directly compared to non CF version.

Cooling affect mostly the layer adhesion. Those test specimens have very big overhang, it needs that cooling, close to max recommended value.

Thx, yes ASA is better than ABS (less warping and fumes)

Looks like many others have same opinion

I really HATE the design of the Fiberlogy rolls. They just waste space (often a problem in dry-filament-boxes), there are not many places to put the filament-end, and they offer no benefit at all.

It's aesthetically pleasing but very wasteful. In a grand survey of empty-spool weights, theirs came in second after i forget which spool that doesn't exist any longer, and it was quite distant to the rest. There isn't even a lip to attach your own filament end-clip. To the end of reducing spool waste, they do offer Masterspool-compatible refills, so that's something you can take them up on.

@@SianaGearz Honestly they should just change their design.

@@uhu4677 i think the best if eu could just make recycle point. I have used over 100 spools and thrown them to plastic waste. But they could easily be recycled, because: they are from 1 single material , their are made from PC or ABS, easy shape to crush, they can be used to make filament or be reused. But whole EU and US, dont give a fuck as long as all makers can get cheap filament granules from china.

For business purpose i use only FormFutura. Carboard spools on small to medium format spools very good filaments

@@lorenzobruschetta9919 okay? So what? That has nothing to do with the comment you replied to.

They wasnt happy and they explain weaker results with assumption that I used too much part cooling (30% instead 25%). But even if so, that may affect only layer adhesion, not impact and other tests.

@@MyTechFun yeah, 30% part cooling instead of 25%, like that would make any real difference 🤣🤣🤣 Thanks for replying

Yes, that was my conclusion too. I was expecting for much higher impact resistance :-(

@@MyTechFun They also have CPE HT but it is more expensive , 0,75kg spool and only in one color. They compare it to PC but easier to print. It is also cheaper than PC Blend by +/- 25 euros

@@AndrzejBrudniak The comparison to PC is probably bogus. I have CPE HT here. I print it at 290°C nozzle and 115°C bed (which is about the maximum of my MK3S+ ... higher might be even better). It warps a lot easier than PETG/PCTG. However I have yet to print PC to see, if that's even harder. The mechanical properties are VERY similar with one exception: When pulling it doesn't snap, but slowly yields. Didn't test the temperature resistence yet.

@@uhu4677 PC Blend warps but for small parts is ok with a little brim without enclosure

Thank You Jeffrey! I am glad that you liked the video.

For example, in CNC kitchen tests, PETG was below 5 and PCTG was below 25. What is wrong?

Technical notations are usualy for Charpy test. But, yes, in this case those 92 kJ/m2 sounds too much, even for Charpy.

The goal was similar: more impact strength.

PETG and PCTG is (basically) the same material. Check "Essentium Materials Guide: PCTG - Part 2". They explain, that when you start modifying PET with CHDM, it becomes PETG ... and if you add even more, it becomes PCTG. They make the distinction at 50%. But I doubt there's an absolute border. Who knows ... there might be PETG out there, which has actually more CHDM than the PCTG of Fiberlogy.

@@uhu4677 It needs a higher print temp and polymaker lists a petg print temp

it really isn't

But it is Hunglish, you should understand. If not, you can always follow my Hungarian channel ;-) www.youtube.com/@3dnyomtatas

He is much better than stefan. More honest and straightforward . Stefan uses science in a germanic way.

​@@viralvideo3739Emoji's cannot express how I was laughing 🤣😂😆Thank you.

@@viralvideo3739 What is the "Germanic way"? I'm curious as I've never heard that before.