That sir is a great idea!! Never thought of that! Pheas

T-Rex Jaw Pliers and a sock to prevent scratching got mine open XD

Nowadays they include it in the box. the castle. the flash. and flathead for spring. in a 4X1" form factor. It's pretty nice. Needed added leverage for firs unlocking of castle though.

but what type of mosfet ?

@@utakolepackdeau7786 For example a Perun AB++ or a Gate Warfet. It can't take optical mosfets due to the offspec trigger assembly.

it uses a steel inner barrel 6.01, why need to change it? i though it was a good thing about this gun

@@niltonbatistajunior9731 they are badly treated and rust.

damn.. it was too good to be true btw 😅 wich one is better, this gun or a aps phantom mk8?

just asking because i have the 416, does the disassembly change significantly in order to take into account the ambidextrous selector and the different bolt release? i'll have to do some maintenance on mine some time soon and i wanted to be prepared

and another question, a bit off topic, would you able to change out the gearbox for a more "standard" one? not planning to do it but the fact that you can't put in a mosfet made me think about it

@@enricopravato6677 The ambidextrous fire selector is driven via a rod that goes through the gearbox to the second selector mount and the selector switch screws to it, the bolt release come under the gearbox casing just above the mag-release and feeds into a hole in the press down bolt release button/switch soo when either side is depressed the whole bolt release mechanism moves as one. Once installed with the gearbox, if you look up through the mag well you can see it running under the gearbox. You'll need t remove the bolt release first, mag release is easier to remove once its out. Tap the pin holding the bolt release on the left hand side of the gearbox/lower receiver first. Depress the bolt release on the right hand side of the receiver and pull the left hand side bolt release - which has the arm that connects it to the right hand side, out first. You can get the other part of the bolt release out after that. Mag release , press the button on right hand side of receiver in all the way and unscrew the release from the left hand side until it comes all the way out. Watch the tension spring that puts tension on the release to allow it to spring in an out. After that (and the body and trigger pins are removed) you can wiggle the gearbox out of the receiver,. When you replace the gearbox in the receiver watch the anti-reversal release down where the pistol grip screws to the gearbox has fitted through, catches up easily against the receiver unless you manually press it to feed through the pistol grip aperture in lower receiver. This is a good visual resource on stripping the Arcturus HK416 (GR16 Mod 5) wmasg.com/en/articles/view/9889

Should be fine but it would be wise to get an aluminum spring guide and cylinder to prevent the extra power snapping them. It's very unlikely that such a subtle increase would damage the parts but the last thing you wanna hear in the middle of a game is that *snap* sound plus it gives you the option to go higher if you find a field that allows it. It's 50/50 to replace the cylinder nozzle to something aluminum like a Lonex or Prometheus. This adds extra weight to the cylinder but increases durability. Honestly the stock one has great seal and works well.

Hello! It should just accept another generic arisoft v2 with no issues. Pheas

Hello! That is a touch call, for me I think I would have to go with the M904 just because the internals are a little more "on spec" for other parts to go in easily, the mosfet is oustanding and will make a difference for you in the long run with those gears and motor upgrades. The arcturus is sold though and would make a good set up, but the gearbox (particularly the trigger block is off spec) Pheas

Hiya... I would have thought you might / should get away with being swapping the selector plates over and you should be good to go ... I think. Pheas

You could replace the outer barrel with a shorter one, cant remmeber if its actually a two piece barrel, in which case, its even easier to put a shorter piece on to shorten the outer. Pheas

Hello! If its heating up... It could be because of resistance in wiring, if it's recently only just started heating up, then it could be damaged trigger contacts... Would be worth having a tech look at it first to see if they can ID any issues. If you want the motor anyways... A high tpa motor will deal with any strength of spring and shouldn't heat up too much, unless you have a MOSFET with full on active breaking. Pheas

Hello! In theory any version 2 gearbox should be compatible and fit... but I haven't tried to fit anything different in one before. I would expect that a generic CYMA or other brand gearbox should fit nicely enough though. Sorry I can't be more help! Pheas

T-Rex jaw pliers and a sock to prevent scratching. Works flawlessly every time.

@@TremendousYeti 👍

Have you found out? Is it milspec?

Hello! This one came to me as part of an order well before Xmas so avoided all the brexit issues. Taiwan Gun was quick at getting it out to me. Pheas

Hiya. Not sure where you are in the world but in the UK the pound land stores often do small Allen / hex head keys or general hardware stores. Ideally Amazon do "precision screwdriver" sets with a variety of bits they are cheap and very very useful. Pheas

Hello! unfortunatley not, you would have to replace the shell with another one that isnt for a microswitch... that said, if you removed it, you might, MIGHT, be able to fit an optical one that replaces the trigger block, you can always solder a mosfet like the AB++ on to the switch and get some of the features of a full mosfet. Pheas

They could fit a MOSFET I believe... But it can't be an optical one without serious modification to the shell of the gearbox. It would need to be a wired in MOSFET. Pheas

Hello! It just came off, it might be easier with an armourers wrench to lock into the sections in the stock ring to loosen it off. It needed a fair amount of force to get it going, but once it started it flew off. good luck with it. Pheas

Hello! if the motor is getting hot, then its working hard to turn over the spring, you might need a higher TPA (high torque) motor to pull it more effeciently with less heat. You might also need to look at the shimming as if the shimming is too tight then the gears are hard to move, which the spring will add to, putting the motor under stress. Pheas

Hiya. I usually find a torx 6 bit does the job for me with those grub screws in the muzzle. Pheas

I have the bit set. But it don't work? It seems mines have a circle round nut? Thinking about drilling it?

Hiya. You will need to open up the gearbox to fit an aster and the quantum trigger. Most of what you see in the video is needed to get the gearbox out and open. Pheas

Hello! I didn't, but I can add it to the list to get, historically I haven't had much luck with APS in general and find them a bit... lacking in quality internally and break often, but I am willing to get things in if it is what people want. Pheas

@@PheasAirsoft thank you for listening to your fans and viewers

@@kyllianbaudelet4794 Its important I do and keep listening, I am doing this for you guys and ok, sometimes I like to do something just for me (Scorpion Mod. D) but I wouldnt be where I am without you guys, so need to keep the fans happy ha ha. Thanks for the suggestion. Pheas

Hello! It takes sticks in the stock tube. Pheas

I do not unfortunatley. You will need to remove the nuts at the base of the handguard where it attaches to the body, the whole thing should slide off then. Then the barrel nut can be removed if you are also swapping that out. Pheas

@@PheasAirsoft Worked out great. Thank you!

I honestly am not sure, if the HPA engines require the traditional (TM style) trigger block, then this wont take an hpa engine with the current gearbox shell. But you can swap it out for another shell. Pheas

Hello. Handguards usually come with their own barrel nut, so the stock one will come off leaving the standard sized thread underneath. Then you can fit your new handguard with no issue. Pheas

@@PheasAirsoft thanks for the reply! My AR-08 finally came in! I’m just having trouble taking the hand guard off. 🤔 I loosened the two screws on the 6 o’clock position but it’s on super tight! Am I missing something? 🤔 it also has two sets of weird blocks that the screws go into, and I can't remove it for the life of me! (AR-08 version)

@@Callsign_Neuro Could be a grub screw somewhere that needs loosening off too, or just give it a good tug as they have tight tolerances so everything is snug together. Pheas

@@PheasAirsoft haven't found any grub screw or anything. Tried using a heat gun on the barrel nut section cause my local tech said they might've glued it. I had no luck today. Might just have my local tech handle it so I don't risk destroying it trying to figure it out myself. When I first brought it to my local shop, the tech and I even tried both pulling it in two different directions like a game of tug o war. No luck even then. So, gonna have him handle it.

@@Callsign_Neuro Hmm, how odd. Good luck to him to getting it off for you!! Pheas

same ☹️

Hi. From what I can remember I think there is a grub screw and a side pin to punch out to remove the gas block. Pheas

Hello! Did you completely remove them from the handguard? I would try pulling on it once they are moved, there could be some glue in there that might be causing the issue. Pheas

Hello! I believe the stock factory one is an m120 rated spring. Its around 400fps. Pheas

Hello! Sorry for the late reply, been on holiday and then taken ages to catch up! Yes TG do ship to USA now! Pheas

Hello! They are 14mm Negative threads. Pheas

Hello! Sorry to hear that. I am guessing the cur off lever requires their own brand of gears, so I would look to replace it with an aftermarket generic (good) one, something like the ASG ultimate cut off or similar to see if that helps / fixes it. Pheas

Hello! For the upper, to add an outer barrel, it should be airsoft standard ones! Pheas