No problem man. Thats why I started this channel.

I pretty much only use the compressor for nailguns and auto mechanic work. My diesel mechanic tries to never use his compressor. All his tools are battery. He hates being tethered.

How/why are you using a 1/2in drive torque wrench on tiny fasteners? My understanding is that if you are within 20% of the ends of the indicating band the torque wrench calibration drops off markedly and its not accurate. If you use a half in torque wrench on "tiny" fastener (assuming something you would typically wrench with a 1/4in drive) then if it would even register on a 1/2in drive torque wrench it would be fairly inaccurate and possibly damaging to the shank if the error is high. When I say torque in this video I mean designed max torque of the air ratchet as a powered machine whilst using air. ie: it stops when it reaches its manufactured designed limit. The reason I bring up torque of each size air wrench in this video is because when I used the 3/8 drive when i should have been using the 1/4 drive air rachet I busted a stud that held down a coil pack in my friends Honda civic on air power alone. As in, it went "BRRR..SNAP" I'm talking about guaging the power tool to the faster not the drive size. For instance, my Milwaukee 3/4 drive battery ratchet is rated by the manufacturer to torque to 65ftlbs before the motor stops applying force. These air wrenches do the same thing at their own specific torque stop limit. Socket wrenches, air ratchets, and torque wrenches are 3 very different tools used for very different reasons. Talking about all thee interchangeably in the same paragraph...im confused what youre getting at.

@@matthewszostek1819 I see where the confusion is. When I say "torque wrench" I'm speaking specifically about the hand tool that is calibrated & intended to torque fasteners to their given specification. For example, my torque wrench is an old Craftsman that was my grandfather's, which I've kept calibrated. It ranges from 9ftlb to 150ftlb in increments of 1ftlb. I don't use power tools to secure fasteners beyond screws in wood. I use my pneumatic impact solely for loosening stubborn fasteners and haven't picked up a pneumatic ratchet yet (that's actually why I came across your video). I can certainly appreciate snapping a bolt, but I've only done that when trying to remove overly rusted or extremely seized ones. Anyway, I found that smaller hand ratchets were impractical 95% of the time since nearly all of the sockets I use come in 1/2" drive options. So I don't use them; though I do still keep them around for sentimental value. I'm still not sure whether an air ratchet is worth the money for me but if I do buy one I'll only be running it with _just_ enough pressure to run nuts/bolts in or out and continue applying final torque the way I have been. Fasteners being "torqued" with power/pneumatics is one of the primary reasons I started doing my own work in the first place. Hopefully that clears up any confusion.

@@agentx250 You clearly arent the market for this. There is no reason to be using 1/2 wrenches on everything or 1/2 sockets, what do you do about a 10mm thats right next to a part so you cant even get the socket on it? Ive found a lot of times things where the sockets size is smaller than the drive you cant get the socket onto the head.

@@lowristocrat3824 Perhaps, but something that small you can usually get away with using a regular wrench. My point was simply that if you can't get a half inch drive tool into a given area then you're probably not going to get a 3/8 drive tool in there either.

No mam. Because they are used on different size fasteners they are designed to have diferent torque ranges. If you used a large powerful one on a small bolt you could break the bolt and that is a headache. Each size and material fastner has its own specific torque value. They actually stretch when you tighten them which holds the fastner tight much like a bungie chord under tension. This is called preload. If you exceed the max torque of the fastener it distorts and then catastrophically fails. On the other hand, if your wrench is too small you may exceed the rating of the tool and break it. These catostrophic material failures usually results in busted nuckles, drilling, tapping, trips to the hardware store, and loads of profanity. The best idea is to use the right tool for the job. A good rule of thumb for socket wrenches is to match the size drive to the socket. IE: Small sockets only fit 1/4in drive. I hope you found this helpful. :-)

Yes, you need to oil them with about 3-4 drops of airtool oil before you use them. Plus you need to have a moisture removal system inline to keep your pneumatic tools in good condition.

Matt Rowe Take the screw out of the opposite side. There's a flat screw, opposite the trigger. There's a spring and a little valve in there that opens the airflow, then closes with the spring. Just spray it or oil it, air ratchets aren't usually sealed, so debris gets in them a bit. You can buy them sealed with flat heads on them, but your gunna have to buy a Mac or SP brand. Most diy folks aren't using them. So for these normal ones, u gotta clean em out some times.

A_aron 37 I'm interested what you didn't like about it. I compared it with my craftsman and this one if leaps and bounds better...and they cost the same.

My friend: DO NOT FEED THE INTERNET TROLLS. He stated a generic opinion which should be taken with a grain of salt. His tool box is probably a cardboard box with some dollar store premium tools in it.

man i was so pissed i made a thorough comparison video and a seperate mini series on how to get the most bang for your buck out of these harbor freight tool boxes and the wife deleted them before i could edit and post. as far as that dude. i know the type. lol. i like to challenge them in a christ like fashion and leave their post up so others can see how big of a dousche they are.

@@matthewszostek1819 Don't worry this Troll is probably living out of his cardboard tool box by now. What a tumbling, tumbling dick weed. What a dork!