Common complaints: ► *Just use a maul.* Yes, I'm using an axe to split here. It is a heavy axe, so it works great for light splitting. I do not use MATT to halve full logs. ► *Mushrooming is dangerous!* That abuse came from the axe's last owner. The mushroomed steel poses no threat, because I don't hit this axe with a sledge. ► *Learn how to split/aim.* I struck at the back of the log on purpose, for demonstration. As you could then see, it can take a hit. I normally aim to knock a slice from off the side, and I never aim at a piece that's in the back.

"You don't really want to see more epoxy footage, do you?" *Peter Brown sheepishly raises his hand...*

I used to watch your videos before I had any inclination for DIY or craft, just because they were interesting and relaxing videos to watch. Now that i've developed an interest and built up a collection of tools, and projects to put them to use I have been rewatching these and learning so many valuable tips. Just wanted to say thanks, DIY dad.

I used an aramid fabric with epoxy to make a brace for my boy's axe. Layered aluminum foil over it as well to stop the fibers from degrading in sunlight, but mostly I think it just looks cool. It's much thinner than rope, which I like for handling, and thus far it's survived some zealous incompetence. It definitely prevents the neck from splintering, which is an improvement.

This morning I was going to add similar grips/guards onto the shaft and handle of a old shovel I'm restoring, but decided to be unproductive and watch some videos after I realized I only had short pieces of rope. (I didn't want to struggle/have weak joins that would fray over time or make it difficult to wrap in the first place; just one of those lazier mornings, what can I say). Well, leave it to Pocket to call me out on my procrastination/excuses! Call it serendipity or whatever you like that you happened to post this when you did, I'm just very appreciative of the time, energy, and effort you put into your videos- and currently very glad you encouraged me to suck it up and get started. So many things in life get delayed or avoided because we don't feel like we have the "perfect" conditions, materials or circumstances. You are always reminding me that with some creative/divergent thinking, motivation, and acceptance of the occasional failure, there is very little that is impossible (and very few excuses for not doing what needs to get done!). Thanks again; when I'm able to use my shovel before the snow starts falling it will be partly due to your inspiration and encouragement.

I almost missed the picture you spliced in just after you peeled the epoxy off your brush.

"If it's not abrasion resistant, then it's not going to resist abrasion" -pocket83, 2018

I can't believe I watched 20 minutes of applying epoxy on an ax... and I ENJOYED it! Well done! -- Old Matt

One of your many great strengths are those really good quality closeups. Nice video.

The old time choppers here in Nova Scotia used 19 gauge galvanized wire to wrap a guard. Take about 20 feet and tie one end to the shed. Walk back and tack the other end to the axe handle right behind the eye. Pull tight and walk to the shed with good tension on the wire. Tap each row next to the other with an axe file. Get to the shed, unhook wire - tap a tack into the axe handle and snug wire around - tap tack into handle - done. Lasts for many years and really saves your handle from overstrikes.

I really new to any woodworking, and only just bought my first hatchet since I was a Boy Scout about 45 years ago. I found a lot of this video very helpful both in its content and the comments. Thank you.

This video inspired me to do the same thing with suede lace...did 2 layers, works super well....super strong. On my next, I'll go one layer lace, one layer solid heavy leather, which won't cut. The suede cuts, but doesn't break the axe.

This is like an ASMR special. I love the macro shots too.

I did this to two axes in 1980 that are still good. I used a much smaller braid and made a couple or three wraps. Use the bottom of a beer can for mixing and you'll save a buttload of epoxy. i coated the braid on the outside making it durable as hell. The smaller braid covered in expoxy leaves a smooth, slick finish.YMMV

I am using a piece of cord on my axe for 6+ years, and it works like a charm. I didn't use any kind of epoxy and I think that it is better, because the rope remains elastic and reduces the impact in case of a slip. Also I just knotted it on the handle with a knot we call "takling" in german.

My solution is welded metal handles. I've made a 18" handle for a hatchet from a 1/8"x1-1/2" flat bar and it turned out pretty good and balanced. I have a fireman's axe head I made a 27" handle for from 3/16"x1-1/2" flat bar with oak grips. It's not designed for chopping firewood but I like it. I'm working on a double bit axe right now that I plan on cutting wood with.

Just a suggestion: When the back of an axe head starts mushrooming on the sides, you should grind the mushrooming off, because if you don’t it could break off and end up lodged in your head, or anyone (or any animals) near you. Along with this, I strongly recommend adding a slight chamfer (knocking the corners off) so the inevitable mushrooming can be reduced and slowed to ab absolute minimum. Just be careful not to hit the corners of the chamfers because they could also break off and fly at things or people, that is, if the axe is hardened. Just wanted to give my two cents. A little safety goes a long way! :D

Overdrive sucks when cutting wood. You've inspired me to do a bit of tlc on my axe, thanks!

Another great video pocket! I don’t know if anyone else noticed this, but one of the older copper wire epoxy stirrers that you used had a patina near the top, but the lower end that actually mixes the epoxy has been preserved by the residue left behind. Anyway, I thought it was interesting.

There is a knot called a frap that would work well for this. You make a loop on the surface and then wrap the cord around it. When you get to the end you tuck it into the loop and pull it under the wrapping and trim the other end. It leaves no exposed end to break off. I used it on a sword handle and it worked really well.

I wanted to cry when I saw the mushrooming on that axe

Regarding epoxy tips and tricks: When trying to coat things with epoxy (like the top coat you applied), I usually add some acetone to the epoxy to make it more spreadable and to help it wick in. For mixing, I just use an old glue-bound catalog. Rip one cover off, mix epoxy on the exposed page, when done, rip off the page and you're ready to go. It's free, it gives more room to work with than tape, and you can pick it up and move it if you need to reposition your work.. If I need a brush or spatula, I just use a putty knife or a hoghair flux brush. Clean up is quick and effortless. I have a jar of lacquer thinner that I use for cleaning small things. All it takes is a couple dunks and wipes with a paper towel.

you can try using a heat shrink that has a glue for water proofing inside it, put it on the axe and heat it up to shrink it on .the glue inside melts and then sets again when it cools down .two layers of this will last quite some time and when needed to be replaced just heat it up and cut it off while soft and then replace.

I have used the exact process, only using thread, to fix my broken glasses, and used Super Glue. The finished product was stronger then the original joint, and once the thread was saturated in glue, it just looked like a piece of black plastic. I will use this technique often. Thanks.

Nice footage. Cool honest learning process, thank you.

To everyone thinking a maul is better. Some pepole like a maul and some like an axe, if the axe has the right profile (thickness at the cheeks) it will split like crazy. Or if the axe has a heavier weight it will also split well.

Depending on how you value your own time, it would probably be easier / cheaper for most people to simply purchase a Fiskars splitting axe. But this is a cool idea, and I did enjoy the video.

I loved the video and the axe handle is beautiful great work !

Pretty cool!! Love the look of "Matt", nice tool!!

And the axe restoration saga continues Also those bloopers were spot on Lettuce Mayo And Onions

Nice. I use the same method with thread and superglue to repair smaller items, from headphone jacks to arms on eyeglasses. Thanks for sharing.

When it comes to the splitting logs like this - never try to acommplish in a first hit. Choose the path betveen branches, preferably butt log upward, make a first hit aiming to a corner towards from you. When the wood fiber cracks a little, proceed with a second hit on side closer to you from the log center. Thats how you never hit the handle and save energy. Nice axe and good luck ;]

I had to laugh. As if the early settlers had access to two part epoxy. Nice video.

There is no project where there is no approach with bike tubes or pvc pipe xD Watching your videos always helps me to think out of the box, thanks

It’s been 4 years, update? Looks amazing

love the added frame thanks

I weld a steel wedge on the underside. It saves the handle and it also splits the wood that wrecks your handle.

As far as expoying rope, I have seen similar applications done using a funnel. Feed the rope in the funnel first, then fill the funnel with glue and pull the rope through the other side. EDIT: Is that an actual bionicle

I find that it is easier to push the epoxy out when it is warm. So I will warm it with just body heat in my hands. Just a thought. Love your work!

wow finally a new vid of Pocket. so i can sleep ( i been binge watching you to help me sleep)

I enjoy watching you apply the epoxy. It's kinda relaxing.

You can tell that Matt has suffered a lot of abuse in his life. I'm glad he's got you now to treat him right.

I did similar with much smaller nylon line and used a couple wraps with epoxy between the layers and a layer of epoxy on the outside. I'm still using both axes today. The very thin outside layer soaked into the twins leaving it slick and strong.

You keep that kinda thing up and you'll start attracting the bionicle crowd lol

Nicely done and it sucks being so old and remembering when epoxy was almost impossible to purchase commercially . I sometimes use epoxy and fine sawdust for a wood filler . Thanks for your video and ATB .

I find tarred twine works very well for this, no glue or epoxy needed it binds super tight and the tar causes it to grip and not come loose, I then sometimes will use leather over top for appearance but not always.

Great idea. Thnx for the video

Pocket83 is the only guy that can make a video about wrapping rope around an axe entertaining.

Well done!

I find the safety comment conundrum fascinating. As a viewer I have found them useful for tools I don't have experience with, but I can see where having the same stupid comment over and over every time you use a tool in a video, cascading down through the years as the video remains on youtube... well, that would get annoying. And nothing is ever just dangerous, it's always extremely dangerous. Of course, it could always be an opportunity. Write a mini booklet of safety advice for each tool you use, only $10 for the e-book version! "This video sponsored by the Pocket83 safety booklet! Buy now before supplies of this e-book run out!"

In my former line of work we worked with epoxy a lot. We used cleaning vinegar to clean off residual epoxy. I thought it was neat way of getting “unsticky”

Awesome video keep them coming

We used baling wire when we were young. Start with the end over the head of the axe handle. Go down about 4 inches below where the axe head will sit. Wrap up tightly to below where the head will seat and end up with the wire end running up under the axe head. Reattach the axe head, wedge it and the wire will be a strong and long lasting repair.

Rawhide could be interesting. Applied wet it will shrink/constrict when drying, if I remember correctly. I wonder what the added compression will do for handle stability?

Always excited when I see a new video upload👍😁

I found jute twine follow by clear guerrilla glue then sanded with a 4 or 600 grit sandpaper makes for a perfect grip. 👍🏼

What i normally do for my axes, is i first wrap with thin steel string (1mm), not the braided kind, but the solid ones.. after i've wrapped it all in a thin one, i then do another wrap in one thicker steel string like (2mm-3mm) lasts for ever :)

Those close up shots at around 13:30 were very well done

Subbed, due to how you dealt with the knobbers in the comments section.

That's exactly how i made my guard but without the epoxy.Took some fabric tape and put it around beneath the axe head,then I wrapped it in some thin climbing rope.Thing is as sturdy as heck

tuck the end under the last loop, then secure it with epoxy to hardness...thanks for the demo

Awesome video... I think covering the rope with something like shoe goo might be better though. It's basically liquid rubber, which seems like it would take multiple impacts better since it's flexible.

You could use a length of STEAM PIPE that is used between train cars. This stuff is really tough and slips over the handle and is sometimes the right size to make it tight... Works for me...

great video!

I LIKE it works 4 me. I LOVE EPOXY. Got alot of old slege hammers for work. Gonna go same route just make SURE I got enough rope. THANKS

For real though Matt looks super handsome! I would just worry that the apoxy will crack since it's relatively brittle. I'm loving all these axe videos! I really hope we get an update.

As someone who works extensively with epoxy, when using the amount your using, best to mix it on a card with lollipop stick, when finnished sump it all in the bin

I've done wraps like that. I usually secure the ends by drilling a hole perpendicular through the handle and running the end of the rope through the hole. I use a small wooden pin or wedge to lock the rope or cord in place. In the centerline, it doesn't affect the strength of the handle to any noticeable degree. For thinner cord, it's possible to tuck the ends under the wraps instead. Never used epoxy though. Mostly used paint or varnish to soak the rope/cord and adhere it to the handle. For an axe that'll see a lot of log-splitting, I prefer to make a metal guard.I've no idea about how much better it'd be according to some factual scale, but since you don't have to wait for it to set, a metal guard is probably overall faster to make. And less bulky, if that's important to you.

For my hammer I use rope too but no epoxy. Only because I had rope and nothing better to do at the time. Nice touch with epoxy. I went to school for carpentry and sometimes people borrow your hammer and they can’t aim. The string helped, but a nail would just go in between the strands. Expoxy would of been perfect

Nice and relaxing video to watch late night before sleep👍

I use construction adhesive/liquid nails and poly baling twine. Liquid nails is good as its a rubber bassed compound and has a bit of give in itBelieve epoxy will be to brittle and chip

Hello, thank you for sharing a novel way to extend the longevity of the axe handle! Appreciated. Could you let me know if the guard still does its job propertly after 3 years? Thanks!

You fixed it for 3 dollars..ready to work next day = win ! Thank you for showing us some great tips and tricks.

My unsolicited advice is to end it with a clove hitch. When you cover or soak it in epoxy, it essentially becomes a micarta covering.

Love the macro epoxy shots! Great video.

I wonder if pocket's made any improvements to his iso-path game yet.

Wow. Great tip on the silicone.

I worked in the oil field and i used a rope as well on my sledgehammer to help with the impact and it helps

I have used cotton fabric and epoxy to do the same thiing before, and it is amazingly strong. Just takes longer, as you do one layer at a time and repeat for the number of layers you need. The only thing I worry about using paracord and 5 miinute epoxy is if 5 minutes is enough for the epoxy to fully penetrate the paracord.

The great axe saga continues!

After putting on the epoxy you should wrap it with rubber tube then leather so it will help absorb the blows just seeing that first blow shows me that it might not last long unless you wrap it again ..just giving my advice ..nice video..

"Five minute epoxy".... that's just the name of it. Like the " 24 hour dry cleaners" I took my jacket to. Nice job. I'll have to give it a try.

Enjoyed it as always. You really seem to be doing well with the "axe demographic" as you say.

Axe:How often do you want to say epoxy ? Him: *Yes*

As an iron worker, we used tie wire. The metal wire used to tie rebar. Then we would wrap that with black athletic tape. I see your epoxy, cracking and breaking with a solid hit

Got some mushrooming to deal with there buddy, but nice job on the axe bandage! :P

I hear you can grind off that mushrooming and use it to make stew.

Great idea! it should stays up very good

What about rubber from tyres? Those suckers can't really be disposed of in a proper way, so I try to make any excuse to harvest the material. What with all the stones and potholes, they are made to take a beating.

I love using epoxy and didnt know that alcohol trick thank you very much i always get the stuff on my fingers

I had a leather expert wrap mine with laces on the back. Simple, strong, and looks good. The leather can take a strike better than the epoxy.

That epoxy ties in with the fibers of the twine and it'll take tons abuse. I've have good results with twine and latex chalk too. Good video. Thumbs up.

if you fray the end's then burn said ends and while there melted put them together as one rope they actually look like one rope and they are really pretty strong .i mean put them together melted point to melted point and let cool works great

Leather and lace works much better than epoxy for this and can be replaced IF you ever wear the leather down. That epoxy will chip and chunk out in no time if you split alot. Also, to replace that epoxied rope will require an angle grinder. The leather has the added bonus of looking awesome.

Just a little tip to anyone doing this, if you wrap some clear packaging tape around the epoxy while it’s a bit less runny it will keep it smooth so you don’t have to sand it down as much or even at all. Usually the cheaper stuff works better because it’s less sticky and easier to take off when the epoxy dries.

Interesting video. When I mix up bondo or epoxy, I use cut up pieces of gift cards, they work really good to mix or apply the epoxy.

You should cut off the ends of a soda bottle and shrink it onto the rope using a heat gun works real well 👍🏼

I would recommend a Fisker splitting mall works real good has a lifetime guarantee and is pretty much impossible to break

Have you tried fiberglass?

Oooo man; that epoxy on the hands does a real number on the ole gooble gobbler on a cold, lonely night.