Update: I took it to the shop and they are going to hack saw the axle off, and get me a new wheel, new axle, degrease the brake pads (since I now have PB Blaster all over everything) and put my new tires on. I certainly could have done these things myself, but I just reached my limit and decided to pay someone else to deal with it.

Found your video... having the same issue, but with the rear. I hope my threads are not toast.

Thanks...liquid wrench (spray didn’t work, loosened it just a bit)...garage door lubricant 💯completely saturated then pliers and a strategic bang with hammer on the pliers got it out with NO damage to the fork ! I hope this helps someone 🤘🏼

Thank you to the original poster. Really helped me. I too wasn't aware of the potential problem until I too wanted to change tyres. I had the same problem. The video shows the skewer removed and on the table.. Be careful doing this as the non lever end (i.e. the end nearest to the disc brake) has lots of little bits to it which can be easily lost. Also the bit that expands to hold the skewer in (see pic of parts at 0.37 in the video) tends to fall apart and is held together with thin rubber o-rings. That end also has a circlip and washer on it which can be easily lost. You will also notice a spring. At approx 1 min into the video, you will see a view down the seized tube. Note that there is a narrowing and lip further down the tube. This holds the spring which can then tension against the non lever end. My solution was to remove the skewer and add loads of WD40 or similar to the ends of the seized tube (not inside as no point in that). By using a large screwdriver for some leverage, I was able to get the forks to move on the tube, see the video where this is done by hand. This also let me get some WD40 on to the lever end of the tube. Be careful at the brake disc end however as you could bend the disc. As per the partial solution shown, I then hit a socket exactly as shown, but did it for longer and very often and only after giving the WD40 time to act (overnight). This released the tube by about 2cm only and then of course, the socket would not fit further down. I then used the extension bar upside down without the socket, pushed into the tube, but located onto the spring lip further inside the tube. A few bangs with the hammer and a BIG sigh of relief followed as the tube came out. Note that as in the video, proper support of the fork at the bottom end is very important. There didn't seem to be much corrosion, the job may well have been impossible if there had been. I cleaned what I could, re-assembled the skewer and set the locking part to enable it to push through the tube. I then used a load of grease on the outside of the tube and it fitted easily. Crucially, it also came out easily again! I did have an idea to bung up one end of the seized tube and to fill it with very hot water to see if the expansion would help free it. Didn't need to do this however. Be careful, a new QLOC is not cheap! However, if you do damage it but can still get it out, that will be cheaper than a bike mechanic, as long as you do not damage the forks or wheel! I have diaried regular removal and re-greasing from now! Also, I have read that QLOC is specific to the forks, so cannot be replaced with some other mechanism.

Mine was a solid aluminium thru-axle. Got some help from my dad and we drilled into the centre to make it big enough for some large screw tappers. We then wound the thread tapper in till it was super tight and used a hollow metal bar as leverage. It came undone eventually.

I was going to service my fork and adjust its travel when I couldn't get my wheel out, ended up removing the lowers with the wheel attached to it. Now I want to setup my wheels for tubeless, yet I still haven't figured out how to get the damn QLOC out. Really worried about what would happen if I get a flat out on the trails, not being able to remove my front wheel. From watching the video and reading all the comments, I'm sure this will be a great hassle to sort out. Wish my luck ya'll. Thanks for posting the vid mate.

Had the same problems with a voodoo 29er with the same forks. Got the tool bit that attaches to the socket and put it in the dropout, got the hammer 🔨 out then we was off to wonderland ☀️🌈 . If that doesn’t work use something like an allen key tool and hammer that into the socket tool thing. Because sometimes the tool that attaches to the socket isn’t long enough. Make sure to use lots of WD-40 on the outside of the stuck axle this helps a lot👍

I have just had mine sorted by the dealer that sold me the bike. After removing the bolt and all its bits and pieces, he made a 'wheel' puller that went through the barrel and purchased on the far end of same. The puller was then tightened against the forks at the other end and, eventually, out came the barrel. Nothing to show why it had seized in the fork at the lever end.

oh man, i can feel you! i have that same problem now on the front wheel of my 29er mtb. the Suntour thru-axle is stuck on my fork. tsk!:'/

Update...I got the thru axel out by using garage door lubricant and pulling it out with pliers...luckily fork not damaged...holes in the forks are not damaged 🙏🏼...currently waiting on a New “quick-release” thru Axel directly from SRsuntour in Madison, Wisconsin !

I have similar problem at the rear, i kick it really hard and wont come out, its like the triangle frame is splitting apart as i unscrew the axle.....i think should not put a grease on the thru axle.... oil lube should be enough....i used a food grade on the axle cuz tha's what available that time and through time it react badly with water and cease to release

KEEP CLEAN AND USE SYNTHETIC GREASE DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN

exactly the same senario has happened to me! thought I was alone in the world to succeed, the difference for me is that it is the rear wheel, have tried everything, even cried. am no mech expert so now I have to stop before I break the whole bike.

I just used a hacksaw as close as I could to both sides of the axel by the shocks, no damage to the important parts. Worked like a dream. The thru-axle is the worst design ever!!

I have a very similar problem - was too afraid to apply too much force with a hammer - will just take them to the local shop ...

Had the same problem and managed to get it out with a little persuasion. Whatever you do, do not dismantle the locking mechanism, use the pin running through the axle as the hammering point, this pushes through the whole through axle with the tube. All you’ll need is a hammer and a 12mm round bar. Unlock the weird locking mechanism and place the round bar on the circlip that’s on the opposite end of the leaver, start smashing away. Worked for me!

Hi all appreciate the helpful advice. Like many others here, I used wd40 to loosen the axle before hitting it out. Soaked each side with wd40 for about 2 hours each. Supposed to use a rubber mallet but I used a heavy base small saucepan with thick towel to hit the non quick release side. Managed to release it. *important*. Before spraying wd40, cling wrap your brake rotor. Multiple layers. Otherwise, it will get on and contaminate the pads. Brakes won't work properly.

I have a bmx bike and my back wheel won’t come off how do I fix it I found the issue when I tried tightening my chain it wouldn’t tighten because my wheel wasn’t going back

I've got the same problem but I have no clue how to do it.

Put a cone spanner under the lever cam and open and close it repeatedly so it ratchets itself out, once it has moved enough put a second cone spanner and repeat. Then third etc... I realise this is too late but this has never failed for me. Only really works on the QLoc axles

WARNING FOR EVERYONE ..... poor OP, i also feel for you, but you made a fatal error (you couldn't have known really). At 1:45 you put a socket that appeared to fit the "axle" and pressured it. But that wasn't the axle, that was a bush pressed into the forks which is supposed to stay in place. If you look down the hole from the side where the clever nut thing was located (not the lever side) you will see that part way down the hole, the walls get narrower, i.e. there is a shoulder. THAT is the end of the axle you need to remove. So you need a drift (a rod or stout pipe) that is small enough to go through the bush in the fork, but big enough to locate firmly against the shoulder further down (i.e. the end of the axle). The one I found in my junk box was 12.5mm diameter and I reckon that is about just right. Then either press out the axle or (as I did because I don't have the wit to rig up a press) hit it with a soft mallet, of course using lots of thin oil (WD 40 or GT 85 etc). While doing this you need to support the lower fork with a soft block just as the OP was doing (I used a heavy chunk of firewood). Make sure to support it as close to the axle as possible but not of course under the axle, it has to be free to come out! When I got it out I discovered the axle is chrome plated steel and the corrosion had eaten a few tiny holes in the chrome but I cleaned it, and the forks and the wheel, greased it all and put it back. All these fat axles will be susceptible to this problem so keep them greased very regularly. So easy to do compared with this nightmare!

I have successfully removed a thru axis how I did it was to tap out the axil on the thread side with an M12 start tap then used a 12mm high tensile bolt to remove axil First drill axil with 10.3mm drill from axil threaded side (taping size for M12 1.5 tap) Using M12 tap carefully thread the tap in about 90 degrees and back out 60 degrees until you have threaded 25mm deep use lots of oil and do not force. Remove tap and screw in 12 mm bolt to remove thro axil to a point you can get mold grips around the toque side (hex key side) then replace axil with new axil with grease on and remember not to over tighten axil from if using M12 X 1.5 pitch first tap The

Can you please tell me how to fix, my thru axle lever broke how do I remove the wheel

I have the same situation with the quick release And was looking for help Found your video 😩

This happened to me!

Hi all I have problem with my through axle, no problem getting it in or out but the small flat and the small locking washer fell off whilst taking the wheel off looks like the locking washer has opened up slightly. Anybody know if it can be repaired.

I'm haveing the same problem

how to remove the part that have to use a Allen key? i hope you give me an answer

Hi, is it the brake that is stuck and holding the wheel in, also I think you may have pushed the axle bush into the wheel hub by by using the socket ?

I got the same issue with my rear through axle, it won't come out. Sooooo anoying.

I’m having that exact problem right now on my brand new rims 🤬🤬

that maybe because of corrosion of q loc main cylinder

Get a new wheel

Mine is stuck too wtf so annoying