Hey thanks Mark. I really appreciate your kind thoughts! There is something about a time lapse, that gets you mesmerised

Don’t be scared of cutting stone! A good diamond masonry disc and a grinder, and you’re good to go

Thanks Al! I find making hybrid plywood and glass tanks fairly easy. If you have good hands on skills, you’ll be fine. Feel free to ask any questions of me, and I’ll be happy to help out. I’m thinking about building another tank soon, specifically for my moray eels. I’ll record its construction and post it.

Thanks Fintastic Freaks

Thanks Ben I appreciate your support!

My as well first time and I subscribe also I want to see the fish ✌️🤘👍💯

The fish update will come. I’m currently trying to get the tank, above and below water, greened up. I’ve got some teething issues I’m trying to figure out

Thanks Animals Unlimited

Your welcome Yuanzhang

Look at you watching aquarium content! You know who to ask if you and Tony feel like breaking out the tools

Thanks Remington Shelton

Thanks mate

You’re welcome

Thanks TKTropicals

Cheers Ben Bear

@@australianaquarist really enjoying the Australian fish keeping channels I spent about 7 years in Australia I would move back tomorrow

I know!!! I’ve been busy checking out corals at Minnie Water

@@australianaquaristI bet it’s leaking and that’s why you haven’t shown a updated.

Just checking out a Sting concert in the Hunter!

Looks like he used a steel stock angle iron for structure. I’m pretty sure it will hold using the steel? I highly doubt he spent the money invested the time without doing adequate research

Same, when I saw it I was like Ooooo Nooo Bad mistake.

A metal piece also can break over time 🤷🏼‍♂️ that a shit load of pressure there

Thanks Free Swimmer That’s my third plywood tank build, and I do like the flexibility of using timber in odd sized tanks. I’m not sure where you’re from, but in Australia, glass is really expensive in 10-15mm thicknesses.

Thanks mate

Thanks Flipper J

Have a crack Shrimpy! It’s a lot easier than you think

Thanks Logan-Dizzle

Thanks mate

Thanks B.B

Geez BP23, you must have an understanding boss!

@@australianaquarist it's a home office lol

Thanks Wanda Couldn’t see your messages, but I’m happy to help a fellow fish keeper anytime

Hey Jay Building a plywood and glass aquarium isn’t that difficult, so long as you have the basic tools. I think plywood is also a valuable material to use for the base of wide and unusual shaped tanks, where thick glass becomes expensive. I’d be happy to give advice if ever you decide to have a go

Thanks Hector Lara

@@australianaquarist I'd never thing that it is possible to but joint glass and have it hold water, it like you used stainless steel reinforcement with braces on the top, I may use this in a build. Thank you.

Thanks Metalhammer Jimmy Glass is crazy expensive here in oz, so you’ve got to get creative

I’ve done it before on a 12 ft tank for my morays, just not as tall as this one.

Thanks Bernando

Thanks ChowZeb

Hey , thanks Mintblueberry123! This guy is just a farmer, husband and father that loves his fish, but needs to watch the $$! Glad you enjoyed the video

It’s pretty easy if you’ve got the skills. Glass is really expensive in Australia, so for large and odd size tanks , plywood becomes an option

Cheers Tikvahs Page Page I’ve always used KZfaq to learn new ways of doing things.

I know right! I’ve got a reef plywood tank coming out soon. Stay tuned! kzfaq.info/sun/PL3TJwBL958AzZBv38c8uMJlVHD-rqr3bz&si=8EeeCtS9aiO4Ber7

Hi Kerry Pond Armour is not available locally in Australia, and I didn’t want to try and ship it from USA. The actual timber sealing is achieved by the epoxy, but not being uv stable, I needed to overcoat it in this outdoor tank. So I chose to use Crommelin pond sealer as the uv barrier

Initially just butt siliconed, and then I siliconed on the aluminium angle across the top. With the angle ( full length ) across the top and the channel at the bottom that the glass sits in , the two panes were forced to be in alignment. Then I siliconed the aluminium plate down the join , on the outside. On my 12ft moray tank inside, that has 2 6ft glass panes for the front, I also siliconed a glass bridging strip on the inside of the join, which became hidden by the cover strip on the outside.

Too true. OH&S has never been my strongpoint!

Hey John It certainly is still holding water! The two front panes were bridged with the aluminium plate, and the aluminium angle bracing along the top. The bracing was then cross braced back to the rear timber wall using aluminium strips.

Hi OPAIK It’s summer here at the moment, so the tank hasn’t been through a winter yet. Where I live, it’s considered a warm temperate to subtropical climate, and we don’t get frosts, and definitely no ice or snow! In saying that , our winter nights can get down to 2 degrees Celsius ( 35 Fahrenheit), and I expect the water temperature may drop to 16 degrees Celsius (60 Fahrenheit). Our winter days are still warm , and average 20 degrees Celsius (68 degrees Fahrenheit). The turtles will hibernate under water, though I may provide a box of grass and leaves for them , if they choose. I’m only going to stock fish that are native and found in my local rivers. That way I know they can handle lower temperatures. There is no way I could stock any northern Australian or New Guinea rainbow fish, without heating the water to a minimum of 68 Fahrenheit, which would be ridiculously expensive! I could stock certain barbs , like Odessa and Rosy Barbs, which prefers cooler water, and even livebearers, but I wish to depict an Australian theme tank.

The problem with big tanks is heat loss from the large water surface, and through the large glass panes. So even if you insulate the bottom , back and sides, I don’t think it would help much, if the environment the tank is in, is too cold eg outside. Inside, keeping the room shut up, a clear plastic sheet over the tank, and 600 watt heaters will work. That’s what I do for my similar sized marine tanks inside the shed.

Im in Florida and keep Southies. I had them in a 1210g plywood system for years. My house temp is between 73 Fahrenheit in winter to 79 fahrenheit in summer, I have run 2-800watt heaters to maintain an 82 degree tankwater temp, year round. My fishroom costs are $45-$50 per month.. All lighting and pumps and heaters.

That’s brilliant…. The cost of the hobby for you. I’m not sure what the cost of electricity is in the USA? It’s around 30 cents/kW hour in Australia. I’d love to have some more tropical rainbowfish in this tank, but there’s no way I could afford to heat the tank

I approximate I’m spending around $250 per month on electricity for my fish hobby

Hey Brian The intent of the aquascape is to look like a log jam in a creek or river, which in many times around here, is formed by trees that have been felled by a chainsaw! I understand however, that in ‘nature style’ aquariums this wouldn’t be done, or obscured by moss

The two panes are aligned and effectively “locked” in place by the timber recess ( and silicone) they sit in, and the single aluminium angle along the top edge. Their alignment can’t move. Then with a truck load of silicone, I installed a glass bridge on the inside, and an aluminium bridge on the outside of the joint

I checked beforehand that the silicone would adhere to the sealer on the plywood. Then with the aluminium angle frame, and the recess in the timber base for the glass to sit in

Not quite, but check out this video. Toward the end of it, I discuss bracing the glass panels kzfaq.info/get/bejne/a5qhmKqLsbOoYKM.htmlsi=CDk-QY6_Vd92bJXQ

Hey Gareth, the valley the glass sits in, formed by the recessed plywood base, holds the base in place. The aluminium angle holds the top aligned with each other. A backing and face plate siliconed across the joint, keeps the butt joint water tight

@@australianaquarist I was wondering the same thing! Looks great. I've never seen a construction like that for multiple panes.... looks to be a neat and simple way to achieve the desired result. I guess, in theory, nothing's stopping as many panes as you'd like across the front?

The plywood in this tank is 12mm, whereas in my other plywood tanks I’ve used 19MM ply. Because I built the walls and floor using treated framing timber, and screwed the studs at 300mm centres, I decided to try thinner ply. The ply isn’t structural in this design

@@australianaquarist Thanks mate. That makes great sense.

Hey mate The glass is 12mm toughened glass, not float

@@australianaquarist okay thanks. Been getting prices on 12mm in nsw.. not cheap haha

Pool fencing is the go

You just can’t cut or drill it

@@australianaquarist tha ks buddy will keep that in mind

Hey JD M Not that I’m aware of. The black paint is a commercially available pond sealer suitable for fish, and the epoxy on the plywood is one that had been used in public aquarium/ crocodile exhibits up north

Sick build

Hey Kyle I hope I can explain this for you. I created a ledge with the bottom of the tank, by having the upper sheet of plywood set back 15 mm from the edge of the bottom timber. The 15mm is for the 12mm glass, plus 3 mm silicone. You would have noticed me screwing a timber board across the front of the tank, along the bottom, before the glass was Installed. That then created a valley behind (a 15mm valley), that the glass could sit down into. The two panes of glass that a butt joined initially by silicone at the front middle, then had a aluminium strip siliconed ( full coverage of silicone) as a bridging piece, and a glass strip on the inside. The aluminium angle that runs along the top edge, is what gives it all the strength. The water wants to push the glass outwards, …. Convex. The aluminium angle is rigid and prevents the glass from bowing outwards. It is also locked back to the rear timber wall by the aluminium cross braces.

The water depth is only 800 mm (2.5 ft), and 12 mm thick toughened glass. Combined with the inability of the top edge or bottom edge to bow, the line of the glass stays straight

Lucky this tank is outside of the houses, I will never make an aquarium this way inside my home.

@@australianaquarist how does the water not seep through the wood? That’s what I’m confused about

The plywood is sealed and made water proof with a two part epoxy. The epoxy is designed for the boat building industry, and can be thinned to wick into the timber, left unthinned to build up layers, and thickened to act as a glue. If the tank was inside, and not exposed to uv light, I could have just continued the build without any topcoats. Epoxy resin is not uv stable. Being outside, I decided to use a commercially available pond sealer to overcoat it , as well as a polyurethane sealer to give extra sealing to the screw heads and corners

That’s the go. Thinking outside the box

Nice Sigmund! The rivers here are generous!

The plywood back , end wall and base is sealed with three coats of marine epoxy, and over coated with three coats of pond sealer for uv protection

I think for larger aquariums and unusual shaped aquariums is where plywood becomes a valuable and cost effective building material

I looked up flexseal and it is interesting! The liquid 1 gallon cans aren’t available in Australia yet, only the spray ons. Amazon was selling 1 gallon cans for $415 ! Which only cover 150 square feet. That one can would do a single coat over the timber shell, and I’d imagine that you’d want to do 2-3 coats. That, much like a lot of imported products, becomes really expensive!

I don’t want to hear that!!