I'm new here, what on earth is going on with the rear disc?

@@jay_stne quite a while ago PT got pissed with Shimano Icetech overheating and warping with no adequate alternative and decided to create his own rotor.

@@jay_stne as above. I’ll do a video on them soon but they’re heavy, reliable, stiff and quiet.

​@@PeakTorqueCan't wait. I hate my disc brakes. At least one of my bikes is always squealing, not breaking properly or having some other issue. I've had bikes working perfectly, then not ride them for two months and next thing you know the front/rear brake doesn't work. Please fix this shit.

​@@PeakTorque Looking forward to it! A disc brake rotor is not where one should be looking to save 50 grams if it comes at the cost of performance or reliability!

Exactly. Got to be a shit head influencer or brand ambassador. Otherwise you’ve a problem. Get F’d

Quite "Fondo" of it.....

@@diehardbikes I see what you did there 😊

That’s really good info! And probably the most likely cause.

Is there any tutorial for this hack ?

99.8%? You claimed over a year ago that their efficiency is 96% and you also said some people you tryst claimed 90-92%

@@channul4887You shouldn’t listen to a 5 year old

@@channul4887 seems Hambini is joking about his own theoretical assumptions (which, if true, would really be bad), the claims by Classified ("less than 1%"), and the reality check by our host which is pretty close to Classified claims, and far away from Hambini. Which is good - because I have one...

@@vozzen he should be six or seven by now

@8:56...I cannot believe they weren't able to send you a replacement button, even if a temporary one until a 'production fix' one was ready. The requirement is bog-simple technically, and absolute kudos to your hack. There are *many* industrial quality models even smaller than what you require available for parts wholesalers. Your requirement is well under an amp, (most likely a few milliamps) low voltage momentary contact normally open SPST push button switch. All they had to do is drop one in epoxy resin sitting in a body that presses into the end of your handlebars, or whatever attachment method they are using. Dammit, a door bell button will do it, albeit the life-cycle expectations are the limit. For high quality/reliability, aeronautic grade ones would be fine. I'm boggled by their ineptitude on this...

Hi there. A lot of PTT radios, even high end ones, still seem to use the 2.5mm stereo jack! In this case, the jack and connector is fine and is still in use, something in the button itself went awry. New one is here and working fine now. Hopefully a one off.

@@PeakTorque I can't remember if you stated "3.5mm" or "2.5" initially, in my lingo it's just "subminiature"...I'm old school. 2.5mm is used by some nowadays, it's the next 'standard' size down from 3.5, but rarely used. 3.5 is/was the standard, but being supplanted by USB in many cases now. USB, for all its irritations to someone like me, is a much tighter tolerance and quality control required to be sold under the standard "USB". There is no industry standard for phone jacks. Even the 3.5mm is almost 75 years old, and the 1/4" well over a hundred, being an 'improvement' over 'phone jacks' used for telephone exchanges. Whatever, even though your problem in this case was the switch, I can see further agro lurking in the wings with connections and components they're using. A high quality 'pressure sensitive' sealed assembly with no connections is indicated. In deference to them, however, their shortcoming is no worse than I see with a lot of 'bike electrics'. I find it ironic that in today's 'digital world' the basic electric components are so archaic in many cases. How 'passive' and totally sealed could that button and harness be? The lead seems to be set by the rechargeable lights one attaches to handlebars. And as torn as I am on stating this, they're all board mounted, not discrete components. Edit to Add: [ A high quality 'pressure sensitive' sealed assembly with no connections is indicated.] This might not even require a discrete button at all, but be a 'press strip' that could be aligned along one or both sides of the handlebars. And not being an actual metal on metal contact, but a dielectric one that changes the impedance enough to 'toggle' an input gate in the electronics in the hub. This is often done with 'FET's' and insertion power loss is infinitesimal by doing so.

Google: "Tapeswitch"

Google: "Tapeswitch" and/or "Sealed Touch Pad Switches"

Yall be ready for that hot damn

@@PeakTorque “All y’all” is the plural, at least in the American Southeast. Hehe.

@@ericpmoss get you some of that

@@PeakTorque Sorry for the late reply. I was busy working on a Gantt chart (est. lead time is 10 months) to prepare for your arrival in the 🇺🇸. I’m now confident that we, Americans, will be ready. 🤠

Tactic there was to not eat faeces of livestock. No joke, can make you seriously ill. This route went through a lot of grazing land and there was sh1t everywhere and it easily gets in the bottle nozzles.

Good call in fairness. Made that mistake before. Handy wat to cut weight, but not a good long term solution

​@@PeakTorquesome bottles come sold with shielded caps. Of all the gravel specific nonsense out there, that one actually makes sense.

I heard same !!!!!

While three of their riders were in the top-ten they all got beat by a guy without this techno miracle. Legs/lungs win races, tech just fills company bank accounts!

Charge the thru axle

it's totally operator but I routinely run into cross chaining issues on my 2x gravel. 10-51 casette has too big jumps for optimal cadence so there's still a market for this for now, until maybe 1x14? ;)

I am riding this hub now for 7 months, and didn't need to recharge. If, however, you need to charge, you have to remove the thru axle in order to get to the USB connector. Pretty much like Shimano Di2 - not the most elegant system, but works. I would prefer standardized water-tight magnetic connectors like seen in the video on the Powermeter (have the same)...

this is what you get when you don't use the aftermarket solution, but buy it with a bike. I have a Gravel bike with two GRX shifters/break levers - right for GRX815, left for Classifed.

I don't think so, because it means you have to transfer much larger forces through the chain. So you'd get faster chain, chainring and rear cog wear and higher friction losses in the chain. Also the gear switching mechanism has far more space and is easier to replace at the rear wheel. Also Bottom Bracket gearboxes don't work with the existing bottom-bracket standards, and it seems much harder to build the necessary mounting in bicycle frames made from pre-fabricated tubing.

@@imrevadasz1086 Nah, pinion gearboxes work perfectly fine. We just need another iteration to move from those expensive proprietary gearboxes and mounts.

@@imrevadasz1086 chains are designed and built for force, not speed. Abandoning puny multispeed chain and multicog cassette negates wear and efficiency issues. Besides, nothing forbids you from having a huge cog in the rear and adjust gearbox ratios accordingly. As per BB, you haven't seen middrive ebikes, have you? Plenty of options, couple of quite standartized. For retrofitting BSA looks fine: space currently occupied by external cups and chainrings suffice for a coupler towards a gearbox hanging underneath downtube. Again, like some existing ebike solutions.

@@Dustmadeout The Pinion gearbox is at least 10 times as expensive as the equivalent derailleur gearing. So even with more competition it's unlikely to be anywhere close to competitive on price.

@@imrevadasz1086 It is expensive because it's over engineered and kept proprietary. You seem to not understand the concept of further developing and standardization, as well as issues with forces in chains which was never a problem. Might as well ride a horse instead of those pesky steel pedal machines.

And the expensive options are still dirt cheap in the scheme of things for the rest of the system.

this would be great - I still hope Shimano will buy Classified, because it makes perfect sense to integrate this. One Up and down lever to operate the full system. As of now, you can't even see on a Garmin in which gear the hub is (well, you can, but then you have to drop the Di2 connection)...

@@Robeuten History paints a certain picture. Shimano develops in-house, pretty much exclusively. SRAM has bought Sachs, Avid, RockShox, Truvativ, Quarq, Zipp, etc...

You get this when you buy a bike with Classified hub pre-installed. For the aftermarket solution, you either have to live with the crappy button (not for me!), or fiddel it out yourself - but seems not to be too hard. There must be, though, different logics in place; I have it integrated into the left GRX brake lever/shifter, and with two switches, "big chain ring" is always big, and vice versa. Which I prefer, because Garmin is not capable of handling two gear systems connected and displayed, so you have to know which (virtual) chain ring you are into when using the single button.

Why cant you watch the video? It’s free.

Yes i could have however i had 2 days before the race to sort it because i was told it had been shipped and would receive it that week. So it left me very little time. A new button would have required soldering onto the original jack, which being away from my workshop i also didnt have a soldering iron!

The joke used-to-be: "Give an Englishman a piece of metal and he'll do something funny with it every time." Update might be: "Give an Aussie a 3D printer....."?

@@larryt.atcycleitalia5786 update: I AM NOT AUSTRALIAN! :)

Not officially but it could be hacked

Given all the things they have that they can do ! Why would you not offer it as an option ?

​@@colingregory7464because that would require licensing from Shimano, which Shimano may not be too keen to agree on with a competitor to their front derailleur.

So things like the Dropper Posts or Heed Unit controls are licensed ?

If he doesn't need to shift the hub, he's using a standard thru-axles instead, that appears to be his current solution.

⁠@@imrevadasz1086but then 5 months went by in the video so wondered if there was an update

Different connector.

I have a video on that. 44 speed.

@@PeakTorque I was already a fan (one engineer to another). Your personal reply is impressive, WOW! How cool is that? I'll seek out your 44 speed video. Tailwinds to ya.

@@PeakTorque Dear Alex, Please let me impose again. More specifically....I was wondering if the Classified cassette shifted well with a 2X setup?? Classified specifies only 1X application. How does the rear cassette shift in 2X???? Side note: I've tried Sram cassettes on shimano drivetrains with marginal success> yes the shift, but like shit compared to a shimano cassette. Sooooo: Does classified cassette shift like a shimano should??

@@carlcole9026 if shifts absolutely fine. The Classified hub doesnt know what you are running up front!

It's not cheap either....

THATS WHAT SHE SAID

Yeah I get the annoyance about Classified not sending a new button but come on, simple waterproof buttons aren't so rare that one needs to build that 3d printed contraption.

Tested it in the last classified video i did. Barely any measurable difference, almost within the error of the experiment

I normally do mine to 12Nm. So yeh, difficult to achieve here.

Not with this connector, no soldering iron, and 2 days to fix it, no. It was supposed to be on its way

Had 2 days to get it working in the end as i thought the replacement was on the way

My soldering skills (old school, 'point-to-point') are excellent, but that matters little if there's something else in the circuit breaking continuity, or even more aggravating, intermittently breaking it. One considers themselves lucky by fixing such issues with just a solder job. Even the process of handling a part and associated wiring and/or connections can often dissipate another break elsewhere. Best practice is to replace the entire item and associated wiring where possible.

To put the conundrum of 'soldering or not' above into a much easier to understand context: 'Inner tube, flat tire. Patch or replace if you have a spare'? Replace every time, as many of us over the decades have learned. If you're stuck, then patching it is....ggrrrrrr. And on that point, since I raised it, I swear the glue or the patch and/or tube formulation has changed over the years. Spare tube, never leave home without one.

@@stephensaines7100 and the problem with a stiff soldered joint is that itll break again just further along where there is no strain relief!

@@PeakTorque Indeed, and it's not just the solder itself that renders adjacent metal brittle, it's the heat required to do the soldering in the first place.

In two days notice, with no access to a soldering iron? Dont think so

@@PeakTorque I might have missed that part, sorry for that

The overlap would be incredible.

When i first got the gravel bike built up i was running 44 speed with 2x with Classified. Theres a video on that.

it is apparent that they changed the design - so, most likely, no "old" ones in stock, and the new ones not ready.

No. Its still a 0.7 drop ratio. So same as 50/34, 52/36 etc. however i have run it with 2x for 44 gears an a ridiculously low set of gears

it works with Di2 levers, when you buy it pre-installed from the factory (I have it within a Shimano GRX environment, totally smooth. It will never work with standard cassettes, because it needs the space for the gear box. Not an issue; been mine riding for 7 months in the mud, with absolutely no signs of wear. Yes, it's costly, but if you have to look for every penny, certainly, there are better solutions...

Please elaborate?

It is, of course!

Howd you come to that assumption? The hub is the good bit.