This! My 65 IHC has been nothing but reliable but with the ignitor! It was set up right when I bought it and I followed that when I resealed the engine and she's been great!

I'm not "hell bent" but I bought the ignitor 2 because I heard the 3 doesn't like tachs. But still....the pertronix flame thrower 2 coil calls for 12v. So I would think both the module and the coil need to be on the full 12v. 🤷‍♂️

Used one years ago on a BMW 2002. Followed the instructions put 50k on the car in a couple years before selling it and never had an issue. Didn't know they had a bad rep until I saw this video.

Greetings, Luke! I've watched your channel for a while now. It's my go to for improving my Ford FE education. I've had my 55 f100 for 38 years. Was a kid when I bought it and it was junk. In 05 I put a fresh (1975) 360 and c6 in it along with a complete Painless wiring kit using the Duraspark setup and original distributor. To my surprise, it started right up. A new Holley carb last year was a vast improvement but revealed the failing distributor. It's done. After watching your videos, I recently sprung for a Pertronix unit with the Ignitor 1, a new pertronix coil, and eliminated all things Duraspark. Got 12 volt plus at the B+ coil terminal. Assuming the new unit is okay, It will NOT run. I think it reluctantly fires here and there enough to burn the starting fluid. I've studied my Painless paperwork and watched videos. I've got the balancer at TDC, both Number one Valves closed, and a screwdriver says the piston is up. I have a tdc whistle and a spark tester on order. As best I can tell, the various ohm readings are in range. I have never posted a message before anytime, anywhere. Talk to me, Luke!

Ford Duraspark+quality module>Pertronix. End of story

.....and that's just a simple water pump...... don't even get me started on a carburetor kit, or aftermarket kit swaps..... torque sequences (oh yeah its from the center out) nonsense.

Good primer on the petronix ignition .As always, read the instructions before installing anything. Will be installing one on my stock 292 Y-block. Can't afford to go with the Hi-Tech distributor, however.

@@jeromebreeding3302 Iron Trap Garage installed one on a Y block in a '39 Ford and retained the stock distributor, they have a video about it, might wanna check it out... kzfaq.info/get/bejne/ocCSrJB6xN67Yn0.html

My 89' XF Ford falcon ute (the book says they sold until 88') The last of these rigs I have (Ozzie ute).......in 89' they just chucked on whatever they had left on the shelves so it is kinda hit and miss in my case, got the wrong clutch cable for instance. I guess my rig is a bit of a bitsa as we say. hehe.

The instructions are garbage and most of the time they aren't even correct to your application.

2 years later im the same as you

Its just like the ICVR Ford used in the 60s up through the 80s, it takes 12v in but pulses the 12v at such a rate you see 5V at the sensors. How ever if you are using a multimeter or a test light you should be able to see the pulsing up to 5V or 6V. It wouldnt be pulsing so fast it would be showing a steady 12V. It is how I test Fords sensor circuits, if a gauge isnt working I use a test light which I have one with a digital read out and it will pulse on and off going from off to 5V then off again. You should see the same thing in the resistor wire if it is a pulsing circuit. As far as using the OE coil, all of my Ignitor II`s are running OE coils that has to have an external ballast resistor and I run it with them. I just connect my Ignitor II to the 12V side of the ballast resistor and make my negative connection to the negative side of the coil. I honestly dont believe you are losing enough spark to notice a difference in performance between running a external ballast resistor OE coil vs a recommended petronix coil especially if you are dealing with a stock engine. If you are running a hotrod then the last thing you should be doing is running a points distributor with a petronix points elimination kit over a dedicated electronic ignition system. The Petronix I always felt was designed for the collector car hobby for people that were restoring cars and wanted them to look original but perform better than original as well as remove the whole adjustment of points. People that want to go fast or make power wont be concerned about keeping a OE distributor and stuffing modern guts inside.

As an Electronics Engineer, I've learned very well that you do NOT cut it cheap on test equipment. They are your eyes! I've also watched co-workers learn and re-learn this lesson very painfully.

@@godfreypoon5148 so right, you don't want to go cheap on your best friend.

Been using fluke meters for over 35 years. Its the standard for Industrial Technicians.

Ditto

Journeyman Electrician, Fluke or bust.

Plenty of those lights on Fokker F27 aircraft too.

test lights don't tell the full story like analog or digital multi-meters

@@watup110875 that depends very much on the application

​@@tc5963 very true

They fail cause they are crap

Thanks Shawn, you as well

Those are very good points you make

Yes I know with Holley sniper you must wire the ecu power wire or I think a pink wire on the wiring diagram to ignition power but also power while cranking. Can be a little tricky to find.

If using the Ignitor II you wouldnt have to worry about having the key on without the engine running. Only the Ignitor had the issue burning up with the key being left on, with the Ignitor II they put a sensor in the module that shuts the module down before damage if its wired improperly or if the key is left on. So honestly there is no reason to buy a Ignitor, you should be buying the Ignitor II or III unless the Ignitor is the only one for your application. For my applications the Ignitor II was the only one I could use in both cases.

I’m thinking of doing something rather charitable with hat donations - this trailer park boy doesn’t need much in life. Thanks for snagging a couple

BTW I've had a Pertronix conversion on an old tractor for almost 3 years without issues. Will get an Ignitor 3 for my 79 460 project and compare how I like it to my two Progression units on my small blocks.

updates :P

That right there is the reason I do this youtube thing, glad I could help out

Don’t worry, each one is dialed and can handle it just fine 🙂

Back when, my pop said, "boy you have two speeds, STOP & WIDE OPEN". 50+ years later, I'm happy to say, both are still fine.

that's where continuity buzzers is perfect with the battery disconnected

Ditch the worthless Pertronix and use a Ford Duraspark with a shortened resistance wire and a high quality module. Ive always gotten a nice bright blue spark from the coil that often is capable of arcing over one inch, the same can't be said for any Pertronix unit I've thrown into the scrap pile.

Hey Thunderhead, just found your channel, may cool videos, I have an '83 G20 van myself, sitting right now, but ran when parked :). Maybe you should put this in the description, or pin it. From experience, I suspect there are only one or two circuits like this. IIRC you removed the resistor and swapped the coil.

@@donreinke5863 Oh sure like Ford's gonna give you a performance ignition system?? NO NO AND NO!! Follow this mans advice and you'll wonder why you stuck with OEM junk ignitions.

@@extremedrivr I follow no ones advice. Having had years of personal experience with both, I ABSOLUTELY know which system produces the most spark energy. The Ford Duraspark system in its stock form is superior to Pertronix, and when the primary resistance wire is shortened, FAR exceeds it. 1inch+ bright blue spark>weak half inch yellow spark. Only in the first 4 years of its use, before the module circuitry was redesigned was the Duraspark troublesome. The early modules (which had hot open circuit issues) are all long extinct. I converted from points and modified my first Duraspark system in 1980, likely before you were even whelped. I will put my 50 years of experience in automotive repair and modification against your obviously limited knowledge any and EVERY day.

you would think if it wasn't getting 12 volts from the start, that it would of never ran good enough to thinks everything was ok.

Man, I am super looking forward to seeing you on power tour 👌

@@ThunderHead289 when is the power tour ? Ive been thinking about going, ive got my 79 pinto that I'm almost done with as far as the 347 5 speed swap and stuff like this is what I built it for so that I can take it on power tour, car shows and what knot, even though its far from being a show car. Plus I know that u will be super excited to see me as well on power tour 🤣😂( probably not )

Lol...... can't count how any times I've seen smoked out wiring connected to the hot side of those old stick fuses.

@@79beans347 dude I bet that car is a rocket ship. It’s late August! I’d love to see the car!

@@ThunderHead289 sweet, yeah man id like to show it to you and ill probably go so ill get in touch with you as it gets closer and possibly meet up with you out there and show it to you and maybe be a shadow so that you can show me the ins and outs of the power tour and to have someone to chat with here and there because it will probably be just me so it would be cool to follow someone who i at least know of around for the trip

The will last a little while at low voltage, but amps increase when voltage drops, which amps are where the heat comes from and the wiring isn’t designed to handle that amp load - fries the module eventually. Pertronix 1 and 2 still need the ballast to the coil, while the module red lead itself needs a keyed 12 volts. A lot of folks just dork up the 12v to the module part - eventually causing a failure

@@ThunderHead289 absolutely! The Pertronix instructions aren’t worded super clearly, so a novice could easily screw that up!

No problem - they don't pay me to say anything about them. Just genuinely good products that when wired correctly, last forever. I've had one of mine for over 10 years.

@ThunderHead289 that's awesome. I had one in my 69 F100 and loved it. Install it and forget about it. I put one in Edna 3 years ago when I converted her from 6 to 12 volts. Never had a problem till last week but was happy to swap it with another.

kzfaq.info/get/bejne/ptKbbLpl1L7MYps.html

I wired mine correctly and went thru 3 of them! That's too many tow truck rides home! In my experience, Pertronix stuff lasts till just past the warranty! I think they went to Taiwan, and now, it's crap!!!

Me too. Half killed me making it happen over the last 5 years, but worth it.

Accel equipment us junk. Bought an Accel distributor for a Ford Cleveland. It failed while still under warrantee, so I shipped back to be fixed. When I got it back, it was deader than a doorknob.When I sent it back again, I requested a dual pont, which worked OK.

I having a little trouble with mine, it keeps overheating the round coil. I gotta get a multimeter and check it out. I did try a ballast resistor but it didn't do any good I didn't install it on the red power wire that goes to the dizzy, maybe that's where I should have put it

@@johndowe7003 what are you installing it on? gonna sound weird, but this problem can be in weird places (bad ignition switch, bad dimmer switch, bad headlight switch, bad Amp gauge, etc etc etc). Also, you might wanna look into a new coil. If it's been "cooked" a few times, it's probably done now. Esp if there is any oil around it. Easy check is to turn the key off, and check it at the coil. If you still have juice going to it, find where it's coming from before you sacrifice another coil. Hope that helps.

@@BareRoseGarage it's on a tractor 8n

@@johndowe7003, Are you using the OE coil? If so do you have the ballast resistor still cause OE coils on something like that have external resistors. When I did the install on my '58 Ford 641 Workmaster it has an external ballast resistor in line between the ignition wire and the coil to drop the voltage down. The new coil I bought since I didnt know how old the one I had was and plus it was spraypainted red by who ever doctored the tractor up before I got it, but the replacement coil states on it "Use External Ballast Resistor". So I kept my ballast resistor and used one of those brass add a terminal spades and connected it on the 12V battery side of the ballast resistor then connected the ignition wire to one male spade and connected the Ignitor II red power lead to the other spade to get 12V. I then made my negative connection to the negative on the coil and kept the wire from the ballast resistor to the positive on the coil the same. Hooked up this way I never had a coil over heat on this tractor so I suspect you may have a coil that requires a external ballast resistor or you are trying to use a 6V coil on a 12V system without a ballast resistor and over driving the coil at 12V.

@@Milner62 im using a 12volt flamethrower coil 12v, ei ignition on a front mount 8n. the coil i have has 3.5ohm internal resistance. i tried hooking up a 3ohm ceramic resistor to the system and it still does the same thing, im kinda stumped at this point. tractor runs amazing until it hits 200f then it shuts down no spark. cools down then then turns back on

Keep a set of points in your glove box to get you home just incase.

@@boss351gt6 yeah that's a good idea

Oh you are completely fine then my friend🙂

Absolutely

You are talking about the original Ignitor they burned up leaving the key on without the engine running and in some instances burned up with the engine running. Thankfully Petronix fixed that burning up issue in the Ignitor II.

I put a Pertronix kit on the old 2N I bought a month and a half ago. Everything electrical in the tractor, I stripped out myself, and redid with new components, and per the Ford manual. Modified the wiring per the Pertronix instructions. Met their minimums for wire gauge, resistance, spark plug wires, the whole nine. The module lasted an hour. The longest the key was left on was 30 seconds for engine start. I have a Dyna electronic ignition on my Kawasaki motorcycle that I wired up a few years back, absolutely no issues with that one. Currently waiting on Pertronix to get to my ticket to see what can be done

@@OldMotorcycleAdventures I feel ya, I got 3 Ford Pintos. 2 1972s and 1 73 all on points, easy peesy

Folks, don't forget that Ford made a good electronic ignition. Pared with their big cap, and 8mil. ignition wires, it's easy to swap in, using factory parts.