I know im asking randomly but does anybody know a method to get back into an instagram account?? I was dumb forgot the account password. I love any tips you can give me!

@Deangelo Arian Instablaster :)

@Kylo Fabian i really appreciate your reply. I found the site through google and Im waiting for the hacking stuff atm. Takes quite some time so I will reply here later when my account password hopefully is recovered.

@Kylo Fabian It did the trick and I actually got access to my account again. Im so happy! Thanks so much, you really help me out :D

@Deangelo Arian glad I could help =)

Yep. Heard of lots of guys doing this. I never knew the size of rod to buy, but this would be a great alternative for anyone looking for a puller!

you are welcome! thanks for watching!

Tommy Schulte yes you can heat it just be careful of your buttons in the spider. Bigger torch would be better. Always try to heat the spider not the shaft and try break it free before the shaft absorbs the heat from the spider.

A couple things can cause that- First I'd check the primary clutch, make sure it's moving in and out freely without binding. Use compressed air to blow the dust out around the buttons. Also pay special attention to the shaft that the sheaves and outer cover ride up and down on. It should be smooth, not rough. But the real culprit I feel in this situation could be something to do with your secondary clutch. It almost sounds like the clutch is partially open when it should be clamped completely shut on the belt at idle. It could be when the last belt failed, some of the cords of the belt could have gotten wedged between the clutch sheaves, partially holding it open. Also from time to time I've seen the secondary clutch rollers get flat spots on them, which won't allow it to open and close properly. I would remove it, and inspect. Before you take it off, when you look at it, the belt should be riding way up on the outside of the sheaves. Maybe even about 1/3 of the belt should be riding above them.... if it's riding anywhere down between the sheaves then your secondary's stuck.

I spray out the bearing with some brake cleaner followed by some compressed air. Then use a light amount of grease and smear it into the bearings with your finger. WIpe away any excess so that when you slip it back on you don't have grease everywhere. Remember, when the clutch is back in operation any grease that the bearing can't hold will be flung out onto the sheaves and belt, and you don't want that. Sometimes less is more.!

Splurge for the better kit, the ebay buttons/rollers weren't that good. I like the epi stuff

sometimes the factory clutches are marked. There's an "X" cast into one of the legs of the spider that is many times lined up with a black sharpie mark on the outer sheave when I take them apart. Not sure if yours will have it or not. If not, just put it together, more than likely it will be fine. if you have a horrible vibration, then I'd take it back apart and move the spider to another notch on the sheave. I'm betting you'll have no issues at all.

I always use a center punch when removing parts that need to be aligned then the mark never goes away its permanent

I could try to do that I'm away from home right now but possibly tonight I could take some pictures of it. Would it be easier if I just posted them up on side-by-side nation.com? Or would you like me to try to email them to you directly?

joseph guerra I've never changed them but I've cleaned them on all the Rangers we have simply taken out the three screws that hold the back together and washing out with brake cleaner will take care of most of the rough running / elevated idle issues

I have taken them apart to clean them. Never needed to change one even with 4 800 rangers with over 22K miles each. Just take the screws out of the IAC and clean out the body with brake cleaner and re-assemble. will take care of every problem I've seen with it unless you have wiring harness problems. Take a look!

You have to remove the top cover, then buy or build a tool to loosen the spider that holds the buttons. Once threaded off you can remove the one way bearing

DieselFume1 thanks but the problem is the shaft unscrewed from the bottom. My email is dgagne64@gmail.com if you can email me I can send a video thanks

The bottom I’m talking about it the base of the clutch ware you have the clamps , my shaft unscrewed from that instead of the spider unscrewing . Thanks hope that helps explain my problem. Dave

Never seen or heard of the threaded shaft coming out of the base of the clutch, that is not common and shouldn't happen. You probably need a new clutch

DieselFume1 that’s what I’m thinking , I really appreciate your time and you make some great videos . It seems harder and harder theses days to find people just making videos to help others after google took over tube !

Not much of an expert on sleds, but you could be dealing with a spring or weight issue on the clutch, or sounds like your engine could be jetted to Rich, or your temperature is too warm outside causing the engine to richen up. What RPM does your clutch engage? I think on those 700xc's it should be up around 4,500 or so

Thank you DieselFume1

Hi GG Is it possible that the one way bearing was put back in upside down during all the work you did on it ?

He said 500 hours

Not good. Buy polaris or epi parts

@@OldGlory1776 ok thanks, i have a rzr 800 i replaced drive belt i noticed the weights sre pretty wobblely im sure it needs new clutch or a rebuild kit

Did you ever fit this clutch to a 1 inch shaft got a ranger 500 blown up want slap in a v twin

@@drochasal1341 nope , 🤣 my ass has been working .. my bike has been on the back burner for like 2 years straight right now. But all you have to do is mill it to 1” and file a slot for the keyway

@@paulskartslifan4206 i know the feeling so if you have a 1 inch shaft with keyway no need to mill correct?

@@drochasal1341 the clutch has a taper , if you have a1” straight you’ll need to taper the crank or remove the taper from the clutch

I have not had a snowmobile clutch apart yet but many of the folks I talked to said the clutches are near identical to ones used in Rangers. So I would think much of this would apply to your snowmobile. Biggest difference I could see is there is no issues from dirt getting into bushings or behind the buttons on a snowmobile clutch. So they should have a much longer life span

@@OldGlory1776 👍

are you talking about the off brand buttons?

DieselFume1 yessir

I used those cheap knockoff buttons on two clutches, and I wasn't too impressed with the life out of them. I inspected the clutches 200 hours after I rebuilt them to find the buttons had worn badly and some were even starting to chunk out from heat/stress. I would never buy them again, they came from ebay. I have found some buttons through EPI that look and perform just like the ones from Polaris. I have had really good luck with them so far. Just go to their web site, they have different options for kits available. I think you can buy just buttons alone, or buttons with rollers, maybe even weights. If you haven't been into it in a few hundred hours or 5000 miles, I think I'd buy buttons, rollers and weight pins and plan on needing them. Usually if the weight pins are worn the weight holes are egg shaped as well. If they are, better replace them too.

Is it possible to remove the spider with the clutch on the machine still. Ie it would save me having to build that sheave clamp for the vice at the start of the video.

@@rdyjur Sorry I missed this comment till now. I won't attempt to remove the spider on the machine. It takes around 200 ft/lbs to break that loose, and you would have a VERY difficult time holding the base of the clutch to break it loose. If you don't have the tools available to you, or the means to build them, you could buy or borrow the clutch removal rod, and then have a polaris dealer put the new parts in the clutch for you. you would have to pay them very little labor to do that.

It depends. If the button pockets are worn out on the clutch or it has other issues, it's cheaper to buy a new clutch . But at 3500 miles I would say it's highly unlikely your clutch is beyond rebuilding. I have had pretty good luck withChinese knock off clutches that you can find on eBay sold by Harvey's ATV parts. For about half of what Polaris wants.

@@OldGlory1776 Thanks for the response. At what mileage should u expect to rebuild or should rebuild one of these before you are forced to buy entire new set up?