The most important tip is the installation of a -Anti - Islanding- circuit and a Manuel cut off to not energize the the lines while they are being repaired,for safty .

Contraptions like these--especially ones that need to integrate with other systems--really make me appreciate standards and certifications.

@Everyday Solar To answer your question about the electrolytic capacitors: they should NOT run hot or even warm. That would be a sign that they are incorrectly rated for the application. Electrolytic capacitors tend to have a short life in cheap inverters and charge controllers but failure is usually obvious because the top of the capacitor will fracture and vent smoke OR the rubber plug in the bottom of the capacitor will be pushed out. Yours look OK. More likely that a fuse has melted or a semiconductor has blown. It's hard to tell from the video but it does appear that the semiconductor immediately above the toroidal coil (top right on the lower PCB) has exploded.

Emporia monitoring system is great, I've been using it since 2020 good accurate gadget

I have an old Y&H/ecoworthy inverter (I think they're part of the same company). What I found is that you cant run them a full wattage/full amperage. You need to halve that or it fails. They're coy with the specs on what tolerances their components have. I suspect the top wattages are the company being a little loose with the truth. Some of the ones I looked at inside had some quality control issues where connections had been reversed on the mp4 connectors. I'd strongly suggest checking your polarity on the unit (even the panels).

I did grid-tie for years, now I just bought more poly solar panels, and went fully off grid!

Another informative video, thank you for taking the time to do this experiment. I have 4 GTI installed and on my 1300 watt setup I am getting right around 1 Kw per day and using over 20, so my ROI is over 9 years but offsets and fun are PRICELESS!

You can open any water sensitive electronics like the power display and spray the board and connections with 4 coats of krylon acrylic clear spray to make them resistant. Not saying skip the box but it will help.

I'd always prefer to have a solar backup to mains so I'd prefer batteries. Here in the UK feed-in payments have gone down, they were 100% at first but now it's about 5%. Most times I want backup power, it's already dark so a charged battery is more use than a dark solar panel.

Put a set of aluminum fins on the back of the controller box. Use the computer paste for cpu. Put a sealed bag around that display.

As an experiment, can you turn your breakers off so the home is not drawing power and show a video of your meter while it is backfeeding. Let’s see if it goes backwards, forwards or stay stationary. I hear lots of opinions, but I have never seen this experiment. thank you.

Had my 2kw solar/9kw battery system producing easily 80% of my needs 4 years now, the first year it produced 95% which was a bit of a struggle in winter but is still amazing for such a small system. Installed it myself so payback is already achieved. Since I did it, its even easier to do yourself with all in one boxes and is a no brainer for anywhere with decent sun.

If you want to add solar power without a grid connection, you need batteries, which are enormously expensive. But you could use a heat battery: Heat a tank full of water or sand directly with your solar electricity, and draw that heat to warm your house or water as needed when the sun is not shining.

this is an easy addon to an RV system without any wiring needed.

Well if you are going to open it up and do the things, if you have a 12V source, install a chassis fan for cooling, you can also get heatsinks that you can stick onto the back side of the unit. They use a layer of sticky that is also a thermal conducting layer. Probably could do the same thing inside the unit, with some of those small heatsinks that you can attach to PI processors. Do that while pushing air through the unit, I'll bet you stop getting the overheating errors.

The Y&H 1200W Solar Grid Tie Micro Inverter you've described is a specific type of inverter designed for use in grid-tied solar power systems. Here are some key features and information about this particular microinverter: The microinverter has a power capacity of 1200W, which means it can handle a maximum power input of 1200 watts from the solar panels. This microinverter is designed for grid-tied solar power systems. In grid-tied systems, the solar panels generate electricity, and the microinverter converts the DC power generated by the panels into AC power that can be fed into the electrical grid. MPPT (Maximum Power Point Tracking): The microinverter likely features MPPT technology, which optimizes the power output from the solar panels by adjusting the operating point to the maximum power point. The PV (photovoltaic) input range is specified as DC28-50V, indicating the compatible input voltage range from the solar panels. The AC output range is specified as AC80-160V. It comes equipped with a monitoring display screen that allows users to view data related to the inverter's performance. This can include information such as power output, voltage, and other relevant data. The microinverter has an IP65 waterproof rating, which means it is designed to be protected against dust and low-pressure water jets from any direction. This level of protection makes it suitable for outdoor installation. It's crucial to ensure that the microinverter is compatible with the specific solar panels and system requirements you have. Check the specifications and compatibility guidelines provided by the manufacturer. Installation: Microinverters are typically installed on or near the solar panels. The AC output is then connected to the electrical grid. Ensure that the microinverter complies with relevant safety standards and regulations in your region.

The inverter type you are using is know for having over heating problems. I suggest the indoor type that is fan cooled or the larger more expensive type that is made to handle an entire system of panels.

Love the structure for holding the panels

Man I'm so glad I watched this before I pulled the trigger on buying that inverter. On a side note did you ever find something decent? Also for my setup I wanted to put a transfer switch for the inverter and a boost charge controller because it's a small bike shed where I can charge my ebike or Sur Ron for free but when it's not charging the bike I can have it feed some power into the grid to supplement my power. It be cool if you ever could do a video like that, but that might just be a special case. Also it would be cool to see a solar shed with just DC power powering it and see if that runs more efficient than transferring everything to AC. Just a thought!

Get a few Enphase microinverters! (If you must go 120v an autotransformer is all you need)

I'm all for the the alternative power source, but, unless I am located in the middle of nowhere, I really don't see the need for solar energy and it is confirmed with this video. Very informative and no biased review and for that, you earned my sub!!!

I have 32 kW system at my house.I did myself. Middle of the summer I put back 130-140 kw a day. winter maybe 40. Summertime when it rains it still spins backwards😊

It addtion to the pads on each of the 6 capacitors, it looks like they may have forgotten to remove the adhesive blue tape from the two big rectangular thermal pads on the components next to the capacitors. It might be resulting in less heat transfer to the case from those components. You can see they made allowance on the cover for those pads to also dissapate heat.

Everybody has to start somewhere. There's nothing like making your own electricity.

This was very informative. Thank you

So, the little black devices in the middle of the unit are the things that need heat sinking. If there is a heat issue, it would be there, not the 3 capacitors. You would need to check on the type of devices there. You could also use a infrared camera while the unit is open to check if there is one of those that appears to be hotter than the others. I will bet it will not be easy to get a schematic with parts information, but if you see one or more getting hotter, you can look at the part and there usually is identifying information on them. If you have a warranty, I would not go further, if not and you want to repair, find those parts. desolder the hot ones, and replace them with new parts. Be sure to apply a heat sink compound.

Best way to solor for home, is literally rewire it all back in time to DC energy, mainly lighting and small loads. Sure there is large white goods that run on DC, but are small :(

It needs fans placed inside to bring in cool air and exhaust hot air OR much much better heat synchs to exhaust the heat.

Please provide the link to the other inverter you mentioned that you were trying to get approved by your Net metering service provider. Thank you!

You might had an issue meter backfeeding to your inverter vs just overheat - the emf off a meter is pretty a good size and if you dont have some form of a gfci/afci this could be one issue

Your issue for the damage of the inverter most likely stems from the low temperature that you experienced. Temperature effects power output from the PV array. The lower the temperature the higher the voltage from the array. I would dare to say that due to the low temperature the array power output raised and damaged the inverter due to excessive voltage and power. Bear in mind that the power curve rating for the modules are given for standard test conditions (STC= 77 degrees F). When calculating maximum power input for the inverter, we need to take into account the minimum ambient temperatures that the modules will experience.

I use compressed air to run generators instead of DIRECTLY sourcing solar for power, but what I do to get around all the rules is, I have "emergency" outlets in my house - not grid tied, so no problems with Code or power company rules. Also, I use cheap ($35) solar panels to run small compressors whenever there's sunshine, so my 2,000 gallons of compressed air is free.

The issue may be at the center of the board where all those little back squares are with Philips screws on them. Looks like they just sit on a thermal layer but that's blocking the chips from dissipating any heat to the outside of the box and the box being be air cooled. Those chips should be the same type you would see in a car amplifier, however decent car amps thermal paste each chip and direct mount them to bare metal inside of the amp. Maybe consider testing this as a fix. Pull the bottom board out, may need to re-solder the chips back on board, but you should consider cutting the purple color layer off the board, thermal paste the metal area and mount those chips with the Philips screws. Should solve the overheat issue,

Thank you for the video. What is the device in your breaker box you mentioned please?

One failure of the shut off during a power outage could fry a lineman. I'd be very leery of ever connecting to the 'grid'. I'd want to islolate the grid power then use that to install several line voltage coil relays in series to make quite certain (or at least reduce the chance) that any of my power was reaching out into the grid. Morally, legally and financially I'd want to be certain.

I have a solar and battery setup. Solar is fine IF you have a lot of sunshine. Winter time in the UK i.e. Nov - March, its nigh on a waste of time if you are looking for a fast payback. Winter time, I tend to charge up the batteries to 100% capacity on the cheap rate overnight (16p a unit compared to the day rate of 34.8p) and the capacity I have is enough to see me through the day/night. The solar produced: Nov = 117.5kWh Dec = 50.1 kWh Jan = 88.0 kWh Feb = 141.5 kWh Compare that to June (last year) 642.2 kWh May and July were each over 550kWh For the whole of January '24 I exported the grand total of 5 kWh! Summertime though, it really is all change. The solar arrays are more than enough to not only charge the batteries to 100% with no import required at all but also export a good chunk of electricity. But even then we do get the odd days where sunshine just doesn't shine. Having a smart meter, I have an export display to read. I get paid for what I export. But it ain't great!

This is the kind of setup I wanted to do to learn solar. Something like 8 panels on the ground to offset power use. Im at $0.30 a kwh here. Hoping you do a video with a functional setup.

Thanks for the follow up and I tried to warn people that microinverter is not going to pass code and does not appear to be safe. There are no heat sinks or fans on that unit. Don't recommend anyone buy one and look at off grid system components from reputable dealers not a plug n system that could burn your house down or cost you your insurance coverage.

Have you done further experimentation to see if there is a quality MI that can do as you have set up here without failure? I am looking for a four-into-one 240VAC micro inverter that I will simply run a jumper off of my A/C condenser contacter to an identical contacter that controls the "On/Off" of the micro inverter to my A/C condenser. That way without Net Metering I am able to substantially offset my A/C load on my grid (I will keep the watts under what the A/C is actually using) yet I will never backfeed the grid as the contacter can only be closed when the grid is present.

You can figure out what part failed by swapping the panels from the lower inverter one by one onto the upper inverter it might be a fault in a panel or the wiring from the inverter to the panels. Of course you could also swap the panels from the working inverter to the lower one and see if it goes green. A new system could have any number of faults. You might also try conecting your output to the 2nd connector. It is strange the left output is connected directly to bottom inverter that had the red light and the top one had the green light but it is connected directly to the right side plug. I think I would verify the internal wires between the inverters is solid the thick wire with the black shield.

You exceeded the wattage Input. The power supply is only rated for 300 watts input as it states on the Amazon listing. So on a sunny day, it likely burned up that side of the inverter.

I feel like it may be easier and more code friendly to only use this setup to run specific devices in your home on dedicated wiring NOT hooked up to the grid with battery storage for use in the evenings. Maybe a washer and dryer that you'll only use during days on the weekend or something like that.

Thank you. This is some very important information. The bang for the buck on solar is different with some cheap components. Expectations should be lowered. To spend $500 to get only $1 of energy is insane. People are rushing into solar energy with loans that do not make good $ sense. Every one needs to calculate the bang for the buck and the payback for break even.

First Impressions: no DC or AC breakers or manual disconnects to deal with inverter failure and fire

Have had grid tied 10 kW tracker system for 12 years which produces about 14000 kW hrs / year. 2X6 kW Aurora inverters!

I was at a home show at Florida state fair. And there was a guy that was selling this thing that went between your meter and power panel and it would send power back to a through your house basically slowing your meter while not affecting your your neighbors on the lines. I kinda understood it made sense. Because ac power just goes from one house to the next with the meter just being the go between. But all three big eclectic companies shut his product down and it was on the news and they said it was working by slowing down your meter. But I ain't no electrician expert.

Hoymiles micro inverters have been tested and are performiming well in Europe, 25 year manufactures warranty.

We have a transfer switch box to run certain circuits off our generator during power outages. It has a 30amp receptacle. Could something like this connect to the 30amp as an alternative power source?

If the inverter is flashing, that means the MPPT is not accepting energy? The MPPT is looking for ideal conditions for the panels? To get/Receive the most power output? How does an MPPT "look" for ideal conditions to accept energy? Ideal point on what curve?

Looking forward to you testing other 120v inventors . Question, do you have to plug this into a dedicated outlet?

Your local inspector would red tag your installation within seconds. You are back feeding an outlet made to supply power. You have also installed a male plug on your system, when unplugged could become energized. Go to home depot and buy the correct outlet, and then wire a female outlet on your system. That would mean you would have to turn your extension cord to work the opposite way.

I'd be interested to get a used solar panel just to run some lights and chargers. Even if it doesn't feed into the grid, it would still replace some power we would otherwise have to pay the utility for.

Wondering if the failure could be caused by condensation. If the unit is getting damp inside, any moisture could have dripped to the lower board and shorted it out. Maybe inspect closely and see if you see any signs of water.

Thank you for the video.. I was curious to see how this would perform. Regarding the failure... Is it possible that too much voltage/amperage got into the microinverter? Its a 1200W inverter hooked to 1440W of panels. Yes, I understand losses. But you mentioned that it was super cold when they failed. If they got some good light while cold, they could have produced over the 300W microinverter rating and harmed the (lets just says "sensitive") electronics inside the micro right? Thanks!

I have several grid tie inverters and solar panels and I tested to see if it shuts down when power on the grid goes down. Later I found that if my pellet stove was running with the fan on and auger motor on, if you shut down the main breaker, the motor generates a signal that keeps the inverter running creating its own micro grid. You should check your system to see if that can happen in your case.

I burred two of 300W before I figured it out how to keep this device cool, just install any kind of cooling fan....

we have smart meters and you would have to have a contract with our power company to feed back any power into the grid, when i got my contract with the power company it's cost me $525.00 . i wouldn't try doing this without approval from the power company, because they can tell when someone feeds into the system power from your smart meter.

We make 8 to 12 Kwhrs off grid per day in the summer and 2 to 5 Kwhrs per day in the winter here in TN off grid. Whole house depends on solar as there is no utility. Starting in Nov,Dec, Jan and some of Feb we use 1/4 gallon of gas at night for those months when the suns not out or 1 gallon of gas per day if it continues the following day of no sun. So 21 days of the year we're burning a little fuel. Math thats roughly $3 a gallon x21 = $63 a year.

Take a big bathroom mirror and make it point the sun at a panel. Tell me how much better it does?

we pay .30c a kW/h in Australia (QLD)

Concerning the inverter - is it possible that the outputs are splitting the output? I assume they are both outputs? in the middle on each side?

Just an FYI you might want to clarify with your utility some Smart meters charge you for putting power back onto the grid. Basically anytime power comes from the grid or from your house you get charged if it passes through the meter. It happened to me in an apartment Several months after I installed it they updated To a smart meter and they told me, Then I was able to track and verify it. If you don't want to be charged for the extra power you feed the grid you need a limiter on your inverter connected to One leg of your power box.

Need at least 4kw to come anywhere near running a normal house, inverters need to be rated at least 20-30% over what the max input and needed output are, so they last longer, same for batterys.

Does the smaller version suffer from the same issues? (Over heating}

is there a nylon thin layer over the heating paste? that blue film? if there is it has to be removed for the paste to work

For Safety and stability, you should be using a Growatt grid tie inverter. Can add an export limiter so you never back feed anything to the grid, thus does not require a net metering agreement

Ya know there are tens of thousands of folks who have gone OFF GRID have solar and zero electric bill period. It's a win win. As for feeding excess back into the grid. A few friends do this and their electricity bill is a fraction of what they use to Pay.

Great video man :) That inverter enclosure doesn't look that weatherproof to me ! Perhaps the lower half has moisture damage ?

Micro converters to one breaker are accepted in EU on grid. All stop when the main is dead. 3200 watt max. Times 240 volt.

Looked into this, but was told by some KZfaqrs that the power that they fed into their house actually ended up costing them because house meter couldn't tell that this energy was being directed into the house not used from the grid. Hope that makes sense.

Is that legal? If the power company turns the power off for service there is still a lethal voltage being fed into the system.

well I know here in AU unless its in an solar export circuit any power your exporting you will be billed for as the default meter does not have flow control and just bills power assuming its all coming from grid

OVER HEATING BECAUSE U ARE PUTTING 1440 watts into a 1200 watt inverter. (360 watt solar panel x 4 = 1440 watts). That’s probably your issue.

How much did the setup cost and how long would it cost to pay for it's self?

Interesting stuff!😎 Perchance is there a very small glass fuse (similar to old automotive fuses) soldered into the circuit like they have on modern fluorescent ballasts which are actually unserviceable?

It's really not complicated at all if you don't tie into grid. All you need is a transfer switch so that either the main power is on or the solar system but not both at the same time. It sounds like your close to producing enough power to run 100 percent off your own solar.

hey over heated bcause to many watts maybe, on a good day they could produce close to 400 wtts,its happened to me here inarizona

I wonder if you put a small low voltage fan on the inverter if it will help????

Why is the inverter running with a low DC input? I'm used to panels being installed in series and outputting 800-1500 vdc.

I want to build a system to offset power outage to keep my freezers and refrigerator operating. Maybe a few lights

Taking into account: initial cost of solar panels, mounting panels, converters, installation permits, electrical permits, electrical inspections, testing, and HOA approval, I have concerns on maintenance. Snow removal from panels, dust removal, cleaning of panels, hail damage, and who do you call for repairs, maintenance, replacement of converter, electrical parts, or damaged solar panels, or worn damaged wiring over time ? ? ? Sounds expensive, a hassle and not worth the effort.

Hi, your videos are great. We are from Slovenia and we have a CTC 9kw heat pump for heating water and rooms in the house and electricity is the only source of energy. We are considering upgrading solar collectors for water heating or a solar power plant with an Ecoflow Delta pro storage tank, as an aid to the heat pump or saving energy costs. What do you advise us?

Quick question? If theres a power outage in the day time will solar panels still work?

Add some heat sinks to the the back flat space.

I wonder if you could use a smart plug which will shut off when the grid goes out and an mppt inverter for solar, which is more reliable because of the cooling fan.

What about turning off one or more of your circuit breakers, installing an LFP battery, and then converting those circuits to DC power eliminating the need for a micro inverter and the power losses associated with that 🤯

WOW ... talk about Deception.

Better off making a battery bank and use it for your water heater and refrigeration

what is the voltage off each panel, and what is the voltage rating on the inverter

First time viewing your channel! -------- I believe its likely a defective half to the inverter (Chinese made parts are always of dubious quality) but it could also be a defective panel or bad shorted lead coming from a solar panel shutting the inverter off on that bottom half or too much total input power as exceeding either the max input wattage or input voltage being inputed into the inverter can cause it to shut down. Q. Do the two panels on the lower half (with the red light) work ok on the top half of the inverter without overheating it?

As I look at the open chassis. I wonder if the light blue tape has the factory shield removed (thin plastic to protect adhesive). Is it possible that the blue tape is not conducting heat at all? These are on top of what looks like coils.

Nice information! 🤩🌞 Check out the underpaid workers with no fall protection! 6:31 OSHA

Those VWC`s are crazy inefficient, has only one common MPPT for all panels (which struggles to lock), overheats/shuts off until it cools and ultimately fails after some time. Supposed to be IP67 but gasket surface alignments are poor and those on those I have opened water has had a open patchway directly in. Not close to IP67 for sure. Ditch these and go for some reputable brands like APS or Enphase - they cost more but will be cheaper in the long run.

Install 12 volt appliances & watch power use plummet.

I don't understand how you can just plug one these into an outside outlet. AC has a sine wave. If you have two things producing power and the sine waves are not in sync, I would think that woul be a problem. How does that work?

Maybe add a heat sink or add venting and/or fan.

Was there any sign of component failure? You took the time to open the inverter but didn't investigate.

Can anyone tell me how the AC from the solar panel/inverter system goes into the grid? Does that system produce slightly higher voltage than the grid or what? We have 27 panels and net metering, and haven’t paid the electric company anything in years. If anyone knows of a good text or website that explains how this works, I would appreciate knowing about it. 4:49

You almost gave us the name of the brand that would pass muster with UL Labs and Utilities? What brand is that so we can research? Looking for simple solutions in a very complicated bureaucratic, discouraging and expensive solar industry that certainly does not cater to average folks wanting to reduce their electric bills instead of incurring a mountain of debt.

I looked into this just deeply enough to come to the conclusion that I wouldn't live long enough to break even.