This man is a walking haynes manual. We appreciate the time you take to share your knowledge with us.

I just did a 350 engine rebuild, never did one before, allot of reading and took me about 6 months, but it ran and no leaks.

I agree about not trusting new parts. I've seen too many "Brand New" foreign made parts fail immediately, whereas the old ones were just fine and could be reused.

Hey come on! I'm from Bongosqueegie and all our piston rings are made and inspected by at least 13 year olds! Love these types of vids keep em coming lol

American V8's are the best. Years ago when I was 18, I rebuilt my 55 chevy 265 on my own with no prior experience. Had a machine shop do the valves, but I did the rest. Went together easy and worked great. Wish I still owned the car.

I like the way you get right to the point. No loud music or bullshit, or showing how loud your tools are.

That was an excellent episode of Uncle Tony's Garage. Not too long, not too short, informative, excellent attention to detail- this is a definite Goldilocks Episode- "Just Right" Thank you

A great way to start your evening: a 19+ minute Uncle Tony video!

My father's V8 318 will be a breeze to rebuild thanks to your efforts here. I cannot thank you enough for all this.

When I was on Crazy Deans pit crew 1968 - 1971, we used the dingle berry for cross hatching quick piston changes in the pits. I worked primarily on the trans team (he used two top loaders and a main shaft eplacement in three passes) but spent a fair amount of time on engines as well. This was before the advent of engine machinists in the pits.

A good friend of mine would start with a three blade type hone and finish with a dingleball for hash marks it worked good. And someone please send uncle tony a new drill cable that ones been through some shit!

I sure wish this series was available 7 years ago....would have saved me a lot of headaches

ROLL UP YOUR WINDOWS!!! Love this series.

I suggest a few minutes on using a tap, cleaning threads in through holes and blind holes, when to replace a bolt, and the importance of oiling the bolt threads and under the bolt head before torquing. I learned those last ones the hard way.

*GREAT INFO FOR THE NEWBIES and a GOOD REFRESHER FOR THE OVER THE HILL RACERS*

LOL still have my three-bladed Ridge reamers they are my antiques on my glass Shelf love your enthusiasm dude God bless signing off

Man I get stupid excited for these videos. It’s my prep to rebuild an engine for the first time

Good point about the grinder. some weld together an old truck driveshaft and drum brake to make a stand that can be rolled in and out of place. Another tip for when you're removing metal from a part...a rare earth magnet, placed in the path of the chips, will collect a few of them so you aren't chasing them down during cleaning. If you're grinding near a water passage (let's say), put some shaving cream in--it can catch the particles and then get flushed out easily. Bearings: there's a lot of debate over sanding them versus not. For most things in life, a safe rule is..."when it doubt, throw it out". The dollars you spend now could be dollars you don't spend at the side of the road. But if you've done a ton of engines, you can make a good judgement call. Ridge at the top of the cylinder: its true until you clamp a head on it--that's why a torque plate is used in boring, to replicate the distortion. And if you're running an aluminum block, the distortion gets so bad a good machinist wants the main caps, timing chain cover, bell housing, even the starter on for some designs. Some blocks, like Pontiacs, screw the heads not into the deck surface, but the walls of the block itself, and so some will skip a torque plate in those builds. Of course, there are those who also want to run coolant thru the block, get it up to heat so its at full expansion--but cutting away metal is also causing a heating issue in the block. When you use gasoline, be in a well-ventilated area--there's a reason why Pintos and side saddle GM trucks had an issue :) For those who are finicky, a torque plate should also be applied to the head when doing major surgery like new hardened valve seats. Dealing with an obscure engine with no torque plate? fake it with a stack of washers or a wrist pin to replace the height of the torque plate, and then torque it to spec around the cylinder you're operating on. Great when you're messing with the rings, and excellent point about the light gap around the ring. when some install a piston, they'll hook up a fish scale to the large end of the rod to test how many pounds of pull it takes to move that piston to BDC.

Uncle Tony word of the day: gack

Uncle Tony, you are great and your videos are helping me to rebuild my 6.1 Hemi. Thank you for the videos and keep it up.

Hey Tony, i bought a LA360 over the winter and I tore it down this afternoon just to follow along with your "Perfect Daily Driver" series. This is my first build and I just wanted to say thanks for all your videos and sharing the knowledge, your the best man.

Great information and presentation Uncle Tony. Thanks for sharing your highly valuable talent and information. Well done.

That drills paid for itself 500 times...love the old tools tony👌

I've been around a long time, and never heard half the stuff on this channel. Thing is it always makes sense and the reasoning is explained. Love it

Always good to see you Tony, helps spend the quarantine time.

Great video! Lots of information there to take in. That's a video to save and watch more than once to pick up on the subtle info. Thank you again.

Here's a tip from the port city kid ( me)eastcoast to ya.my favorite tool is a electric leaf blower I use mine to blow everything out from gas lines filters aircleaners to the whole garage ECT.leaving the door open all kinds of dirt dust will blow in a at the end of the day I blow it all back out. I took all kinds of odds a ends attachments a made them fit on the blower.( simple clean easy cheap a threw my vac in the corner.even blow the vehicles off inside a out before entering garage.( try it you'll like it.!

All good tips no doubt about that. Literally everything you do and use in the shop is similar to the methods and techniques i was shown and use today. Great work Tony keep it up🖒

Thanks for the 19 minutes of class and also the tips.....uncle tony 👍

If there's enough ridge where you have to use a ridge reamer to get the Piston out than it absolutely has to be bored out!

Uncle Tony great info in this video..espeacially the part about cleaning the cylinders and using a ring to check for trueness in the cylinders..you are the definition of Old School...thanks for the info

Looking forward to all the engine builds.

Just because it is a NEW part doesn't mean it is proven. Good video, i'm wanting to build my son a duster on a budget, OD 4 speed and roller 318 or 360. Thanks for the video!

Great information today.. I hope Kathy is putting all this in a book for us old people.

I don't know whether to share this with my peers or not. They might begin to hate you Uncle Tony, like they hate on me. Many of them are of the "Once you pull it down, you MUST replace every conceivable component, rebore, grind the crank, deck the block, all after sonic testing it" ilk, even in a daily shopper. I've been doing it this way nearly, but not quite as long as you Unc, and nowhere near as frequently, but with no failures. I'm probably just a bit more cautious, in that I will replace rings and rod bearings every build, regardless. Keep up the great videos my friend, you have the respect of many.

Greetings from Timor Leste, thank you for your time and effort to share your knowledge on mechanical engine.

Just love the way he uses his gasoline squirter bottle for every thing , starting cars , checking for manifold and carb leaks now he’s using it as a honing lubricant WAY TO GO Keep it up Tony

I sure didn't have enough time to learn from this professor. LQ4 block, bent rods from (I'm guessing hydrolock), work truck and a $900 budget. Now a misfire from the 2 damaged cylinders. I wouldn't been able to bore anyway. The machine shops were backed up.😔 I needed to get back to work.

Always valuable content in your videos. I’m gonna try and find some new old stock for my build.

Hey Tony i come from East Bongo Squigee!! ha ha That was a new one for me, thanks for the video.

Uncle Tony I just subscribed to your channel I like your old school ways . I'm building a daily driver motor for my jeep.but it's a 4.3 v6 no balance shaft . Thanks for all you do. ED in west virginia. 👍

One of the best UTG videos...lots of great info here

Thanks Tony, and Kathy...even after a hard day it makes me smile to see something from you all. However, with the ridge-reamer...yep, I grew up with flat heads. The original block from Lucille had a major ridge. (The 1967 block needed to be bored over 0.030" over to "almost" be true.) It is always great to hear what I learned from my Father about building engines on a budget. Kind of a lost art with all of the hype on "you gotta have it" promoted in the media. Thanks again. All the Best from Germany.

Exceptionally good show Uncle Tony.seen too many so called mechanics that DON’T know how to hone properly. I could tell your cylinders will have proper crosshatch and great ring seating.

Love your videos. Helps me get through this rough time. So glad that you are posting these

NPR, hastings, total seal, and Mahle all make good piston rings. Also for main/rod bearings I only use King brand or ACL.

Thanks Tone excellent what you showed us today 👍

Thanks for today’s lesson. You’re a great teacher!

I'm late getting to these videos sometimes but I make sure not to miss one, I can't think of one time I've disagreed with something uncle Tony has said. Great information, glad he's a Mopar guy because that's at the least of my engine and transmission knowledge.

That's a really great idea on the snake tray mounted bench grinder Tony.

Another known trick when I was a kid we used to take freeze out plugs and put gasket sealer on the back of them to make them last longer cuz we didn't have brass freeze out plugs

That glaze breaker hone you use is ok but I prefer a more rigid unit like a Lisle. The glaze breaker style has a habit of following the contour of the bore, the irregularities that is. Freeze plugs, I always remove them. 1) they may be rusted nearly through & show no sigh of leakage. 2) Removal will allow you to thoroughly clean the coolant passage inside the block. There is usually a bunch of crud hiding at the bottom of the water jacket. MoPar truck blocks are made of high nickel iron and are very rigid & durable, you ain't gonna distort the freeze plug bores. Never had a leak problem after replacing them.

Thank you Tony wow you still the engine whisperer. Man your good teach school. Your the man.

Good info and good delivery. Thank you for sharing.

A few other helpful tips, if you do replace the cam bearings, use an installation tool, don't try to use anything else. Cam bearings are typically numbered for the position they go in with the front one being no. 1. Make sure you align the oil holes on the bearings with the passages, a puff from an air hose through the oil passage will help verify it didn't slip as you installed it. Always, always, always trial fit your camshaft to make sure it goes all the way in before you assemble anything else. I've seen the crush on the I.D. enough to keep the cam from going in. If you've already assembled the bottom end, you have to take it all back apart to fix that bearing.

That was a GREAT one Uncle Tony everything said made a Lot of Sence ( not so Common ) the newest engines with there Low tension rings 2 save gas & / use more oil 2 me N.G. Thank You so very Much 4 the Info Your The Best !

This Series is super helpful Boss.. Thanks Always Uncle Tony and Auntie Kathy.. Oi oi oi

Glad to hear you mention a FE !

This all really good "back to basics". Well done.

I mount my grinders on wheeled carts just for that reason, you can blow threw that bearing to make sure its clear rather then pull it out. Haven't heard that thumb nail gauge thing in 40 years, THUMBS UP!

Good stuff 👍🏼. Loving this series.

Great work BROTHER man this is one of the best mechanical channels on the internet brilliant job . Speaking of new parts I own a 73 model F100 I brought an aftermarket ignition switch that completely fell apart after 3 days of use the old one was fine for all those years until somebody tried stealing the vehicle. From Australia AMERICAN part's are better quality.

This is how weekend budget racers built them 20+ years ago. I built a 440 in the same manner. Good advice Tony.

Love your videos UT. I just discovered you recently, but you make a lot of sense! Great work!

Much of the material you are presenting here can be used on "small engiine service". Good info. 👍

👍🏻 always a wealth of knowledge tony ! Thanks

Thank you for the information you shared, very helpful video!

Great info Tony. I just passed this on to a young youtuber to assist him in a sb ford budget rebuild. 👍

Gold precious tips Uncle. Thanks.

thanku tony once again u have helped the masses

I love the snack tray. I have a half dozen and use them for everything. They make great portable work tables. They hold your tools while working, paint cans while painting or whatever. A couple make usable saw horses. And they’re only about $8.00 at Walmart.

Uncle Tony’s tip of the day 👊🏼⛽️

Good chat Tony...I like building my own engines because I can spend as much time as I like fiddling with them as opposed to a customer who wants his ASAP.

Another great video 👍👍

I commented recently on the Sunday Night Live about this motor but I'm rebuilding a 327 with my father, it's truthfully my first real motor The motor had been professionally machined and honed however it'd also sat for quite a few years. We ran a dingleball/berry hone through the bores each VERY briefly just to assure that everything was nice and fresh and that's it. I think in total it was maybe one, two passes each cylinder. Anything more we'd have gotten a true fixed stone hone out to fix

We always use diesel as a cutting fluid and it seems to work great, it also smells the best

The block is the foundation of all of it so have to make sure it is all good to start with.

Thumbs up! Always great info.

Thank you uncle Tony,hope you dont mind me using your knowledge on old BMW inline sixes from the 70's n 80's

I been watching KZfaq videos of engine builders for 10 years and your the only one that I actually have learned so much from in the last 2 days of finding your channel thanks so much very educational.

Fantastic episode

That's THE BEST rundown ever given on KZfaq! You're in your element Tony, you just covered most every detail I can think of from the perspective of a home rebuild. I know you have more to cover on this particular block but this was pure gold. AAA+++!

Don't matter the make .. just take your time and pay attention and make everything as clean as possible. And just watch uncle Tony's garage.. u will be fine.

another awesome video tony for working at home not like these other channels which claim to be diy'ers then throw brand new everything at the motor

Yeah I look for new old stock also. Thanks Uncle Tony

We were talkin word-for-word in the freezer plug they also made engine block heaters with the freeze out plug so when you put it in a head engine block heater in it and they did that on a gasoline engine as well as a diesel

Even sending the block to a machine shop, there's still a ton of labor that ends up going into the block, if nothing else just in cleaning. I feel bad for people who assume an engine comes back clean from the machine shop...

RE: Ridge reamers... At least as of 1999 Ford was still putting a step in the engine disassembly portion of the factory service manual to run a ridge reamer on each cylinder before trying to remove the piston. I recently disassembled a 4.0l v6 from a 1999 Ford Ranger, heavily used, no ridge at the top of any cylinder at all, so I wondered what they were going on about. I had no problems removing the pistons from that engine. But, suffice to say that people are still using them at least in part because the manufacturers are still making a recommendation to do so. Not that I believe a whole lot of things that the manufacturers say.

Good video uncle Tony good video as usual you have given me a flashback we used to check number one cylinder at the front of the motor for lip because that always had the worst lip and I was told the reason for that is it runs the coldest because it’s got the water pump bolted right opposite on the other side and runs the coldest when I was doing DIY stuff even if we didn’t re-bore The cylinder we did remove the lip with a special tool and then honed em and they told me the reason for that is that even though we re-using the same pistons we’ve got new bearings on the bottom and everything is been taken apart and when you thrash it a bit the piston travel can be a few thousandth more than it used to be on account of things stretching a touch and there’s a theoretical risk it smashes the ring landing...... Don’t know if it’s true or not that’s what they taught us

How you doing my man Tony a boon to shop for over 45 years now not working anymore due to bad Health however hundreds and hundreds and hundreds of Motors in cars I pulled tricks off that nobody could believe but everything he said it's pretty damn accurate and I just want to see success for you I subscribed and I want to see everybody listen to you because pretty spot-on have a great day I think you're a good good Channel that's all I got to say have-a-nice-day Tony

Excellent lesson..

Another great video

On the cam bearings, how do you check to see if they’re all in alignment and level? Another way to check the bore is to take a compression ring, square it in the bore just beneath the ridge and measure it. Then run the piston all the way to the bottom of the bore, where there is no wear and measure the gap again. This will tell you how much the bore is tapered. Anymore than 0.008” needs to be bored. Anything less may not need to be bored depending the surface of the bore and if there are any gouges or deep scratches it will need to be bored. 5he dingle ball hone is for breaking the glaze in the cylinder only! It will give you the cross hatch pattern you want to help the rings seat. If there is still a cross hatch pattern in the bore and there isn’t enough taper to require boring you won’t need the glaze breaker. If you take you block to a machine shop that has a Sunnen CK10 powerhone or a newer model, that machine will give you the crosshatch you need. There is no need to use a dingle ball hone or glaze breaker in that block. If your block needs to be bored, pay the extra to have it power hones with a torque plate. The will draw the block together just like you had a head on it so it will be square when you volt on the head.

very useful information great video.

The core plug you want to replace no matter how it looks...the one that will end up hiding behind the starter. Once everything is installed and in the car, finding it leaks is a real PITA. Also plugs in the back of the block--if you have a clutch, you don't want a leak.

Uncle tony you see that yellow duster with the 225 with the blower that hing sounded awesom I’m sure you saw it on you tube you would never know that was a 6 cylinder

One thing not mentioned is after cleaning, give it a good visual inspection for possible cracks in the web area.

Good down to earth information

We went through 3 custom cams because of lifter issues a yr or 2 ago finally bought some from Howards and they where fine but the other 3 manufacturers likely sourced from the same chinesium plant. The first cam lasted 1 race the second failed during breaking and the third made 2 laps all where caused by bad (soft) lifters

that is a great idea. every time i use mine i make a mess of my work bench