Thanks, and yah that orange tree have a hard life during winter here. It's a bit more happy now 🙂

Thanks Jan, ah although it brings something essentially out of order to working condition its not to compare with a proffesionell rebuild. The best thing is that from here most every one mechanically inclined can do the rest.

​@@henrikandren6967 would scrapping be the next step ???

Please do 😀

Thanks for your kind words and you're spot on regarding cleaning and lubrication. I sent along some extra oilers to be installed.

Bagai mana cara memesan nya dan tau harganya

Thanks! 🙂

Thanks, there's a few more in the pipeline 🙂

Thanks, there's more coming 🙂

Thanks! 😊

Thank you 😊

Thank you sir!

Thanks!

This is google translate both ways so bare with me... Ja und nein... Die Vorher-Messung wie am 2:21min sind nur indikativ, ganz richtigt. Es sind eine aggregat von Planer längsbevegung und drehbenk aber es ist gut. Wie bei allen alten Maschinen müssen Sie wissen, wie sie funktionieren. Zum einen habe ich Arbeitsproben gemacht, um zu evaluieren, wie es läuft. Zum einen gibt es einen Zwischenschritt, den ich glaube ich in einem anderen Film gezeigt zu haben, wo ich vor dem letzten Feinschnitt eine Kontrollmessung mit einem Scheuerlineal durchführe. Hat auch ein Video des Testschnitts in voller Länge. Die Eier sind im Nest ;-) Sehr gute und intressant Arbeit in Ihren Videos!

@@henrikandren6967 Vielen Dank für die Antwort. 👍 Was ist denn Ihre Muttersprache?

Meine muttersprach sind Schwedisch, oder Svenska som vi säger här 🙂

Don´t be sad, it´s better to have a bad lathe than no lathe :-) There are a lot of info online how to refurbish a lathe, I got some videos showing some of the work I did on a old russian lathe although I wouldn´t call my videos educational, mainly sharing and hopefully inspiring. look for Jan Sverre Haugjord, Richard King (has a facebook group), Practical MAchinsist forum ha a rebuilding section ( much supported by Rich), Keith Rucker and many others. Richard still gives classes on scraping and rebuilding in the us, I took one of his classes myself some years ago.

It's has no hard ways, just had a hard life ;-) In fact it is very easy cutting material. And yes, the planer is set-up and tested.

@@henrikandren6967and if they were hardened, would you still have been able to cut it?

No, not like this. I do have a small grinding head adapted to fit but I'm still to put it to use as I'm concerned about grinding stuff and it's definitely not set up for flood cooling.

@@henrikandren6967 i wonder how it works, if the stone wears to smaller diameter, is it compensated somehow to make the result flat?

I'm no grinderhand but I'd think it wear in the similar amounts as other cutters and I think one dress the wheels for sharpness before they go that much out of size. Maybe some expert on grinding can give you a better answer. For me I'd be more concerned with heat build up.

Thank you!

Thanks for your kind words 😊

Very carefully

In terms of carbide tool wear, it is insignificant. Imagine and compare to similar tool in a lathe. Say a cutting speed at least 10X and a dia 200 shaft 1m long gives a cutting length of 120m. Just for reference. Back to the question. The edge is diamond lapped sharp and keen, that's what I check. Sharpness and no damages by means of nail shaving and feeling plus visual loupe inspection.

It´s a Powell Planer which has been significantly rebuilt over it´s lifetime. The company was organized in 1887 and merged with Woodward in 1899 into Woodward and Powell Planers which are "more common".

It is indeed, it has an automatic oiling system feeding each side of the V-prisms individually with a heavy flow rate. I run it for quite some time to make sure the oil feed and film is steady before measuring or making chips

@@henrikandren6967 compared to lathe, its ways are used a lot more.

There is nothing really wrong with your thinking in terms using the un worn end of the lathe, I have however a hard time picturing a configuration facilitating it somewhat easy. Some lathes had loose V-prisms that could be turned around, right or wrong.

Depends on the spec i guess... If it was to be ground I think it wouldn´t make sense to plane it first. If one wants to it is very possible to scrape finish it after planing it, relatively little work compared to before planing. Now you´d only need to modify the surface and make sure to not alter any flatness or alignment. Otoh, having planed it for smoothnes and the material cut butter smooth, the result after deburring with a ground precision stone really makes you think trice before starting doing anything else to it... I have though planed other cast irons where I would not feel satisfied with the planed finish for a sliding surface. So it might depend on the case at hand as well.

Depends. Some lathes have hardened beds and these are best ground. Often, the last bit is accuracy is obtained from hand scraping of the planed surface

Edward Connelly, Machine Tool recondition.

You offering?

No, just a normal old planer. Only replaced the belt drive with electric motor and VFD.