Thanks for that information. If nothing else in looking for this problem you took care of some things that could have caused you problems down the road. Thanks for watching

I literally have this same issue. We determined it was the injector as well because we were getting some rattle when accelerating. Going to change all the injectors and see what happens.

@@chelle315 did injector fix issues??

Sorry I took so long to reply Mike. Your engine is equipped with 4 variable valve timing solenoids, these solenoids are operated using the oil pressure. If you are low on oil or have dirty oil it can affect engine performance. I had a friend who brought his car in to a dealer. It cost $900 to have all 4 replaced. Other sensors you can look at are the crank and cam sensors. these sensors can most certainly cause the issues you describe. Most dealers have nominal fee to diagnose a problem. I would take it in, let them diagnose it, then decide if it is something you want to tackle yourself. Keep in touch.

Sorry I took so long to reply. Thanks for the kind words.

I am very sorry I have taken so long to reply. Those engines have 2 thermostats. One is the thermostat, and the other is called a water valve but they both have the same function. You must replace both as often they are the cause of the engine running hot.

the radiator was running dry, had to add like 2 gallons of coolant, now it seems to me that the car smoke white, maybe the head gasket gave up , but not sure yet @@richardspaulding5035

Thanks christhopher; That is something I will keep in mind next time I encounter a similar issue. Thanks for watching my channel.

Assuming the oil is full and has the correct viscosity. it could be the camshaft timing solenoid or the timing actuator itself. if the car has more than 100,000 miles it could be a worn timing chain. I don't think swapping the sensors was any help, if one was bad you still have the same condition. If it was the po300 by itself I would look at the crankshaft sensor, but with the po14 included it appears to be a a valve timing problem. None of these parts and or sensors are cheap. You might spend a lot of money chasing this one . As back yard guys we can save ourselves money. However there are times when we must bite the bullet take it in to the dealer. Good luck let me know how you make out

Not had good luck with aftermarket sensors, pay the extra money and get one from Nissan.

Yes, I had replaced the crank sensor the year befrore. I posted a video on that repair. You are correct the car acted exactly the same way. Thanks

My prob is I have a miss fire on just one cyl It has spark and conpression.but still dead Would a cam sincer make only one cyl miss fire?

@@tj484 Ok so its good its getting spark and compression. Could be a leaky/clogged fuel injector??? Or possibly getting spark at the wrong time? Whats the car

Thanks for sharing that information; so far no problems since replacing the camshaft sensor

I am not sure it will solve your issue, but the cam sensor is an easy install

@@richardspaulding5035 well I fixed P1148, Some one took the fuse out, but it didnt fix P0300, 0031 or 0037, So I'll have to check wire harness for shorts with multi meter before I drop 200 on those sensors. I did notice on realtime data that it switches between closed and open loop depending on accell/decell/load, so thats a good sign, both sensors voltage varies depending on load as well, so the sensors work, but the heating curcuit might be fubar Im going to replace valve cover as the gasket is leakin on the cover and the spark plug tubes, so likely causing the P0300. but It needs done regardless, as its leaking oil and pressure. havent had a hard start since puting the 02 Sensor fuse in either. (fingers crossed). so either the fuse was keeping the 02 Loop open, or the double shot of fuel system cleaner finally did a job on the pump/filter. as the hard starts started after filling up when tanker was there.

It is difficult to diagnose a problem from afar. being that these cars have aluminum heads and with the car overheating a blown head is on the table. However, I would think with the car going into limp mode, other codes would be present. Have you rechecked it with a scan tool? Most repair shops and dealers have a nominal fee for diagnosing a problem, usually about $100 or so. You can then make a decision if you want to attempt the repair yourself. keep in touch.

@@richardspaulding5035 Thank you for your reply and the ideas you shared. So, to report back, originally only code P0300 was present, then fortunately P0304 showed up as a pending code (waiting and scanning again was a great idea). Coil #4 was slightly melted and deformed. After replacing that coil, vibration got better, but not perfect. Then code P0303 showed up. Again coil #3 was melted and I replaced it. Intake plenum gasket was not melted. Hopefully this will take care of it unless more parts were damage in the overheat.

@@sepehrfadaei7564 thanks for getting back to me, it will be helpful to other viewers as well. I am glad you are getting to the bottom of your issue. Lucky the head did not warp. I replaced coils for a family member a number of years ago, this gentleman did not have a lot of money so I ordered him a cheap set of coils for him on Ebay. over the years they have held up nicely.

Head gasket I am afraid.

There is no port provided on these cars in the engine compartment for checking fuel pressure. To check fuel pressure, you must do it at the pump itself. The pump is located under the rear seat. Check out this video link to access the pump. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/mpOag695rKemnX0.html. If that was an aftermarket crank sensor it may still be the problem. A Nisson dealer told me that some aftermarket sensors don't work well in Nissans. I replaced a crank sensor in a rouge that I purchased at Nappa for about 50 dollars. The car still ran like crap, so I gave up and took it to Nissan. They installed one of their OEM sensors and I had no more issues.

@@richardspaulding5035 thanks! Yeah , I got the Cam sensor from autozone. Might have to bite the bullet and get a diag at the dealership on this one.

Hello, did you find what was causing that issue? I have the same problem but can’t find an issue. It misfires sometimes when on idle and car is shaking, only then when car gets warm after 30-40 minutes.

@@foxie777 Yes, I did. I replaced the fuel injectors, and that worked. I mainly used this video to do the job: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/ebx2qZiosKfZqqs.htmlsi=2YqWZt8Xgf1fsQPU. And also this one, for a close up view of the injectors: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/g96jdrlkzL6nYnU.htmlsi=B70JVKgIB54QxcgT I don't know if this will fix your problem, as my car didn't need to get warm first for it to start shaking. It would shake immediately when turning it on. Also the shake was very slight, in my case.

My code was the dreaded random misfire P0300. The reason I say dreaded is because the cause could be almost anywhere or anything, very difficult to correctly diagnose. You however have the P0303 which limits the problem to a specific cylinder, I believe cylinder number 3. It still could be caused by any number of reasons, but I would start out looking at the spark plug. If that looks ok, try swapping the number 3 coil with say the number 1 coil and see if the code changes. Beyond that there could be an issue with fuel, vacuum or compression. Good luck

That is interesting, Thanks for sharing.

Yes the 2 sensors are the same, The top sensor is much easier however the one behind the engine is difficult to get at. I have a video on how to change the crank sensor. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/o7GKlcScksDKknU.html I would try cleaning the throttle body before replacing the sensors. I do not have a video on that but there are some good ones on KZfaq. If you decide to replace the sensors. don't by the cheap ones on eBay as they are junk. keep in touch, thanks for watching.

Thanks for the question Brandon; I in my case I had pretty much had given up on trying to diagnose the problem myself. I had made the decision to take it to my local Nissan dealership. As do it yourself mechanics when you consider all the money we save over time it’s really not so bad when we must bite the bullet and take the car the dealership. As I stated above, I had made the decision and had actually made an appointment with my local Nissan dealership. However, before I could get the car to the dealer it broke down on the side of the road. After the car broke down it finally gave the code for the camshaft sensor. I replaced it on the side of the road in about 10 minutes as the car has been fine ever since. I believe in your case it will be the same situation, the computer will not give you the camshaft code until it fails completely. As far as the cost the OEM sensor at your local dealer will cost about $185. At a place like Napa or AutoZone it’ll be about $60.00. On eBay you can get one for about $11.00 but these parts a largely defective. The cheap sensors on eBay will fail in short order if they will even start the car at all. You could take it to the dealer and have them diagnosing it only. Then you could make the decision whether you want to replace the parts yourself or not. Most dealers have a diagnostic fee of around $100 give or take. Good luck let me know how you make out thanks for watching my channel.

@@richardspaulding5035 Hi Richard, thx for your quick response to my question. I did take it to the dealer for diagnostic but they said it might be the flywheel worn out evenly and out of balance and they need to open up the clutch to investigate the flywheel. It would cost about $3k and they didn't sound too confident and convincing to me. The clutch still bites good? I mean it sounds like a reap off to me.

@@brandontran5160 One easy test for that is if the engines is running smoothly in neutral and begins to shake as you engage the clutch than that tells you there’s a problem with the clutch or flywheel. Another thing to look at is the possibility of an oil leak, sometimes oil will contaminate the flywheel and cause a similar situation. When I do a clutch job, I will replace or resurface the flywheel anyway. Perhaps you can find a local repair shop that will do the job much cheaper. I think 3000 dollars is a lot for that. I suggest 1800 would be more in line.

@@richardspaulding5035 Thx Richard for the helpful tips. Lucky for me, my 370z doesn't have these symptoms so I think the clutch and flywheel are still ok. You're right on about the cost for clutch job because that's what it costs for my son's 370z clutch replacement. By the way, are the camshaft sensors from Napa and Auto Zone reliable or do I need to buy OEM sensors? Thx.

@@brandontran5160 I got one from Napa last year for my 2016 rouge, it is still running good. I replaced it because my wife was complained the car was hesitating at stop sighs.. I don't remember the code number but it indicated the cam sensor and the crank sensor were not in sink. The cam sensor was easier to replace than the crank sensor so I did that one first and it solved the problem. As I mentioned in the earlier reply the cheap eBay sensors are junk.

Your car is equipped with 3 valve timing solenoids. One of them could be sticking. this would cause your car to run very rough at times and other times seem to be perfectly fine. They have been known among other things to throw those codes. You could spend a lot of money chasing this issue down. It might be worth taking to a Nissan dealer and paying the diagnostic fee. It is usually less than $200. Then you have the option of having them fix it or thanking them and fixing it yourself. What ever they come up with I am sure you can find a video on how to replace the part . please let me know the outcome. Thanks for watching my channel.

As a fellow fix it myself guy we can save ourselves lots of money. However sometimes we just have to bite the bullet and take it to a dealer. As you may recall from the video I had resigned myself to do just that until I luckily fell into the root cause, That is if you want to call breaking down on the side of the road being lucky lol. I hope you find the problem.

Richard Spaulding you are right in my case was fuel filter I was thinking was going to be easy fix until I figured out it is located in gas tank haha :)

h3 are known for the valve seating issue

@@dcomputers would not a simple compression test be used to tell if there is a valve seating issue ?

It is difficult to diagnose a problem from afar. What you are doing is what we call chasing the problem. It seems very suspicious to me that with the 303 and 304 codes you are having an issue in 2 adjacent cylinders. Most dealers / repair shops have a nominal fee for diagnosing a problem. Take the car in, pay them to diagnose the issue usually around $100 dollars give or take. Then make the decision is it something you can fix yourself or have them do it. Let me know what they find.

@@richardspaulding5035 I was trying to do the basic quick fix 🤣. I didn't have the time to troubleshoot it my self. I will troubleshoot it this weekend to try and find the problem. I have never taken a car to a shop.

@@COALDEX Sorry it was not my intent to insult you. We all need a little help from time to time including myself

@@richardspaulding5035 no no I didn't take it as a insult. Sorry for my poor wording. I had just gotten up for work when I sent the reply. We are good.

@@COALDEX Thanks don't be a stranger. let me know what you find.

I am glad the video was helpful, Thanks for watching my channel.

@@richardspaulding5035 As opposed to other youtube videos, yours is very logical and methodical. Others can lead the viewer in the wrong direction. Thanks again & Happy Holidays!

@@craigslistseller9354 Thanks again

I did not test this sensor because I knew it was bad, The input should be at least 5 volts up to 12.6 volts depending on the make of your car . The output of the sensor should be about 1.5 volts. I hope this answers your question.

Thanks Captain; That is interesting .I had not thought of that. I will keep that in mind next time I get that code. Thanks for watching my channel.

@@richardspaulding5035 I figured out a p0300 when I replaced the head on my truck. I tried to start it up, but it didn't go right away, then I realized the spark plugs were outside all night, got damp,so I ran the battery down a bit before I realized about the plugs. I dried them off with a lighter, put oil in each cylinder, and it started right away. after letting it idle to fill the lifters I checked for codes and had the p0300. it had to be the low battery. after a 15 minute drive I cleared the code and it didn't return.

@@RangerCaptain11A Yes , it makes sense. Thanks once again. Don't be a stranger. I enjoy your detailed comments.

I get a lot of requests like this: My car is doing such and such, what do you think it is? It is difficult to diagnose a problem from afar. There could be any number of items that could cause what you described. I don't want to speculate and send you on a fishing expedition. I know most of you guys would rather give up your right arm before considering taking the car in to a dealer. Think of it this way as a do-it-yourself guy you save thousands of dollars over the years. Once in a great while (considering all the money you have saved) if you must bring it in to your local dealership it doesn't seem so bad. Wish I could be of more help.

@@richardspaulding5035 Thank you

@@richardspaulding5035 I have been reading the problems people have had with their vehicles. I would suggest that a good Scan tool would be of great assistance in helping to solve their problems. I bought an X Tool D8 Scan Tool that was on sale for 799 but was offered a coupon of around 120 to 150, so the cost dropped to 650 to 680. It is an amazing tool. It can do live data monitoring, including graphing the Live stream data, several data points at the same time. You could graph re and post catalytic converter to see the timing differences and if the waveforms are the same the catalytic converter is probably bad. The waveforms should not look the same. The tool has Actuator testing for a fuel pump, coils, fuel injectors, fuel pressure, etc. Special Functions to diagnose ABs, SRS, Body computer and other modules. Can also program Keys. There are many You Tube videos you can look at to see how it works.

It is difficult to diagnose a problem from afar. if your timing chain was bad it would most certainly affect your compression, as you say your compression is good. Furthermore if you are having an issue with the valve timing it would not be limited to just the number 3 cylinder. I would first try swapping the coil pack from the number 3 cylinder with one of the others. See if the miss fire now occurs in the other cylinder. let me know how you make out.

Just put a new coul pack on it.i checked also new pkug.just the number 1 last cyl tonthe driver side.car uses no oil no smoke just dead cyl.could it benthe cam sincer?

@@tj484 If it was the cam you would have low compression in just that cylinder I would think. Could it be possible you have a vacuum leak in the intake manifold gasket Near the number 3 cylinder port. If you have access to that area spray a little WD 40 while the engine is running. If there is a vacuum leak the WD 40 will temporally seal it and you should for a few seconds hear a noticeable improvement

@@richardspaulding5035 justed tryed the WD no change.but here's another thing when I'm starting it sounds funny .has a new starter and started the funny start up along with the miss.its a mistory .I'm a pretty good mechanic but this one has me stumped

@@tj484 Are you actually using a compression tester. You should let each cylinder cycle the same number of times (usually 4 times). The readings should be around 100 or better. The highest reading and the lowest reading should be within 10 or 15 of each other.

Charles; One thing that comes to mind is a plugged exhaust system possibly the catalytic convertor or the muffler. Have someone stand behind the car with it running. When you shut the car off he or she may hear a long hissing noise like air escaping. If so you may have too much back pressure in the exhaust system. let me know thanks for your question

@@richardspaulding5035 i will ty

'2006 I had a bad coil that caused misfire at 250k miles. Replaced coil and plugs. 30 miles later misfire on a different cylinder. Replaced all coils. 5k miles later got "random misfire code" and no power when above 40mph. Replaced VVT solenoid actuators. Runs better BUT STILL no power above 40mph. MUST be the catalytic converters?

@@zash008 mines doing the same thing

My rear cat was plugged on my frontier giving this code, take them off and see what comes out. 👍

Oh, so you're a rooky, I opened my first shop in 1977

@@richardspaulding5035 "Rookie" all that time figure you'd know better.

@@user-dz2pz3ol7p LOL Sorry I could not help myself.

I was the old man in my shop. The young people would always come to me. They avoided the manager like the plague.

Rozay: Try the crank sensor. it is inexpensive and easy to replace This part has been known to cause this issue. It is under the car so make sure you support the car safely. I would try this before I went out and spent several hundred dollars on the throttle body. Thanks for watching my channel.

P0300 is random code, could be one or more of many causes. In the car in the video, it was a faulty can sensor which is very common. However, that does not necessarily mean it is that.

Thanks for the question, Ty Albert; I apologize as I just reviewed the video and I never mentioned the actual code. It was P0340 for the cam sensor. Keep in mind in this case evidently the sensor was on its way out and was presenting an intermittent problem. The car would hesitate at stop signs and in stop and go traffic however it never gave the P0340 until it failed completely leaving me stranded. Thanks for watching my channel and again I apologize for not giving the code in the video.

Thanks for taking the time to place a comment and thanks for watching my channel.

I had this code as well as p200 code in my 2007 chevy express van 2500 I replaced sparkplug, ignition coils and some fuel injectors.i also service the fuel injection system.after all this I was still having the same problem.note, I also replaced the fuel pump on this. Close to the end of this ordeal, a mechanic that I was working with advised me to order theain controller or module. Main brain for this vehicle. This didn't solved the problem. At the end ,I took it to another mechanic, who started where we last stooped. He found the problem.probl was at wire harness coming from the car computer to the fuel injectors. Wires were had been loosened and were touching the steering column, causing a cylinder or two to overflow with fuel ...big problem finally solved.

Thanks for sharing that. I just had a car towed in, The guy replaced his starter battery and plugs. Car still would not stay running. I found it was a loose connection on his purge valve causing a vacuum leak.

Random misfire

@@damiencarter4836 Hi Damien, It is very possible your overheating problem is causing the random misfire. It should be easy enough to tell. Your car should run good when it is cold and start to act up when it gets hot. If your coolant looks dirty you may just need a flush?

@@richardspaulding5035 tried that stills misfires and even when it starts up its misfires rough idle and my cats get red asf

@@damiencarter4836 If it misfires as soon as you start it up then it is not a overheating issue, Has anyone tried a compression test? I find it interesting that it misfires when it is cold However it will eventually overheat. if I understand you correctly you have had this problem for some time now. It may be time to take it to you local dealership. You can save a lot of money by doing your own repairs but sometimes we need help from a professional. Your local Infinity dealer will have all the state of the art test equipment and should be able to pinpoint the problem. Hell, pay them the 125 bucks or what ever there diagnostic charge is then replace the part yourself if it is not too difficult. You have been suffering long enough. let us all know how you make out. Thanks

@@damiencarter4836 I would graph the O2 sensors, pre and post catalytic converter.