Good catch! Thanks... Not sure why I thought it was 22... even watching the video I can see that it's 2.2. :D

My capacitor reads 50v 😵‍💫 is it supposed to be 5 ? Or does that mean 5 somehow?

@@RicardoTrevinoLohman you can go over on voltage. Your only issue is the physical size of the cap which will be bigger (and may not fit well in the shell) if you get too high a voltage model.

I'm having the same issue and cannot find anything on how to repair it

I'd suggest checking that the black plastic bar is freely moving up and down (you may have to adjust the spring's tension).

You'd need to de-solder the old one (a solder sucker will help) and then solder the new one in place. It's not a super hard thing to do, but take your time.

@@preppietechie Thanks for responding. This video actually turned me on to circuitry over the past week or so. Researched a bunch on the various components and been learning a ton. Coming back to this video, it now makes a lot of sense haha. Unfortunately, even after I soldered on a new one, seems the screen is busted and possibly the chip running it so kind of a lost cause I think at this point. But it's turned into a cool hobby and learning experience. Thanks for the spark of inspiration.

@@curtiss5781 That's so awesome to hear! Really made my day! If you want another fun project, go pick up an old gameboy and look at the Q5 screens you can install. It's a fun build and you end up with a really great retro/nostalgic thing to play around with.

If half the screen isn't working, it's probably a bad solder connection. You can try searching for videos on fixing gameboy black lines on the screen... it may be a similar fix for this. The speaker is possibly a similar thing... try re-flowing the solder connections for the speaker. If those work, then I'd consider swapping the capacitor while you have it open, because you know it's going to get old eventually and need replaced.

@@preppietechie I actually got the speaker working! Now I have to look up fixing the screen! Appreciate the help!

Unfortunately I don’t know. Once the screen starts delaminating, there isn’t much that can be done as far as I know.

I hear ya. I'd do a tear-down video of mine, but honestly I'm not too keen on putting that spring mechanism back together. It's a bit of a pain. I'll offer this: you'll see two black plastic bits that have half a dozen or so small holes in a row. One gets screwed down, and the other pivots up and down on a small plastic hinge with each step you take. The spring goes between those two. You'll need to pick a pair of holes, finish assembling the unit, then test it to see if it properly counts your steps. If it seems too sensitive, move the spring one hole closer on one of the two black plastic bits (doesn't matter which one) so that you're adding tension to the spring. If it seems not sensitive enough, then move it one hole further so that you're removing tension. Then retest. Keep testing until the unit reliably counts your steps. It's really hard to explain via text. Heck, it's really hard to explain even via video. Hope this helps a little! Good luck!

Also a helpful disassembly guide here: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/h9hjiKua2tHboX0.html&ab_channel=AlixThompson

If you have some soldering skill and there lcd and board aren’t damaged, you could try to re-solder it in place, but those are some tiny pads, and it might be tricky.

Hey, so fun fact! You can just gently pop the LCD off. It's not glued or soldered or anything. It's basically rubber.

You could try re soldering the ribbon cable between the screen and the main board. Just use a low heat and take your time. (This is assuming that you’ve visually inspected it for any years).

I was able to desolder the C8 capacitor without removing the LCD. If I recall correctly, I just used a solder wick and took my time.

​@@preppietechiecould you elaborate on this a bit? It seems like the solder is under the LCD, so how can you get it out? And how can you solder the new cap without being able to solder under it?

Does it make any sound when you try to turn it on? Also, if you’re feeling adventurous, try opening it up and seeing it the insides look like they have any damage. There is a small wire spring that you’ll have to be careful about repositioning when you go to reassemble, so take your time and maybe take pictures as you disassemble it so you can remember where all the parts go.

If you've got dead pixels, then you'll likely need a new LCD panel. This is only useful if the screen starts fading (but you know the battery is full).

Is it even possible to find a Screen for Replacement? Mine has stripes all over after i went all the Day today with it and it got sweaty... I would be glad if there is any Solution for it :)

That's too bad. I don't know off the top of my head what would cause that, but I'd suggest opening the unit up and seeing if there is any obvious damage (loose wires, etc). Good luck!

@@preppietechie awww it’s okay! I think that’s a great idea I’ll try that ! Thanks!!! 😆

I never found the individual capacitor, I just happened to have a matching one from this kit: www.amazon.com/dp/B07QK7PYDP/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_td5GkAI3GKjyP I haven’t looked, but I’d imagine a place like www.mouser.com would have it as well. Best of luck!

@@preppietechie in the video you said 5 volt but the description says 5.5 volt. Can you clarify which one it is?

@@pixelprime5908 It's neither; it's 50v. You can see it in the video. I feel bad for anyone who ordered caps without checking for themselves.

The spring inside may be either too tight or too loose. Carefully open it up and take a look at the little back plastic arm and see if the metal wire spring needs adjusting. You want it to be JUST resistant enough to keep the arm up until the force of your step pulls the arm down (after which the spring pushes it back up to prep for the next step).

I’ve tried almost every combination for the spring and nothing changes. The step counter remains zero, but the pikachu animation changes with each “step”.

@@ianbecker6039 Hrm... that's beyond me.

I'd actually encourage you to try replacing this capacitor. If the capacitor is completely dead, you wouldn't see the screen. Obviously, it could be a lot of other things too, but this is a cheap and easy fix to try, and if it's something else, you're not out much.

I didn’t need to remove the board on mine. I’m not sure if removing the LCD without desoldering it would damage the board or the display. I don’t recall needing to remove any nuts, either. Just a few screws.

I know this is a year old, but if you or anyone else is still wondering...if you have the front shell flipped upside down (display facing table), it goes on the left in a little nut shaped hole a little further down than that other weird plastic piece (directly to left of display). It holds the screw for the battery cover in.

@@gooseii Thank you!

@@gooseii i love you, thanks!!!!

Sorry, no I don't do repairs for other people (especially if it has sentimental value). I'd encourage you to give it a shot yourself (soldering is a great skill to have, and this a really easy project) or you could take it to an electronics repair place in your area.

@@preppietechie i ordered the capacitor wish me luck

@@preppietechie my boyfried tried everything and it didn't work :(

​@@miteruno That sucks. Make sure the capacitor is a) the right size and b) is installed in the right orientation (the longer lead is positive, which is marked on the board). If that's all in order, it sounds like there's something else wrong with your board.

What symptom were you having before you replaced the capacitor?

i think the screen is dry, its work but the screen dont.

@@Doolman_X Interesting. That's how mine started looking. You could hear the beeps when you turned it on, but the screen was very faint (and eventually completely blank). I swapped out the capacitor at C8 shown in the video, and now it's fine. You may be right, though, there could be something else going on with your LCD.